Update on Hugababy's Solar install, and highly recommended connectors

[Timmymac]

Back around Christmas, I installed a solar setup in Hulk (my mom's high-top van).&nbsp; For reference, the topic was covered in <a href="/post/Revisiting-Theos-solar-install-5580917?trail=50" rel="nofollow" target="_blank">Revisiting-Theos-solar-install</a>.&nbsp; <br>The install was one of the 18 foot flexible solar panels, a 30 amp SunForce PWM controller, and cigarette-lighter type extension cords to connect the two parts together.<br><br>Unfortunately, there were a few issues with this install:<br><ol><li>The 18 foot flexible solar panels have a no-load voltage output which can exceed 35 volts.&nbsp; The solar controller has some components (filtering electrolytic capacitors) inside that are rated for 32 volts maximum.&nbsp; As a result, when the house battery is fully charged, the capacitor exploded with a distinctive 'Pop', and spewed capacitor guts into the interior of the controller.&nbsp; The fix for this was to have mom monitor the charge current during use, and cover the solar cell to maintain a lower solar output voltage.&nbsp; Not a good solution, but it was cheap.&nbsp; Oh, and I replaced the filter cap.</li><li>The cigarette lighter extension cords were convenient, but they were small-gauge wire.&nbsp; The connectors are not very good for high current, and they work themselves loose, and heat up.&nbsp; Several connectors melted.&nbsp; Bad news.&nbsp; These connectors were chosen based on their ease of connection/disconnection, because mom's hands just aren't strong enough for the heavy trailer hitch type connectors.</li><li>Various connections were made using spade-type connectors, which tend to come loose over time.&nbsp; The wiring was undersized in places.&nbsp; I knew this at the time, and commented that I'd like to fix the wiring issues if she had problems.</li></ol>When the plug on Mom's solar panel melted, she packed it all up and came to my house for some electrical rework.&nbsp; I decided to do it up right, and hopefully the second time is a charm.&nbsp; It's definitely a robust system now.<br><br><ul><li>I replaced the SunForce 30 Amp solar controller with a <a href="http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B008KWPGAE/ref=oh_details_o00_s02_i00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1" rel="nofollow" target="_blank">SainSonic MPPT 3215RN</a>.&nbsp; This controller is rated for a solar input voltage of up to 150 volts, so mom's solar cells won't be blowing up the filter caps this time.&nbsp; Also, being an MPPT controller, it's more efficient than the Sunforce PWM controller.&nbsp; If mom decides to upgrade her solar panels, this controller will handle a significant upgrade without breaking a sweat.&nbsp; The drawback is that the new controller is about twice as expensive as the old one.</li><li>I added a <a href="http://www.amazon.com/Remote-Meter-Display-Regulator-Meters/dp/B008KWPGLI/ref=pd_bxgy_hi_text_y" rel="nofollow" target="_blank">remote meter display</a></li><li>I upgraded all of the wiring to <a href="http://www.powerwerx.com/wire-cable/red-black-zip-cord.html" rel="nofollow" target="_blank">10 gauge</a> wire minimum.&nbsp; The only remaining smaller wire is the power going to the <a href="http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0009JB7GI/ref=oh_details_o01_s00_i01?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1" rel="nofollow" target="_blank">stout</a> 12V outlets, which is about 14 gauge.</li><li>The biggest upgrade was changing all of the connectors to use A<a href="http://www.powerwerx.com/anderson-powerpoles/" rel="nofollow" target="_blank">nderson Powerpoles.</a>&nbsp; These are awesome connectors, and the ones I used are rated for 45 amps (!).&nbsp; They are easy to connect and disconnect, can be snapped together like Lego bricks, and are just the nicest connectors I've used.&nbsp; <a href="" rel="nofollow" target="_blank">Here's</a> a video showing the connectors, and searching Youtube for "anderson Powerpoles" will give lots of other videos.&nbsp; One recommendation is to use the right <a href="http://www.powerwerx.com/crimping-tools/tricrimp-crimping-powerpole-contacts.html" rel="nofollow" target="_blank">Crimping Tool</a> to crimp the connector onto the wire.</li></ul><br>Unfortunately, I didn't get any pictures while I was doing the install.&nbsp; I'll try to get some to add, if the weather cools down enough before mom heads out of here.&nbsp; I was sorta ok with the previous install, but I'm confident in the current configuration.&nbsp;<br><br> I have a feeling the weak link is the flexible solar panel, because it's flexible.&nbsp; If/when if it fails, I have a pigtail staged in the system which can be connected to a replacement solar panel (probably one of the cool 'suitcase' sets that Bob is selling.&nbsp; I played with the one in Katie Two-Knives system, and it's a nice solar set.<br><br>I don't know if Mom is going to make it to RTR, it depends on when the weather cools down.&nbsp; If you see her, ask her to show you her solar.&nbsp; You might get some good ideas from it.&nbsp; If you have any questions about her system, just post them here.<br><br>Hmm, previewing my posting, the links aren't showing in blue... If you don't see blue links, just hover over anyplace I mention the name of something I've added.&nbsp; I put in links for most of the stuff.

