Starting point for newbie vandweller with plans to expand, including needs list.

[thatswhatsup]

Hey Everyone!!

Still estimating costs for my first solar system intended for vandwelling.

After weighing the pros and cons of flexible vs traditional, I think I'm sold on the velcro over drilling holes in my roof.
That said, I'll have to overplan to compensate for reduced efficiency, especially since they cannot be aimed.

I want to carve out a good starting point, with plans on adding panels and batteries as I recoup investment costs.

My idea is to start with:

1 120w Flexible Solar Panel: http://www.amazon.com/KINGSOLAR-trade-Generation-Motorhome-Campervan/dp/B00R8SMVC2/
1 Renogy MPPT Controller to keep efficiency as high as possible: http://www.amazon.com/Renogy-Tracer-Charge-Controller-100VDC/dp/B00E7NI9PE/
1 12v 125AH AGM Battery, may try to find local if possible: http://www.amazon.com/Vmaxtanks-Vmaxslr125-rechargeable-Solar-Inverters/dp/B00ACNO2AO/

If possible, I'd love to cut off the initial investment budget there, and I'm assuming that can be possible if all components I plan to run are 12v DC, correct? Is there an arguable benefit for not using an inverter and thus not losing energy due to conversion? I'll still need an interface between the battery and the device I'm powering I assume.

My basic needs will be some led lighting, 1 or 2 fans to circulate the hot, humid FL air to keep the living space liveable, and charging capability for a smartphone, surface tablet, and (unfortunately) power hungry alienware laptop.

Maybe eventually I'd like to add a cooler for food storage, but that wouldnt be an immediate need.

As I get deeper into the solar lifestyle, I'll want to add more of the same panels and batteries. Will this MPPT controller allow me to keep adding panels, up to four?

As my charging ability and energy storage capability increases, I'll probably spring for the inverter last, since using it will be purely for convenience and will reduce my energy efficiency..   .. correct?

PURE SINE WAVE Inverter 3000W Cont/6000W Peak: http://www.amazon.com/PowerTech-Advanced-Technology-Terminals-Protection/dp/B0131PZ9J2

Anything above look like a mismatch or any suggestions for better decisions I should be making?
Thanks again for your input!! Greatly appreciated!

 

[FALCON]

What are you planning to run off the inverter? 3,000 watts is a huge inverter.

If I'm doing the math right, 3,000 watts would be pulling 250 amps (at 12v) and would empty your battery (to 50% drawdown) in like 15 minutes.

 

[FALCON]

Also - You can charge a ton of stuff on straight DC, but many components need to charge at a voltage other than 12v. Most things that charge by USB use 5v (but if you get a 12v USB converter, it will convert the voltage inside it). But for something like your laptop, that's probably going to want something like 15v or 20v. So you need a DC to DC voltage converter to step up the voltage.

Another example I am planning for myself is a portable bluetooth speaker that charges at 9amps. So I'll be getting another DC voltage converter just for that. If you have multiple devices needing different voltages and you REEEALLLY want to keep things minimal, you could get an adjustable DC converter and adjust it every time you charge something needing different voltage (that would be a pain in the ass). If you're going to need to get a bunch of different DC converters, there's a point where it would be cheaper form a $ standpoint to just buy a small inverter.

 

[BradKW]

hello...basic plan sounds good except for the inverter. There's lot's of good thread on inverters in archive, use the search function to find'em. Compare what you linked to a 1000W pure sine from a widely accepted top brand and you'll begin to see it takes some research just to compare apples to apples: http://www.amazon.com/Magnum-MMS101...8&qid=1450938873&sr=8-11&keywords=magnum+pure

Not sure about your gaming laptops needs. I just rebuilt my system into a mini-ITX case with a I7 and GTX 970, and a Platinum rated fanless PSU...with the idea of reducing both size and power needs to run from solar. Learned some new things about PSUs, how they're rated and what it means to efficiency this time around. Someone suggested getting a Kill-A-Watt thingy to see what actual usage is, and that's a pretty smart idea, especially if you might be cutting it close. My plan is to minimize the system which I've done, and then go for overkill on solar with 300-400w and a 8D 255ah battery. With an Alienware system, I'd guess you're a gamer, so you probably need to take a close look at what you have...some of the recent gfx card generations have been huge power hogs even in mobile, not to mention if you have a SLI setup...

