My project this week

[SternWake]

My friend is a stick and bricker, who has a 4x4 truck, and an ARB chest fridge.

He  wants a capable powerpack, that can also be used in two other vehicles, so nothing permanently mounted.

So I blew his mind with all the options when trying to inform him just how far it could be taken and trying to see just how far he wanted to take it.

Basically I got the Go ahead, and his credit card, to order what I thought best, within reason.

I'll be running 2 awg cable to his 160 amp alternator, through a huge Winch connector capable of passing 500 amps+ for short durations

A Lifeline group31 XT 125 AH AGM  battery will be the heart of the system

A Progressive Dynamics PD9245 converter will be the grid powered charging source, and while not a perfect charger for the Lifeline AGM, it is a pretty good match, and can be left plugged into the grid indefinitely to float the battery after it reaches full charge.  It could also be powered by a Honda 1000 watt generator which I recommended in the first place, which he might acquire at a later date.

A Wagan 400 watt Pure sine wave inverter will provide clean 120vAC from the AGM.

BlueSeas fuse block, USB power supply, and ciggy receptacles, and a manual ON/OFF switch will be used.

An ANL fuse holder with 120 amp fuse will protect the 2awg cabling.

I will mount all components in a burly plywood enclosure with proper ventilation for converter, inverter, and battery.

There will be a stout handle(s) as it will weigh 100Lbs or so, and many different methods to attach it securely in any of the three vehicles.  

At this point, a Voltmeter will have to suffice for guessing/estimating the battery state of charge.  He was reluctant to go with an ammeter or amp hour counter at this point, but I will leave room for their addition later.  His eyes crossed a bit when I started going into battery care and estimating state of charge, So I am just said, for now, turn off the fridge when you see 12.1v while the fridge compressor is running, unless it is an emergency.  Better to have reduced the battery capacity than get food poisoning from spoiled food.

I'll have some 45 amp Anderson Powerpole connectors ready to be employed, as he plans on getting a good air compressor, and he will also be getting a renogy suitcase 100 watts of Solar, or similar, at a later date, and these connectors will make things simple to connect.

I'll be adding alternator charge feeds to his other vehicles at a later date, So I will then be able to upgrade the power pack  as well if he wants an Ammeter.

His wife was not so stoked on the price of all these components, and then their power went out, and then, by candle light, she agreed. He's been pushing this as kind of like an earthquake kit too.

Without the 352+tax AGM battery the component cost, so far is 665$.
 Glue screws, plywood, 10awg, and various other connectors will also up the final material cost.
He will get a bro deal on labor, but it will still be a significant amount of labor as I still need to design it all, to fit and be ergonomic, well, as ergonomic as a hundred pound plywood box can be.

But I'm kind of thinking that such a product might be desirable for vehicular dwellers.

If a lesser Deka intimidator AGM battery were used as the heart, then lesser cabling costs, and charger costs would lower the price and ability of the unit, but not really the labor.

Anyway, it's been a while since I've looked forward to a project, and this one basically encompasses many of my carpentry and electrical skills and knowledge.

Now I got to get a better handle on Lithium batteries, as Lead Acid's days are numbered.

 

[Bela's Mom]

Sounds like your in for some fun.  And thanks for recommending the Progressive Dynamics converter.  I have been looking at that one for some time to upgrade the old Parallax I have now.  The PD 9245 will slide right in the same space and provide three stage charging instead of the single stage, too high float charging I have now.  I thought the charging parameters on the PD were very close to the ones for my Lifeline battery; it's good to know that you approve as I value your opinion.  

Have fun!

 

[ZoNiE]

X2 on the PD9245. I Put one in my old Motorhome to replace the "Buzz Box."
waaaay nicer to my batteries than the WFCO POS in my Trailer.

 

[SternWake]

I'm hoping the PD9245 works as advertised.  It should since it will be very close to the battery over thick cabling, but there are some reports that they do not meet their maximum output.


It was one of the items that was not eligible for Amazon prime, so I am not sure when it is going to arrive, where as I ordered a bunch of other stuff on Friday night at 9:30 and it arrived on Sunday, USPS.  I might have to make a cardboard mockup to help envision locating it within the powerpack.

Those single voltage 13.8 parallaxes are battery killers.

If I set my  40 amp Adjustable voltage powersupply to 13.8v, then the amps into a depleted battery begin to taper within a minute, but set it to 14.5 and it holds 40 amps for a half hour or more.  

