Vintage SM Block vs Big Block

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slow2day said:
The Chevy with 3 gas tanks would help in that area. The one in the bed is probably 80-100 gallons.
Just buy a lot of StaBil.


Yes, three gas tanks not a bad feature.  Looking at the tank in the bed gets me wondering what best
solution might be to disguise/protect from gas thieves, tho.  One of those tanto covers, perhaps.  Even
locking gas caps aren't much protection. 

On my old aircooled Vdubs I inserted one of those spiraling steel things into the filler, which made it impossible
to insert a hose into tank.  Once SOB I was pulled over by a bunch of federales & made to stand waiting
while they attempted to steal my gas.  They were baffled, then infuriated when foiled.  I pretended not to
understand why their hose wouldn't go in!

How long does StaBil protect gas, do you know?
:rolleyes: Charlotte
 
Not in sales, ever, just goal orientated. It is possible to update things like disc brakes using factory parts for better performance and ease of maintenance which if done properly I would highly recommend. Electronic ignition on early Chevys is self contained within the distributor (HEI) and having a complete spare distributor is a good idea as well as one wire alternator and starter when traveling in remote areas. I believe most gas additives on the bottle state a max of 60 days.
 
If the gasoline is stored in a sealed gas can with no venting, then stabilized fuel will usually last a year or more.

If there are vents to the atmosphere, such as in older vehicle fuel tanks and carbs, then treated fuel should be good for at least a few months.
 
bullfrog said:
It is possible to update things like disc brakes using factory parts for better performance and ease of maintenance which if done properly I would highly recommend.  Electronic ignition on early Chevys is self contained within the distributor (HEI)  and having a complete spare distributor is a good idea as well as one wire alternator and starter when traveling in remote areas.  I believe most gas additives on the bottle state a max of 60 days.

Thanks, good info here!
I'm big on keeping backup parts on hand &, now, learning  *which* parts. 
As to StaBil: does that mean after 60 days more StaBil is added?  Is there a limit to how many times
an additive can be added?

Charlotte
 
I have never tried adding more but I've been spoiled by older air cooled VWs and Jeeps with low compression motors, metal fuel lines and simple carbs. Usually with vented fuel systems a lot of the fuel has evaporated as I live in a hot dry climate and I just add fresh high octane gas and go.
 
bullfrog said:
... and simple carbs.

Speaking of carbs; you asked if the '69 Chevy had the 'right carb'. It's right in that it looks like someone installed a new replacement 4-barrel carb (manual choke,too).

It may be 'wrong' in that a 2 bbl. is simpler and would be less costly to rebuild or replace in the future. Unless you would do a lot of heavy towing or like to drag race, you don't really need a 4 bbl....IMHO.
 
The factory carb once the leaking well/plug problems were JB Welded worked great and were easy to keep tuned.
 
Dual fuel propane conversion.

Very large 100% secretly buried propane storage you fill yourself no one knows about.

Pig farm, methane production.

Post-SHTF, a team of armed spotters make sure no surveillance when returning home.

Personally don't want to live in that world, silver bullet solution for me.
 
My 2 wheel drive 65 Dodge 1/2 ton has leaf springs front and rear, with a straight axle in front, very strong.
The slant 6 engine and 4.10 gears means it has a top cruising speed of 55 mph, the truck gets 15 mpg unloaded, 12 mpg with a small slide in camper. The truck never breaks, as there is nothing to break, one belt runs alternator and water pump. Manual steering and brakes. If ultra reliability is the goal, the less options the better.
 
John61CT said:
"...Post-SHTF, a team of armed spotters make sure no surveillance when returning home. 

Personally don't want to live in that world, silver bullet solution for me."



Good morning John,

Agreed, no one wants to live in "that" world.  But who knows precisely what's coming?
The possibilities are endless.  (One thing's sure: I will never agree to be chipped.)
Meanwhile, I intend to get on with my joyful, quirky rural life among other
creative & free-thinking self reliant types.  

