The Conversion of "Freedom" , our permanent bus home...

Clan Graham · Aug 22, 2013

Realizing I am going to be completely converting a bus into our permanent home, I decided to do a VERY in-depth build thread. Hopefully it can help someone else, as new and lost feeling as I was/am LOL. My final goal ?  To make a bus be just as comfortable and beautiful, as one costing many times more !   My success or failure will be documented here for all to see. Yikes ! And here is what we are starting with ... This 1985 Blue Bird 78 Passenger, rear engine CAT 3208, automatic trans bus looks pretty rough, but it is in really good condition for getting it in a straight trade for my now useless Yukon and small trailer. <img rel="lightbox" src="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v112/SRTBlue/My bus is better than Yos/P1100831_zps2bda374b.jpg" class="bbc_img"> <img rel="lightbox" src="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v112/SRTBlue/My bus is better than Yos/P1100834_zps972862c7.jpg" class="bbc_img"> <img rel="lightbox" src="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v112/SRTBlue/My bus is better than Yos/P1100827_zpse050b98e.jpg" class="bbc_img"> And so yes ... There is definitely a power washer and a re-paint in the future ! And here is the interior we have to work with... <img rel="lightbox" src="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v112/SRTBlue/My bus is better than Yos/P1100835_zps8964babc.jpg" class="bbc_img"> <img rel="lightbox" src="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v112/SRTBlue/My bus is better than Yos/P1100837_zpsd7dcad25.jpg" class="bbc_img"> <img rel="lightbox" src="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v112/SRTBlue/My bus is better than Yos/P1100842_zps90900ae4.jpg" class="bbc_img"> <img rel="lightbox" src="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v112/SRTBlue/My bus is better than Yos/P1100843_zps6cd9a437.jpg" class="bbc_img"> <img rel="lightbox" src="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v112/SRTBlue/My bus is better than Yos/P1100844_zps4c55db27.jpg" class="bbc_img"> <img rel="lightbox" src="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v112/SRTBlue/My bus is better than Yos/P1100845_zps39805887.jpg" class="bbc_img"> <img rel="lightbox" src="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v112/SRTBlue/My bus is better than Yos/P1100849_zpse2a170e0.jpg" class="bbc_img"> And is these badges mean anything to you, here is what they show. <img rel="lightbox" src="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v112/SRTBlue/My bus is better than Yos/P1100840_zps8b023225.jpg" class="bbc_img"> <img rel="lightbox" src="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v112/SRTBlue/My bus is better than Yos/P1100838_zps611f9769.jpg" class="bbc_img"> And around the outside, we have good storage. <img rel="lightbox" src="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v112/SRTBlue/My bus is better than Yos/P1100832_zps2175afef.jpg" class="bbc_img"> Two rough looking 8D batteries ... <img rel="lightbox" src="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v112/SRTBlue/My bus is better than Yos/P1100828_zps005c1e50.jpg" class="bbc_img"> <img rel="lightbox" src="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v112/SRTBlue/My bus is better than Yos/OurBus7_zpsf1bcfb7f.jpg" class="bbc_img"> Stay Tuned ... We will be painting the interior soon !

ilovemyvan · Aug 22, 2013

Hi Clan, I am so glad you will be posting your progress. Your posts bring back so many wonderful memories. Thanks Nicole

wagoneer · Aug 22, 2013

OK let the butterfly emerge, a challenge to say the least. Have fun with this. All the best.

whitewolf · Aug 22, 2013

I wish I had that kind of gumption.

wagoneer · Aug 22, 2013

Fool-hearty or gumption Your mind can play tricks on you, what's the worst scenario? All the fool-hearty things I have done and money lost, No regrets. No pain no gain live and learn so on so on, Take a chance on love.

dfunkt · Aug 22, 2013

Is there any chance you took the name Freedom from the movie K-PAX when Prot tells the guy with OCD to look for the blue bird of freedom?

cygvan · Aug 22, 2013

hey nice bus...i cant wait to see what you have in store for it. those 8D's are monsters, they look like AGM. any idea on their condition/performance yet? also, my friend and i have been researching soda blasting. we are restoring a 1981/82 Sea Nymph Fishing Machine FM161...its all aluminum and we have stripped the entire inside. we want to recondition the the metal and remove all of the gunk/glue/and foam (plan to replace) and his pressure washer has really come in handy with the exception of the really stubborn stuff. we saw a bunch of you tube videos on soda blastin and were impressed. it uses baking soda and you can either shoot it dry with air compressor and proper attachment or shoot it wet with proper attachment and pressure washer. we are going with wet as the media disappears basically. it can be set for different strength and as the videos will show you can remove the paint from a coke can without damaging the can! i think it is a very cheap and environmentally safe way to strip paint. the baking soda will give the pressure washer method some added oomph. not quite sand blasting but better than water alone. perhaps this is something youd be interested in.