So 13.8v is neither good for floating, nor fast charging.

Lifelines and AGMs in general benefit from high amp recharges.

 

[SternWake]

The Lifeline Battery was delivered today, as well as the PD9245, and the voltmeter/Ammeter combo, and the fuse block.  


I am not sure how to read the date code on the battery, but have an E-mail out to lifeline and will report back.

The battery read 13.0v, and I believe they threw it on a charger in the not distant past.

I put it on my adjustable voltage power supply, and it took more amperage for longer than I thought it would/should.  Not sure if it is older and less than fully charged, or left the factory less than fully charged, or is just some new weird battery behavior.

I am Discharging  it now in my Van, and at rates over 6.25 amps, where peukert raises his ugly law on this 125Ah battery.  I plan to take 62.5AH from it and then see how high the voltage rebounds after a few hours later.  Lets hope for 12.2 and higher.

Not a perfect capacity test, but close enough to get an Idea.

The PD9245 came with a remote Pendant.  This pendant has a button and a light on it.  Via this button One can choose the desired voltage.  The higher the voltage, the more amps can flow.  One quick press of the button forces the converter to take the battery to 14.4V.  If the battery is depleted the PD9245 will put out 45 amps until battery voltage rises to about 14.2, when the amps begin to taper.  Where the amps taper depend on how thickly cabled and the length of those cables.  Short and fat will allow faster charging.

When in 'Boost' mode( attempting to achieve 14.4v) the green light is Solid, no blinking.
One can hold the button in for a few seconds, and the light will start blinking.  The Maximum voltage now allowed is 13.6v, and the unit makes only what the battery needs to maintain 13.6v. 

One can hold the button even longer, and force 'storage' mode where it just maintains the battery at 13.2v.

It will do these stages on its own, but user override is much appreciated and can drastically cut down on recharge times.  A lot more amps can flow into a depleted battery at 14.4, vs 13.6.

PD throws out some marketing mumbojumbo in their instructions.  In 13.2V 'storage' mode, after 18 hours, it will raise battery voltage to 14.4v for 15 minutes.  this causes gassing, and mixing of the electrolyte.  When sitting, a flooded battery's electrolyte stratifies, with the stronger acid sinking to the bottom of the cells and it eats the bottoms of lead plates faster. At gassing voltages, the bubbles rising through the electrolyte, mixing it up.
PD calls this bot Equalizing, and at another point says it prevents sulfation.  Neither of these terms is accurate as Equalizing is a forced overcharge at 15.5v+, and preventing sulfation and preventing stratification are not the same thing.  

If the cables are not short and fat, or lets say too long and not thick enough the PD might not try and go into Boost/14.4v
If the battery is Above 12.8v when the converter was plugged in, it might not choose 14.4v on its own.
I had my old retired flooded battery which was depleted 24 AH on a schumacher charger 12 amp setting for an hour before hooking the PD9245 to it, and the PD chose 13.6v, but a quick button pushing had it try for 14.4v and 45 amps took it there.

I am temporarily using about 1 foot of SAE 4 gauge, which is thinner than 4 AWG between converter and battery terminals.

I had to test the new Ammeter/ Voltmeter combo.

http://www.amazon.com/DROK-4-5-30V-...sim_469_5?ie=UTF8&refRID=1PAVVGA9NT43X107TV5S

It is quite simple to hook up.  It only reads current in one direction.  It reads zero if current is reversed.

I put one end of the shunt on the threaded stud and bolted it down.  The opposite end of the shunt went to the battery (-)

There are 3 wires from the remote display, red, black and yellow.  Red to the (+) terminal, and Black to the smaller phillips screw on the converter side of the shunt, and yellow to the phillips screw on the battery side of the shunt.

It read 35.1 amps when my clamp on Ammeter read 34.43 amps.  It can be calibrated, both voltage and current by little adjustment potentiometers on the back of the display.

When charging batteries, voltage is well less than half the story, but knowing the voltage at the battery terminals, and the Amperage flowing at that voltage, Pretty much tells the full story if you know how to read it.

Each battery will accept a different amount of Amps when nearing full charge.  A 100AH flooded battery might reach 100% charge, as measured by a Hydrometer, when it accepts say 1.1 amps at 14.4v.  Lifeline says that when their battery needs 0.5 amps or less, for a 100AH battery at 14.4v and 77F, it can be considered fully charged.

