Reasonable Window A/C? ($129, 11.1 EER, 5k BTU, 336/400 Watts)

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IGBT said:
Yes, these are the ballpark prices we paid for the stuff:

...

Everything just works.

Oh, and the four panels take up about 60% of our roof space.  About 10 feet by 6 feet.

^  Priceless info  

Can't thank you enough.
 
So here are the four readings for you. I used a devise called a Wattsup Pro to measure. This device is an inline power monitor. Fan only Low 57.2 Watts, Fan Only High 60.3 Watts, Low cool w/ compressor 324 Watts and surprisingly High cool w/ compressor 336 Watts. So what that tells me is the fan low versus high shunts some of the power through a resister. Very little difference between low and high 3Watts Fan and 12Watts difference with the compressor. I will likely no longer run the unit on low to save energy again. Hope this helps. FYI during start up is did reach about 400 Watts on the meter. Not really the inrush power but gives you some idea of start up demand if you are planning a generator to run the unit. This is likely far more info than you needed. The unit also has what looks like a GFI plug with resets. It could just be a circuit protector.

Not sure exactly about the fan wattage discrepancies but keep in mind that consumer plug-in wattmeters are not lab-quality units and the numbers can get skewed by the 'power factor' corrections, spikes in the AC line during compressor operation, and the variability of the 120v house electrical supply. Anything with inductive loads can alter the readings, to a few percentage points up or down.

So if the numbers are close, that's usually good enough.

As far as reducing fan speed with a resistor, this is not correct. The blower fan motor will have a separate winding for each speed.

And most importantly, the inrush 'power' can not be measured with a typical digital meter, they have no ability to do a peak hold in most cases. They usually take one sample per second....Expect the true inrush surge to be 2 or 3 times what the meter can show. Maybe more.
 
tx2sturgis said:
Ok thanks, what is the approximate square footage or dimensions needed for the 4 panels on a roof?

That must be on a large van or a trailer?

No, we built our RV from complete scratch (welded steel frame, aluminum siding)

That is just the room for solar on the living pod.  If we take off the canoe and kayak we could put another kilowatt or so on the garage/workshop pod for a total potential of 2.5 to 3kW of solar.   Would be a bit overkill maybe.


solar1.jpgNDcamp1.jpgRVunload2.jpg
 

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That rig is 'da bomb'!!!

How cool is that?

An Isuzu tilt cab too!

Is there room to tilt the cab or do you have to remove the living pod?

Man that is SO cool...I want one...build it for me!

:D
 
tx2sturgis said:
...keep in mind that consumer plug-in wattmeters are not lab-quality units and the numbers can get skewed...

As far as reducing fan speed with a resistor, this is not correct...

...most importantly, the inrush 'power' can not be measured with a typical digital meter, they have no ability to do a peak hold in most cases. They usually take one sample per second....Expect the true inrush surge to be 2 or 3 times what the meter can show. Maybe more.

Great info!!   I was positive his numbers had to be inaccurate after reading the posts here..  now I know why, which is so important during the learning process.
Next time I won't be fooled so easily!  :cool:

You guys are the best!
 
IGBT said:
No, we built our RV from complete scratch (welded steel frame, aluminum siding)

That is just the room for solar on the living pod.  If we take off the canoe and kayak we could put another kilowatt or so on the garage/workshop pod for a total potential of 2.5 to 3kW of solar.   Would be a bit overkill maybe.

Those pics are beyond amazing!  Very inspiring!!
 
You can never have enough solar can you IGBT? Lol My 750w system worked great for what it was designed to do but I did have to wait for it to come up to full power. I did not worry about a short term load like the coffee maker but I would wait to run the stove, water heater and A/C. Adding the 435w tilting panel to the truck made a huge difference because I can start using stuff much earlier. It can't cover the A?C alone but it takes a big enough chuck that there is little to be replaced once the whole system is producing.
 
Another thing about the Killawatt readings is the real reading comes after the head pressure builds up. The watts used will go up as it does and get higher on hot days. In the beginning the compressor has little to push against and the reading is lower.
 
itsmeagain said:
 I was positive his numbers had to be inaccurate after reading the posts here..  now I know why, which is so important during the learning process.
Next time I won't be fooled so easily! 

Its not a matter of being 'fooled'...you just have to take certain 'facts' with a grain of salt as they say....

I found the specs for the Watts Up Pro:

wattsup-pro.JPG

No surprises there....
 

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jimindenver said:
Another thing about the Killawatt readings is the real reading comes after the head pressure builds up. The watts used will go up as it does and get higher on hot days. In the beginning the compressor has little to push against and the reading is lower.

That definitely makes sense.   I'm sure the reviewers testing method didn't take that into account at all.


tx2sturgis said:
Its not a matter of being 'fooled'...you just have to take certain 'facts' with a grain of salt as they say....
I found the specs for the Watts Up Pro:
No surprises there....

Amazing they even put a product out that literally states it's inaccurate on the back.   :dodgy:


sometimesido said:

Thanks for the link!   Would be interesting to see how much more effective a window unit would've been for him rather than the portable unit.
Also, careful with holes in the floor of a van.   Theoretically possible for fumes to enter the cabin and suffocate the driver/passengers while in motion. (from what I've read)
 
itsmeagain said:
careful with holes in the floor of a van. Theoretically possible for fumes to enter the cabin and suffocate the driver/passengers while in motion. (from what I've read)
Yes, **must** be able to seal airtight before travel, open up when parked.

Not just CO but rocks, dirt, water.

Screen against bugs as well.
 
IGBT said:
Vanner Equalizer 12V 60amp
Hadn't come across the Equalizer units before, Vanner's good stuff (like all the rest!), thanks for, pointing them out.

Yandina Trollbridge is something similar I've looked at, but doesn't work for continuous 12V loads, and the two half-banks get out of balance.
 
I fundamentally disagree with how difficult this is, having seen several ACs running off solar it just isn't as impossible as you make it seem

$700 750 watts solar
$600 high quality 60 amp controller
$500 4 Trojan T105s
$400 Xantrex Prowatt 2000
$200 miscellaneous
======
$2400

This is all top quality stuff and you can cut quite a bit off this by buying cheaper parts. Lots of people want 400 watts so the leap from there to here is not all that much.

I have 400 watts and 4 agm golf carts to run a microwave. To run an AC All I need to do is add 300 watts ($300) and a Blue Sky 3000i ($300).

For me to get to AC will cost me $600 and some misc. parts. No big deal and I'd do it if I wanted AC.

Actually, I think I will do it just to put an end to these debates! I've been wanting to test and compare flexible panels. I'll order 3, 100-watt panels and do a test!
 
Major variable would be how many hours a day the A/C is running, how hot the weather is, and of course how reliable the sun is.

Just running it during times of strong PV production is certainly less dependant on a huge bank or a genny.
 
akrvbob said:
...
This is all top quality stuff..
Actually, I think I will do it just to put an end to these debates! I've been wanting to test and compare flexible panels. I'll order 3, 100-watt panels and do a test!

I can't thank you enough Bob!!!!

Amazing list! Such a great launching point for detailed research and budget prep!

I know lots of people have pulled off Solar A/C, but to create a guide, or "package", for newbies that's so cost effective, yet based on quality components, is a huge life-changer for a lot of people. If this thread played any role in the motivation to do so, then I'm quite honored.

I know this topic gets posted about almost daily on this board..  which may highlight how significant of an issue it is in some areas.

To take on such a task (and cost) primarily for the benefit of others is a testament to your nature.

Thank you again Bob!
 
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