Would you buy it?

[nutxaq]

So I feel like I found a pretty good deal, but it's got some smudges on its record so I'm hoping some of you good folks can weigh in.
2005 Chevy Express 1500 $4750 209k miles.
The good: Sounds like a clean running engine. Fires right up, engine and transmission are responsive and game for accelerating, holding speed, climbing hills and or accelerating and holding speed on hills. Ride is smooth and handles well. body is straight and clean with little to no rust. One owner.
The bad: 209k miles, per my mechanic's report it does not look to be rigorously maintained despite solid running condition and needs the following addressed: dirty air filter, trans fluid is dark, brake fluid is dark, battery failed load test, chassis oily, shocks old but fair, wiring is old and corroded in place in some spots (as I understand it). Has not yet hit major engine & transmission replacement milestone.
I have a 2010 Mazda 3 deluxe package that I should be able to get upwards of $3k in trade and I think I could get the van for approx. $1k out of pocket plus the cost of bullet proofing which per my mechanic could be done for less than $1k if the engine and transmission will hold out for a while, so upwards of $2-3k to get this ready for conversion.
Would you buy this van? Any input is greatly appreciated.

 

[deadwood]

209k miles and your mechanic thinks it hasn't been maintained very well.. That's enough to get me looking at other vans.

 

[GotSmart]

No way.

 

[John61CT]

Not at half the price.

 

[nutxaq]

I'm not without means and therefore options. What if I beat the sales guy up for every dollar and replace the engine and tranny right off the bat?

 

[Ballenxj]

So I feel like I found a pretty good deal, but it's got some smudges on its record so I'm hoping some of you good folks can weigh in.
2005 Chevy Express 1500 $4750 209k miles.
<-------->
The bad: 209k miles, per my mechanic's report it does not look to be rigorously maintained despite solid running condition and needs the following addressed: dirty air filter, trans fluid is dark, brake fluid is dark,

That's enough for me. I'd thank him for showing it, then it would be see ya.

 

[hepcat]

I'm not without means and therefore options. What if I beat the sales guy up for every dollar and replace the engine and tranny right off the bat?

Then you're $15k into a van that is worth $5k.

Keep looking.  There's some really nice vans out there for $15k.

 

[nutxaq]

Guess I'll keep looking. Thanks.

 

[nutxaq]

Then you're $15k into a van that is worth $5k.

Keep looking.  There's some really nice vans out there for $15k.

Yeah, I don't have that many options. I'm gonna keep searching.

 

[John61CT]

You have the means to travel, broaden your search geographically.

 

[renovader]

not for more than $4300. Offer 1/2 of the asking price and go from there with all the work this van will need.

 

[highdesertranger]

lots of red flags. highdesertranger

 

[DannyB1954]

Engines and Transmissions are only part of the equation. The suspension can also cost you a lot in repairs. Frames flex and over time can develop stress cracks. My rule of thumb is a vehicle with 100,000 miles is worth half or less, ( those will probably be the most trouble free miles the vehicle will have). At 200,000 whoever owned it got their money's worth out of it. The residual value is near zero. If you buy one and anything fails, now your cost of repairs exceeds the value of the vehicle. It is called throwing good money after bad. You will never catch up.

 

[user 37446]

I know you said you will keep looking yet this is the statement that does it for me: 209K and the trans is original.

The GM motors will easily go to say 250K or more, as long as the oils have been changed regularly. Hmm, that one didnt give us that impression. Now had the PO changed the oil (as low as $18 to do) you'd never have known... :huh:

The tranny fluid could be dumped and refilled, leaving the torque converter alone, and the mixture would have been "red" instead of looking so old, another way to pull one over.

Depends on where you live too. Are you in the rust belt? If there's little to no rust then some would buy it and chance it. If you are in the SW or the west coast where non-rusted vehicles are the majority, then it's back to mechanicals you go.

A poster replied that you could purchase a non-running one for much less, if you have the deep pockets to change engine or tranny. That's true. I've seen a few CL ads in the last month in Phoenix (no rust usually) that are listed as having a blown head gasket or needs a tranny, and the vans are between priced between $500 and 1,500.

So keep that in mind.  

Good luck!  

 

[nutxaq]

I know you said you will keep looking yet this is the statement that does it for me: 209K and the trans is original.

