Vintage SM Block vs Big Block

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on the valves, if you put unleaded in fuel in an engine that was designed for leaded fuel, it will not be an instant problem but it will be over time. you could drive it a couple of miles a weak for years with no apparent problems. but if you were to drive it on a long trip you would have problems. I really don't consider it a deal breaker just keep in mind that you have to do a valve job. should be about 500 bucks. a word about valve jobs, there are good machine shops that do great work and there are BS shops that do junk work. know your shop. highdesertranger
 
slow2day said:
"BTW:  One thing you need to be aware of is that primo old trucks like these are targets for thieves. Plus, they are easier to steal than newer vehicles unless you take precautions."


Theft:  The thought did cross my mind.  What sort of precautions would you suggest?  Area I am headed is
known to be "low crime"---but better safe than sorry. 

On my current Westfalia, I had my mechanic install
a discreet small toggle switch in bottom of dash ashtray.  This switch cut off connection to ignition.  I just
covered up the switch with gum wrappers...

:huh: Charlote
 
slow2day said:
No. The motor looks like it hasn't ever been torn down and the ad doesn't mention a rebuild.

Although it might have had a valve job. You'd have to do some checking...
 
The main issue are hardened valve seats and compression ratio/Ignition timing/fuel mixture/altitude in relation to the heat in the combustion chamber. Leaded fuel helped keep the exhaust valves and seats cool. In the older engines it was not uncommon to get the ignition timing too advanced or fuel mixture too lean for the octane of the fuel or compression too high when repairing an engine or just move from the coast to Denver without adjusting these things. All these variables were adjustable and needed to be as fuel quality, altitude and wear all needed to be adjusted for to get the best performance without damaging the engine. Leaded fuel provided a safety cushion as it allowed a wider range of adjustments before you basically melted the valve seats or valves out of the engine. Car manufacturers improved their engines and management systems over the years to meet the demands of unleaded fuel. First was they made valves and seats out of more heat resistant materials and these could be refitted into the older engines at the machine shop when rebuilt so you were able to continue using the older engines. After market made fuel additives called Octane Boosters that you could add to you gas tank. As fuel had to meet government standards the government decided to force the car manufactures to build "cleaner more efficient engines" by changing the fuel standards. A lot of older worn out cars came off the road as it was not economical to update them and it gave a lot of people a reason to spend money on new cars or repairs. This is one reason to consider a new factory crate motor from the manufacture as it should have the latest updates. Oils are regulated also by the government and have changed so valve trains in engines have changed. One reason air cooled VW engine builders have had to modify the way they break in solid lifter engines, but that is yet another chapter in this book that this reply has become. A reminder no political rants!!! It's just the way it is. It don't mean nothing.
 
Charlotte\ said:
Since the 1960's I have owned a series of three VW Westfalias, two
aircooled & my current water boxer.  Over the many decades I have
driven, usually alone, into Mexico & as far as Guatemala.  I managed
to do this successfully by understanding my vehicle's needs & limits.

Not a full-blown thread detour, just a link. 

This lady, Becky, is traveling in a Westfalia to the Van Build:

https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCtD1UzSdPlRyUCJ0sSeuLTA/videos
 
tx2sturgis said:
Not a full-blown thread detour, just a link.  This lady, Becky, is traveling in a Westfalia to the Van Build:



Texas,
Believe me, the idea already crossed my mind.  But no can do.  First off, mysterious electrical problem which
drains battery, perhaps the ground, ...Other issues as well.   $$$  Also, my VW guy retired & moved away. Nearest competent VW mechanic in Bay Area.  AAA not sufficient for distance.  No funds for VW now.  
Every day more & more repair costs/issues to my cottage.

Gotta get out of here & MUST keep nose to grindstone. :( 

So don't tempt me!  It would be a major detour.
:rolleyes: Charlotte
 
highdesertranger said:
 . . . heads designed to run on leaded fuel MUST be rebuilt to run on unleaded.  harden seats and valves MUST be installed . . .

I have a '53 gas engine that has over 10,000 miles on running unleaded gas; no loss of compression.  Others I know have many more miles on their 'soft' valved engines.  The valves and seats will eventually need replacement but the consensus here is to do it when needed or convenient.  Or you could add a lead substitute, but that will add ~ 40¢ per gallon to your fuel bill.

johnny b said:
 . . . Continued driving and bits of the valve could actually break off, and having even the smallest bits of metal bouncing around in a cylinder is not a good thing $$$.

Second, the alcohol in today's 'crap gas' is corrosive to rubber, aluminum and plastics. Older rubber fuel lines will degrade and clog the fuel filter. Some bits in older carburetors also don't like alcohol. These issues are actually easy to fix with more modern materials...replace the fuel lines, filters and rebuild the carb . . . 

Nowadays, with crap gas having a 10% mix of alcohol 'dry gas' products are obsolete . . .

It takes a long time running an obviously sick motor before the valves start to break apart.  I know a lot of guys that are running old engines on unleaded gas and have yet to hear of valve breakage.

It is always good practice to replace all hoses, filters, fluids, and other maintenance parts when buying an older vehicle.

If you live in an area that needs a water absorbing additive the ethanol in the gas you pump has already absorbed a lot of moisture.  Ethanol additives are a cheap, prudent precaution to keep from being stranded somewhere (ask me how I know).
 
Spaceman Spiff said:
"...It is always good practice to replace all hoses, filters, fluids, and other maintenance parts when buying an older vehicle.

Ethanol additives are a cheap, prudent precaution to keep from being stranded somewhere (ask me how I know)."


