Wire Ferrules

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highdesertranger

R.I.P HDR
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So the other day in an electrical thread I mentioned using wire ferrules when using stranded wire in pinch terminals.

IMO stranded wire should be used in mobile applications and if you have a pinch terminal you should use a ferrule on the wire.  I don't think I really explained it all that well so I thought some visual aids would help.  I found this short video(3.5 min) on you tube that does a real good job of showing ferrules and why you should use them.  This is not an endorsement of the tool or the ferrules shown on the video.  it's simply educational,

(631) STOP Connecting Stranded Wire Like an Animal - Do it LIKE A PRO! - YouTube

Highdesertranger
 
Oh that is a really groovy tool. Personally I dont trust crimped on terminals. I go it a step further and solder the wires after I insert them into a ring terminal connector, spade terminal, bullet terminal, etc.

That video does a very good job illustrating why its dangerous to use loose wires inside of a screw terminal. If you're planning on installing electrical wiring yourself I strongly urge you to watch that video.

If anyone is interested I can post a pic of the terminals on my charge controller showing how I use a cheaper alternative of just off the shelf in any auto parts store terminals and solder rather than a specialized brand of terminals and tool.
 
As has been discussed before here I use solder but heat shrink tubing in my opinion is necessary to support the wire as vibration and flexing going down rough roads tends to break the wire at the stress point at the edge of the soldered joint where as properly crimped terminals tend not to break the wire.
 
That's a good point. I've never used heat sharing tubing, but then again the only mobile system I've built before my van was on a boat.

Boats in particular I learned that movement not just can but WILL jerk wiring loose. Heat shrink might have helped in that installation. Thanks.
 
A good crimp with a copper furrule is better than a good solder joint (less resistance).
If crimping is good enough for airplanes and race cars it should be good enough for my camper.  But you need the right tools.

Heating copper changes the temper: makes it more brittle.  This is important with fine wire strands; they tend to break with little flexing.  Shrink tube helps but you should be using that anyway on all splices.

The right flux, the correct solder, correct temperature, correct technique is important to get a good solder joint.  It is easier to get a good crimp with the right tool than to get a good solder joint.  Soldering (like welding) requires practice.

You should pull hard on any joint you make (keeping in mind the size of the wire).

Either will work adequately for campers if done correctly.
 
That's a cool setup but if you are only installing a few wires in a few screw terminals, then tinning the end with solder will also work.
 
tx2sturgis said:
That's a cool setup but if you are only installing a few wires in a few screw terminals, then tinning the end with solder will also work.
I've done that before but when the screw terminal flattens the tinned wires in my experience they're more likely to pull out.

My new CC I actually slit open some bullet connectors and installed the 10g wire inside and crimped it into place. Then soldered them. It gave the screw terminals a lot to bite down on.

My old PWM controller I used spade terminals and trimmed them to size to fit in the screw terminals and soldered them.

My 2 cents.
 
Just ordered this.  I'm afraid to subscribe to that channel, I'd have even more tools than I have now.
 
I should have bought stock. ;) J/K HDR. That's actually a cool find.
 
Ah, so that's how they do those connections! I see those ferrules inside Tesla charge stations. Also, I had a good laugh at that video. That guys really just needs to twist his wires together better.
 
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