 

[Timmymac]

Here's some pictures showing the finished installation...&nbsp; I didn't unroll the solar panel to get pictures, because it was &gt;110F at the van, here in Chandler today.&nbsp; <img src="/images/boards/smilies/eek.gif" class="emoticon bbc_img"><br><br>The first picture (meter and outlets) shows the 12VDC and 110VAC outlets on Mom's counter-top.&nbsp; <br>The 12V multioutlet on the left is fused at 30 amps using an automotive fuse on the wall behind the cabinet.&nbsp; This is a really well-built multioutlet, and I highly recommend it.&nbsp; Plugged into the 12V outlets are a LED light strip, and a small rechargeable flashlight.&nbsp; Since the plugin is just above the side door of the van, it's very convenient.&nbsp; The LED strip can be un-bungied, and mounted outside the van for lighting outside at night. Another advantage is that the flashlight always goes back on the charger when it's not in use, so it's easy to find.<br> The Belkin 110VAC multioutlet strip is plugged into the inverter (you'll see the end of it's cable in a later picture).&nbsp; When Mom wants to use something that needs AC power, she just reaches back behind the cabinet and turns on the inverter. <br>The meter on the right shows status of the Charge Controller, Solar panels, and the battery.&nbsp; As you can see, the battery voltage is a little low right now...<br><a href="/file?id=1583483" rel="lightbox" target="_blank"><img src="http://files.websitetoolbox.com/82529/thumb/1583483" class="bbc_img"></a>&nbsp;<br><br>The next picture (top of inverter and cabling) shows the wiring going down behind the cabinet with the Belkin multioutlet plugged into the inverter.&nbsp; The inverter power switch is visible on the top of the inverter.&nbsp; Above the inverter are the fuseholder for the 12V multioutlet, and a spare cable for the solar panel.&nbsp;<br> <a href="/file?id=1583489" rel="lightbox" target="_blank"><img src="http://files.websitetoolbox.com/82529/thumb/1583489" class="bbc_img"></a><br><br>Next we can see the bottom of the controller and the inverter.&nbsp; You can see where the 6AWG wires come up through the floor of the van.&nbsp; Directly under the floor are mounted a pair of Walmart batteries.&nbsp; There is a weatherproof 180 amp circuit breaker mounted at the batteries for catastrophe purposes.&nbsp; The wires run through the floor using standard conduit which is completely sealed with Silicone sealant.&nbsp; The positive wire goes to the 140A breaker, and then to the inverter.&nbsp; I'm using the inverter terminals as my power distribution point.&nbsp; <br>At the front of the picture, you can see the 4 wires at the bottom of the solar controller. The wiring connectors in the bottom of the charge controller are sized for huge wires, so I tinned the ends of the wires in the controller.&nbsp; Yes, the black wire end shows copper, but it's really tinned up inside the controller housing <img rel="lightbox" src="/images/boards/smilies/smile.gif" class="bbc_img"> . These wires come down to a hard-mounted connector at the bottom of the picture.&nbsp; The reason I installed a disconnect for the solar controller is so that when the solar is not charging, the controller can be disconnected to avoid draining the battery unnecessarily.&nbsp; The connector is hard mounted to the cabinet to avoid physically stressing the cable connections on the bottom of the controller every time you connect and disconnect the cable. &nbsp; The flat grey cable goes to the remote display for the charge controller (the green display in the first picture).<br><a href="/file?id=1583490" rel="lightbox" target="_blank"><img src="http://files.websitetoolbox.com/82529/thumb/1583490" class="bbc_img"></a>&nbsp;<br><br>Here's the MPPT cable connected and disconnected, and the wire for the solar panel going out the side door of Hulk, and a closeup of the end of the solar panel connection.&nbsp; The top wire is connected to the house battery (actually, it's connected to the inverter terminals, which are connected through the 140 amp breaker, and then to the batteries).&nbsp; The bottom wire is for the solar panel connection.