My new E-350 Extended van

[coultergeist]

I worked on the air conditioner today as well.  The first thing I did was cut a piece of insulated 6 inch duct the length needed for the exhaust hose.  The insulated ducting in not very rigid.  I am using it as a cover for the hose that came with the air conditioner.  The original hose just slides inside.  You can see that in this picture.

 

[coultergeist]

I got the now insulated air conditioner exhaust hose installed.&nbsp; The first picture shows it routed under the bed to its exhaust flange. <br><br>The second picture shows it sitting in its cabinet enclosure.&nbsp; Only this portion will be visible when the bed top is put in place.

 

[coultergeist]

After getting the air conditioner mostly installed I started on insulation.&nbsp; I am using bubble wrap to fill in all the voids in the body.&nbsp; It's super light weight and will make nice stationary air gaps that are impervious to mold.&nbsp; It was actually really easy to get into pretty small crevices.&nbsp; <br><br>I'm using a one foot wide roll of bubble wrap with the original small bubbles.&nbsp; It is perforated every foot.&nbsp; I found the best approach to get in way back into crevices is to pull off one perforated section at a time and then feed that into the hole.&nbsp; Use a fairly stiff hose (1/2 inch in my case) to push that as far back into the crevice as possible.&nbsp; Then repeat until the area is full.&nbsp; <br><br>I was able to fill up the spaces between the windows and above them in this way quickly and easily.&nbsp; The bigger openings you simply have to wad up and push them in.&nbsp; I use longer pieces in bigger openings.&nbsp; I will go back and tape over the holes once all the bubble wrap is in.&nbsp; <br><br>After that I will use standard R-13 rolled insulation to cover the walls under the bed and behind the cabinets.&nbsp;

 

[Ballenxj]

Bubble Wrap eh? Hmm, what's that popping sound? <img src="/images/boards/smilies/crazy.gif" class="emoticon bbc_img"> <img src="/images/boards/smilies/rofl.gif" class="emoticon bbc_img"> <br>-Bruce

 

[coultergeist]

I think it should do a good job.&nbsp; All those little&nbsp;air pockets should add considerably to the insulating value.&nbsp; I didn't want to put the R13 rolled insulation in the body spaces.&nbsp; If water or condensation gets in there it could mold and mildew and become a big mess over time.&nbsp; I like the spray foam stuff, but it can cause problems too and once it's in it is almost impossible to get out.&nbsp; The bubble wrap is impervious to mold and weighs virtually nothing, in fact far less than the foam would.&nbsp; <br><br>It is actually pretty cheap compared to foam too.&nbsp; I got a 200 foot roll of bubble wrap for $16 at walmart.&nbsp; Based on what I've used so far, it will likely take care of all the places I need to fill.&nbsp; One can of foam is usually $5 or more.&nbsp; It would take many cans to fill the same spaces.&nbsp; <br><br>The R13 rolled insulation will go on the inside walls under the bed and behind the cabinets as a second layer of insulation.&nbsp; I will have either thin plywood or more likely the same plastic sheeting I used on the windows to cover that.&nbsp; <br><br>I could actually tell a difference yesterday in the areas I had the bubble wrap in.&nbsp; I did the area I took the picture of first.&nbsp; Then I worked on the more restricted areas that I had to push it in to with the hose.&nbsp; There was a noticeable difference in the temperature of the sheet metal where the bubble wrap had been put in behind it and areas that were still open air behind them.

 

[Ballenxj]

You are making really GOOD progress here. I'm still trying to absorb it all, but I'm sure I will have to come back and read the whole thread again. <img src="/images/boards/smilies/wink.gif" class="emoticon bbc_img"> <br>When I got to the part about exhaust heat issues I was thinking "insulate the exhaust tube," then read a bit further to see that's what you did. <img src="/images/boards/smilies/thumb.gif" class="emoticon bbc_img"><br>Speaking of reading it again, I just reread maritimecamper's posts. I'm glad he is making progress with his situation too. <img src="/images/boards/smilies/smile.gif" class="emoticon bbc_img"> <br>-Bruce

 

[coultergeist]

Thanks Bruce.&nbsp; I'm trying really hard to do a good job the first time through.&nbsp; I learned a good bit from converting the Safari.&nbsp; I'm trying to incorporate all that I learned from that.&nbsp; Having said that, I'm sure I will make some more mistakes.&nbsp; I will let you know what doesn't work too.&nbsp; If you ever have any suggestions, please throw them my way.&nbsp; I always appreciate others ideas.&nbsp; The bubble wrap idea actually came from another post on this site.&nbsp; <br><br>I'm glad things are improving for maritimecamper too.&nbsp; <br><br>Patrick

 

[Ballenxj]

Will do Patrick, that is if I have anything worthwhile suggesting. <img src="/images/boards/smilies/wink.gif" class="emoticon bbc_img"> <br>-Bruce

 

[coultergeist]

It's been pretty rainy the last couple of days, so I wasn't able to do a whole lot.&nbsp; I got a few things done today.&nbsp; This is the bug screen for the air conditioner exhaust.&nbsp; It is mounted on the underside of the black flange using the same bolts.

