Scout the Van - '95 Dodge Ram High Top

[bkrunaway]

After months of deliberation, many hours on my craigslist app scrolling through ads all over the region, a lot of helpful feedback from all of you, and one failed deal in Saratoga Springs, I finally bought a '95 Dodge Ram 2500 with 118k miles from a 17 year old son of a mechanic in Rhode Island. On Friday I visited and put down a deposit and on Monday was heading back to Rhode Island with new NY license plates so I could finally drive it away. 

I am very excited to introduce Scout:

 





I am trying for a quick turn around renovation so that I can be on the road in early July. I will be traveling by myself and with a revolving cast of friends and family throughout the summer visiting cities, national parks, and BLM land. Some places I would like to be: Massachusetts --> North Carolina --> TN --> OH --> Minneapolis --> Montana --> Washington--> California. Exact route and destinations TBD but the general goal is to see old friends and family, go on hikes from van base camp, swim everywhere, and have time and space to read, sing, and play my guitar. 

The time crunch is because of the unique window I have right now in my life to take off for a little while. My father died in car accident in September and after trying hobble along in my job+life for months I'm finally just admitting that I need to runaway for a little while. I quit my job and worked my last day 3 weeks ago. Now all my time can be spent on the van and preparing to leave for the next few months. I am preparing an "ideal plan" and many "plan B's" so that whatever happens I will have something functional to take off in by July. 

More pictures to come with plans, ideas, and questions!

 

[Gunny]

Looks like a great blank canvas to start on. Congratulations.


Rob

 

[bkrunaway]

Today I started to pull down the gray paneling as well as the dark blue carpeted trim to see what I am working with. I am trying to figure out what to do first and how to be smart about the existing electrical as I do it. So far this is my plan:

1. Take down paneling while preserving wiring 
2. Remove fiberglass insulation and clean matted insulation off walls. 
3. Add 2 windows toward rear of van, one on each side. Maybe add two smaller slider windows in the high top above those windows. 
4. Use polyiso to insulate between the ribs and insulate the high top 
5. Install solar using existing wiring. 
6. Add bed, kitchen cabinets. 
7. Install wood paneling or bead board on walls and ceiling
8. And so on...

Some Unanswered Questions/Concerns:
Existing Wood Floors:

• The van came with beautiful hardwood floors. The wood is laid on top of plywood and another layer of wood. There is no insulation under the wood floor. How necessary is insulation of the floor both in terms of heat transfer and sound. Should I lift up the floor (if possible) just to put in some insulation?

Existing Electrical: 

• There is already wiring to the ceiling lights, the two outlets, and the electric heater. I will keep the lights and two outlets and remove the heater. There is a fuse box and mystery switch that from my cursory research should control a generator (?) but I haven't seen a generator. I am unsure if the wiring is just to shore power or also to the starter battery. I don't feel like it is necessarily tackle all of the wiring right now, though I would like to start developing an understanding of how to use the existing wiring with a solar setup. Right now it feels most important to me to know that I will not electrocute myself as I strip the walls and insulation and move around the outlets and fuse box to do so. Any ideas on how to do this safely?

Insulating and Paneling Fiberglass Top:

• There is a patched hole where a vent used to be that allows me to see a cross section of the fiberglass. It looks like corrugated cardboard - there are two layers of fiberglass with vertical lines of some other thin material in between. Currently, there is trim (covered in blue carpet) screwed directly into the bottom most layer of the fiberglass. The trim holds the ceiling lights and hides the wiring. 
• Can I use the same technique in attaching wood strips to the fiberglass to anchor future paneling? Or should I use adhesive for the polysio and then just screw straight through it into the inner most layer of fiberglass to add the paneling? 
• How do I know which sections of the fiberglass have this double layer?
• Can a screw into this most inner layer of fiberglass even hold the weight of polyiso and wood paneling or bead board?

If you have any favorite threads about similar topics or any advice to throw my way I welcome it. Looking forward to the build and all your input. I'll continue my research as well! Wish me luck 

 

[AbuelaLoca]

That floor is gorgeous! Bob says don't worry about insulating the floor. As for the hightop, I think you have the same as dr_nelson... his conversion thread might help in that area!

 

[djkeev]

About the ceiling, I would not depend solely upon screws.
I would for sure utilize a quality adhesive to work with the screws.
Do make sure that the adhesive has high temperature bonding abilities. It can get up well over 100* when parked in the Sun. Lesser products will let go.

Dave

 

[bkrunaway]

Working on ordering windows today!

Anyone know whether or not I have to specifically order Dodge windows when ordering CRL windows? I have more options if I can also order windows they mark as Ford and Chevy. I feel like this question could benefit from a separate thread to catch some topic-specific attention, but don't know the etiquette around constantly starting new threads when I have a conversion thread going! Let me know what you think.

 

[AbuelaLoca]

RE: Windows

https://vanlivingforum.com/Thread-Adding-Windows?highlight=adding+windows

Feel free to make separate posts in subject directories!

