Need all of your sage advice please

[MPoe]

Hello there everyone, I am a 49 year old single female Is a 1992 Dodge Ram 250 Day Camper a good choice for living in? is $3500 dollars a good price? odometer is [font=Arial, sans-serif]185960, I will appreciate any responses, [/font]

 

[rvpopeye]

Welcome aboard MPoe!

Sounds like a lot of miles on the clock for $3500.
Would something like that be a good rig for vandwelling ?
It would be perfect for one person and too big or too small for the next.
You'll have to tell us a lot more about your idea of what you will be doing with it and where you want to go.......

Can you post any pics of it ??

 

[MPoe]

https://olympic.craigslist.org/cto/5724686305.html

 

[wagoneer]

Hello Mpoe kinda rhymes,,, ignore the miles to the point of if not knowing the history/maintenance how does it sound going down the road? squeaky noisy loud? the signs will appear if you listen. we all gotta lot of miles but more important not all of us were abused. Do you like me ? if you do, work with me to make me work for you. every machine needs attention.

 

[wagoneer]

Just read my own post, sht. some deep stuff. hey HDR liking your new image

 

[MPoe]

no, I am not handy with a wrench at all and it is a bit fluffy for me as well. I have been looking for a chevy/ford plain white van but I am not handy so I guess when I saw this it looked like some of the work was done for me but I am still learning and just didn't know if this was a good choice or not. I just don't know what to be looking for as far as engines and mileage.  I don't even know whether to buy from an owner or dealer. I have a car that I could maybe trade (with cash) at a dealer. or should I buy from an owner and sell my car? I am just starting this whole process and unfortunately google doesn't answer all of my questions. So any advice is being greatly appreciated.

 

[highdesertranger]

welcome MPoe. you would be better off buying from a private party and selling your car. but have whatever you buy have it looked over by a mechanic you trust, unless you can examine it yourself. highdesertranger

 

[eDJ_]

Welcome to the CRVL Forum  

This time of year loads of Fleeted White Vans hit the market as they are sold off and new models are purchased
to replace them with.  Power Companies, Phone Companies, and every firm with a delivery fleet in between
sell them off in order to get the first new year models that hit the lots and low ball prices are given to Fleet Buyers in order to get the things out where the public will see them.
 
I'm seeing the lots around in my area building up with basic white fleet Vans 5 years of age where the accountants have written them off.  They may be sold to brokers for $ 1K to $ 1.5K   and they wind up on the Lots displaying a $3500 price tag. (which is of course negotiable if you aren't talking trade in)
 

If you are looking at Fords,  you may want a V8 over the V6 engines.  The AOD transmissions which comes with the V8 is the heavier duty model too. 

Keep your eye on "The Trading Post"  threads near the bottom of the thread too.  Members post links to Craig's List offerings there all the time.    You can find "Automobile Brokers" who can find what you want for a fee.  You tell them how much you want to pay,  the vehicle and features you want, mileage you will consider, and how far you are willing to travel to purchase it,  and they will find you something.    you just need to Google for them in your State. 

As for the Van you posted,  those were nice for trips with a family.   Ultimate in luxury travel if you're crew is staying in motels.    But a bare bones fixed up Cargo Van rig in white is hard to beat.  Some plywood flooring
installed, foam insulated carpeting,  and a comfortable bed in the back would be the bare bones starting point.

I welcome you to view my websites below for more ideas.   I've used this basic setup successfully for some time.  Much of it is simple re-purposed items available in flea markets & yard sales.

When you are looking at mileage,   consider how much driving you want to do in the future and add that to what's showing on the odometer.  Some of us use a 2-2-2 system where we don't drive any more than 2 hours every third day. (first day start early and drive around sight seeing, visiting sites, museums, Libraries, etc.  From like 7 am to 2 pm.  By 2 pm you are settled in some camp somewhere, preferably a free area.  You are there for two days before moving on.   Thus the 2-2-2)   Many State parks offer Senior Days from Monday thru Thursday low priced.  

All the best.

 

[cyndi]

MPoe! Welcome to the CRVL forums! I don't think I would spend that much on a vehicle with that many miles. Keep looking. You can do better!

To help you learn the ins and outs of these forums, this "Tips & Tricks" post lists some helpful information to get you started. We look forward to hearing more from you.

