2001 Dodge Ram 1500 Conversion Van...Conversion?

Ian · Sep 26, 2012

Hey everybody, Found this site about a month ago and its exactly what I've been looking for.  I'm a seasonal worker, moving around a bunch so van living is the answer.  I was stressed about the vehicle purchase for a while, but found a Dodge Conversion Van that's going to have to do the job for now.  Just wanted to post some pics of the original vehicle and start to list some of the ideas I got.  Planning on pulling out bed and captain chairs. Going to put swivel mounts on the driver side and passenger side.  If I can't find some used probably will go with http://www.discountvantruck.com/rvvanseatbases/rvvanDodgeseatbases.htm.  Undecided on the bed.  Was thinking about the back but now i'm considering behind the driver seat due to the fact I'm 6'3". Will need to design something that can expand to a queen if I do go with behind the driver seat.   Other ideas include 2 6V golf cart batteries using a continuous duty solenoid with an inverter.  Still figuring out what capacity inverter I need. 2 burner coleman and heater. Sink with hot water (for possible shower out the back). Need a fridge of some sort and storage space along the driver side above the bed and appliances.   Hope to move quickly on the conversion.  Would love to hear suggestions so I don't have to repeat mistakes.   Thanks, Ian

stude53 · Sep 26, 2012

Welcome again, Ian! Check out Roberts van for some ideas. <a href="http://cheaprvliving.com/Roberts_Van.html">http://cheaprvliving.com/Roberts_Van.html</a> Bob

Ian · Sep 27, 2012

Thanks Bob, I remembered seeing this conversion but couldn't find it again, so I appreciate the link.   For those interested in other sites that have good ideas, I was given this one by a French buddy when I was in Switzerland a couple weeks ago.  Google translate works well.  Unfortunately they have so many "sprinter-like" cars over there that I don't see many cargo van conversions, but there are some cool ideas.  I'm guessing some, like me, will be tempted to buy a sprinter, but will come to the realization that's its outside the budget.  http://www.trafic-amenage.com/forum/ Ian

PYSCHOWard · Sep 27, 2012

Nice van Ian, space is limited so you're wise to take your time, so as not to make mistakes. I have my bed across the back with 2 GC batts under it for now. I don't charge them much yet so gases are not an issue yet. I started with Tinted windows and then blocked off the 2 back Bay windows with 2" styro and added tint to the rest. My bed across the back i think is 54x74 or somewhere close, i am 5'10" i sleep curled up or diagonally and am very comfortable. My wife has yet to camp with me so, i don't know about 2 people in it.

akrvbob · Sep 27, 2012

Great looking van, you are going to love your new life!! At 6'3'' you almost have to go along the side. Across the back you would need to make it wide enough to sleep at a diagonal and that would be at least 54 inches but more likely even more. If it were me I would do it like I did to Katies Astro, but of course i would fit it to the size of the van (longer and taller). See pictures here: http://cheaprvliving.com/Katies_Astro.html You have the heighth to make a shelf above the bed. On the wall across from the bed I would put in more shelves and  and a counter top like Roberts van (link in earlier post). The Mr. Buddy heater works great for heat. I have a Dometic 25 quart 12 volt compressor fridge that draws very little power and works extremely well. I've had it for 3 years and still love it. Bob

Ian · Sep 28, 2012

Thanks again for all the comments.  I've been researching/planning my electrical system and I've come up with the following options.  I would like to move toward solar at some point - does one of the battery options make more sense.  Also does the inverter selection line up with the power I'll be using? I'm trying to stay away from a microwave and stick with a toaster oven - are they equally as "picky" about the power they get? Here's some of my notes: <!--[if gte mso 9]><xml> <w:WordDocument> <w:Zoom>0</w:Zoom> <w:TrackMoves>false</w:TrackMoves> <w:TrackFormatting/> <w

