Old Dodge Experts?

[drivebyandy]

Any old Dodge experts out there on this here forum? By old I mean Vintage Dodges, not necessarily the humans.<br><br>I've got a '77 motorhome with the 360. Runs fine when it's cold.&nbsp; Drives great when I'm at highway speeds. Once it warms up it runs rough at low speed (slowing down to a stop sign/light), or when just completely stopped with the vehicle in Drive. Might idle a little rough in Park and Neutral but you can really notice it when it has load on the engine, such as Reverse or Drive. <br><br>Did most of the normal tune up stuff. Working on checking the timing but can't see the timing marks without removing the power steering pump and a bracket. <br><br>I haven't been able to come up with much online as most people have the opposite problem (runs rough cold, good when warm). <br><br>I just bought this motorhome the 1st of May and I'm reaching a point of frustration that has me thinking about selling it already.

 

[Zil]

Vacuum leak. Could be around the carburetor throttle shaft. Get a rebuilt carburetor, doing your own rebuilt will cost more in the end. Replace vacuum hoses, just do one at a time to get them back in the right place. Be sure to check the power brake booster for the leak.

 

[c_hasbeen]

does it smell like gas when it is running rough? could be the carb is flooding caused by a float<br>if so you can replace the float rather easily and economicly<br>let us know so we can help figure out how to get your rig running good

 

[offroad]

For a VACUUM LEAK that is easy to find.&nbsp; Spray carb cleaner in a few strategic areas while boosting the throttle.&nbsp; if the engine slows when you spray, you just found the vacuum leak.<BR><BR>geta a compression reading for all the cylinders.&nbsp;&nbsp;make sure they are all close to the same.&nbsp; else you could have a head gasket leak that expands when it get warm.<BR>&nbsp;

 

[James AKA Lynx]

Go to the Dodge forum and post.<br><br>Look into the carb mouth. If there is stuff around the valve, Spray with carb cleaner and get a small, NEW wire brush and scrub until clean.<br><br>Bump up idle a little. Clean outside of carb good. Check fuel pump pressure. Change fuel filter. Move all plug wires off any metal and make sure they are not touching each other, if so insulate well.<br><br>New coil? New wires? Clean vacuum advance?<br><br>Let us know. I can go on for a few more if needed.<br><br>James AKA Lynx

 

[highdesertranger]

driveby it sounds like a carb problem.&nbsp; older dodges have carb problems.&nbsp; I am not there to actually diagnose your problem so I can only guess.&nbsp; if it was me and it was the carb I would put a carter carb on it.&nbsp; they are simple,&nbsp; easy to work on and you will notice a gain in power and economy.&nbsp; if I could I would have one on my chevy but kalifornia says no.&nbsp; highdesertranger

 

[BamaDuke]

Agree that the problem is most likely carb/vacuum leak.&nbsp; But, Dodges have those ballast resistors in the ignition circuit, usually near the coil.&nbsp; I had a late 70's D150 with a similar acts-up-when-warm issue.&nbsp; Changed the ballast, about $6, ran like a champ.&nbsp; It's probably the easiest fix to try.<br><br>Bama

 

[Zil]

If the resistor burns out, the van goes to "limp home" mode, but sometimes it just don't work. Carry a spare. I think you need replace the carburetor. Don't try to save pennies on this, just go for it. Been there done that.

 

[drivebyandy]

Wow a lot more people replied to this than I was notified of. Haha. Thanks for all the replies. After messing around with stuff for a while, and getting distracted by other, less pertinent, issues I finally decided to just plop down some money. I had planned to rebuild the carb myself but I like the quick turnaround option of just getting a new (rebuilt) carb. My new one is supposed to arrive tomorrow and if I'm lucky I'll get it swapped in on Friday. If I'm really lucky I'll get it done sooner. <br><br>I plan to check and replace any left over vacuum lines that I haven't already replaced while I have the carb off. With fingers crossed the new carb will fix my problems. <br><br>I replaced the distributor this week too. I had been working on replacing the coil pickup inside and I broke the hidden retaining clip on the underside. And part of the clip is still missing in there somewhere so I just bought a whole new one.<br><br><br>As to the Dodge forum comment I've been chatting with some guys over one on of those too. Talking with a vandweller over there (he might be here too, I don't know). The more knowledge and opinions the better, in my opinion. <br><br><br>For a while there I was getting pretty bummed about what money I had already spent on it and the seemingly little progress I've made. So I took a night of reflection and remembered the dream and why I'm doing this in the first place. Of course there will come a limit where I say forget it if I can't get it to run right, but for now it's still worth putting more money into. <br><br>

 

[drivebyandy]

While my next step later this week&nbsp;is the new carb, and I'm hoping it fixes it, for the record I will just mention (since it was asked) I've already replaced plugs, wires, cap, rotor, distributor, air filter, fuel pump, fuel filters (2), power steering pump, both belts, breather cap, an array of vacuum hoses. Only thing from actual ignition I haven't replaced yet is the coil itself. I had planned to, but a guy at work talked me out of it for now. <br><br><br>But anyway. Banking on the new carb at this point. Will keep you posted.