Clan Graham · Aug 22, 2013

Hi cygvan, I only know the batteries crank the bus easily. But other than that, I do not know exactly to tell just what I have. And for pressure washing ... The white paint seems to be poor quality house paint, maybe even latex. I do not want to strip of the yellow, as it seems to be just fine. I was planning on simply stripping the white off, then wiping thoroughly with paint thinner, and painting over the yellow.

cygvan · Aug 22, 2013

ah ok then that paint should clean off easily then. i was looking at the photos again and its truly amazing how much room that thing has...one could build that taj mahal in there lol

Patrick46 · Aug 22, 2013

Ooooooo....it's an All-American!!! <IMG class="emoticon bbc_img" title="Thumb - :thumb:" src="/images/boards/smilies/thumb.gif"> I'm gonna enjoy watching this come together!!

Clan Graham · Aug 23, 2013

Hello everyone ... Kayaker  ... I was not aware of the movie you referred to. I named it "Freedom", because I finally feel like we will be free at last. Free from the rat race and mad scramble ... Free from worrying about insane monthly bills. LOL ... It is kind of funny. But some people are ooing and ahhing over the bus ... and EVERYONE knows way more about it than I do !  <img src="/images/boards/smilies/crazy.gif" class="emoticon bbc_img" title="Crazy - :crazy:">   I have no clue what good or bad, it being an All American even means ! I was not even aware it was considered a truly big bus. I just traded for the first thing that seemed a good candidate for living in. I am getting ready to start drilling out the thousands of rivets in the metal panels under all of the side windows ... I just need this answered first : <a rel="nofollow" href="/post/Must-it-have-the-side-panels-6491336?pid=1279239289#post1279239289" target="_blank">https://vanlivingforum.com/post/Must-it-have-the-side-panels-6491336?pid=1279239289#post1279239289</a> Then I can start snapping photos of the side wall progress. Maybe as early as next week !  I am going to attempt to sell my wood flooring, and use those funds for the Interior paint.  This will be a rather slow build thread .... as money is non-existent at this point. I hope I can have it finished by January though.

Clan Graham · Aug 23, 2013

And there is this good information ... I called Great Stuff today. They told me NONE of their products will work properly inside large enclosed spaces, and is NOT for insulation at all. Only crack sealing. They said it will NOT cure, unless sprayed in 1" layers, with no thick spots, and allowed to dry 8 hrs between layers. And the uncured chemical WILL eat metal away. It would take a year to fill just the side walls below the windows ! I am currently seeking out expanding spray foams designed for large cavity filling. That is, which is not completely cost prohibitive.

stude53 · Aug 24, 2013

Clan Graham, I have seen horror stories about using spray foam inside metal vehicles, due to the uncontrollable expansion of foam that can distort and cause ripples or bulges in the metal. A better alternative, I think, is ridged foam sheets that can be cut and trimmed to fit in the vertical walls and across the ceiling, then skinned over with the material of choice. Just an opinion. Your own research may provide better answers. Bob

Clan Graham · Aug 24, 2013

Hi Bob ... after the phone call I made yesterday, I fully agree with you. They told me the expansion is not really the enemy, but the fact it does not fully cure in enclosed spaces, is what makes the still wet chemicals start eating into the metal !  A disaster for sure ! The ONLY reason I was looking into spray foam, is ease of installation. You see, I am somewhat crippled. My right ankle is about shot, and the less I am on it, the better. I also was attempting to avoid drilling out thousands of rivets too ! LOL I would like to ask a question, I have not found addressed in what I have read so far .... I know the foam board is supposed to have an air gap between it and the outer wall of the bus. I am not sure just how people are attaching or installing the foam board inside the bus walls. Can they simply be glued to the outer wall, once the inner skin has been removed ? Or are they glued down at all ? Thanks