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ontVertAlignInTxbx/> </w:Compatibility> </w:WordDocument></xml><![endif]-->  Electricity: -       Total Wattage ~2500W  @ 120V (not continuous)o   Macbook 150Wo   Desktop 500Wo   Toaster oven 1300Wo   Blender 550W Batteries:Option 1: 6V (2 in series)2 <a href="http://www.lowes.com/ProductDisplay...p;cmRelshp=req&rel=nofollow&cId=PDIO1">Lowes-6V AGM</a>, $273 ($546 total), 220 amp/hr, 69lbs (138lbs total)Option 2: 6V (2 in series)2 <a href="http://www.batterystuff.com/batteries/t-105-6-volt-trojan-golf-cart-batteries.html">BatteryStuff.com-Trojan T-105</a>, $139 ($278 + shipping total), 225amp/hr, 62 lbs (124lbs total)Option 3: 12V (1)1 <a href="http://www.batterystuff.com/batteries/upc-telecom/UB4Dagm-45965.html">Batterystuff.com-UniversalPowerGroup12V</a>, $449+shipping, 200amp/hr, 132lbsOption 4: 12V (2 in parallel)2 <a href="http://www.lowes.com/ProductDisplay...p;cmRelshp=req&rel=nofollow&cId=PDIO1">Lowes-12V=AGM_92AH</a>, $238 ($476 total), 184 amp/hr, 64lbs (128lbs total) Continuous Duty Solenoid:Option 1: 150 amp1 <a href="http://www.ebay.com/itm/Solenoid-Re...cessories&hash=item4abc9a44d8&vxp=mtr">150A continuous duty solenoid</a>, $16, 150A Cont, 300A Surge (Dodge Ram 1500 alternator puts out 117amps.)with: Emergency switch to start vehicle. See diagram: <a href="http://chrisb.users.superford.org/Bronco/Projects/Dual_Batteries/Dual_Batteries.html">Emergency Jump Start Switch diagram</a> Inverter: Option 1: 1000 W/2000 W surge1 <a href="http://www.shopepal.com/p-9831-xant...&utm_medium=compshop&utm_campaign=cse">Xantrex 1000W Inverter</a>, $263, 2000 Watt Surge.  Thanks again for any suggestions/comments.

Ian · Sep 28, 2012

Also, i've started deconstruction on the van. I've noticed there is NO insulation on these vans (see photos - the little bit of yellow fiberglass insulation is it!). Kind of a bummer as I went with conversion van to avoid some of the insulation requirements, but at least I got a high top out of it.   As i'm planning on being in Moab and Salt Lake City for some of the winter, I need to beef up the insulation a bit. I'm planning on using 3/16" bubble cushion between the van body and the foam and using polystyrene foam with a reflective side toward the van body. The bubble cushion should act as a vapor barrier and provided the necessary air gap between the foam and the van body. I will need to secure a few studs and the cover everything with painted or stained luan board. I plan on removing the carpet and putting vinyl down. I have a question a couple questions: I thought I researched that there can be some accelerated corrosion or some other electric issue if the foil is touching an electrified surface (the van body).  Did I make that up or is there something I should be watching out for?  Without drilling holes through my fiberglass high top, how do I secure the insulation and lauan to the roof?  For the floor, would you recommend insulating underneath it or just putting lauan or plywood down and then placing a floating floor on top (vinyl most likely).   Thanks, Ian

wrcsixeight · Sep 28, 2012

A couple notes.  While AGM batteries are the safest batteries to install inside the cabin, they should still, in theory, be vented to the exterior. Trojan t 105's are flooded and will off gas a great deal at he 85% + charged range. and absolutely should be vented to the exterior. The toaster oven used in the morning at 1300 watts is going to trip the low voltage inverter alarm 8 times out of ten.  You Will have to run the engine to mitigate this severe draw on the batteries.  Some Microwaves can be very picky about the sine wave they are provided.  Toasters do not care unless they have electronic controls, and might even run hotter. Your alternator rating is valid only in a laboratory, when cold, spinning very fast with loads asking for 92+ amps with cabling thick enough to pass such  large current.    The stock charging circuit wiring is not made to pass this much, and adding another 10 to 20 feet of total circuit length through a solenoid insures constant battery undercharging and short lifespan. It will never, ever deliver 92 amps to your house batteries.  It might come within 90% of that  very briefly if you rev the engine to 4000 rpm when cold with depleted batteries with a 1500+  watt inverter powering your toaster. It is very easy to bridge the 2 larger contacts on the continuous duty solenoid witha short length of 4 awg cable, or remove the cable from one side of the solenoid and attach it to the other. No emergency switch needed.  If trying to jump the engine from house battery through the solenoid, more than 300 amps can be required and overload the contacts within the solenoid.  Better to bypass it and later return it to it's isolation function when the engine battery has gotten some juice in it. Fresh batteries bought right when you are ready to put them into service is best.  Buying them now to put into service later is unwise, unless you believe the Mayans.  The Dimensions are listed online.  Locations and cable lengths can be estimated till you are ready to use them. 12 volt batteries in parallel are said to have less voltage drop under high loads than 6 volts in series id the capacity is similar.  Agm batteries are less affected by this. Get yourself a dc to dc car converter for your mac book.  Inverters are only ~85% efficient and have a standby current which increases overall battery consumption Your proposed inverter will not power your proposed toaster. While possible to power a toaster off batteries, it will deplete the batteries  fast and significantly shorten their life. Some brick and stick conveniences cannot be easily transferred to vandwelling and other methods and skills must be developed, like frying bread in a skillet on a propane stove. I do believe 12 volt blenders exist. You should be researching Fuse Blocks, buss bars and high amp circuit breakers, and roof vents. A good 25 to 40 amp battery charger or Converter( google progressive dynamics pdxx series) should be on your list.  Relying on the alternator will kill your batteries as alternators do a very poor job taking a batteries above 80%. Every week it is important to make sure the batteries get as close to a true 100% charged or they suffer from progressive capacity loss/ poor performance.  Once again, the alternator will not do this. When You start researching Solar, as many watts you can shoehorn on your roof would not even be enough to cover your proposed loads above,  and keep the batteries healthiest. They will certainly help, but you are overestimating alternator contribution greatly, as well as battery capacity, and vastly underestimating the power draw of the items you plan on using, Macbook excepted.