The GM motors will easily go to say 250K or more, as long as the oils have been changed regularly. Hmm, that one didnt give us that impression. Now had the PO changed the oil (as low as $18 to do) you'd never have known... :huh:

The tranny fluid could be dumped and refilled, leaving the torque converter alone, and the mixture would have been "red" instead of looking so old, another way to pull one over.

Depends on where you live too. Are you in the rust belt? If there's little to no rust then some would buy it and chance it. If you are in the SW or the west coast where non-rusted vehicles are the majority, then it's back to mechanicals you go.

A poster replied that you could purchase a non-running one for much less, if you have the deep pockets to change engine or tranny. That's true. I've seen a few CL ads in the last month in Phoenix (no rust usually) that are listed as having a blown head gasket or needs a tranny, and the vans are between priced between $500 and 1,500.

So keep that in mind.  

Good luck!  

Yeah, after looking into it my pockets aren't deep enough for that. 

How much rust is too much? Obviously I don't want anything that runs deep, but in terms of rusted scrapes and chips here and there, at what point do you walk away?

 

[GotSmart]

How much rust is too much? Obviously I don't want anything that runs deep, but in terms of rusted scrapes and chips here and there, at what point do you walk away?

Cost / value / expected life of vehicle.

Rust is a real problem in some parts of the country.  There were vehicles made in the 70's that would rust out the second year. Cosmetic rust might indicate a problem.  Use the rule of thumb to decide.  If the thumb goes through the rust spot, walk away. If there is serious rust on the under carage, walk away. You do not want the steering system to fall off. 

If it is 15 years old, and you expect to only use it a few years ~~~ you can ignore a little rust.  Just remember it does not go away, and is called car cancer for a reason.

 

[user 37446]

+1 to above, in addition, a real good look (actually do a forum search for "rust" and read up) underneath, making sure the frame/crossmembers dont look like swiss cheese and don't have flaking off of the steel. Any body side panels that are rusted completely through is a bad sign. Rust is like cancer and never sleeps. There are rust converters however I think you are just buying some time. Better to skip anything that has definite rust evidence other than those scrapes...

 

[caretaker]

believe me rust converters DO NOT work,,,,rust is rust

 

[highdesertranger]

"it's better to burn out 'cause Rust Never Sleeps" NEIL Young. oh so true. "Hey Hey MY MY. highdesertranger

 

[user 37446]

from bobistheoilguy.com/forum:

"I have tried several rust converters over the years on some ag equipment and other applications. I have also accumulated about 2 dozen bookmarked sites on the subject. My opinion and experience is that rust converters in general are not the silver bullet they proclaim.

Both Rust Check and Krown claim their products will retard existing rust growth. That's one option, an oily substance that creeps into the rust and seams and blocks corrosives out. 

The "systems" like Eastwood and Por-15 seem to involve multiple steps that include preparation (physical and/or chemical) and then encapsulation (H20/02 exclusion).

Rustoleum still markets an old school rusty metal primer with fish oil that penetrates the rust and provides a base for a top coat. 

If you can encapsulate the area after the rust converter, which one do you credit for working?

Maybe not a lost cause, but probably a losing battle. Depends how much time and money you have. Sorry that I can't be more upbeat about rust converters....I tried."









[font=verdana, arial, helvetica, sans-serif]Quote:
[font=verdana, arial, helvetica, sans-serif]Originally Posted by John
So I've been looking u and have read mixed reviews....

....The whole floor is light surface rust. I want to stop it and keep it from turning into rot. Are there any better options? Media blasting?[/font][/font]

[font=verdana, arial, helvetica, sans-serif]They [/font][font=verdana, arial, helvetica, sans-serif] metal[/font]
[font=verdana, arial, helvetica, sans-serif]They do ct the rust t[/font]

[font=verdana, arial, helvetica, sans-serif]You CAN paint this "something".[/font]

[font=verdana, arial, helvetica, sans-serif]But there is a good chance that someday sooner or later that acid will creep through your paint and do nasty things. Why risk it? If you can abrade the metal until it's shinny clean, and cut out the cancer spots/weld in patches,...[/font]

[font=verdana, arial, helvetica, sans-serif]An Epoxy will last many more years than any "Rust Converter" could ever dream of.[/font]