 

[kayell]

I've bought a lot of used cars over the years. Every single one I've followed the recommendations for self inspecting a vehicle published by Consumer Reports. http://www.consumerreports.org/cro/2012/12/inspecting-a-used-car/index.htm

You can eliminate a lot of unsuitable vehicles by taking them for a test drive and then following that list. Having an extra person with you helps. Then you don't waste money for a mechanic on obviously unsuitable cars. On all but my last car I bought based on the results of that testing alone, but they were all very cheap cars. When I bought my last car, a used Prius, I took it to a mechanic also because it was a high ticket purchase. I still drive it and love it.

Two other things to check - Carfax http://www.carfax.com/ to run the VIN and determine the history of the car- accidents, number of owners, flood damage, etc. VERY worth the money. Do this even before you do the test drive if you can get the VIN ahead of time. I was able to rule out a lovely looking car because it had been totaled in a flood and then fixed up for sale. BAD juju for a car formerly flooded.

Also Kelly Blue Book http://www.kbb.com/ to find the worth of the vehicle based on make, model, style, accesories and condition. Examining the condition specification will you lots of negotiating angles.

 

[TrainChaser]

Have it checked by a mechanic. They have those gadgets that they can hook up to it, as well as knowing far more about vehicles than the rest of us do. Around here (W. WA), it costs about $125. If there are things wrong with it that can be fixed for not too much money, you can use that info as leverage to get the price down.

You DON'T tell them that you plan to live in it. Tell them it's a little too frou-frou for what you want. Don't run off at the mouth -- verbal diarrhea doesn't do you any good.

Also, the price you pay for a van is one deal. The price you get for your car is another deal, totally separate. First, you negotiate the deal on the van. When that's done, you ask what they will give you for your car. If you're okay with the price on the car, have them deduct it from the price of the van. If it's not, thank them nicely and sell it elsewhere or on Craigslist.

 

[Headache]

If you are looking at Fords,  you may want a V8 over the V6 engines.  The AOD transmissions which comes with the V8 is the heavier duty model too.

I just wanted to add to this a bit.  Welcome to the board MPoe.  I'm new to posting here as well.

The AOD was a non-electronic overdrive transmission that Ford produced from 81-93.  It was "okay" but your talking to an old mechanical C6 and Powerslide(GM product) gal here.  The harder they shift the longer they last!

When looking at Ford vans(I only do so because of leg/foot room in the drivers seat) be cautious of the years 89-97.  Fords first foray into electronically controlled transmissions produced the E4OD which indicated an electronic 4 speed with overdrive.  This transmission is also commonly known in mechanics circles as E4 OH Dead!  It was a very temperamental transmission that often times croaked conveniently right after the warranty expired.  Not that there weren't a few that defied this and lived long lives but if you find a van with this transmission and it never had a modified rebuild, you'll want to make sure to have a nice little nest egg saved for a GOOD tranny rebuild with the proper modified parts(which is smart planning anyway regardless of vehicle) if you plan to keep the van.  If you're looking at working your way up and not going to keep the van for a long time a standard rebuild in order to sell it is fine if it ever came to that.

In 1987 Ford started transitioning to a more "improved" version in the 4R100 model which was the replacement for the E4OD.  The 4R100 did indeed improve on the E4ODs weaknesses, but came with it's own set of issues.  In comparison those issues were less frequent and didn't occur as often so Ford did succeed in improving their electronic transmission line "kind of".  If I'm looking at 2 older vans with a choice of trannys my preference is for the 4R100.  The transmissions for the most part have vastly improved since.

In looking at older Dodge vans(usually pre-2005ish) almost always the immediate problem that comes up is the front end.  I can't tell you how many countless Dodge shops I've been in with a van to be inspected and the first thing the mechanics are looking at is the front end.  However, this is a relatively "easy" and "cheap" issue(as in about $3500 to rebuild the entire front end and align it in a shop vs. a $5-5.5k ish modified E4OD rebuild in a tranny shop) in comparison to the cost of a tranny and as long as you purchase better than stock parts, keep it aligned properly and stay on top of tire condition and pressure(which you should be doing anyway) the front end weaknesses should be alleviated.


