Mothra Metamorphosis

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if leaking oil is all that is the problem and the transmission runs ok otherwise, I would just keep it topped up have a piece of plywood or cardboard handy to catch the oil from other peoples driveways etc..that is assuming it is not leaking a ton of oil and if it was I am sure you would have noticed it on your way home with it.. Then I would set up a minimal living arrangements get to know it better see if everything else checks out after using it for awhile then a new transmission might be in order. Sounds like you are still working so you are not likely going too far for the moment it still may make a great pad that you can put together for a few months rent. if it is not leaking from the roof you get a source of heat, a matress a cook stove is all you will need to move in.
 
it would be much easier then doing a toyota fwd,basic wrench/socket set and a floor jack,and since you have a doghouse the top bolts are right there,its actually a quite easy job the only time you need your brain is to fill the torque converter with fluid and make sure it is fully engaged in the pump

check craigslist and wrecking yards for used prices or if you can a rebuild

if your liking the rig fix it,if you are not dump it and start over with another rig with an unknown trans/motor
 
Yeah, I have just about decided to nurse the transmission along for now and focus on making the RV liveable with the money I have now. If I spent all my money on the transmission then lost my housing, I would be camping in a hollow shell with no heat in the coldest part of the year.

I have been devising brackets (in my head) that could be used to securely hold a transmission onto a floor jack while allowing adjustment for positioning. All out of wood and only a couple of steel plates commonly available at a hardware store.
 
GrantRobertson said:
First the good news: The $9 sensor was the problem with the speedometer.

Now the bad news: The transmission is leaking fluid around the pump area and will take $3500 - $4500 to rebuild. They said that to replace the pump they would have to pull the thing all apart anyway, so it wouldn't make sense to pull it apart just to replace the pump, without rebuilding what else needs to be rebuilt.

Well, that top end (which is what I really expect it to come out to) is just too rich for me. I could buy a whole 'nother van for that much. I've got to get the thing home and then figure out what I am going to do with it. Yes, I know, I should have taken the thing to a mechanic first. But my schedule and life makes that really difficult. Save the lectures for later. Now I just need to figure out what I need to do now. I will be loosing the roof over my head in just a few weeks.

So it is leaking from the front of the trans?  If so, they are talking about the front pump and the below applies.

How did the shop describe "pull the thing all apart anyway" ?  Were they saying that they would have to pull the trans out of the RV?  Or were they saying that they would have to pull the trans all apart to replace the front pump?  If the latter is the case, they are not being straight with you as the front pump is the one of the first things that is unbolted from the actual trans after the torque converter is taken off the front of the trans when pulling it apart.

Links about removing front pump:

A quick primer: youtube.com/watch?v=NmlKjXDOIno

More in depth, and done on a 4R100 which is an updated and renamed E4OD:

.youtube.com/watch?v=6d23NuPN_r4
Note the need to remove the filter!

You might want to talk to these folks:

http://www.loyalaustin.com/home.html

It is a DIY auto repair shop that will step in and help when need be.  I'll bet that they have a transmission jack.
 
29chico said:
So it is leaking from the front of the trans?  If so, they are talking about the front pump and the below applies.

How did the shop describe "pull the thing all apart anyway" ?  Were they saying that they would have to pull the trans out of the RV?  Or were they saying that they would have to pull the trans all apart to replace the front pump?  If the latter is the case, they are not being straight with you as the front pump is the one of the first things that is unbolted from the actual trans after the torque converter is taken off the front of the trans when pulling it apart.

I think he said it was leaking from the front and back. Though I also got the distinct impression that the rebuild was a "just in case, while we have it out" kind of thing. He did not mention any evidence of damage due to being low on fluid. He just said it should be rebuilt "just in case" being low on fluid HAD caused any damage. Hell, it might have been sitting, slowly dripping fluid but not moving an inch for years.

Maybe I'll just pick up a spare transmission and strap it up on the roof to have, in case I need it. [emoji6]
 
I don't know all the ins and outs, but price sounds very high to me. I had the tranny on my grand Cherokee replaced last year with a rebuild from advanced auto, so has a 3/30k warranty, for $2500 total. Done by local mechanic shop, tranny failed in first month, advanced sent new one and paid shop to install...