Wacamp1022 · Sep 28, 2012

So I see in the back ground of the picture you already have your security system, a real good start.

akrvbob · Sep 28, 2012

If you are depending on your alternator to charge your batteries, buy the cheapest ones you can find. I'd suggest Interstate 6 volt golf carts because I think you can get them for about $100 each. Or Walmart marine batteries with the 3 year warranty 1 1/2 full refund. Chances are you are going to wreck them, so minimize your loss. When you upgrade to enough solar to keep them charged, then spend the money on good AGM golf carts. Doesn't the toaster oven need to be on for a long time for most cooking? Time is the enemy at 1300 watts per hour. 1300/60 = 22 watts a minute 22 watts/ 12 volt = 2 amps per minute Run a 1300 watt microwave for 5 minutes and that's only 10 amps. Use the toaster oven for 20 minutes to do the same thing and that's 40 amps. I would forget the toaster oven. A 1000 watt inverter is too small for either one, you need a 2000 watt. For the microwave you need a Pure Sine Wave and they are expensive. For either one you need BIG cables. Don't use anything less than 2/0. Put a 250 amp fuse in line from the positive post. Don't cut corners on the solenoid, get a 200 amp continuous duty. But I think you are better off with this: http://www.techbatterysolutions.com...p;gdftrk=gdfV23665_a_7c1669_a_7c7827_a_7cC008 Bob

wrcsixeight · Sep 29, 2012

Inside the fiberglass roof, there are wood strips that take a 3/4" screw pretty well, even though it is OSB and not plywood, at least on mine. I used contact cement to hold foil faced 1/2 inch insulation to the roof, but in between the wood ribs which are sandwiched within the fiberglass and increase ridgidity substantially. The following photo shows a little about how my fiberglass roof is constructed, and I can only assume your is similar.

That was my older solar wiring. Later I added another panel and upgraded the wiring and pass throughs with cord grips.

All this gets covered with more Cedar.  The front to back strips are oak which is screwed into the OSB ribs above and holds up the white plastic. The white foam is what I added, the yellow foam closest to the exterior was from the factory and sandwiched between the fiberglass.  Up around the peak of the roof  and all the way forward is fiberglass only, no wood or foam sandwiched, just 1/4 inch thick or thicker fiberglass so Glue to the  glued insulation board becomes necessary or other methods to hold things to the ceiling from the sides. For the floor I would recommend filling the valleys in the floor with either wood or foam, cover with a thin vapor barrier and make it flat with a layer of sealed (both top/ bottom and edges)  tight fitting 3/8+ inch thick plywood with a  1/8th to 3/16 wide gap around the edges that you can caulk to seal and then covering that with your flooring surface or your choice. Vinyl gets beat up pretty quick in my experience.  I replaced my vinyl 3 times in 6 years, I've been using my snap together laminate wood flooring for 5 years now, it is holding up pretty well.  If I had to do it over I's use real wood flooring, tongue and groove/ laid diagonally across the  foamed rib valleys and moisture barrier with no subfloor and held down by what i 'd built on top