The flooded batteries will always require more amperage than the AGM to be held at absorption voltages, at the end of the absorption voltage phase.

With Flooded batteries, one should take note of this amp number when the Specific gravity, compensated for temperature, quits rising.  Then in the future, you will know that if it is accepting ~5 amps at 14.4, it is say 90% charged, but if taking only 1.3amps, it is ~98% + charged.

When you know these numbers, and the battery ages, the amps required to maintain 14.4V will be higher and higher, eventually so high it is obvious something is not right.  At this point you can go feel the battery and it will likely be hot, and perhaps hottest on the bottom of the cells.  The battery is now on its last legs.  Plan on replacing very soon.  It can short a cell at any point, or perhaps it can keep shallow cycling for another few months.  Hard to say, but the deeper the cycling at this point the less likely it is to last.

Since this PD9245 allows the user to hold the battery at 14.4v, and if there is no loads on the 12v system when charging the battery, one can determine a lot from an Ammeter plumbed inline on the (-) cable.

With voltage alone one is near blind, but  a display of both voltage and amperage flowing at that voltage, one can see.

 

[IGBT]

SternWake, I am using the same Lifeline 125AH batteries in our setup (two in the main pod, one in the garage pod).   They have a fairly low self discharge, so if they read close to 13 volts, it may not mean they were charged extremely recently.   Mine arrived from the shipper at over 12.9 volts.

I was told they don't ship them fully formed (probably not the right word) and it would take 10 cycles or so before you see the full capacity.   Lifeline charts show a 1000 cycle life if you take the battery down to 50%, which is 3 years of pretty heavy use or a decade of lighter use.  A good battery choice IMO.

 

[SternWake]

IGBT,


I think it was you who turned me on to the fact that there were two Lifeline group 31's, one with 105AH and the other with 125AH.

I got an Email from Lifeline yesterday morning telling me that the battery was manufactured in June 2015, so it is as fresh as can be.

It also performed quite admirably in my capacity test.

Over 8.5 hours I discharged it to ~50% state of charge

I took, according to my RC watt meter:

62.864 AH from the lifeline.
 That would be an average draw of 7.4 amps, where it achieves its 125AH rating at 6.25 amps.  So Peukert should have gotten in there and swung his evil  spiked hammer at the battery capacity balloon.

It had touched 12.01v under loads approaching 15 amps near the end of the test.

Once i removed all loads at 8.5 hours, battery voltage instantly rebounded to 12.23v
And 6 hours later it had rebounded to 12.37V.

Lifeline says 50% open circuit voltage is 12.19V, So if my test is accurate at all, this battery exceeded its stated capacity by a good number.

A true capacity test would be a 6.25 amp load for 20 hours and the battery kept at exactly 77F, so my 8.5 hour 7.4 amp average load to ~ 50% will hardly win me any metals.  All I can say is that I have done similar 50% load tests on other batteries and none of them would have scored as high as this Lifeline.  Quite the battery in my opinion.

The progressive Dynamics charger, PD9245, is supposed to go no higher than 14.4v, yet mine will top out at 14.56V.  This is too high when battery temperature climbs above ~80F so the owner of this powerpack will be informed to only plug in to charge in temperatures well below that.  

My Ammeter voltmeter combo is a bit disappointing in that it does not read low currents very well, but perhaps that was my temporary hook up, crushing stranded wire under set screws rather than crimped and soldered ring terminals on prepped mating surfaces.

Getting all the components into a compact casing which allows for access to the electricals, and making it strong enough, and ergonomic in use is proving to be a challenge.  I'm really spending a lot of time chin scratching as I refuse to cut any corners.

While I've taken a thousand measurements of the confining aspects of intended location, I wound up just building a cardboard mock up so I could envision it and move things around within it, and imagine moving it in and out of intended location weighing 100Lbs.  A lumbar disk rupturer for sure if it were to fight installation or extraction, so  good strong grab handles and clearance to swing it into place are paramount. What is the point in having this battery pack if the owner is crippled with back pain when loading the powerpack into the vehicle for the outing. 

Also I am using a Manual switch for paralleling it with the vehicle battery and alternator.  I wanted this switch to be easily reached from driver's seat by reaching around the backrest, and the cardboard mock up allowed a mindless precision to be achieved in regards to this.

One concern I am having issues with is if the top were ever used as a cup holder and the cup spilled.  I don't think I can make it 100% kid or pet proof in this regard.  Flat surfaces will always be used as tables.

