Tucson Mobile Mechanic/Info Needed - 1984 Chevy 350 Engine Tuned Back In

[WendyD]

I am excited to have been directed by Bob, to forums of Bob, because, and I quote, "[font=wf_segoe-ui_normal,]The guys on my forum are brilliant at putting their heads together and figuring things out." Awesome!!![/font]


I have a 1978 Chevy G30 Van chassis 26' class c RV with a 1984 350 engine replacement.
Three years ago, after traveling successfully to Florida and back, I had the 33 gallon fuel tank replaced, due to rust issues.
Unfortunately, this mechanic decided to "fix" what he considered to be too high an idle by adjusting carb, distributor, and installing vacuum hoses that were not installed at engine replacement, etc., etc. 
It was when I reattached my trailer, that these adjustments went horribly wrong. It wasn't able to accelerate further than 25 mph. A manual and electric high flow fuel pump, steel fuel line replacement, more adjusting, etc., etc.......... :angel:

I am thinking I need direction to a qualified mobile mechanic in Tucson, with passionate follow through skills.

Thank you for any and all info you can share,

WendyD

 

[user 423]

Not to be a smart^ss but how big and heavy is the trailer?

 

[WendyD]

Not to be a smart^ss but how big and heavy is the trailer?

The trailer is a 6 x 8 and not nearly as heavy as when traveling to and from Florida. It is a good question.

 

[user 423]

^
From your description it seemed that the trouble started immediately after trying to pull a trailer so I wondered if it was a heavy trailer that would cause your transmission to slip.

Good luck with your search...

 

[highdesertranger]

yes you need someone that knows what they are doing. are you saying you are running both a mechanic and electric fuel pump? if so big no, no. highdesertranger

 

[B and C]

Look at the trailer too as that is when you noticed the problem. If it runs like it used to without the trailer....

When was the last time the bearings were repacked? After that long trip to Florida (overloaded?), maybe the wheel bearings are bad. Jack up trailer and spin wheel by hand. There should not be any roughness and very little wiggle.

 

[jacks18614]

One issue (along with a 100 others) is the accelerator pump in the Q-Jet is shot do to age and ethanol fuel mixture. Good luck finding some senior citizen auto tech that remembers how to rebuild a Q-Jet. Bolting on a Holley spreadbore replacement would be the best bet IF the issue is carb related.

 

[highdesertranger]

interesting how did you come to the conclusion the accelerator pump is shot. replacing the Q-jet for a Holley is a downgrade IMO. highdesertranger

 

[jacks18614]

My 1986 C-10 4.3V6-4V had a similar issue and I have an associates degree in Auto Tech from the Pennsylvania College of Technology class of 1978.

 

[WendyD]

^
From your description it seemed that the trouble started immediately after trying to pull a trailer so I wondered if it was a heavy trailer that would cause your transmission to slip.

Good luck with your search...

Thank you.

 

[WendyD]

yes you need someone that knows what they are doing.  are you saying you are running both a mechanic and electric fuel pump?  if so big no,  no.  highdesertranger

No, not running both pumps. The mechanical was replaced. When that failed to fix problem, the electric was installed, bypassing the manual.

Thank you

 

[WendyD]

Look at the trailer too as that is when you noticed the problem.  If it runs like it used to without the trailer....

When was the last time the bearings were repacked?  After that long trip to Florida (overloaded?), maybe the wheel bearings are bad.  Jack up trailer and spin wheel by hand.  There should not be any roughness and very little wiggle.

Trailer is good.

Thank you

 

[WendyD]

One issue (along with a 100 others) is the accelerator pump in the Q-Jet is shot do to age and ethanol fuel mixture. Good luck finding some senior citizen auto tech that remembers how to rebuild a Q-Jet. Bolting on a Holley spreadbore replacement would be the best bet IF the issue is carb related.

Thank you

 

[WendyD]

My 1986 C-10 4.3V6-4V had a similar issue and I have an associates degree in Auto Tech from the Pennsylvania College of Technology class of 1978.

Thank you

 

[WendyD]

Were you able to determine what the problem was?

Guy

If the process could be reversed, i.e. remove vacuum hoses, readjust two screws at carburetor, and readjust distributor and so on......that may be the answer...just need the willing mechanic.

Thank you

 

[tripper]

The two screws on the Quadrajet are fine tuning the fuel-air ratio during idle. They should not affect performance while driving down the road. The Quadrajet is a very nice carb and better than Holley carbs for normal driving and very easy to rebuild btw. All the items you described the mechanic doing are all very simple adjustments and should be very easy to adjust. Why a mobile mechanic vs a fixed mechanic, which should have more and better equipment available? A 350 chevy/quadrajet is one of the best known/easiest combos to work on with inexpensive replacement parts.

Does the RV do fine without the trailer? Did you check to see if the trailer brakes are stuck on?

 

[WendyD]

The two screws on the Quadrajet are fine tuning the fuel-air ratio during idle. They should not affect performance while driving down the road.  The Quadrajet is a very nice carb and better than Holley carbs for normal driving and very easy to rebuild btw. All the items you described the mechanic doing are all very simple adjustments and should be very easy to adjust.  Why a mobile mechanic vs a fixed mechanic, which should have more and better equipment available? A 350 chevy/quadrajet is one of the best known/easiest combos to work on with inexpensive replacement parts.

Does the RV do fine without the trailer? Did you check to see if the trailer brakes are stuck on?

Fuel/air mixture, vacuum hoses, timing, idle and advancement for weight allowance. Entire fuel replacement parts and system inspection and readjustments. Master Mechanic Wanted!

My brakes were affected, as well as, acceleration past 25 mph without glugging. It would usually recoup as I let off the gas, as long as I was not accelerating. 


I am needing a mobile mechanic, currently, because the last mechanic did a short driveby look-see, and unhooked a few items on the day he was diagnosed with bronchitis/flu. I also tried a recommended fixed shop that put a hole in my trailer and didn't fix it. I may need to get it to an actual big name rv engine mechanic, as opposed to a chevy engine mechanic...


RV does fine without the trailer, which the engine is currently tuned. It is a 6 x 8 and it does not have brakes.

Thank you

 

[user 423]

How far did you drive (recently) with the trailer hooked up?  

"RV does fine without the trailer"

So you're saying that the engine sounds fine (no misfire) and you can drive at highway speeds WITHOUT the trailer?

If so the problem has to be the trailer. If the brakes aren't hung up then it's too heavy along with the substantial weight of your motorhome.  

I do wonder if the trans is slipping when you are trying to pull everything up to speed...

 

[jacks18614]

With a 40 year old chassis there is a good chance the frame is not in the best shape. Now hitch a trailer with who knows how much tongue weight then apply the fulcrum effect with a massive overhang and there is a fair chance the emergency brake cables are being stretched to the point where the brake shoes are in contact with the rear drums.

 

[WendyD]

How far did you drive (recently) with the trailer hooked up?  

"RV does fine without the trailer"

So you're saying that the engine sounds fine (no misfire) and you can drive at highway speeds WITHOUT the trailer?

If so the problem has to be the trailer. If the brakes aren't hung up then it's too heavy along with the substantial weight of your motorhome.  

I do wonder if the trans is slipping when you are trying to pull everything up to speed...

I drove down the block recently, with the trailer, no transmission slipping, until I hit 20 mph after a block or so, at which point, it gluggs like it can't get enough gas, or air mixture is incorrect.
I was able to drive at highway speeds without the trailer, yes. However, I was able to pull a heavier trailer prior to these adjustments, and after fuel tank replacement.

Thank you