Ian · Sep 29, 2012

@<a style="color: #000000; white-space: nowrap;" href="/profile/1980243">wrcsixeight</a> - Thanks for the points.   Take aways:  -No need for the "emergency switch."  -Probably going to let the toaster oven go...sounds like they're too energy hungry.   -Going to upgrade my inverter to a 2000W (http://www.shopepal.com/p-9832-xantrex-prowatt-sw2000-2000w-true-sinewave-inverter.aspx) -My blender is not 12V, its 120V.  550W/hr (I use it for about 30 sec at a time, pulsing occasionally after.) Trying to hold on to this appliance as I can get a good amount of protein, raw fruits, raw veggies, good fats for breakfast/snacks without a huge amount of energy consumed and easy clean up with litte water.) -Planning on a roof vent at the back of the van. Questions: -The need for a busbar is between the 2 batteries? Or between the batteries and fusebox for the inverter and other 12V uses? I will be using 2/0 or 4/0 gauge wire from the car battery to the solenoid and to the house battery bank.  Busbars seem a bit rigid for anything except connecting the 2 batteries (if i place them right next to each other).  -Will plan on using high amp fuses between + terminal of house battery and inverter and 12V fridge and 12V house lights (forgot to mention those in original posting). Do you recommend a fuse between the car battery and the solenoid?

Ian · Sep 29, 2012

@ <a style="color: #000000; white-space: nowrap;" href="/profile/1939204">Wacamp1022</a>: I don't believe I have a security system in this vehicle (at least nothing operation at the moment).  What were you referring to?  @akrvbob: Thanks for the comments/suggestions. Upgrading to 2000W inverter.  I still need to find a reasonably price Dometic refrigerator. Considering running that off of propane as my electric system may not be as robust as it could be. I have a couple take aways and questions:  -From your post I'm under the impression I can go with either the solenoid OR the CTEK D250S Dual Battery Charger. If correct, and with the future plan of going with solar, would you mount this inside the vehicle closer to the battery bank so when I bring solar wires from the roof I can access this easier or would you stick to the firewall in the engine area?  -I'll investigate in the Interstate - wouldn't mind minimizing losses as much as possible. You're recommending 2 6V in series over 2 12V in parellel?  @wrcsixeight: the reason for diagonal placement of the floor boards is for holding it place better I'm assuming? -Where is your vapor barrier on the ceiling? between the insulation and the plastic paneling? Is the major of the moisture coming from humidity within the van or from the elements on the outside.  I want to avoid having my van rust from the inside out without me noticing.  -I'm planning on complete covering the 2 windows on the driver side of the vehicle as my bed and storage will be there.  The windows are tinted at the moment, I was planning on just putting reflective foam up against the window.

wrcsixeight · Sep 29, 2012

I have no Vapor barrier on the ceiling, just under my flooring.  I Do not have a plywood under my snap together  fake wood laminate flooring, I just have the seams going side to side across the valleys.  Diagonal would have been better, as would have real wood, but of course more expensive with the need to be sealed both sides as well. The Bus bar just simplifies wiring. Not for going between batteries in series or parallel. For all house loads you can hook the (-)  leads to the buss bar and just have one thick cable running from buss bar to battery (-) terminal.  For the (+)  A Fuse block next to the buss bar allows you to run separate circuits to each light/ ciggy plug or any other 12 volt device, and keep all wiring somewhat organized.  The goal is to minimize the wiring running to the battery terminals themselves for the lighter loads and organize the wiring, because it quickly turns into a rats nest otherwise.  Also it allows room for adding circuits later.  I've got a fuse block for 12 circuits and am using 10 of those.  I started with 4. Larger items like the inverter should have their own dedicated fuse.  The inverter should be as close to the batteries as possible without being in the same compartment, and use very thick and short cabling with a large fuse or circuit breaker. Inverters have a sweet spot where they are most efficient.  Running a 2k watt inverter to charge your phone would be much less efficient than having a 150 watt inverter to do it, so while having a 2 k capacity is nice, consider that 2000 watts could run a table saw with room to spare.  Could be completely overkill.  And 2 batteries cannot deal with such loads for long, at all, even if healthy and fully charged to start with, which is rare.  As Bob says, Your first batteries are going to be learner batteries. So consider them disposable while you learn how much you can realistically ask for from batteries.

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