I wound up grinding out a set of Dies on my Harbor fright Hydraulic crimper.  The dies as is, are way too small for 2awg thick walled lugs and will pinch 'ears' into the Lugs, and this is not acceptable.  I removed a bit too much material fromn the dies when grinding and filing, but I wound up folding aluminum foil into many layers to reduce the clearance and achieved a beautiful crimp. Probably the best I have achieved with this Sub par tool.

 

[66788]

I use the Harbor Freight 8 ton crimping tool and find that the little "flats" produced on the sides of the copper connectors do not hamper the holding power of the connector. I have used primarily #4 stranded cable and there is no way I can pull the connectors off with great force. I think that the flats form a more positive connection than trying to swage a round connection.

Try a pull test in foot pounds of force on both types of connections and see how the results turn out.

 

[SternWake]

A proper crimp has no Ears. I too have allowed ears to form on Some terminations when I did not have the proper sized die or want to spend a lot more time rotating and crimp and weakening the metal be reforming it time and again, and there is no way to mechanically remove the wire from an 'eared' crimp.

An Eared crimp is better than a hammer crimp, or just crushing a connector over wire in a vice, but it is nowhere near as good an electrical or mechanical connection as a c proper hexagonal earless crimp.

The 'ears', can also have sharp edges which can cut though the heat shrink, or if filed off will compromise strength of the crimp.

Such a crimped lug/ terminal can be 'just fine' for connections passing limited current, but would not pass an ABYC inspection, and that is what I am shooting for. Minimal voltage drop, maximum strength and durability and longevity.

Check out all four pages of MaineSail's tutorial on crimping marine terminals:

http://www.pbase.com/mainecruising/battery_cables

At the end of page 3, and into page 4, he reviews the harbor fright hydraulic crimper.

I'm shooting for ideal, not adequate.

 

[IGBT]

Meh, I also use the Horrible Freight crimper to do my crimps.   I did end up using the 0 AWG die to crimp 2AWG and the 2AWG for 4AWG.  It still puts some ears* on but I was able to move a 1000 pound lathe across the floor with a 2AWG wire crimp with no visible movement of the crimped copper.   It is worlds above a hammer crimp.

I use the heat shrink with the glue inside it.  It has extra heavy walls and hides the ears anyway

*I don't lean on the crimper with all my weight to try to get the full 10 tons of force, so my ears might not be pinched as flat and sharp as some of you may have

 

[SternWake]

Grinding out the dies for larger wire was easier than expected, I just took a smidge too much, but my goal is 'earless' crimps.

The 0awg HF die is great for 4awg regular thickness, but none of the other Dies match perfectly with 8 awg with is the only other size I've used it for yet.

The 8's I achieve earless by starting with larger and moving down one size.

Rotating the crimp in the die by anything but 180 degrees is fighting the ideal desired end result.

 

[IGBT]

Forgot to mention I ran 200 amps through a short section of 2AWG with one of my crimped connectors for several minutes with no or little heating of the connection.

200 squared is 40,000.   Multiply that by an R of 0.01 ohms and you would get 400 watts, which would have burned my fingers to a crisp.   It felt more like 4 watts (maybe), or a connector resistance of 0.0001 ohm.

Note it would be hard to actually measure 0.0001 ohm because even 200 amps would only generate 20mV across the connection.  My Fluke 189 probably could do that, but really I would need to calibrate to a known shunt to be sure.

 

[SternWake]

I really enjoy these RC Wattmeters.  They have their limitations of course, and cannot be considered 100% accurate, but still they are good tools to have.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0..._m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_r=0CNDGJW5Y84JH2DE8DFJ

i have one on my Meanwell RSP-500-15 adjustable voltage power supply output.

I have one for hooking inline on anything which i've added Anderson powerpoles to.

I bought one for this current project, to give the owner a good idea of how much he has depleted from his battery.

Tonight I decided I would remove the 12awg aluminum leads, and install 8awg tinned marine wire leads with 45 amp powerpoles onto the new one.

I have done this twice previously, successfully, and I have only gotten better at soldering since then.

BUt for one thing.  One horrendous decision long ago came back to bit me.

I bought Bernzomatic lead free solder at Home despot.

The first time I used it I hated it.  I should have thrown it away then and there.

But, I tried to use it again tonight. 

I ruined the GTpowermeter by overheating it, and I attribute it solely to the solder which seems to melt about 200 degrees hotter than real solder, that has Lead in it.

