Vintage SM Block vs Big Block

[Charlotte's Web]

"Years ago I had a 1963 Chevy pickup and if I remember correctly it had coil springs front and back...and it had a very soft, 'floaty' ride. (wood plank bed floor too!) I don't know when they switched to rear leafs....I assume this one you linked has leafs but I dont know that. 

And the gastank in the cab worries me a bit...yes that's just the way they built them back then. Then they went with saddle tanks...issues there too. "

Texas, is a soft, "floaty" ride problematic/uncomfortable?  Sounds a bit like a memory foam mattress!
What would be your choise for type of springs?

Give me more of your thoughts on gas tank position, please.  Are these foolish?  Too dangerous?

And no kidding around on this one...
:s Charlotte

 

[user 423]

[quote="Charlotte']
If I were in NM right now & ready to look seriously, I'd inspect this one.
[/quote]

I'm kind of surprised that the ad is still up after 13 days.

 

[bullfrog]

My dad bought a new 1968 C20 Camper Special. It came with a 327 cubic inch V8, automatic, with split rim wheels, power steering, power brakes and an optional wider bench seat called the seat and a half option. He said that he got that for me and my half-assed friends. He got it at the end of the year for a little over $2,800. We had a triple decker 11' truck camper we got as little as 7 MPG in a head wind doing 60MPH to as much as 12MPG empty doing 55MPH. I believe the rear gear was 4.10 or 4.53. I'm not sure when the 350 cubic engine came out and when they stopped using split rims on heavy duty applications and I'm not remembering it having a wooden bed. For that price I would have it checked out for things like a bent rear axle, frame straightness and alignment as heavy towing can wear and cause problems with these. Make sure it hasn't been in an accident and had the bed replaced. The drive train is completely replaceable so I wouldn't be too concerned about that but the frame not so much. Bodies tend to rust at the cab rear corner mounts, so take a good look at those. I bought a rust free 1966 VW bus in Albuquerque and after two years in humid Kentucky it rusted out due to sand that had built up in the body seams so it will probably be a good idea to treat those type areas if you get it. If it is a truly less than 100,000 mile original truck that has been kept up and everything checks out okay the price is a little high but not much in my opinion but does not appear to be 100% original with matching numbers so not a collector material.

 

[Charlotte's Web]

"I'm kind of surprised that the ad is still up after 13 days."

Lots of good CL trucks in Bay Area not selling---except Toyota Tacomas.

Could be 'cause economy sucks, gas is high ($4 gal in my N CA valley),
lots & lots of ads give "must sell/medical emergency, plus all trucks owned by
men as toys must go when times hard, etc.

But always good to pay attention to all "red flags" in CL offerings... :dodgy:
Charlotte

 

[Charlotte's Web]

That's a lot of good & useful information, thanks!
Naturally, I wouldn't buy any truck without having it gone over by a *competent* mechanic
or knowledgeable friend (likely of the male variety!).

So, another once-upon-a-time VW Bus owner...
Charlotte

 

[user 423]

[quote="Charlotte']
So, another once-upon-a-time VW Bus owner...
[/quote]

That's me, too. A '67 and '70 back in the '80s. Plus '60 and '63 sunroof bugs (long gone) and at present a Wolfsburg '86 Jetta with only 55k on it.

 

[highdesertranger]

wow so many question, lets see if I can straighten out some.

1. 350 engine was introduced in 1967
2. wood bed floors were standard until 1972 on fleet side PU's. until 1987 on step side.
3. coil rear springs was standard on all 1/2-3/4 ton until 1972. 1 ton and heavy duty 3/4 ton had leaf springs. the leaf springs were an option on all trucks until 1972 then it was standard on all trucks. more then likely that truck has leaf springs.
4. the tank behind the seat was standard until 1972. that wouldn't bother me, it could always be deleted. I have a 1947 CJ2A the fuel tank is on the inside under the driver seat. you literally sit on the gas tank.
did I miss anything?
highdesertranger

 

[Charlotte's Web]

wow so many question,  lets see if I can straighten out some.