Jeep is automatic and 4wd if that matters for comparison
 
Grant, do a search on line of that transmission shop.  Ratings and complaints. 

Also call around and find out prices of a R&R only.  (Remove & replace) I bet you can save about $1,500 or more.
 
something is fishy here. first off they told you they would put in a used trans for $3,500 with a 3 year warranty? that's a red flag. what if the leak on the front is only the torque converter seal, a 10 buck part. very common for this seal to fail after a vehicle has sat. in fact I am almost willing to bet that is what's leaking. same thing on the rear, output shaft seal. highdesertranger
 
Get the trans hot then add 24 oz of Lucus Fix top off to the hot full mark with more ATF if needed run it for 50 miles check fluid level hot again top off if needed.
 
GrantRobertson said:
First the good news: The $9 sensor was the problem with the speedometer.

Now the bad news: The transmission is leaking fluid around the pump area and will take $3500 - $4500 to rebuild. They said that to replace the pump they would have to pull the thing all apart anyway, so it wouldn't make sense to pull it apart just to replace the pump, without rebuilding what else needs to be rebuilt.

Well, that top end (which is what I really expect it to come out to) is just too rich for me. I could buy a whole 'nother van for that much. I've got to get the thing home and then figure out what I am going to do with it. Yes, I know, I should have taken the thing to a mechanic first. But my schedule and life makes that really difficult. Save the lectures for later. Now I just need to figure out what I need to do now. I will be loosing the roof over my head in just a few weeks.
Grant, sounds like you need some hip-waders.  My B.S. alert meter just jumped the scale! Bring your new baby home and research a reputable transmission shop.
 
After double checking, I have determined that the Chilton manual truly did give incorrect instructions for checking my transmission fluid. The manual says, and I quote:


Although it is best to check fluid at normal operating temperature, it can be checked overnight cold, if the ambient temperatures are 50-95 degrees F (21-35 degrees C). If so refer to the dots on the transmission dipstick instead of the cross-hatched area and level marking lines.

And that is IT! No mention of running the engine at all. Because these instructions were so wrong, I wasted a couple days of my time taking the thing into a shop that likely lied to me, or at least was trying to overcharge me. So, I have started a new thread here: (https://vanlivingforum.com/Thread-The-correct-way-to-check-automatic-transmission-fluid) for those true mechanics among us to explain to us how we should actually check our automatic transmission fluid. I see no reason to hide such valuable information in this thread.
 
What are you running short on, time, money or both?

If on time, focus on getting the camper livable and add towing to your vehicle insurance coverage if you don't have it already. Keep an eye on the transmission and just drive it. But being ever mindful that it might need to be replaced at some point during your ownership.

If this purchase is leaving a sour taste, consider getting rid of it and moving on.
 
hows the hard shift and slipping now with proper fluid levels?
 
if it was 2 quarts low it definitely going to be different when you drive it,take note and get back to us

also if you could,get a good sized piece of clean cardboard and place it under right after you park it and let it set over night,see what and how much has dripped on it
 
Treehugger said:
Grant, sounds like you need some hip-waders.  My B.S. alert meter just jumped the scale! Bring your new baby home and research a reputable transmission shop.
Hi Grant, a friend and long time Austin resident speaks highly of Yost Automotive.
 
Got it back today. Running pretty far behind in my get ready for work routine cause they took forever getting to me. No time to do anything other than drive it home then hop in the car and head out for my late lunch before work. At Wendy's now.

RV ran fine. Shop said the engine itself seems to be in good shape. Just the trans leak at the front. I will just watch the levels for a while.

One of the security guards at the VA built a skoolie when he was younger, so we visit sometimes and I keep him updated. He recommended The Atypical Mechanic. They drive out to you and work on your car where it sits, though they also have a small shop now. They'll even fix your car in your work parking lot, while you are at work. Or work on weekends or holidays. They will even "help" you do it yourself. My guard friend says he is the only mechanic that hasn't ripped him off.
 
They sound like good people , with a great business idea.
 
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