The mitsubishi... It's time.

[minimotos95]

Okay the marine battery couldn't be saved... well I didn’t want to take the gamble on buying new acid when it's just a chap marine battery. the van's starting battery seems to be okay, won't know until I can put the load of the starter on it.

Dropped the crank off at a machine shop today he said a few days if it polishes out nice and if it needs turned it will be cash and more time, as I expected.


new stuffs:
New to me 30a solar charge controller

porta-potti, not sure if I am keeping this, as it's big and according to people who have had the a pain to deal with but I have a tendency of using buckets for storage(not good in an emergency when your poo bucket is full of other stuff.) and I know I won't be storing stuff in this thing.

coleman 1850w generator, probably just sell this, if I am going to carry a generator it will be something like a 1000w yamaha

Inverter I've had for years, dug it out and it has no problem powering my LED TV or laptop, sweet.

 

[ZoNiE]

FYI, those balance shafts can go in 180* out of phase and look normal. Not fun.

 

[highdesertranger]

yes they can zonie, yes they can. highdesertranger

 

[minimotos95]

Yup, very easy to do if you don't line up every mark from the oil pump gears to the crank pulley during assembly.
IMO balance shafts are nothing but a liability on 4 cylinder mitsubishi motors, they are never gong in this block as long as I own it. Even if I wanted for whatever reason to keep the balance shafts I doubt I could after that shaft was slamming around without a bearing.

 

[highdesertranger]

so you are not going to install the balance shaft? highdesertranger

 

[minimotos95]

Correct, both shafts are being deleted, I have a new OEM Mitsubishi stub shaft, plug, bearings and even the spacer from the 4g61t, everything needed to do a balance shaft elimination that looks and performs like it came out of the factory that way.

The stub shaft replaces the balance shaft goes into the oil pump, the plug blocks where the other shaft came through the front case, new bearings are installed to block the oil passages of that shaft and the spacer cleans up the elimination while shaving some mass from the rotating assembly

 

[highdesertranger]

may I ask how you plan on balancing the rotating assembly without the counter shafts. highdesertranger

 

[minimotos95]

I do plan on balancing the piston/ring/rod/bearing assemblies if I can get my hands on a good scale but it's not necessary as the balance shafts are not for the actual balance of the rotating assembly like some engines, purely to combat the natural harmonics(buzzing) of an inline 4 engine.

 

[masterplumber]

Sounds like the same reason Dodge used a dual mass flywheel in my truck, the general public doesn't want to hear or feel what they're engines are doing. The trouble is, those kind of "fixes" usually lead to other issues. Between that and the weak slave cylinder to reduce petal pressure I ended up replacing the entire clutch system and flywheel at 60,000 miles due to excessive slippage. It sounds and feels like an earlier generation diesel now, but I'm ok with that, and can tow with confidence again. Sounds like you're on the right track to build a long lasting motor, and probably gain a smidgin more power in the process by having less rotating mass.

 

[wagoneer]

I have a Toyota version of that van 87 LE and use it for the flea market amazing amount of space, just tuned her up 157k running well. Too bad not many diesels were exported. Following your build thanks

 

[minimotos95]

Love the size of these vans, outside the length and width is on par if not smaller than the newer civics while inside the cargo area is still 4x8 ish plus a roomy cockpit. Nowadays you can get a 4x4 diesel Delica or Hi-Ace imported but at a minimum of $5000, most bringing closer to $10k, it's absurd for a 25 year old van, even if it is a diesel.


New toys, bicycle to replace motorcycle, Specialized single speed 26" hybrid, really light and has disc brakes. I am out of shape though...

Char broil X200 grill2go

Buddy heater, working as a TV stand at the moment. I haven't felt the need for a heater in my van here in Colorado but I figure if I spend winter in the dakotas or MT where temps actually dip below zero without BS like "wind chill" factored in this thing might make it a lot easier.

Anyway nothing is going quite as planned.
Crank was polished found a guy locally who did it for $30 and turn around time of 2 or 3 days, still in factory specs I order a re-ring kit after asking the seller if the rings are cast or chrome. re-ring kit arrives and they are NPR 300 series rings, meaning the top ring is chrome so I can't install without honing. I am against honing unless the motor bore was out of spec. My deadline is tight so I say screw it and put it back together with the old rings.

Get the motor in the van all assembled, get everything hooked up, easy peasy.

No spark, FML, I had this same problem last time I tore into it, last time it was just a loose connector. So I wiggled and cleaned all the connections relating to the coil and dizzy. A mechanic came and cleaned the cap and rotor recommending I order new ones. So I did along with new plug wires that I had forgot to order. Should be here Monday.

