Scout the Van - '95 Dodge Ram High Top

[Ballenxj]

Scout is coming right along. Nice looking windows too.

 

[bkrunaway]

@highdesertstranger those little holes are indeed all the way through.

 

[bkrunaway]

[img=640x480]http://i32.photobucket.com/albums/d.../d33/kaytieflo/IMG_0882_zpsyrzqrhji.jpg[/img]

 

[bkrunaway]

I started on those interior rust spots with a wire brush and scrubbed out some of the dirt to get a clearer look. Looks much better now but with this heat today gonna wait til tonight//tomorrow to do anymore work. After about 45 mins I ran back to my apt and stripped down to my skivvies. Remind me why I don't have AC in my house...

I've got sand paper as well. Any suggestion on what to use to fill those holes that go through to the exterior?

 

[Gary68]

butyl tape
http://shop.marinehowto.com/products/bed-it-tape

 

[highdesertranger]

those look like slide hammer hole. drilled through the sheet metal to pull a dent out. if that's the case they should have been filled after the dent was pulled. there a 2 ways to fill them, welding or bondo. if you need help with te proper way to do them ask away. highdesertranger

 

[bkrunaway]

I knew they were something! Slide hammer holes. Alright. Thanks!

I did my rust research last night and found these two threads helpful:

• https://vanlivingforum.com/Thread-Rust-Prevention-Flooring-Suggestions?page=1&highlight=rust
• https://vanlivingforum.com/Thread-Rust?page=5&highlight=rust

Was thinking about getting a cheapo grinder and wire wheel and then didn't know if it would get in the tight spaces I needed it to get in and I won't have a power hook up until the weekend. Then I liked the wire brush, ospho, and scotchbrite pad approach followed by primer and topcoat. Unfortunately my local hardware store did not have much in the way of rust products so I picked up some of rustoleum's "rust reformer". It has similar description of the process (in terms of making the rust inert and black) but it's lack of toxicity  and phosphoric acid makes me think it may be less penetrative than the ospho. 

In the hour I could stand the heat and direct sun I took a wire brush to some of the rust spots, cleaned and let them dry, and slapped on some of the "rust reformer" just to say I did something for the day. Should be cooler tomorrow and hoping to get it all done then. 

Would love some feedback on my 3 rust issues: 

• The rust on van floor has not softened the metal and spreads under the existing floor. I am going to treat and cover what I can see and leave removing the flooring (which is securely adhered) to a future project if the van is still in my life in two years. 
• Frame around door + general body rust: Treat it. Maybe sand it down, coat with rust reformer, prime, and paint
• Slide hammer holes: can I just handle them as I plan above and add bondo as a step somewhere along the way? 

These are just my ideas strung together from research. Suggestions welcome!

 

[highdesertranger]

yes you don't have to do Bondo but get that rust. see post number 3 in this thread I explained it there,

https://vanlivingforum.com/Thread-Filling-holes-in-the-floor

however I would fill those holes ASAP, they are only going to let moisture in. highdesertranger

 

[PineyCruisin]

Not sure if you were planning on substituting Rust Reformer for a good grind-to-shiny-metal-->prime-->paint because, based on experience, Rust Reformer will not solve deeper rust problems single handedly. It may slow down the oxidation process on the areas where it is applied but can not stop it deeper within.

I used to use it on the undercarriage of my 99 Wrangler merely to make areas of the undercarriage that had surface rust but were impractical to grind down properly in order to slow down the rust and to make it look more aesthetically pleasing. I had to reapply usually twice every single year (I live in the NE) because I could see the orange devil rear its ugly head. 

My suggestion would be to use the Rust Reformer only on very minor surface-rust areas where the integrity of the metal is not compromised and where you are able reapply the product easily as needed.

 

[caretaker]

if the rust is flakey,you have to get it ALL out, NO rust product will help. when the rust is flakey that means the metal is doing whats called de laminating, if you look at it close you will see thin layers that means the rust is moving horizontally thru the total thickness of the metal(in most cases, but sometimes the out side looks perfect then you touch it and it falls apart), when it is doing that you have to get it all out or its just a matter of time no mater what you do. you have a dodge its a unibody, you have to be extra vigilant underneath. just an FYI

 

[bkrunaway]

Rust sanded and holes bondo'd! Man that stuff stinks. 

Thanks for the tips along the way everyone. There are other rust spots to get, but I'll wait for a power hook up and pick up a cheapo grinder to get them later and quicker. I really wanted to get these holes filled so I could start insulating. 