When it cooled, before I added the powerpoles, i touched the leads to a battery and POP!

I tried a slightly different clone version of the original 'Watt's up" inline meter and the one I ruined was slightly different than my previous 2, and I just ordered a slightly different model, linked to above, and new Solder with good old Lead in it.

I hate wasting money.  money wasted on worthless solder, and the solder cost me another 20 dollar bill as it ruined a project, and I have to buy real solder now too.

Grrrrrrrrr.

Anyway these meters dislpay
Amps
Volts
Amp hours
Watt hours
Peak amps
peak watts
Minimum voltage.

They only count current flowing in one direction
They only count upto 68 amp hours or so before reverting to zero
They do not do well registering very light currents,From the 0.5 amp range they read low, and they might not read 0.15 amp load at all.

So hardly a perfect tool, but for 20$ and some better wire and connectors it can safely count upto 45 amps continuous.

The rest of the project is going slowly.  I have built the plywood enclosure, going a bit overboard with the woodworking and in designing the layout.

I'll be able to make another one in a fraction of the time, if called upon to do so.

 

[Matlock]

Sternwake,
Please post photo's of your project.

My Cube house electrical system should be similar once I have the coin to buy the big dollar components. Major difference is I'll add solar and an MPPT controller from the get go.
I'd like seeing how you go about getting everything wired up. I understand having a blank slate..... and I've spend hours looking for the better wiring examples to borrow for my build. It's amazing how many folks throw together a "workable" yet scary house electrical system. I'd prefer to learn (borrow) from someone that can teach me something.

 

[SternWake]

CAD, for me = Cardboard Aided Design.  While I have enough plywood to accommodate mistakes or design changes, I decided to just cut into some cardboard and see what could fit where, on the faceplate, and if the cabling and wiring could go where it needs to go behind it.

Making this powerpack so that it can be opened up easily for battery replacement or just to get to the fuses easily, and be strong enough,  has proven a bit challenging.  The 2awg from Genuine Dealz is pretty flexible, for 2 awg non welding cable, but it is still ornery and takes up a bunch of space.

I am also fighting my tendency to go overkill.  I was going to run 2awg from pd9245 to battery.  This is ridiculous as the distance will be about 3.5 inches on the (+) and ~ 11.5v on the (-).  I'll now step it down to 8awg, as a little voltage drop is almost desirable, since I measured 14.56 when testing, and this voltage is too high if the Lifeline battery gets above 80F.

The owner does want to add solar to it, but not at this point.  Incorporating a charge controller into this unit, well there is no room for it. I was leaning toward recommending Renogys suitcase solar whose charge controller is on the panels, but I could likely also make something similar with 2 60 watt panels for the same or less $$.

I am adding a 6awg connector to it as well.  He has an 8awg set of jumper cables in the truck already, And I will add this connector to one end of these and have one end coming out of the powerpack, so it will be like a Giant jumper pack on Steroids.  Knowing the owner, I will be likely making a set of 2awg jumper cables to plug into the larger winch connector.

The 6awg connector will be good for hooking it to his other vehicle's alternators when the powerpack is moved to them.

The combination of battery with PD9245 charger could also be like one of those wheeled chargers that bitch slap a battery at the end of its useful existence.  Hook up the alligator clips and the lifeline will raise the weak battery voltage, then plug in the unit and 42.5 amps will flow, with a large majority going into the weak battery.

I'm not going to want to part with this powerpack.  In some ways it will be burlier than the electrical system in my Van.  The Lifeline GPL-31XT is certainly more battery than my Northstar group27 AGM Which impressed me greatly.

3 days after I removed the lifeline from the PD9245, it reads 13.12V, and I used it to run my ~ 20 amp aircompressor to blow off my workbench.

 

[66788]

SternWake
A proper crimp has no Ears.  I too have allowed ears to form on Some terminations when I did not have the proper sized die or want to spend a lot more time rotating and crimp and weakening the metal be reforming it time and again, and there is no way to mechanically remove the wire from an 'eared' crimp.  

An Eared crimp is better than a hammer crimp, or just crushing a connector over wire in a vice, but it is nowhere near as good an electrical or mechanical connection as a c proper hexagonal earless crimp.

The 'ears', can also have sharp edges which can cut though the heat shrink, or if filed off will compromise strength of the crimp.