Now, as far as the rest...odometer is a great indication of age but not of maintenance.  Right now I'm driving a 2001 E150 with 234,000+ miles on it and if it wasn't for the exhaust leak it would sound about like it came off the dealers lot.  The first owner cared for it VERY well, the 2nd not so much.  It was treated "okay" by the 2nd owners until another vehicle took it's place and then the van was treated less than ideally.  Luckily that lasted only a couple of years when I got it and I've been slowly repairing things as I go.  The last 2 major issues before I can head out into the sunset are tires and the exhaust. 

However, while "play camping" in it in the yard I'm quickly discovering that my being able to stand up while living in a vehicle is becoming a lot more important than I imagined it would be and it's my back telling me this so I can't just put it on the backburner.  I'm in the process of getting both my van and another vehicle ready to sell or trade in order to acquire a vehicle I can stand up in.  This really did come as a surprise to me.  I very highly suggest two things before you do this:

1) See if you can borrow or rent a van and use it for at least a few days and make sure it's not some posh, decked out ride.  Really "rough it" doing this.  You can rent a UHaul van for $20 a day in most urban areas.  I'm not kidding, park it in the yard so you're not racking up miles and using gas, and camp in your yard for a week.  If you can't manage a week in it you just narrowed your vehicle field by a significant margin.  At the very least issues that may be important to you will make themselves known and you'll either fully be committed to the lifestyle after making some adjustments and/or you'll find out fast that crapping in a bucket isn't for you.

2) You need to figure out which of these 3 people you are/willing to become:

  a) No mechanical experience at all and unable to learn(hey some just are not mechanically inclined no matter what) but you will pay for anything that comes up.
  b) Willing to learn basic skills and maintenance and pay for the rest.
  c) Can rebuild a carburetor or clean up an injector in your sleep.

I'm definitely a "B" person.  I used to be a mechanic before I became a truck driver.  I'm disabled now.  There are some days where I can't even bend over to check tire pressure and others where I can sit down on a bucket and rebuild drum brakes in the back of a truck stop.  I HAD to accept the fact that in order to live in a vehicle I have to be willing to pay for whatever mechanical issues came up that I could not do.  Part of my reason for living in a vehicle(unfortunately most likely my van and it doesn't have a high top) is to save that money and have it on hand just in case.  However, I'm doing my best to diligently repair any issues I know of NOW so they don't become bigger issues later.  My van will be my lifeline, my shelter from storms and safety net.  It will be my castle and I will have 2 small animals with me.  Their safety, security and ability to thrive also depends on my abilities to problem solve and be able to pay for it if I can't and with my damaged noggin that can be a test of wills.

I VERY highly recommend you become a "B" person before you enter this lifestyle.  It will save you countless hours and dollars by learning even rudimentary preventative maintenance skills but you HAVE to budget or at least be prepared to face the inevitable; we are driving a mechanical creation made by human beings; it is bound to break and test our wills and wallets at some point no matter how prepared we are.  Since you are in the beginning of the process it is VERY important for you to learn some basic "tire kicking" and find yourself a mechanic you can trust to inspect your potential new home.  If a seller balks at letting you have it inspected and won't negotiate that then walk away without any guilt whatsoever.

Another thing about my van is the engine but it's a quirk you should consider.  It's actually a quite good engine(5.4, don't buy one with a 4.6) with a very annoying and expensive issue.  It has what are called "COPS" which stands for coil over plugs.  I won't go into details about them so I don't overwhelm you but lets just say that if you aren't mechanically inclined and can't pull a good used one out of a boneyard without damaging it you might want to avoid these engines just because you'll get robbed blind if a COP goes bad and you don't have the knowledge to stand up to an abusive shop.

If you have anymore questions please ask!  The only stupid one is the one you didn't ask!  Sorry for the novel!

 

[Headache]

...odometer is a great indication of age but not of maintenance.

I misstated that.  I meant to say it's a great indicator of USE not age.  Comparing the mileage in consideration of the year of the vehicle is a good way to figure out if it's been rode hard or barely used.

 

[highdesertranger]

very good post Headache. highdesertranger

 

[Headache]

In 1987 Ford started transitioning to a more "improved" version in the 4R100 model which was the replacement for the E4OD.

I really dislike not being able to edit my posts because I am dyslexic.  I understand why that's the rule it's just frustrating to find mistakes after the 15 min deadline has passed.  Realistically I end up editing my "big" posts like from the one I quoted upwards of 12 times from the mistakes I catch after I've posted it.

That year should have been 1997.  /face palm