 

[coultergeist]

When I first started working on the van, I upgraded all the dome lights to LED panels.&nbsp; It made it super bright inside.&nbsp; The cabinetry ended up hiding about half the dome lights.&nbsp; I didn't want to move the current dome lights as they work well to light the interior of the cabinets they are in.&nbsp; <br><br>I opted to add another light bar.&nbsp; It started out as a fluorescent fixture.&nbsp; I removed the bulb and ballast.&nbsp; I then added three LED panels to it and wired them to the original switch.&nbsp; It is now a 12v dc powered LED light strip.&nbsp; <br><br>Should be able to get the wiring all connected up and see how bright it will be tomorrow.&nbsp;

 

[coultergeist]

This is the where all the cabinet wiring will connect on the driver's side.&nbsp; It hides in the space where drawers go.&nbsp; It won't be visible once its all wired up.&nbsp; <br><br>Hopefully I will be able to finish the last of the lighting in the next couple of days.

 

[coultergeist]

Its rained here pretty much the last ten days.&nbsp; I'm getting a few little things done.&nbsp; Suppose to be dry this weekend.&nbsp; My plan is to get the battery box taken care of.&nbsp; I will update as I work on that.

 

[coultergeist]

I finally had a chance to get the bed completely put in.&nbsp; This is it as seen from the front of the vehicle.&nbsp; There will eventually be a door the covers the area in the aisle below the bed.&nbsp; That is the electrical cabinet.&nbsp; It still has a little work to go.

 

[coultergeist]

My Safari has an electrical issue I need to fix so I am driving the big van until I get it taken care of.&nbsp; I got the inside all put away and in driving mode.&nbsp; The outside was a bit grungy from sitting under trees so long while I was working on it.&nbsp; The left side is the still dirty side.&nbsp; The right is the clean side.&nbsp; It took over three hours to wash by hand and that was hustling.&nbsp;

 

[coultergeist]

After I gave it its first real bath, it actually looked really good.&nbsp; The only big exception was the bumpers.&nbsp; They were both pretty worn and had a lot of rust spots.&nbsp; I decided to paint them.&nbsp;&nbsp; I used a&nbsp;gloss black paint from an agriculture supply store.&nbsp; It is super hard and lasts a really long time.&nbsp; It made a huge difference in how the van looks.&nbsp; I ran out just as I finished the back bumper.&nbsp; I will do the grille and light bezels as soon as I get more paint.&nbsp; Should look really sharp when it is done.&nbsp; &nbsp;

 

[coultergeist]

I've been trying to decide for a while how I was going to do the battery box.&nbsp; I ended up buying this aluminum storage box a few months ago.&nbsp; The more I looked at it, the more it looked like it would work.&nbsp; I measured it and it is almost a perfect fit for three group 31 batteries side by side.&nbsp; <br><br>It also fits in a pretty good spot under the bed.&nbsp; This is roughly where it will be.&nbsp; Just had to make sure it would work out well before I did any modifications.

 

[coultergeist]

The first step in battery box modification was to cut the holes for the cable.&nbsp; It will be six altogether.&nbsp; The two on the right are the incoming line from the main vehicle battery and the ground to the frame.<br><br>The holes on the left will be for the cables that go to the inverter, power converter, and power panel and ground bar.

 

[coultergeist]

The next step was to line the interior of the box.&nbsp; I used underbody coating.&nbsp; It is rubberized and pretty resistant to chemicals and scratching.&nbsp; I was concerned about acid leaking and possible arcs when installing cables.&nbsp; Figured it was just a good idea all around to completely insulate the interior.

 

[coultergeist]

After getting the insulation done, I installed these plastic grommets in the cable holes.&nbsp; They will prevent the cables from rubbing on the metal and causing a short.&nbsp; They are slightly reduced in size for the cables I am using.&nbsp; I could pop them out and go with the regular size in the same hole if I decide to run bigger cables or an extra small one through the same hole.&nbsp;

 

[Ballenxj]

Looking better every day. I'm sure the new paint and wash made a "BIG" difference. <img src="/images/boards/smilies/smile.gif" class="emoticon bbc_img"> <br>Curious though, where are you going to mount the battery box. <br>-Bruce