 

[bkrunaway]

It's amazing how I search through the forums and miss the most obviously titled ones! Thank you for both of your thread referrals. I've settled on universal contoured CRL windows and will be reading over the thread you sent me.

 

[highdesertranger]

the closer the window copies the curvature of the van wall the easier it will be to keep sealed. I like the name you picked for your van, same as my dog Scout. highdesertranger

 

[deeporbit]

Looks great! I love that floor.

 

[bkrunaway]

Not the most eventful few days, but I have made some progress!
Before I get into the thick of it, my new strategy is to post questions or conundrums at that top so they're easy to recognize and then get into the details later. 

Current Questions/Conundrums:

1. How to remove seatbelt bolts. Do I need a breaker bar?
2. How to remove remnant of fiberglass insulation adhered to van walls. Any helpful solvents/cleaners that might get all those pink fibers off? Am I just fated to have bumpy pink walls under by new insulation?
3. There's a seam in van wall toward the back of my van (extended body) and it is running right through where I wanted to install windows. Can I thin the inner lip of the seam so my 1/8" clamp ring will fit over it or do I need to order different windows and go back to the drawing board?

Since Last Time:
I agonized over windows and ordered them, I posted another thread re: electrical safety when tearing out the existing walls and fiberglass insulation of my van (http://www.cheaprvliving.com/forums...-Wiring-aka-help-me-to-not-electrocute-myself), and I also took my first official van supply trip to Lowe's. I wasn't totally ready to go considering I have smaller hardware store around the corner, but a friend needed to buy some wood and I offered to bring her. It's tough to get a project done in a city where most people don't have cars. I also think I am really enjoying having a vehicle that can so easily handle a 12-ft piece of lumber!

Purchased:

• Half-face respirator with particulate filters (fiberglass insulation removal)
• Goggles (accidentally autocorrected to "giggles" on my shopping list)
• Spray adhesive, hight temp resistant
• 6 sheets of polyiso (4' x 8' x 1/2") to get started
• 18 TPI jigsaw blades for when it's time to get cutting for those windows

More in the next post....

 

[bkrunaway]

Electrical Developments:
My other thread in the electricity section ended up being really helpful. I now know that I will not be electrocuted by the fuse box, the heater, and the outlet because they all run on 120V and there is no power source for a 120V system in my van. As for other components like the "cigarette" outlet and the dome lights, I just unhooked the negative terminal of my battery to be safe. I went searching for where the generator must have been stored and found wires running under the van near the back passenger wheel well that had both been cut. 

Gutting, Seatbelt, and Evil Fiberglass
I spent the day removing the dark blue carpeted trim from each side panel and removing little upholstery covers on the walls and the screws underneath them. I got a bit worried as I removed some of the covers and uncovered screws that were rusted and almost crumbling. I saved the door and passenger side panels so I can use them as templates if I end up going with luan or bead board for the walls. "Storing" is a bit difficult considering I'm working on a street in Brooklyn and my only storage space is the van, but we'll see how it goes. Maybe keeping them around will be worth it. 

The doors and passenger side panel gave me no trouble, after removing the various electrical components. But the driver's side panel runs all the way to the driver's side door and the seatbelt is bolted through it at two points. I tried unsuccessfully to remove the bolt at the bottom with my adjustable wrench, but no luck. The local hardware store (very knowledgeable because they are geared toward contractors) mentioned that there they probably used thread sealer on both points of connection and suggested that I use need a breaker bar to remove them. I suggested putting a pipe at the end of a shorter tool to lengthen the lever arm (and to save money) but he didn't seem to like my idea. Unsure if the breaker bar's only function is to give a longer lever arm, or if I am misunderstanding the function of the tool. Anyone run into this before?

Without being able to remove that part of the wall, and without a portable jig saw, I just pulled the driver's side wall away from the ribs and ripped out the fiberglass insulation behind it. 

I have never despised a material combination quite as much as fiberglass insulation and spray adhesive. My van walls are now just matted dark pink fibers. Currently researching how to remove the rest of the fiberglass so I can move on. 






(*not sure why some of my photos are rotated)

Window Installation and Body Seam:
Removing the walls and the insulation revealed a seam in the body between two of the ribs. The inside of the seam has a 3/4"-1" lip. It wouldn't be a problem, if it wasn't for the fact that the seam runs right through the area on both sides where I was going to install a window.

Many of the CRL windows DK hardware sells have 1/8" clamp ring. I was planning on installing them on the van wall with a very thin frame (if necessary) to bring the wall thickness up to 1/8". With this seam, the only way I can foresee installing the windows where I want them is to shave down a section of the seam so that it is no more than 1/8" thick in the area where the window frame will need to be clamped together. The other option is to try to find windows with a much larger clamp ring and just build up a much thicker frame to then attach the window too. Window options for larger clamp ring sizes are very limited. 

Luckily there was a problem with my credit card so the window order didn't go through. One step forward and two steps back...but I'll just bike to the bar. 

Overall I'm really happy to have finally started! I'm sure all my neighbors are very curious as to why some girl with a face mask keeps jumping in and out of a van.