Look for a small rural community off beaten track, where inhabitants already
have history/culture of self reliance.  Hunker down.  Become a valuable addition
to your community.  Mean time, enjoy life & have fun!  It's an adventure.

Silver bullet solution last resort.
:rolleyes: Charlotte
 
Itripper said:
My 2 wheel drive 65 Dodge 1/2 ton has leaf springs front and rear, with a straight axle in front, very strong.
The slant 6 engine and 4.10 gears means it has a top cruising speed of 55 mph, the truck gets 15 mpg unloaded, 12 mpg with a small slide in camper. The truck never breaks, as there is nothing to break, one belt runs alternator and water pump. Manual steering and brakes. If ultra reliability is the goal, the less options the better.


Good report, thanks!
While Chevy gets a big thumbs up by many, I will take a good look at any likely old Dodge I come across
in my search.  Your mpg is remarkable, & as to 55 mph---that's my favorite cruising speed!  Comes from
decades of VW bus ownership.  And 55 mph is the perfect speed for safe rubber necking!

Cheers,
;) Charlotte
 
bullfrog said:
The factory carb once the leaking well/plug problems were JB Welded worked great and were easy to keep tuned.


By factory carb, do you refer to 2 barrel?  I love JB Weld, always have a package under back seat.
What do you mean by well/plug problems?

:huh: Charlotte
 
Charlotte\ said:
Meanwhile, I intend to get on with my joyful, quirky rural life among other
creative & free-thinking self reliant types.  

Are you familiar with living on the 'Mesa' in New Mexico?

I know you have mentioned New Mexico...just wondering if you have heard of that area.

When you have the spare bandwidth:

 
highdesertranger said:
with a V-8 you will get better MPG with a 4bbl carb. highdesertranger

As long as you keep your foot out of it that's true. I always had trouble doing that...LOL.

I'm just staying more with the 'simpler-is-better' theme...
 
I was referring to the 4 barrel as it has smaller primary barrels. The wells and plugs leaked as they got older and rebuild kits came with foam seals to solve the problem but like most I preferred a more permanent fix. Power steering and power brakes are more likely to have problems but spare parts solve most of those. Standard transmissions can be geared down to add engine braking to non power brakes but older GM power brakes seldom have problems. Big diameter steering wheels still require two hands to steer and with a load at slow speeds can be tough to steer if you have a injured elbow or shoulder, just something to consider.
 
^
Oh, that is super nice. I always wondered why Jeep quit building the pickups.
 
I've got a 1979 J10 4 speed with Ford granny gear, 4.10 axles, 2" spring lift (extra leaf rear), TeraFlex low gear transfer case. 360 cubic inch rebuilt motor with new water pump housing. Eldenbrock carb and manifold and DUI ignition. Top speed without over reving is about 55MPH. Power steering and power brakes with stock front disc. I love driving the truck but it is loud with wind coming up through the floor ( new pans $150) the windows rattle ($600 for all the parts to rebuild and mine has coarse screw handle which is hard to find). Bought it for $1500 ten years ago and have spent $8,000 on all the parts and repairs. Drove it from Flagstaff to Utah 350 miles took 8 hours and averaged about 13 MPG. Had a piece of something fly up off the road and took out the fan shroud and fan but I was able to bend the fan blade back and get home with out getting hot running the heater on high so $50 for a fan and $175 for fiberglass fan shroud I'm still waiting to be made. Could get a metal less effective shroud but in 100 plus heat you need all the cooling you can get at crawl speeds. So as you can see even cheap trucks can cost pretty big bucks, you gotta love them but pay to keep them and occasionally accept there are some things you just can't afford to fix in my case. Over 10 years spending $9,500 ain't bad but also bought a lot of premium gasoline. In my opinion that truck is to pretty. I would be afraid to scratch it and somebody would want to steal it. Blocks are never a good way to lift things in my opinion either. If you could talk him down a little it wouldn't be a bad buy after all a 2013 Toyota with 100,000 miles books for more.
 
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