Such a crimped lug/ terminal can be 'just fine' for connections passing limited current, but would not pass an ABYC inspection, and that is what I am shooting for.  Minimal voltage drop, maximum strength and durability and longevity.

Check out all four pages of MaineSail's tutorial on crimping marine terminals:

http://www.pbase.com/mainecruising/battery_cables

At the end of page 3, and into page 4, he reviews the harbor fright hydraulic crimper.

I'm shooting for ideal, not adequate.

++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++

I use the HF tool and it produces eared crimps.  I've put over 150 pounds of pulling force on these connections and they won't budge.



My solar system could theoretically use #10 gauge wire for the battery connections, but I used #4 gauge to eliminate the resistance that may be present in #10 wire, and to allow for an upgrade of system components when necessary.

I'm not flying or sailing in my Dodge, so aircraft/mil spec is not necessary.   The ears are safe, strong, inexpensive to buy, and just work.

You may be right that the hex crimp is better, but I suspect if it is, it is only marginally better for my intended use.

Hope to see you at the RTR in January!

 

[ZoNiE]

This One?
How many dies does it come with?

 

[SternWake]

Mine came with 9 sets of Dies.  0 awg through 14awg.  I ground out the 14's for my 2awg lugs, and will use the 12awgs for the next set I grind to the desired size.  


I have far more eared crimps in my own Van than I'd care to admit, but this particular project, where my work quality could impact the safety of others, or be inspected by someone who knows their shit, I cannot accept eared crimps, even if partially hidden below thick walled adhesive lined heat shrink.

I've no doubt the eared crimps are mechanically sound, the uncompresssed copper stranding deep in the crimp will never slide past the compression.

However, When ALL the force of the crimper is compressing all the material within  the dies toward each other, which is what happens with earless crimps, then both electrically, and mechanically the crimp is superior.  This can't be argued.

However,

Will it matter?  Likely not. 

I found the folded aluminum foil I had used, some had  still got inbetween the flats and limited ultimate compression.  These aluminum pieces came out of the dies pretty easily, and my Tinsnips cut off the foil 'ears' off cleanly. I did another crimp first without the foil, then again on the same with the preformed and snipped foil, and the crimper hydraulics were maxed out just as the Die's flats met, and the crimp came out even better than the first one.  All 8 tons of clamping force were compressing lug and copper.  The ears are basically when the wall of the lug is getting 8 tons of force, pinched into the ears,, and the copper in the middle, receiving some significant portion less clamping pressure than that.

I got my new watt meter today, sunday, USPS,  not sure why that occurs but am not complaining.

I also got new solder, new soldering gun tips, and the 6awg connectors which are just smaller versions of the 2awg winch connectors.

I opened up the new meter, desoldered the 12awg from circuit board, soldered on the 8awg, tested + and - for continuity and found it.  Direct short, again,  and I would have destroyed another meter had I touched it to the battery.

I removed the wires, used my solder sucker to remove all excess solder and continuity was gone.  I tried again, failed, shouted a thousand curses, removed excess solder again, found found no continuity, and tried again.  3 times is the charm.

The New meter surprised me in that it registered the load of the other meter's power consumption.  When tested against my clamp on meter on an LED light, both registered 0.29amps, and my old meter read 0.15 amps.

This new meter also adds a few more decimal places to watt hours.  So I can positively recommend the last watt meter  clone I linked to.

The voltage under load when all three of these watt meters are plumbed inline is different, as are the amps, but the watts are within 1 of each other on a 4 amp load and within 3 watts of each other on a 18 amp load.

Perfectly accurate, hardly, close enough, damn straight.

I wish they came with 8awg already soldered to the circuit board, and one could just add their own PowerPoles or whatever connector floats their boat.

Well back to it.  See if any of the HF dies will work nicely on 6awg lugs, or If I'll have to grind out as new set..

 

[66788]

The other day I ran out of Anderson Power Poles (my standard crimp on connector for automotive/RV use) and searched Google for "Johnson Power Poles". I was surprised that nothing came up then I realized that my perverted mind thought "Johnson" and not "Anderson". Ya gotta admit Johnson Power Poles presents a far more graphic image!

 

[rvpopeye]

Ohhh, the comedians are just coming out of the woodwork tonight !

(I'm even watching old reruns of Seinfeld as I write this. I only get 2 channels....this and Grit)

Stern Wake's thread is what inspired me to post my scrounging thread, sort of for contrast... I'd do it his way if I could !