rokguy · Aug 25, 2013

Hi Clan, This will help mechanically. Those ID plates you posted are gold for identifying your buses running gear and chasing parts you will need in the future. Most buses and heavy trucks share similar name brand parts. ie Rockwell/Meritor, Fuller/Roadranger, Allison,  Spicer etc. The plate tells me your front and rear axles are Rockwell / Meritor built. Check for cracks under the steering kingpins. If you haven't already had the running gear inspected by a Diesel mech I would do that first while the interior is stripped. I would hate to see your bus/motorhome grenade itself (like another forum users did 6 miles down the road) so now's a good time to do it Engine wise the Caterpillar 3208 V8 is a great reliable runner but it is critical that the coolant be analyzed to determine it is not eating the cylinder liners from the inside out. These engines are known for this and do not have replaceable liners like other big Diesels. Once gone they are a throwaway as the engine block doesn't have much metal for bore reconditioning them. Is it Turbo charged? Good 3208 info can be found on the Bluebird Owners Group forum. It is extremely important to have those air brakes checked for leaks and adjustment. You should NOT be able to here any air leaking after the engine has been turned off. Attached is a helpful link to Meritor/Rockwell PDF parts guide. <a href="http://www.meritor.com/_layouts/images/arvinmeritor/downloads/Product Identification Guide.pdf" rel="nofollow" target="_blank">http://www.meritor.com/_layouts/images/arvinmeritor/downloads/Product Identification Guide.pdf</a> From the other pics posted of you drivers compartment the gauges, switches, steering wheel and controls all share common  Kenworth/Peterbilt parts. Even the air vents are classic KW ! The interior pressed steel panels void after removal can be filled with insulation like the foam board or no allergy Poly batts ( like what I'm using at the moment) and replacing the pressed steel with plywood instead or screw/glue the ply over it. Ply a good insulator in itself. Unlike vans and cars based RV's, heavy vehicle stuff is straight forward with common parts available throughout the U.S. Don't be afraid to ask suppliers for help. I hope this was helpful to you. Geoff

Patrick46 · Aug 25, 2013

"  I am going to attempt to sell my wood flooring, and use those funds for the Interior paint. " Why are you X-neighing the wood flooring idea?? I love this stuff! As for paint and other building materials....do you have a local Habitat for Humanity Resale Store anywhere nearby?? It's a great source for all things building...and I LOVE recycling.

Clan Graham · Aug 25, 2013

Wow Geoff ... that is some great info !!!  I am so happy to read this! One thing I do need, is windshield wiper assemblies. Someone removed the original ones. Motors and arms ! LOL Just yesterday, I saw a socket on the side of my bus that is wired up. I am now wondering if someone has wired the bus for electricity, since this seems to be a socket for hooking up to an RV park. I am definitely going to have it checked for the things you mentioned. The good news is, this bus was purchased and owned by the lead mechanic at a school's bus barn. He had been in that position for almost 30 years. He had started to convert it  ( removing the seats, adding 8d batteries, adding grey, black, and water tanks underneath, and POSSIBLY wiring it for electricity ) ... He had worked on the bus, to keep as his own. So it SHOULD be well maintained and cared for. Guess I will know soon enough !

Clan Graham · Aug 25, 2013

Hey Partick46 ... I am still going to use wood flooring. Just a different color than this. This floor I own is a light blonde color. Just too bland for our tastes ... IF I can trade or sell for it that is. I will check with our local Habitat for Humanity, and see what is up <img src="/images/boards/smilies/wink.gif" class="emoticon bbc_img" title="Wink -

">

rokguy · Aug 25, 2013

Yeh, On the foam board thing I think you would be better using 9mm (3/8) plywood. Are you going to leave all the windows in place?  There are two bus conversion ways to go... the cheaper option is to leave the windows as is, black paint over the ones you want blanked off (from inside) this is where walls, showers, cupboards are placed. Then lining the interior in plywood (either painted or coated) The rest of the windows you want to use you can ambulance tint. This will give your home a more steathy bus look to the outside. Given all the windows still look the same from outside. Looks just like a regular bus with the windows tinted The dearer option is to remove all the windows (like Leftcoasters rig somewhere on the forum) either rivet or weld new steel sheet to the outside. ply lining to the inside. Then working out where your bathroom, walls etc are placed and cutting out window opening where required. Geoff

cygvan · Aug 25, 2013

clan...dont be afraid of the blue foam board Pactiv (expanded polystyrene) from lowes or the same in pink Owens Corning from Home Depot. it is very easy to work with. a single 4x8 sheet might cover 16 linear feet if the height of the space under the windows is 2'. so its economical since its only about $15 for 1" thick which gives R 5.0 you dont need airspace really...what needs airspace is reflectix and even that is only to increase its R value. reflectix stops direct thermal transfer so applying it without airspace like a sandwhich its still a good idea. when you remove the panels, check all of the metal for corrosion and treat accordingly, several different methods. then apply the EPS (or a polyisocyanurate product which sometimes has a vapor barrier). then in my opinion reflectix, others say reflectix first, but i put EPS first as the reflectix can also me a vapor barrier if installed with tapes seams. over that of course would be plywood, finished or covered to your liking/needs. you will find lots of methods and opinions on how to insulate those walls and many of them are really good. this is something that i would do myself. i might even add some sound deadening material to the walls first (like i did in my van) but that isnt cheap. the above "sandwhich" with 3/4" plywood will give you very solid walls, that can have flexible finishes applied for not a lot of money and result in a fairly buttoned up wall. if you can, applying a second layer of EPS will really result in great insulation. heck, ive even dreamed up a way to install two courses of the 2" EPS which would give R value 20.

The Conversion of "Freedom" , our permanent bus home...

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