1.  350 engine was introduced in 1967
2.  wood bed floors were standard until 1972 on fleet side PU's.  until 1987 on step side.
3.  coil rear springs was standard on all 1/2-3/4 ton until 1972.  1 ton and heavy duty 3/4 ton had leaf springs.  the leaf springs were an option on all trucks until 1972 then it was standard on all trucks.  more then likely that truck has leaf springs.
4.  the tank behind the seat was standard until 1972.  that wouldn't bother me,  it could always be deleted.  I have a 1947 CJ2A the fuel tank is on the inside under the driver seat.  you literally sit on the gas tank.
did I miss anything?

Thanks SO much, Stranger...
Did you miss anything?  I doubt it!  But it's still early yet  

Boy, my learning curve is accelerating.   Now, the rain has let up & my goal for day is to remove
as many more stock panels as I can before next storm rolls in. 

Charlotte

 

[Spaceman Spiff]

You can tell a lot about milage from the condition of the driver's side seat, floor and pedals.  They look in excellent condition from the pictures for a '69 with 81,000+ miles.  If the carpeting and pedals are original, there is no way this truck has 181,000 miles on it.

If the gas tank behind the seat is a concern for you, you can take it out and either use the tank in the bed or put an  aftermarket tank between the framerails.  I've driven a number of vehicles with the gas tank in the passenger compartment and I'm still here.

With all these old trucks, find a good mechanic to look it over for you.

 

[tx2sturgis]

I just happen to have a male friend who lives in Albuquerque, and is retired.

If you are somewhat serious, I could ask him to take a look at it, maybe drive it for you...

This is all speculative of course.

 

[Charlotte's Web]

"...A '69 was designed to run on leaded gas; possible problems with using unleaded gasahol these days."

Nagging question.  Not yet answered, even by HDR.  Anyone care to take a stab at this?

:huh: Charlotte

 

[Charlotte's Web]

I just happen to have a male friend who lives in Albuquerque, and is retired.  If you are somewhat serious,
I could ask him to take a look at it, maybe drive it for you...

Thanks Brian, what a generous/thoughtful offer.  But truth is I am in no position yet to buy a replacement
truck.  Complications on my end:  something now in escrow but iffy, plus near-impossible task of closing up my
10 acre homestead, packing, making repairs, clean up---it's daunting & impossible to get a realistic timeline
on listing/sale.  But need to formulate a workable exit strategy for when things fall into place finally...

Once I've moved my "effects" to NM, I will need to immediately find a suitable reliable truck, then begin
search for new digs.  As per ususal, there's a method to my madness.

BTW, I'm always "somewhat serious".
Charlotte

 

[user 423]

[quote="Charlotte']

Anyone care to take a stab at this?

[/quote]

Googling a bit shows various opinions. Most say to avoid gasahol or at least use an additive. A lot would depend on how and how much driving you do. Check post #12 in the link below; a reference to a '69 Chevy 350.

https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/unleaded-gas-vs-non-hardened-valve-seats.827920/

BTW: Since you're considering 60's era trucks, the above link would be a good resource.

 

[highdesertranger]

I answered the unleaded question way back when I was talking about lite weighting, I think. heads designed to run on leaded fuel MUST be rebuilt to run on unleaded. harden seats and valves MUST be installed. highdesertranger

 

[Charlotte's Web]

"I answered the unleaded question way back when I was talking about lite weighting,  I think.  heads designed to run on leaded fuel MUST be rebuilt to run on unleaded.  harden seats and valves MUST be installed." 

 

OK Stranger, I will  revisit earlier post...just keep in mind I am still not exactly clear on the concept
of much of these details (but don't tear you hair, I will get it eventually I hope!)

Should I assume, with regard to the '69 Chevy in question, that if indeed it has been in use on/off
all these years that it has the hardened seats/valves installed already?

:huh: Don't give up on me yet, I'm not permanently hopeless, ha ha
Charlotte

 

[user 423]

[quote="Charlotte']
Should I assume, with regard to the '69 Chevy in question, that if indeed it has been in use on/off
all these years that it has the hardened seats/valves installed already?
[/quote]

No. The motor looks like it hasn't ever been torn down and the ad doesn't mention a rebuild.