&nbsp; This wire goes out the bottom of the door during solar use.&nbsp; When the solar is not being used, the wires are just tucked neatly into the cubby under the controller.&nbsp; <br><br><a href="/file?id=1583497" rel="lightbox" target="_blank"><img src="http://files.websitetoolbox.com/82529/thumb/1583497" class="bbc_img"></a>&nbsp;<a href="/file?id=1583500" rel="lightbox" target="_blank"><img src="http://files.websitetoolbox.com/82529/thumb/1583500" class="bbc_img"></a>&nbsp;<a href="/file?id=1583502" rel="lightbox" target="_blank"><img src="http://files.websitetoolbox.com/82529/thumb/1583502" class="bbc_img"></a>&nbsp;<a href="/file?id=1583505" rel="lightbox" target="_blank"><img src="http://files.websitetoolbox.com/82529/thumb/1583505" class="bbc_img"></a>&nbsp;<br><br>Mom is using an 18 foot long flexible solar panel, which rolls up and stores in a canvas bag.&nbsp; I'm not convinced of the durability of this panel, so I included a pigtail with Anderson connectors pre-wired.&nbsp; If she needs to get a new panel, this pigtail can be wired onto the panel, and then the panel can just be wired into her existing system.&nbsp; This picture also shows more clearly the fuseholder for the 12V outlets.&nbsp; This is the most likely fuse to blow in the system, so I used a standard automotive blade fuse, which can be found at any autoparts store.<br><a href="/file?id=1583510" rel="lightbox" target="_blank"><img src="http://files.websitetoolbox.com/82529/thumb/1583510" class="bbc_img"></a>&nbsp;<br><br>General comments on the installation:<br><ol><li>When I was first installing this system, I tried various connectors (trailer hitch, Molex, etc) but in order to get the current rating I wanted, the connectors were large and bulky and difficult. The connector under the MPPT has a total current capacity of about 175 amps, and yet it plugs and unplugs with less force than a wall plug.&nbsp; Anderson PowerPole connectors absolutely rock. Make sure you use the correct crimping tool, when installing connectors onto wire.</li><li>The solar charge controller I used has the capability to monitor the load current, but I didn't use that.&nbsp; It's only designed for 20amp loads.&nbsp; Instead all of my loads are run to the inverter terminals.&nbsp; Silly design.&nbsp; The connectors are for huge (4AWG) wire but the controller is only rated for a 30amp solar charge current, and for a 20amp load current.&nbsp; Again, silly design.</li><li>Instead of using one long cord between the van and the solar panel, I provided mom with several shorter cables (two 10 foot, and a 6 foot).&nbsp; These are much easier to handle and store, and she doesn't end up with a big pile of excess cable at the solar panel.</li><li>For routing wires, use Ty-Raps and the adhesive mounts.&nbsp; It makes life easier.&nbsp; Use lots of ty-raps, they are cheap.</li><li>Whenever routing wires through the body of the van (in this install, it's the 6AWG wires to the batteries), *always* use a grommet to prevent the wires from rubbing on metal and shorting to ground.&nbsp; Always mount a high capacity fuse or circuit breaker at the battery itself.&nbsp; That way, if the wires do get shorted, the battery fuse will blow.&nbsp; Electrical fires are a very bad thing!&nbsp;</li><li>If you're not sure of how to use a crimping tool, soldering iron, the differences between 8AWG and 16AWG, how to calculate fuse ratings for the things you plan to plug in, etc., don't just jump in!&nbsp; Ask questions on the forum, watch YouTube videos, and make sure that what you want can be done safely.&nbsp; Remember, as a vandweller, you're talking about wiring your house.&nbsp; It's not rocket science, but a mistake can ruin more than just your day.&nbsp; Be safe, and get help!&nbsp; You don't want to end up like this guy (warning, video contains understandably strong language) <a rel="nofollow" href="" target="_blank">[link]</a></li></ol><br><br>

 

[travlinman and wife]

one thing about thees type connectors if you put one close to the battery's anu have a problem you can very quickly disconnect by giving it a quick pull. thees are the only type I use. you can also get them at forklift parts supply