 

[AbuelaLoca]

I don't have any answers to your issues, but you're on your way for sure!!!

 

[highdesertranger]

that is not a factory seat belt bolt, it probably has a lock nut on the other side. more than likely it will take 2 people, one under one over. did you get the bolt to move at all? yes a longer tool will give you more leverage. a breaker bar is for breaking tight hardware loose so you don't strip the gears in your ratchet. and yes you can put a piece of pipe over your breaker bar to get more leverage. might not be a good idea with cheap tools.

you cannot cut though that seam or grind it down. the seem will want to separate if you do.

highdesertranger

 

[Almost There]

Try using a metal putty knife for a scraper!

I had to remove many, many bags of pink insulation from the van when I was gutting the less than stellar interior it came with.

I ended up using a pair of hemostats, a couple of knitting needles, a cake icing spatula and various drywall/putty knives to remove the damn stuff.

Gluing it to the metal walls is about as bad as what I faced with it stuck to the inside of the fiberglass hightop (rough uncoated side).

 

[bkrunaway]

And how can I forget...

I finally brought Scout to the mechanic for a formal inspection and to sooth my mind about NOT bringing her to a mechanic before I bought her. 

I was worried about two things: 

1. The engine sounded loud
2. I was feeling pretty unstable at highway speeds on a windy day. 

I ended up at the mechanic on my corner who I walk by every day and have never brought my car to. I saw some good reviews for his shop so when I walked by the other day I asked if he had ceiling clearance for a high top. Great guy, he even went on a test drive with me so we could chat about what I was noticing in the van. 

He ended up replacing the sway bar bushings and links because they were corroded. The steering is loose, but he recommended not trying to interfere with it, and said that it was probably just due to the age of the car and the way old steering systems were designed. I'd take the "no power steering" of my old '97 Honda Civic hatchback (aka "Ladybug Beach", may she rest in peace) to this loose power steering, but I'm sure I think I'd reget that given the size of the van . I won't be taking her on the highway for another week or so we'll see how she drives once I do. 

As for the loud engine, he said that the entire exhaust system was brand new, but that it was shortened which he thought might have made it louder. He said they also left out the catalytic converter. In the next few weeks I'll be getting a catalytic converter and bringing it in to him to install. Ignoring emissions is one shortcut/money savings trick that I'd prefer not to use. I'm already traveling in this monster of a vehicle instead of my '04 Honda Civic, so the least I can do is invest in a catalytic converter. 

Overall he said she is in great shape and was clearly someone's cherished project vehicle!

 

[bkrunaway]

@highdesertstranger: just clarifying: by "cut through the seam" you mean I cannot make a hole for the window that includes the seamed area, even if I get a larger clamp ring? I was afraid someone was going to say that about the seam. Back to the drawing board re: the windows. Guess it was good luck that my credit card didn't go through and I can easily cancel the order! Thanks as always for the guidance!

@Almost There: scraping will commence! Did you find that water or cleaner softened it at all?

@AbuelaLoca: thanks for cheering me on!

 

[highdesertranger]

for best results leave the seam intact. do not cut through it or grind it down. btw when installing windows the usual method is to clamp the interior ring to the wood paneling on the inside. lets see, how can I explain this,
1. the hole is cut in the sheet metal.
2. the insulation and interior paneling is installed.
3. the insulation and interior paneling is cut to match the hole in the sheet metal.
4. if the insulation and the panel is not tight(there is an air gap) spacers must be added(scrap wood)
5. butyl tape is laid on the outer sheet metal
6. the window is set in place, someone needs to hold it there
7. the inner ring is then installed sometimes longer screws need to be used to hold everything in place. do not over tighten these they are only there for alignment purposes
8. the screws are then installed. when finished everything should be tight the butyl tape should be squeezed out around the entire outer circumference. the interior ring should be flush with the window frame and the paneling should be tight. by tight I mean you can't push it in, there is no play.
hope this helps, highdesertranger

 

[Gary68]

a catalytic converter will quiet it down quite a bit but dont get the cheap one or you'll be doing it again in a year or three

 

[bkrunaway]

Thanks @highdesertstranger, it's helpful to have another brain on this predicament! 

The method that you mentioned, is the one I've been seeing around as well: to build up the wall to the width of a larger clamp ring and have it rest on the interior wall. The only problem is, CRL makes very few contoured windows (maybe non-contoured as well I just haven't been looking at them) with a clamp ring larger than 1/8". The 9 models that have the 2-1/4" clamp ring don't fit the space to the right of the seam: 22". Because of this I thought I'd create a window ledge/box. 

Is it just not common/desirable to build the window box/ledge and that's why people use the larger clamp rings that can sit on the interior wall, or is it structurally not a good idea? I'm wondering why they make the majority of their windows in the 1/8" clamp ring size, if it is indeed not advisable to use them. Perhaps they're intended for van walls that are built to have structural supports for aftermarket windows. 

Just had the brilliant idea to call CRL and see what they have to say. 

If anyone has any leads on other window manufacturers, let me know!