So as we sit. no spark, needle on the tach isn't moving. There's voltage from the coil to the dizzy but nothing coming out of the dizzy. I have not checked the fuses yet as it is a PITA without being able to open the drivers side door but will check them soon.
To make matters worse mice have been inside my dash and ate paperwork in my glovebox so there's a possibility that this is a symptom of that. I have never been able to find my ECU but there's a chance it's somewhere under the dash where they could have got to it's harness.

 

[minimotos95]

Ordered an Ignition control module per a recommendation from the Mitsubishi forum as well because the symptoms fit perfectly. Wasn't able to disassemble the dizzy to install a new ICM, just replacing the cap, rotor and wires didn't give me spark so I said screw it, ordered a whole new dizzy and a coil too just in case.

Those parts should be here tomorrow or Tuesday, my schedule dictates that this van has to be road trip worthy in 2 weeks(ha, yeah right) so money is of little concern at the moment because if it's not I may have to pay to store it.
Anyway...
Was able to get some crap set up on the ladder rack though.
Bike mount, Delta locking QR fork mount, BH1002N

bumper jacks: going to use U bolts and wing nuts not the hose clamps holding them now

Still plenty of room for solar and my snowboard has to go somewhere up there

I got rid of the genny and thermoelectric cooler and got a little coleman extreme cooler.

 

[LeeRevell]

"Dizzy"?  I have utterly no idea what that is?  :huh:

 

[Milk Hauler]

"Dizzy"?  I have utterly no idea what that is?  :huh:

Slang for Distributor

 

[Milk Hauler]

If you can video the initial start and post a link to it, that would be awesome. I have a wierd fondness for cars that have brought back to life after sitting. I especially like cold weather starting of locomotives. [emoji578]

 

[SoulRaven]

I am just curious as to your reasoning on putting the old rings back in. Since the rest of the engine parts were worn so badly aren't you concerned that the old rings are also worn as bad? And do you think that since they are old that they may break or start the engine smoking or not to have compression? I didn't think that honing took very much off the cylinder walls, it just puts in a hatch mark pattern to help seat the new rings. Am I right about this?

 

[Baloo]

They sell stones to re-crosshatch your cylinder walls with a cordless drill. The crosshatching needs to be there to aid in carrying oil around the pistons during operation and initial break in. Did you check the ring gap to determine if they were still good? As long as the gap was within spec and the cylinder walls had some crosshatching left, it should be fine.

 

[minimotos95]

Honing the stock bore takes enough off the walls that once the walls are worn back smooth they are out of spec significantly and you have to bore it out, at least that's the case with motorcycles. The g64b/4g64 doesn't have much room to bore, I think you can only go 2 sizes over before the block is junk and you are stuck hunting down another block they haven't made in 25 years. It had good compression across the board before hand, the rings weren't damaged and didn't strike me as brittle. What I wanted to do was put the new rings in but plated rings like what I was sent won't break in on a smooth bore like iron rings will and If I had given in and got the block honed I would be even further behind where I am now.... Oh well, I was planning on tearing it apart again when the situation allows me to anyway for more giddy up so I can at least pass mopeds and air cooled VWs.

I only checked gap on a couple of compression rings, they were good. I'm not too concerned if she blows a little blue smoke, I've used worse rings in worse bores and got great compression.
Auto parts stores even rent the honing tools if you want to do it yourself. Nobody, not even me, is touching my bores without the proper torque plate.

For sure Mike, I will try to remember to set my phone to record. I wanted to do that for myself anyways but now I have motivation not to forget

 

[minimotos95]

My plans may well be SoL and I may be stuck in Colorado even longer.... There's also a chance that the park I've been staying at is closing next month, and evicting everyone. Maybe I could find a job in OR and stay in a tent, pay for dog boarding and van storage in CO for a month or two while saving up again for the van and take a bus or bicycle back to CO.. I don't know, dogs complicate everything.

Still no spark or tach, I'm seeking professional help, which may be challenging to find someone who knows these vans so I will settle for any shade tree mechanic who can tell me what jet valves are and do.

I'll also try my hand at pulling codes with a light tomorrow.

 

[highdesertranger]

minimotos, what else on those vehicles control spark? ECM, CPS, oil pressure switch, collision switch, fuses, circuit breakers, was there a sensor on that balance shaft you eliminated? so much to consider. this is exactly why I hate newer vehicles. is it not sparking at all? or is the spark timing wrong? did you check to see if the dizzy is getting 12v? can you jump the dizzy to get 12v to it? is there a fuel pressure-ignition correlation? I know Hondas have a wet dream dizzy controller that there's no way to check for being good or bad and is very expensive. highdesertranger