highdesertranger
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did that happy meal come with the water inlets? LOL. for highway tires Michelin, BFGoodrich, Goodyear, or Cooper would be my recommendations. highdesertranger
Water damage, the good the bad and other upgrades
- Thread starter shadow
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shadow
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highdesertranger said:
Happy meal was extra, LOL.
shadow
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Bud Smiley
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shadow said:
From my notes, any 8 lug Ford and Dodge 16" wheels will fit. The Chevy/GMC ones have a center bore that is too small. The metric tire size is 225/75R16.
That's from when I was looking into doing the same on my old Dodge-based Class C.
shadow
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Bud Smiley said:
Thanks for the info on the rims and tires.
I actually checked out the tire sizes on some newer rv`s, and they all had 225/75R16 tires on them.
I just hadn`t verified with a tire shop that this size tire was comparable to what`s on my rv now.
Bud Smiley
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Cool, I hope it helps. I haven't ended up replacing my wheels yet so please post up when you do.
How did your heater install go? I just put the same unit in a few weeks ago and then parked through a hurricane...and no leaks! 
It's thin metal and deformed slightly, but enough that the vent louvers really obstructed the cover lid closing. But some moderate persuasion got it back into shape, and liberal use of butyl tape seems to be a good way to pack a not-so-uniform perimeter gap...if you layer the tape it molds into a putty-like seal...it was either that or 5200, and I have commitment issues...
It's thin metal and deformed slightly, but enough that the vent louvers really obstructed the cover lid closing. But some moderate persuasion got it back into shape, and liberal use of butyl tape seems to be a good way to pack a not-so-uniform perimeter gap...if you layer the tape it molds into a putty-like seal...it was either that or 5200, and I have commitment issues...
shadow
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Hot water heater install is getting done this weekend, along with a couple of other things.
I will have lots of pictures of everything I get done.
I will have lots of pictures of everything I get done.
shadow
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Bud Smiley said:
I am saving up the money to get the rims and tires.
I`m figuring about $2000 dollars for the rims and tires, that`s my guess.
But with my luck it will probable be more.
Lots of pictures for sure when its done.
shadow
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Weekend Update.
I managed to get my hot water heater replaced before the rain started today.
It actually took longer than I thought it would.
by the time you get the old hot water heater out, remove all of the old butyl tape,
and get the new hot water heater ready to install, you are already a couple of hours
into the project.
Once the new hot water heater is ready to install, insert it partially into the opening, and
hook up the electrical wires, there are three wires to hook up. Once the wires are hooked
up slide the hot water heater all the way into the opening.
If you have an older rv there is a good chance that half or more of the screw holes will be
stripped out, and you will need to drill new holes in order to screw the hot water heater down
tightly. This is something I had to do.
I was rushing to beat the rain, so I didn`t get as many pictures as I wanted to.
Everyone that owns any type of rv, don`t forget to drain your hot water tank before
the freezing weather arrives, or you will pay an expensive price in having to replace the hot water heater.
To anyone that is new to this thread, I bought my rv this way, I did not cause this to happen.
When you are getting the new hot water heater ready to install, one of the things you have to do
is to bend the flanges out so you can put the butyl tape on the back sides.
Water fittings on the back side.
The opening in the side of the rv, all cleaned up and ready for the new hot water heater.
I managed to get my hot water heater replaced before the rain started today.
It actually took longer than I thought it would.
by the time you get the old hot water heater out, remove all of the old butyl tape,
and get the new hot water heater ready to install, you are already a couple of hours
into the project.
Once the new hot water heater is ready to install, insert it partially into the opening, and
hook up the electrical wires, there are three wires to hook up. Once the wires are hooked
up slide the hot water heater all the way into the opening.
If you have an older rv there is a good chance that half or more of the screw holes will be
stripped out, and you will need to drill new holes in order to screw the hot water heater down
tightly. This is something I had to do.
I was rushing to beat the rain, so I didn`t get as many pictures as I wanted to.
Everyone that owns any type of rv, don`t forget to drain your hot water tank before
the freezing weather arrives, or you will pay an expensive price in having to replace the hot water heater.
To anyone that is new to this thread, I bought my rv this way, I did not cause this to happen.
When you are getting the new hot water heater ready to install, one of the things you have to do
is to bend the flanges out so you can put the butyl tape on the back sides.
Water fittings on the back side.
The opening in the side of the rv, all cleaned up and ready for the new hot water heater.
Attachments
shadow
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shadow
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I am not going to water test the water system right now, as much as I really want to, because we are
only about a month away from freezing weather here. So it will be next spring before I can do that.
There is a lot more I want to get done this weekend, provided that the rain stops.
only about a month away from freezing weather here. So it will be next spring before I can do that.
