Technical Q&A For Renogy Solar Products

[akrvbob]

A Question for Renogy,

I understand drilling a hole through the frame voids the warranty and as far as I know that is the standard of the industry.

However, just to clarrify there are usually two warranties on a solar panel:

1) One covers the parts and workmanship and is good for 1-5 years.
2) The other is the power production from the panel itself and that is usually 15-25 years. That usually guarantees that the panel will produce a certain percentage of power (80% is common) for the warranty period.

I'm assuming drilling a hole through the frame will void the first warranty, but will not affect the second one. Is that true?

A second question.
How do you go about getting warranty work?

Thanks
Bob

 

[AuricTech]

As Bela's Mom pointed out a couple of posts ago, the Renogy 100W panels do have pre-drilled mounting holes (four along each of the long edges of the panels).  In fact, the module diagrams for both the RNG-100P 100W polycrystalline panel (.JPG format) and the RNG-100D 100W monocrystalline panel (.PDF format) show the locations of the mounting holes.  I would prefer to have an edge-of-panel to mounting hole measurement in the module diagrams, but it's not too difficult to figure out.

Unfortunately, the notation for the specifications of the mounting holes (what does "Φ9x14" mean to a layman?) is rather obscure for the average DIYer.  If/when Renogy updates the module diagrams for their panels, I suggest that they include a simple notation for the specifications of the mounting (and grounding) holes, that an average DIYer can both easily understand and als communicate to the average Home Despot employee.  There's no need to replace the notation presently used (I'm sure it means something to professionals); simply supplementing the present notation with a simple notation would suffice.

In the meantime, what does "Φ9x14" mean? :huh:

ETA: My initial guess is that "Φ9x14" refers to a hole 9mm in diameter, threaded to 14 rotations per centimeter.  I'm probably wrong, but that's why I would like to see a simple notation on the Renogy module diagrams....

 

[GotSmart]

I believe it is the size of the oblong mounting slots in the base of the panel.

Shown is an upside down panel with slots for mounting to the brackets.

The shadow of the drill end is pointing to one of the slots

This link will show the dimensions. illustration #5

http://www.renogy-store.com/Renogy-100W-12V-Mono-Solar-Panel-p/rng-100d.htm

 

[GotSmart]

Today my new controller came in.  It is like night and day the difference between this and the old unit.  

Complete digital readout, larger wire clamps, and even a thermometer.  

 

[GotSmart]

The post sent before I was finished.

 

[BigT]

A-III: If you wish to purchase a charge controller that has customizable voltage ranges, we would recommend our ViewStar charge controllers.

• http://www.renogy-store.com/ViewStar-20-amp-charge-controller-LCD-display-p/ctrl-pwm20-lcd-vs.htm
• http://www.renogy-store.com/Renogy-...lar-Charge-Controller-p/ctrl-pwm30-lcd-vs.htm

Which one should I run with a 160 Watt panel?  I'll be connecting it to a single, 12V 80Ah AGM and powering only a few 12V items (LED lights, CPAP, 12V fan).  

 

[akrvbob]

Big T, I'd guess they will only answer Mon-Fri, so I wouldn't expect an answer until Monday at the earliest.

Renogy isn't your only choice of controller. There are many other very good ones, probably better. But if you are on a tight budget, you can't do much better.

If I needed another medium sized controller, I'd buy another Blue Sky.
Bob

 

[jimindenver]

Go to ebay, Amazon or the like and start reading the spec pages of the controllers offed until you fine the features you want. You will find the same controller rebadged in different names at each site. The Solar 30 is like that, each site has their version, some even say MPPT which it is not. It takes time and you have to know what you want but it is the best way to meet your needs.

 

[GotSmart]

Which one should I run with a 160 Watt panel?  I'll be connecting it to a single, 12V 80Ah AGM and powering only a few 12V items (LED lights, CPAP, 12V fan).  

See if this will work.

http://www.renogy-store.com/30-amp-charge-controller-LCD-display-p/ctrl-pwm30-lcd.htm

 

[BigT]

Renogy isn't your only choice of controller. There are many other very good ones, probably better. But if you are on a tight budget, you can't do  much better.

If I needed another medium sized controller, I'd buy another Blue Sky.
Bob

From the Renogy website:  [font=Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]MPPT circuit solar controllers are considerably more elaborate than PWM. The voltage of the solar panel changes with time of day and temperature. The optimum voltage for battery charging changes as the state of charge of the battery. The MPPT charge controller matches these voltages and can result in 30% more efficient transfer of power. This means good MPPT solar charge controllers can reduce the number of solar panels needed by up to 30% - a tremendous benefit. While only a small part of system price, a MPPT solar panel charge controller can leverage the rest of the system to better performance.[/font]



[font=Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]Please Note: [/font][font=Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]These are Negative Ground Controllers. If grounding is necessary, it must be completed on the negative line. If the controller is to be used on a vehicle which has battery positive on the chassis, loads connected to the controller must not have an electrical connection to the vehicle body.[/font]


[font=Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]Odd, but that "Negative Ground" warning is worded exactly the same as the CC's with [/font][font=Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]positive ground.  Can that be right?  [/font]


[font=Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]Sounds like MPPT might be a better way to go, and not much more money to get one......  unless you buy a Blue Sky.  Yikes!  Those are pricey!  :exclamation: [/font]


[font=Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]I don't want to spend thousands of dollars on this setup, but I'm not really on a budget and I want to get this done right the first time around.  [/font]


[font=Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]This seems to be a pretty reasonable priced MPPT ($139).  http://www.renogy-store.com/MPPT-Charge-Controller-p/ctrl-mppt20.htm  I'm not sure what Amp rating I need to run a few 12V items, though.  [/font]

 

[Bela's Mom]

The amp rating of your charge controller must be more than the short circuit amp rating of your panel (or panels).  The controller you linked to would work and give you room to add another panel later if you chose to do so, as long as their combined short circuit amp rating was not more than the charge controller rating.

