A lot of people with Factory built RV's whose propane/120/12 volt 3 way fridges fail, choose not to pay 1000+$ for a new RV fridge, but buy an inexpensive residential style 120v ac fridge and power it off an Inverter hooked to the battery(s).<br /><br />The lady in the video says she uses an inverter with 2 large batteries to power her residential style 120v ac fridge. I did not watch the whole video but I imagine she also has a generator to power a battery charger/ converter to recharge the batteries when they get too low as well as power the fridge while the Genny is running.<br /><br />This works, but is much less efficient than using a fridge that is designed to run on 12 volts DC to begin with.<br /><br />Inverters are only ~90% efficient, and to recharge a battery, a minimum 110% of the energy removed must be applied to the battery to recharge.<br /><br />Residential fridges work best in RV's or Vans that can plug into the grid regularly, or that have a LOT of solar and large battery banks, or are driven several hours each and every day.<br /><br />Residential fridges typically use less insulation making them less efficient.<br /><br /> Most Residential fridges are not really designed for the vibrations that occur in an RV. The compressor tubing can crack and leak it's refrigerant. <br /><br />Some sort of door lock system must be used to keep the door from swinging open while driving. Also some system must be designed to keep the Fridge from tipping out of the cabinet, as well as insure airflow over the compressor and cooling fins.<br /><br />Some fridges do not like the MSW waveform of the AC electricity generated by the less expensive modified sine wave inverters and require pure sine wave inverters which are about 3 times more expensive for the same wattage.<br /><br />If the compressor of the fridge kicks on while you are powering other devices with the inverter, it can trip, and you need to shut every thing off and then reset the inverter, then turn the fridge back on.<br /><br />Many people use them successfully, many others shell out the extra for a 12 volt Marine or RV model after the second residential one fails.<br /><br />My inverter pulls 0.9 amps just turned on and powering nothing. Since the compressor only runs about 20 to 30 minutes every hour, I would waste a significant amount of energy just having the inverter on, waiting for the fridge compressor to turn back on. It would waste nearly as much energy as my 12 volt fridge uses in an hour.<br /><br />Some inverters have standby modes that draw very little when nothing is being asked of them, but this feature adds to the price of the inverter.<br /><br />If you already have a dorm sized residential fridge, and an inverter, then sure use it, but design the cabinet to be big enough to accept a 12 volt compressor fridge and save up for the 12 volt model you will eventually desire.<br /><br />My 12/120 volt fridge chooses 120 volts automatically when that power source is available.<br /><br />I despise my inverter. It is inefficient and the pitch of the continuously running fan is very annoying. I buy everything I can that comes in a 12 volt version. Mattress heating pad, fridge, TV, laptop DC to DC converter, fans, everything.<br /><br />Last time I used my inverter, was to power a soldering iron, weeks ago.<br /><br />A Dc to dc laptop converter vs an inverter powering the original power supply, is one of the best ways to conserve battery power. Universal ones are okay for laptops which cannot consume more than 60 watts( multiply the volts times the amps ie 19.5v x 4.7a needs a converter capable of providing 100 watts)<br /><br />PLug you laptop make and model number into Amazon and add "car converter"<br /><br />Mine cost 23 dollars (pwr + brand) and uses 20 to 50% less juice than if I were to use my inverter to power the original power brick.<br /><br /><br />