A warning for anyone with a Joytutus or similar refrigerator. Check for a loose power connector

[Vannautical engineer]

I have the Joytutus 26qt fridge, and I have been pulling the power plug out of the side of it any time I don't want to run it. I've noticed that it has a small battery draw even when it's off, so I decided the best thing was to just unplug it when I don't need to run it.

However, I've noticed that the power plug has gotten somewhat easier to plug in and remove over the time that I've had it. Recently I noticed that if it was running and I wiggled the connector, it fluctuated a little. Then, I noticed the plug was getting very hot. It wasn't quite melting, but it was close. And no amount of fuse protection will fix this, because the total amp draw was still well below the 15amp fuse I have on the circuit (matching the 15a fuse on the fridge itself.)

Turns out, the electrical contacts have gotten spread out from plugging and unplugging so many times, so there is now a poor connection. I crimped them down a little to fit tighter, and it's better now. It also uses a whole amp less of current when it runs now. So check your power connector and make sure it's not getting hot. It's not a great design, and the contacts can become loose over time if it's unplugged and plugged in. I will probably put in a better connector or a switch so I can cut power to the fridge without unplugging it in the future.

 

[maki2]

Just add a switch into the power cord itself. You can find those inline switches at hardware stores. It is not a difficult job. If you go to the store today you can solve that issue today for a few dollars and not a lot of time.

 

[jasper]

I generally buy a lamp or something at a thrift store with a switched cord and attach a female end.

Amazon link to ready-made switched extension cord:

https://www.amazon.com/s?k=extensio...904067&tag=googhydr-20&ref=pd_sl_19qori81p1_e

 

[maki2]

A lamp cord is not a heavy enough gauge wire for a fridge freezer. It requires a cord and switch rated for at least 10 amps or you could create an overheating situation. These refrigerators also have a voltage sensor in them. If they do not receive enough voltage the sensor in them will shut them down the fridge. Cord size, a heavy duty size inline switch as well as good quality connections matters…a lot! Human error to understand that these things matter a great deal can themselves kill their investment. But of course then blame it on the fridges being a pile of junk instead of realizing they caused the failure.

Usually the weakest link in the wiring is the flaky cigarette lighter, 12 volt accessory plugs. Followed by the plug end that goes into the fridge.

But earlier this summer I was camped with some one who had a Bluetti charging off their house battery plus using a large inverter to run an instapot. Using lights and a few other things. With all that draw on the battery the sensor in the fridge circuitry would would not allow it to power on as the sensors in it realized there was not enough current for its needs. Plus the person was using a chain of several 12v cigarette style cords to reach over to the fridge. Each of those socket ends means power was also being lost at every connection. People do very foolish things to avoid doing proper wire connections. Linking up a series of those types of 12v extension cords is one of the common foolish things.

There is currently a woman in this group doing the a similar thing and is complainting about not having enough power for her overhead lights and her fridge. One of the guys reworked her wiring for good connections but she cut it all out and went right back and put in that funky junk. Sometimes you just can’t help people who can’t make the right connections in their brains to comprehend what should be done and why.

These modern 12v fridge freezers have voltage sensors in them. The wiring needs to be the correct size and the connections in the wire need to be good as well. If the voltage drops below a certain level they will not run. It is not the fridge that is at fault, it is your wring setup!

Of course it is also possible to kill a fridge when it is overworked on really hot days where the compressor and electronics get considerably overheated by inadequate ventilation. Again that is a human error situation for not setting up the correct environment for its proper operation.

 

[jonyjoe303]

I think 15 amp fuse is too much for the joytutu fridge. I have the same 26 liter fridge and it maxes out at less than 6 amps when the compressor starts (less than 4 amps after it starts) when used with 12 volts.
When I first got it, I had problems running it from my lifepo4 system, if the battery isn't full it will not run properly. I had to run it through a dc converter set to 13.4 volts and been running it like that for 3 years. The joytutu is very sensitive to the voltage dropping too much when the compressor starts. It will cycle back and forth.
I never unplug it from the fridge, if I have to disconnect it, I unplug directly from the battery.
The fridge battery draw while plugged in without the compressor running is insignificant (for my 220ah lifepo4) about 40ma, I just leave it connected 24/7.

 

[maki2]

My Engel fridge is on a 10 amp fuse per the manufacturers manual. But the 12v plug I used at the end of the cord is rated for use on 15 Amp circuits. So is the the size of wire I used going from the battery over to the fridge. I never skimp on wire size or use sockets that are only rated at the minimum of the recommended load. I do not want overheated plugs or wires. I build for longevity of equipment as well as safety but not to an extreme excess. Just to one size up when possible so that the cost is not too excessive. My fridge is about a 15’ linear distance from my house battery so there is a need to minimize any voltage drop caused by using undersized wires and poor quality connections. A fridge is a fair sized chunk of change as far as equipment investment cost goes. It is worth a few extra dollars spent for good wires and connectors keep it running properly.

I have spent time in the last few years helping people who did too much on the cheap as far as their electrical wiring setups go. There really was no mystery to why their equipment was not performing correctly.

A few decades ago I took an A+ computer repair and build course at a local college. The instructor stated rule #1 for troubleshooting computer equipment that was not working properly or working at all was “always check the physical power connections first”. It is a very good rule for everyone and it pertains to all your appliances and other electrical equipment, so start your troubleshooting there.

 

[jasper]

My post above was based upon the 110vac connector, not the 12vdc cord.

I use anderson connectors for DC applications.

 

[maki2]

it is easy, If you want to put an inline switch into a power cord and you do not know which switch is the right one for the wire gauge take the cord into a hardware store such as True Value or Ace and get a clerk to show you the right size switch that fits onto your cord. If the clerk is unsure ask for a clerk who has more experience.