 

[SoulRaven]

A Question for Renogy,

I understand drilling a hole through the frame voids the warranty and as far as I know that is the standard of the industry.


A second question.
How do you go about getting warranty work?

Thanks
Bob

Bob, the way I read Renogys response to the drilling holes in the frame was that it will NOT void any warranty. Their answer is as follows:
 "A-II: Drilling holes in the frame of the panels is perfectly fine, however any modifications to the frame will void the warranty."
I don't understand what they mean about modifications to the frame. I guess drilling a hole is not a modification. I guess they mean reshaping it somehow. Like maybe cutting it to bend out sections of it to fit something. I would say that drilling a hole and attaching something is not really modifying it. This makes me happy.....cus I drilled 2 holes in the sides of the frame on mine to mount my adjustable frame to it. Cool....I still have my warranty.   I hope....

 

[SoulRaven]

Bob, the way I read Renogys response to the drilling holes in the frame was that it will NOT void any warranty. Their answer is as follows:
 "A-II: Drilling holes in the frame of the panels is perfectly fine, however any modifications to the frame will void the warranty."
I don't understand what they mean about modifications to the frame. I guess drilling a hole is not a modification. I guess they mean reshaping it somehow. Like maybe cutting it to bend out sections of it to fit something. I would say that drilling a hole and attaching something is not really modifying it. This makes me happy.....cus I drilled 2 holes in the sides of the frame on mine to mount my adjustable frame to it. Cool....I still have my warranty.   I hope....

Wait a minute, now that I reread the answer they give, it probably means that it is ok to drill holes in the frame, but if you do drill any holes it will void the warranty?
I think they were just answering the question about would it hurt anything to drill holes in the frame. They were saying that no, it won't hurt anything, but it will void the warranty. I think I understand it now. Maybe I'm thinking tooo much.

 

[akrvbob]

I's always been my understanding that nearly nearly all manufacturers will void the warranty if you drill a hole. However, it doesn;t affect the warranty on power production, it's still fully warranted for the life of the warranty.

I've almost always drilled holes in the frame.
Bob

 

[Renogy]

If I can't drill holes in the frame, how do I mount them to anything?   :huh:
What do the z-brackets attach to?  

Hi BigT,

As Bela's mom said, the z-brackets attatch to the pre-drilled holes.

All the best,
The Renogy Team

 

[Renogy]

I have a 100 watt Renogy panel. I am not mounting it permanently. What type of portable stand do you recommend?

Hi Stevesway,

Unfortunately we do not offer any “legged” or ground mount stands for our units. However, we've heard that WindyNation does carry a sort of a stand that supposedly works for our 100 watt panels. Hopefully this helps.

Also, you were correct with your second reading of our answer. While drilling holes will not affect the panel's performance, it will however void the panel's workmanship warranty.

All the best,
The Renogy Team

 

[Renogy]

I'm assuming drilling a hole through the frame will void the first warranty, but will not affect the second one. Is that true?
How do you go about getting warranty work?

Hi Bob,

Yes, you're correct. The drilling of the holes in the FRAME voids the first warranty but not the second warranty. It will make it difficult to resell, however, it will not affect performance.

As for the second question, are you asking specifically about how to register for a warranty? If so, you can register your product here.

Hopefully this helped!

All the best,
The Renogy Team

 

[Renogy]

Unfortunately, the notation for the specifications of the mounting holes (what does "Φ9x14" mean to a layman?) is rather obscure for the average DIYer.  If/when Renogy updates the module diagrams for their panels, I suggest that they include a simple notation for the specifications of the mounting (and grounding) holes, that an average DIYer can both easily understand and also communicate to the average Home Despot employee.  There's no need to replace the notation presently used (I'm sure it means something to professionals); simply supplementing the present notation with a simple notation would suffice.

In the meantime, what does "Φ9x14" mean? :huh:

Hi AuricTech,

We are actually in the process of updating our module diagrams to make them easier to understand. Thank you for your suggestion nonetheless!

And as GotSmart mentioned, Φ9x14 refers to the dimensions of the oblong mounting slots.

If you have more questions, please feel free to ask us and we'll do our best to answer them.

All the best,
The Renogy Team

 

[Renogy]

Today my new controller came in.  It is like night and day the difference between this and the old unit.  

Hi John,

We're glad you're enjoying your new controller!

Please let us know if we can help you with anything else.

All the best,
The Renogy Team

 

[Renogy]

Which one should I run with a 160 Watt panel?  I'll be connecting it to a single, 12V 80Ah AGM and powering only a few 12V items (LED lights, CPAP, 12V fan).  

Hey BigT,

You should be fine with a 20amp charge controller based on your specs. Also, as for your comment about the negative ground controller being worded similarly to the positive ground controller, it is correct. The controllers are similar, but of course need to be grounded to the corresponding line, negative to negative, and positive to positive.

All the best,
The Renogy Team