There is a lot more I want to get done this weekend, provided that the rain stops.
highdesertranger
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couple of hints for future reference,
fill the original screw holes. I have used wood glue or 2 part epoxy. then the screw get a good bite without drilling new holes. this is SOP for me if the screws are stripped or not.
as far as the butyl tape, install it on the body not the appliance, door, window, roof vent or whatever. I don't know where this started(install the butyl on the accessory) but I see it on youtube all the time. that is opposite of what I was taught. highdesertranger
fill the original screw holes. I have used wood glue or 2 part epoxy. then the screw get a good bite without drilling new holes. this is SOP for me if the screws are stripped or not.
as far as the butyl tape, install it on the body not the appliance, door, window, roof vent or whatever. I don't know where this started(install the butyl on the accessory) but I see it on youtube all the time. that is opposite of what I was taught. highdesertranger
shadow
Well-known member
If you have a wood framed rv, filling the holes would work. I have actually done this before on other projects.
But, this would not work on my rv, because all of the exterior openings are aluminum framed, so you can`t fill
the holes, so the only option is to drill new holes.
But, this would not work on my rv, because all of the exterior openings are aluminum framed, so you can`t fill
the holes, so the only option is to drill new holes.
shadow
Well-known member
I don`t know if I am going to get anything done this weekend, its raining and 20 mph winds right now.
I am far from done, but with winter coming on progress is going to be a bit slow for now.
I will continue to get as much done as I can on the weekends, as the weather permits.
I am far from done, but with winter coming on progress is going to be a bit slow for now.
I will continue to get as much done as I can on the weekends, as the weather permits.
VanKitten
Well-known member
Shadow, use marinetex Water proof. Sandable. Paintable.
I used it to fill the holes I made in the aluminum top of my RV
I used it to fill the holes I made in the aluminum top of my RV
jimindenver
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Shadow
They make a air nipple that screws into the city water hook up. It is used to blow the system dry for winterization. I would not go above what a RV pressure regulator allows for (40 pounds I think) but you could pressure the system some and see if it holds pressure over night. A spray bottle with some soapy water will show you where it is leaking if it does not hold the pressure.
As to if blowing out the system is as effective as anti-freeze is a interesting topic. The only thing I do know is that you do not want to do both because the residue anti-freeze will dry in the lines and be hard to rinse out. Still it would be a good idea to get a handle on the techniques because even out here you never know when it will be 77 F one day and 24 F with snow the next.
They make a air nipple that screws into the city water hook up. It is used to blow the system dry for winterization. I would not go above what a RV pressure regulator allows for (40 pounds I think) but you could pressure the system some and see if it holds pressure over night. A spray bottle with some soapy water will show you where it is leaking if it does not hold the pressure.
As to if blowing out the system is as effective as anti-freeze is a interesting topic. The only thing I do know is that you do not want to do both because the residue anti-freeze will dry in the lines and be hard to rinse out. Still it would be a good idea to get a handle on the techniques because even out here you never know when it will be 77 F one day and 24 F with snow the next.
shadow
Well-known member
]I know about the air nipple, and I plan on getting one, but I don`t need it right now.
I just finished upgrading the water system in my rv. I replaced about ninety percent of the old grey plastic
water line with pex. I also replaced the water pump, hot water heater, removed and cleaned the water tank, so the water system
is completely empty right now.
I did a google search on the recommended maximum city water pressure for an rv.
For newer rv`s its 60 psi, and for older rv`s its 50 psi.
The city water inlet on my rv is also a pressure regulator, so it will keep the city water pressure at 60 psi maximum.
I did pour some rv antifreeze down all of the sink drains, but not in the water system.
I am not going to do anything else to the water system right now, the weather is getting really cold
here and I think we will be getting some snow in the next couple of weeks.
I just finished upgrading the water system in my rv. I replaced about ninety percent of the old grey plastic
water line with pex. I also replaced the water pump, hot water heater, removed and cleaned the water tank, so the water system
is completely empty right now.
I did a google search on the recommended maximum city water pressure for an rv.
For newer rv`s its 60 psi, and for older rv`s its 50 psi.
The city water inlet on my rv is also a pressure regulator, so it will keep the city water pressure at 60 psi maximum.
I did pour some rv antifreeze down all of the sink drains, but not in the water system.
I am not going to do anything else to the water system right now, the weather is getting really cold
here and I think we will be getting some snow in the next couple of weeks.
shadow
Well-known member
Weekend Update.
The wind and rain let up today, and I was able to get a couple of things done.
I got the city water hook up replaced, and I got the lockable water tank fill replaced.
Here is the original city water hook up, after thirty plus years on the rv the plastic was starting
to crack and flake off.
This is the opening for the city water hook up, someone used silicone to seal it, and it didn`t last very long.
The new city water hook up on the left, and the old one on the right.
The city water hook up is also a pressure regulator.
The wind and rain let up today, and I was able to get a couple of things done.
I got the city water hook up replaced, and I got the lockable water tank fill replaced.
Here is the original city water hook up, after thirty plus years on the rv the plastic was starting
to crack and flake off.
This is the opening for the city water hook up, someone used silicone to seal it, and it didn`t last very long.
The new city water hook up on the left, and the old one on the right.
The city water hook up is also a pressure regulator.
Attachments
shadow
Well-known member
This is the old water tank fill, it has also seen better days.
This is the opening for the water tank filler, you can see the insides of the exterior walls are filled with solid foam insulation.
This is the new water tank filler.
This is the opening for the water tank filler, you can see the insides of the exterior walls are filled with solid foam insulation.
This is the new water tank filler.
