Need advice on what Solar system equip to buy

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Susan, The biggest mistake I see in many solar set-up projects is buying the components or a kit before understanding their actual needs by doing an energy audit first.  Often times they buy solar panels because their friend has ex amount or they read online so and so has ex amount.  That may or may not work for those folks, but your needs are likely to be different. To accomplish and energy audit you can look at each appliance to be used and find their respective power draw (amps and watts).  This info can be found usually on the appliance itself, sometimes in the manual and also on the companies website.  A better way is to first buy a quality battery monitor, install it and then use your rig and see what the impact on your batteries are.  The beauty of this is it will give you the most realistic idea of energy you use.  Once you have that information, then you can spec out a system that will work best for you.  Another mistake I often see made is assuming and buying and focusing on more panels vs building efficiencies into the system by shorter runs and larger cables.  As an example when I was building my solar for my previous travel trailer, I kept hearing by the "experts" a 3% loss in voltage was the standard, yet when I did the math, a 3% loss translated into buying an additional panel.  I looked at larger cables and reduced the voltage loss to under 1% and had a system that performed well without having to buy the extra panels some were saying I would need.  As far as batteries go, again the size of the bank required will be dictated by your anticipated usage and allowing for less optimal solar days, ie. clouds & extensive shade.
 
I do it like this,
1. figure out your usage like Bruce said.
2. size your battery bank according to your usage. remember you should never take your batteries below 50% of their capacity. it's better not to take them below 70-80%.
3. size your panels to your battery bank, 1 watt per ah of battery is a good starting point. in winter 2w/ah is better.

now of course you need to take into consideration the amount of space you have for panels, space for batteries, etc. remember it's easier and cheaper to conserve power usage then to go all out with your system. highdesertranger
 
Before hitting the big Amazon purchase button I am asking for your experienced help in the items needed for the install and also if these are appropriate for the job....please.  I have limited access to shopping in the small town where I live so ordering in a majority of what would be needed is my best option.


I plan on building out as large of a system as my wallet will allow but believe that this will be a good start. My main electrical items are:
Fantasti Fan              2 amp  12 volt
Lenovo Yoga 710 @ 45W -65W 2.5 amp
Google Nexus 6P @  15 W   3 amp  5 Volt
led lights                 36W     12 volt
Refrigerator              30-36W      will purchase something small and efficient/ the best I can afford eventually.
E-Cigarette          not a clue but I have many back up batteries and can charge ahead when driving to limit my charging time on solar.
My sink will be hand pump and my cooking and heating will be via propane.

This is a large investment as many of you know and I am the type to be a bit anal about taking care of my possessions. I will be monitoring this system like a hawk so it can last 


https://www.amazon.com/gp/cart/view.html/ref=lh_cart_vc_btn  <<<<<Link to my Amazon cart not all items are pictured below.


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My Nissan has a 400 watt inverter built into the rear but is connected to the starting battery with a switch located by the drivers seat. Need to spend some time on the Nissan forum learning about my power options for the isolator as that will be my next step.
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Thank you to everyone that has offered input so far and yes at times it has been a bit overwhelming. You should see me staring at my laptop for 30 minutes just trying to figure out what some of the alphabet code/names for some of these items are. Yep I am a total newb.
 
I think you need to make a list o' links to the items, that is a generic link to each of our own carts, not yours.
 
frater secessus said:
What are the two other fuse holders for?  I would have thought the 12-circuit fuse block would handle everything.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01FOEFYYS/
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01DYQM6EO/

was not sure if I needed to put a 20a fuse between the batteries and inverter and one between the controller and batteries. Does the 12 circuit fuse box make them redundant? 

Also, I should order some extra wires? (10 or 16) to run the fan down to the fuse box.
 
200 watts should do it but 300 is better. But, like I said, if you can't afford it you can start with 200 watts and add the third panel when you can. I thought that Sams Club sold the Duracell marine or golf cart batteries as AGM? If not then go to Batteries Plus Bulbs I think they have them.
 
No to ciggie ports, use Blue Sea's twist lock version, backward compatible with the horrible original style
 
Go with Sam's Club or Batteries+ Duracell golf car 6v x2 betteries
 
akrvbob said:
200 watts should do it but 300 is better. But, like I said, if you can't afford it you can start with 200 watts and add the third panel when you can. I thought that Sams Club sold the Duracell marine or golf cart batteries as AGM? If not then go to Batteries Plus Bulbs I think they have them.

I have looked at both stores in Mobile and Pensacola, the prices for anything AGM are higher than Amazon. Batteries plus had cheaper ones but  they are not sealed as far as I can tell. I would love to pay less than the 168.00 per 100 ah and have a smaller footprint but am at loss.
 
You wont need those add-a-circuit taps, unless you plan on adding accessories to the factory fuse panel under the dash of your van.
 
Home Depot has a couple of 100 watt panel kits on sale right now.

Just go to home depot website and type in 'grape solar'.

Free shipping to a nearby HD store, but you would have to pay local tax, of course.
 
VagaboundSusan said:
was not sure if I needed to put a 20a fuse between the batteries and inverter and one between the controller and batteries. Does the 12 circuit fuse box make them redundant? 

Also, I should order some extra wires? (10 or 16) to run the fan down to the fuse box.

20A sounds right for the CC-to-Battery connection;  others who know more will chime in.

I assumed the 100A fuses were for big stuff like the inverter.  A 20A fuse would pop at something like 240W and your inverter is 1500W.

In my case it was cheapest to buy wire by the roll.  If you have extra you can sell it, trade it, etc.  I used 16ga for my fan and other light loads in the van.
 
Susan, Before making your purchases you owe it to yourself to read some more on solar.  The following links are excellent sources of sound and accurate info on solar.

https://handybobsolar.wordpress.com/  This one comes with a warning, the material is somewhat wordy and the author has an axe to grind, but if you stick with it you will be rewarded with some very helpful & sound information.

http://amsolar.com/diy-rv-solar-instructions/  This is another source of helpful info and a source to purchase solar equipment.  They have great customer service and some help on the phone if you have questions.


https://www.solar-electric.com/learning-center/ These folks at Northern Arizona Wind & Sun also very good and a good source to buy from.


http://www.backwoodssolar.com/learning-center Another good source of info and they too sell components


If after wading through any of this material, you still are uncertain have more questions than answers, consider a solar kit which can offer you solar capability without having to fully understand all the basic components, how they work and interact.

Here are a couple of links for good options in kits.  While the prices are tempting, I would stay away from Harbor Freight and other similar sources that offer cheap kits, if you will be planning to rely on solar extensively. 

https://www.renogy.com/

https://www.zampsolar.com/

Hope this helps, best of luck.
 
That link didn't work for me

Both models are

Duracell Golf Car Battery


Group Size GC2, Item # 347700

Group Size EGC2, Item # 347631
 
John61CT said:
That link didn't work for me

Both models are

Duracell Golf Car Battery


Group Size GC2, Item # 347700

Group Size EGC2, Item # 347631

[font=aktiv-grotesk-std, sans-serif]Duracell Golf Car Battery - Group Size GC2 [/font]
[color=rgba(66, 66, 66, 0.8)]by Duracell | Item  #: 347700 | Model #:  GC2 |
[font=Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif][size=small][font=Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif][font=BVCustom,]★★★★★★★★★★[font=BVCustom,]4.3 out of 5 stars. Read reviews.[/font][/font] 
[size=x-small]4.3 
https://www.samsclub.com/sams/durac.../prod3590228.ip?xid=plp:product:1:7#histogram
 ([size=x-small]35)
 
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