This is just one of the spots covering about 3 slide hammer holes. The first pass was pretty rough, but sanding can solve anything. 
[img=372x480]http://i32.photobucket.com/albums/d33/kaytieflo/IMG_0933_zpsfhukko4o.jpg[/img]


Most of the paint in the photo below is from the PO's initial fix of whatever impact the van had before I had her. 
[img=372x480]http://i32.photobucket.com/albums/d33/kaytieflo/IMG_0939_zpsp4y7qzak.jpg[/img]

 

[bkrunaway]

And now for insulation week at Scout's sidewalk construction site:
[img=640x480]http://i32.photobucket.com/albums/d33/kaytieflo/IMG_1031_zps1afdt8vo.jpg[/img]

Lots of fun puzzle work with the polyiso. Probably my favorite part of the build so far. 
[img=672x480]http://i32.photobucket.com/albums/d...-4628-bdb0-57244ec2d7a9_zpsxohhln5l.jpg[/img]

I am using 2 layers of 1/2" polyiso for a total of 1" of insulation. The width of the board (which runs vertically in the van) is about 1.5" shorter than the the height of the walls. This came in really handy when I started cutting the boards in half to fit with the curves of the van because it left a 1.5" insulation free channel running horizontal along the length of the van. The channel lines up perfectly with the holes built into the ribs of the van that the existing electrical had been running through. 

Who needs to plan ahead for wooden braces when you've got boots?
[img=640x480]http://i32.photobucket.com/albums/d33/kaytieflo/IMG_1033_zpsevx9e6ry.jpg[/img]

As for adhesive I've been using 3M's Hi Strength 90 spray adhesive. It's been working well but like so much else along the way it is horrible to be stuck in the van with (see: Contractors' Solvent and Bondo experiences). Even with my respirator on today I was getting headaches. 

Tomorrow I'm going to grab another set of filters for my respirator (could probably use a new set) and also use less adhesive. I've been fully coating both the van walls and the polyiso with adhesive and think I could get away with a few well placed stripes instead. Any pointers on good filters to use in my respirator for the spray adhesive would be appreciated!

 

[highdesertranger]

I like the 3M filters get the right ones. mine is at work or I would give you the part number. highdesertranger

 

[caretaker]

the box the filter comes in will tell you what its good for.

 

[AbuelaLoca]

Great progress!!

 

[bkrunaway]

Heading out to the suburbs to work in a driveway with a power hook-up!! Hoping to get both my fantastic fan and two more windows installed. 

Window Question:
I'm installing windows marketed as horse trailer windows because they were the only ones that fit the dimensions of my high top. When I took them out to look at them tonight it looks like the external frame already has some sort of rubber seal installed on it. It's about 1/2cm thick and is only has adhesive on one side, so it sticks to the frame of the window that will be against the exterior of the van wall, but will not stick to the van wall.

Should I still use butyl tape?

[img=480x480]http://i32.photobucket.com/albums/d33/kaytieflo/FullSizeRender.jpg-1_zps5ubzdof4.jpeg[/img]

 

[highdesertranger]

good question. the window manufacturers that use that rubber seal say that's all you need. but then some recommend running a bead of caulk around the top and part way down the sides after the window is installed. that doesn't seem right to me. if the rubber seals it there should be no need for caulking. now I have installed those before the caulking was recommended and guess what, they leaked. I have never had a window leak that was installed with butyl tape.

so what should you do? that's the million dollar question. if it was me I would get in touch with the manufacturer and ask them for the proper installation procedure. here's a real good video about Peninsular Windows. they use a 2 faced foam tape and the caulking. don't know if that will help.



like I said get ahold of the manufacturer and see what they say. let us know what they say I am curious. test the window for leaks after the install. I know not much help, sorry. highdesertranger

 

[bkrunaway]

Thank you HDR! Sorry for the slow response, I ended up in Shutesbury, MA without much internet access. I really appreciate you offering what you know and letting me know what you don't!

I ended up going with the foam tape and a clear RV sealant. One side looks beautiful, one side looks a bit messy with the sealant, but both DON'T LEAK so far. There was a pretty good downpour the next night and I ran out of the house and into the van to see if any of the 5 holes I've added to the van would leak. While there were no leaks around the windows or fan there was a mystery leak from the side of the van which made me happy I haven't put up the walls yet. Still have to figure that out.

More detailed updates later, going to head over to electrical to layout my wiring plan for some critique!

 

[bkrunaway]

Started a new thread for my electrical plans over in the electrical section
https://vanlivingforum.com/Thread-12V-Wiring-Plan-200W-Renogy-Kit