 

[johnny b]

Nagging question.  Not yet answered, even by HDR.  Anyone care to take a stab at this?
:huh: Charlotte

2 issues.
First, lead acted as a 'lubricant' for the intake and exhaust valves...the sealing face of the valve where it meets with the 'valve seat'. Not too big an issue on the intake valve, but definitely a problem for the exhaust valve. The lack of lead allowed deterioration of the mating surfaces, resulting in what's known as a 'burnt valve'. The sealing surface would no longer seal which caused compression loss resulting in misfires. Continued driving and bits of the valve could actually break off, and having even the smallest bits of metal bouncing around in a cylinder is not a good thing $$$.
The solution is removing the cylinder heads and having a machine shop install new 'hardened' valves and seats. Basically at this point the heads should just be completely rebuilt...new valves, seats, springs and keepers. Would check for warpage and resurface if needed. In today's world it would be a rare find for an old motor not to have had this done already (unless it's a barn find and has not been running for 30 years).

Second, the alcohol in today's 'crap gas' is corrosive to rubber, aluminum and plastics. Older rubber fuel lines will degrade and clog the fuel filter. Some bits in older carburetors also don't like alcohol. These issues are actually easy to fix with more modern materials...replace the fuel lines, filters and rebuild the carb....again should already have been done on an old vehicle still on the road. Alcohol also absorbs water. Back in the day we in the colder winter areas would use 'dry gas' products to remove the water condensation that would form in the gas tanks. It was nothing more than a small bottle of alcohol. 10 or 12 ounces in a 20 gallon tank of gas every now and then would 'mix' with the water on the bottom of the tank and allow it to be burned thru the motor. (water and gas don't mix, water is heavier and sinks to the bottom)
Nowadays, with crap gas having a 10% mix of alcohol 'dry gas' products are obsolete.
However, a modern day 'hack' is that you can use water to remove the alcohol...but that's a different thread.    

Hope this long winded diatribe helps.

(and of course in the time it took to write this, HDR and others have already chimed back in...but WTH, I wrote it, I'm posting it.     )

 

[Charlotte's Web]

No.  The motor looks like it hasn't ever been torn down and the ad doesn't mention a rebuild.

OK, thanks Slow.
I saved your provided link---useful!  Now, re the '69 Chevy in question:  seems like it would be good
to know whether it has 80K miles or 180.  If 180K I would likely opt to leave engine alone---especially
since I am "easy" on my vehicles---& when time came for engine replacement then deal with isssue.

I like the following suggestion on your provided link:

"The upshot is, add a little MMM or Redex, don't drive too hard or fast for long periods and you should have no trouble."

Lots of old waterboxer owners swear by this stuff.   
Charlotte

 

[user 423]

[quote="Charlotte']
If 180K I would likely opt to leave engine alone---
[/quote]

You do mean 80k? I believe on this truck Spaceman Spiff is right that it may only have that lower mileage. I was just saying in general that you need to be wary of old vehicles with the 5-digit speedos.

BTW: One thing you need to be aware of is that primo old trucks like these are targets for thieves. Plus, they are easier to steal than newer vehicles unless you take precautions.

 

[Charlotte's Web]

However, a modern day 'hack' is that you can use water to remove the alcohol...but that's a different thread.    

Hope this long winded diatribe helps.   (and of course in the time it took to write this, HDR and others have already chimed back in...but WTH, I wrote it, I'm posting it.    

JB, Yes!  Lot of good info here.  Thanks.

In Mexico, for reasons not clearly understood by me at the time, I used an additive for water removal in my
VW camper, said to be valuable due to poor Pemex gas.

Glad you chimed in.  (BTW, as to mules SHtF:  In lush PNW/N CA, for example, 10 acres of good managed
natural pasture required per head.  In SW, up to 80 acres required.  So if you don't meet that requirement,
you'd better have a good strong back to lug your ammo around...)

Charlotte