Spiff, so right you are.  I   *always*  immediately replace all hoses, filters, fluids, and other maintenance parts when buying an older vehicle. 

My current Westfalia got the very best transmission fluid replacement available:  Redline.Not cheap, but worth it.

:rolleyes: Charlotte
 
[quote="Charlotte']
Theft:  The thought did cross my mind.  What sort of precautions would you suggest?  Area I am headed is
known to be "low crime"---but better safe than sorry. 
[/quote]

Low crime areas tend to make people let their guard down..LOL. My buddy had a $4000 quad stolen because he never bothered to lock it in the garage in his 'low crime area'. Nobody would want to steal my less-than-valuable vehicles, so I don't have any tips for you.

[quote="Charlotte']
On my current Westfalia, I had my mechanic install
a discreet small toggle switch in bottom of dash ashtray. 
[/quote]

Did your battery draining problem start shortly thereafter? When I was 18 I drove a '56 Belaire that the previous owner had done that trick to and I was stranded many times with a dead battery. I knew very little about electrics then and never found the problem. But I did get $300 for it towards a '66 Malibu SS 396.
 
slow2day said:
" Nobody would want to steal my less-than-valuable vehicles, so I don't have any tips for you.
(as to toggle ignition interrupter)  Did your battery draining problem start shortly thereafter? "


After I get a truck I'll figure out how to keep it theft proof...

No,  battery drain began many years later.  If I drive van at least once a week it's OK.  Otherwise,
no go.  I have a brand new/expensive Interstate battery.  1st time it drained, dealer swapped it for
another new one, as per 72 month warranty.

Much as I would like to, let's not sidetrack this truck thread for VW ailments.  Maybe later, since I
now realize there are plenty of VW folks here, I'll ask again.  Or, when I feel like putting my grey
cells to the matter I can check in over at  www.thesamba.com forum for advice.

Peace! ;) 
Charlotte
 
OK, back to old trucks. Are you still wanting a truck old enough not to have electronic ignition? I'm asking because I'm sure that the '85 Westfalia you drove to Mexico and back would have been so equipped.
 
tx2sturgis said:
"I just thought you might enjoy the videos..."


Texas, I am sure to enjoy the videos---this evening, after I remove more stock panels, drag & stack.
Wasn't castigating you for the temptation, for it is tempting to drive 'outa here for a while & meet up
with a few of the usual suspects at the RTR. 

I'd love to take a break & put this seemingly endless list of disagreeable chores out of mind for a bit. 
But like I said, no can do.

Thanks for the video link.  I'll enjoy it later after a grueling day!
;) Charlotte
 
Spaceman Spiff said:
I have a '53 gas engine that has over 10,000 miles on running unleaded gas; no loss of compression.  

Unleaded was mandated in '75. 10,000 miles over 42 years isn't much of a trial.
 
slow2day said:
OK, back to old trucks.  Are you still wanting a truck old enough not to have electronic ignition?  I'm asking because I'm sure that the '85 Westfalia you drove to Mexico and back would have been so equipped.


Slow, don't be thick! :p 

I don't see any trips SOB in my immediate future.  I'm breaking up a homestead &, essentially, moving it
to another state.  The world has changed, & so must my life with it.  A beefy pickup truck will figure strongly
in my brave new world.

I'll mourn my Westy---haven't been without one since the '60s....
:( Charlotte
 
Charlotte\ said:
OK, but here's the thing:  What I am after is a truck for towing/hauling that is old enough to have absolutely
no brains/electronic systems.  In short, a truck that might still run after a CME/EMP. 

You might want to read up on some testing done to vehicles with simulated EMP pulses. 

It's also mentioned that no known or possible CME could knock out the electronics in a vehicle, although of course the power grid could go down, making fuel hard to come by. 

https://www.futurescience.com/emp/vehicles.html
 
So a heavy (leaf spring) 3/4 or 1 Ton 4x4 Chevy, 350 cubic inch, carb, points distributor engine with hardened seats and valves, standard transmission with probably 4.10 gear differentials for around $10,000 is what you are looking for?
 
tx2sturgis said:
"You might want to read up on some testing done to vehicles with simulated EMP pulses.  ...of course the power grid could go down, making fuel hard to come by. 

https://www.futurescience.com/emp/vehicles.html


Good article, Texas.  Saved & added to others similar.  Being a homesteader & prepper,  (two separate things, but wisely combined) I am aware of fuel issues SHTF.   A complex topic, for sure, but one I pay attention to.   My idea
is to end up with a vehicle that, gas availability aside, does not require computer diagnostics or scores of
electronic parts.

Always going to be plenty of old parts to be scavenged when needed.  HDR has got a leg up on this one! ;) 
My homestead is a crucial for the delicious, home grown food, meat, dairy & good health that comes with that. 
Not to mention that it keeps me always in good physical shape! 

:rolleyes: Charlotte
 
bullfrog said:
So a heavy (leaf spring) 3/4 or 1 Ton 4x4 Chevy, 350 cubic inch, carb, points distributor engine with hardened seats and valves, standard transmission with probably 4.10 gear differentials for around $10,000 is what you are looking for?


Yep, that's about it, except don't want one ton & hope to do better than $10K. 
And it must have good vibes...
Were you once in sales?  Your summation a deal closing classic! :p
 Charlotte
 
Charlotte\ said:
My idea is to end up with a vehicle that, gas availability aside, does not require computer diagnostics or scores of
electronic parts.

The Chevy with 3 gas tanks would help in that area. The one in the bed is probably 80-100 gallons.
Just buy a lot of StaBil.
 

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