 

[thatswhatsup]

Thanks for the input!!

Actually, I'm not a gamer, but have reformatted/repurposed the Alienware for audio and video production. It's still a pretty capable laptop considering I purchased it in 2009 or 2010 if I recall correctly.

Also, yes that inverter would be huge considering just one panel and battery.. my plans were to keep adding panels and batteries until I got to four of each, then spring for the big inverter.. I should have made that clearer.

Even considering four panels and four batteries.. would it still be too big?

 

[thatswhatsup]

Also, good point about needing more and more DC converters.. that could get nasty. The inverter should be included in the first purchase and sized appropriately for the number of panels and batteries I'll be starting off with, that I know for sure now.

I'm assuming I'll be best off with something like this:
http://www.amazon.com/Sunforce-11240-Inverter-Remote-Control/dp/B000WGNNUQ/

And I'll definitely pick up that killowat meter at HD to get a specific number on my load requirements.
Right now, I'm basing on estimates from this: http://www.wholesalesolar.com/solar-information/how-to-save-energy/power-table

Laptop - 250
Phone - <10
Tablet - 60?
Stereo - 30
LED lighting - 10-20
2 Portable Fans - 200

But seeing so many luxury devices that would be just slightly out of my wattage reach makes me think I'd be better off with something like this:
http://www.amazon.com/MicroSolar-2000W-Inverter-Remote-Controller/dp/B00GZBHFMY/

Coffee Machine - 1500
Microwave - 1500
Toaster Oven - 1200
Hot Plate - 1200

And I won't even mention this one: "Room Air Conditioner NA - 1100"
I've already come to grips with that impossibility.

Now I know I wouldn't be able to run those luxury items with just one panel and one battery, but would it be wise to start with the 2000W inverter so I can grow into adding three more panels and three more batteries over time?

If the 2000W is just too much for one panel and one battery, I get that as well, and I would obviously have no choice but to start with the 1000W inverter and get another as I grow.

Thanks again for your input!

 

[BradKW]

There's no reason not to buy a big inverter if you plan to grow into it, as it will run just as well off 1 battery as it would 4. Phantom draw might be higher, but general practice is to turn off/disconnect inverters when not in use. But I really would urge you to do some research on inverters before buying, it'll likely save you from wasting money. For example, the first one you linked in initial post (the 3000w) is by all appearances a piece of Chinese junk. Not all Chinese is junk, but that one in particular has a good chance of it.

The second one, the 1000w Sunforce, doesn't appear to have ability to hook up to a subpanel, so you might be limited to only 2 outlets. And reading further into the reviews and Q/A, it appears its actually only (2x) 500W outlets, not 1000W in parallel.

To further complicate things, the rated Wattage/Surge Wattage on cheap units can be a lie. I've come across many examples in forums where people say their (example) 2000w inverter cuts out at 1200W, but then a high quality 1000w inverter handles 1200w spikes without a problem.

Heat and noise are also issues with inverters, and will determine where you place it and how much ventilation (active or passive) is needed.

And then there's the problem of Chinese manufacturers changing the components, so while you might find great reviews of a relatively inexpensive unit from a few years ago, you might dig deeper and find that the "new" unit only has its name in common with the older one.

Oh, and assuming you have a m17 laptop (2010), its power usage looks like this: 4600mAh battery = 4.6Ah, runtime = 47min till battery discharged, so I'd say its usage is in 5Ah ? Not sure what load that 47min is, couldn't tell in chart if it was full load or casual usage.

 

[thatswhatsup]

Thanks as always! Yes I have so much to learn I'm at that point where I'm not even sure what all my questions are.
I'll get back to the drawing board and read up more on these manufacturers. Thanks again!

 

[blars]

Batteries should be matched, don't mix worn and new ones. When you use Lead-Acid at more than 5% of the rated capacity, the capacity drops. Forget the huge inverter and the stuff you would plug into it until you have a large battery bank. Try and get charging sources that can be programed, so you can switch over to LiFePO4 when you get tired of the problems with Lead-Acid.

 

[BradKW]

.... so you can switch over to LiFePO4 when you get tired of the problems with Lead-Acid.

Or, more accurately, when I get tired of the problems associated with not winning the lottery...