Mothra Metamorphosis

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Oh, I tried back-up parking for the first time today. I think I did pretty well for my first try.

1936418ee8d16339af36177fbb3c1597.jpg


No, that other car wasn't there when I parked. I found an area that has plenty of room for my first try.

P.S. this image was posted from Tapatalk. Tell me how it looks.
 
GrantRobertson said:
Oh, I tried back-up parking for the first time today. I think I did pretty well for my first try.

1936418ee8d16339af36177fbb3c1597.jpg


No, that other car wasn't there when I parked. I found an area that has plenty of room for my first try.

P.S. this image was posted from Tapatalk. Tell me how it looks.

Looks like another broken image.

I'm not sure where you're hosting your stuff, but not all services allow hotlinking (with image tags, to display elsewhere like you're doing).

I'd suggest using the forum uploader, or a free no-account service like imgur.com

Edit: Your image became visible for me after I posted. I stand by the above suggestion though.
 
GrantRobertson said:
No, I checked it cold. According to Chilton, when you check it cold, you don't do all that. Though, I imagine there is value in doing both.

Interesting, I have never heard of checking an automatic trans ATF level without the engine running.  

However, I have come to not really trust Chiltons manuals over the years.  If I have to use an aftermarket manual I prefer Haynes.

Sounds like the shop has a lot of faith in their E4OD rebuilds.  What kind of warranty do they give?  A lot of shops these days give 3 years 100k miles on their rebuilds as long as they do the full remove, rebuild and replace.

Most good trans shops include an aftermarket trans cooler with a rebuild as they want to make sure that their rebuild is not contaminated by metal particles lodged in the factory cooler by a failing trans.  It is a good practice.
 
GrantRobertson said:
Well the odometer says 68,000 but the Speedo is wonky and the PO said he doesn't trust it. Yup, and I bought it anyway.

no worries,it will work out,might have to sell your car to fund it though but a good rebuild is well worth it over junkyard replacement,hopefully just a valve body issue,or better yet an out of adjustment detent cable, pic works for me
 
Just for reference I had an E4OD in a 1 ton pickup. I think It was about 10 years ago when I had it rebuilt, and paid $3200 including a billet torque converter. I had done business with the company for many years through several owners. They said normally that would have been $3800. It was for a top quality compete rebuild by someone who knew what he was doing.
 
29chico said:
Interesting, I have never heard of checking an automatic trans ATF level without the engine running.  

I am now convinced that I read the book wrong. It was late and I am burning both ends lately.
 
TMG51 said:
Looks like another broken image.

I'm not sure where you're hosting your stuff, but not all services allow hotlinking (with image tags, to display elsewhere like you're doing).

I'd suggest using the forum uploader, or a free no-account service like imgur.com

Edit: Your image became visible for me after I posted. I stand by the above suggestion though.
I think Tapatalk automatically uploads the image to the forum.
 
The shop called me at about 6:00pm. They said it was three quarts low and leaking fluid around the pump. However, they are mainly concerned about the cause of the wonky speedometer. They said the speed sensor is in the differential (OK, I may be remembering that wrong). He said that problem is either a $9 sensor or it is an incredibly expensive repair. They have ordered that sensor and will put it in tomorrow. He said that was the easiest way to troubleshoot the problem.

I guess I'll see how it goes. I can either afford to fix the RV, or I can afford to move into an apartment. Either way, I will live.
 
ok, so if the sensor doesn't fix the speedo are they going to charge you for it? I hate when people do repairs like this. replacing parts without knowing they are bad is not auto repair, it's shooting craps. highdesertranger
 
GrantRobertson said:
I am now convinced that I read the book wrong. It was late and I am burning both ends lately.
I have one of the 7.3's and the dipstick has cold and hot checking marks.
 
GrantRobertson said:
I am now convinced that I read the book wrong. It was late and I am burning both ends lately.

No problem.  I went to google to see in the E4OD had a vac modulator.  But I searched for c6 vacuum modulator instead and did not realize my error.  I know this because the google page with "c6 vacuum modulator" was still open on my computer when I got up much later this am.

We are both guilty of being human.  So be it.
 
highdesertranger said:
ok, so if the sensor doesn't fix the speedo are they going to charge you for it? I hate when people do repairs like this. replacing parts without knowing they are bad is not auto repair, it's shooting craps. highdesertranger
I could care less about the $9. The only other way to troubleshoot it is to tear open the differential.
 
Opening the differential is an easy task and would give the opportunity to check the condition of the gears and also change the fluid. If they don't do it, you may want to consider doing it yourself for piece of mind. The rear end fluid is often overlooked through a vehicles whole life, but it's a pretty important thing.
It sounds like you'll be "all in" when your done and a surprise like rear end trouble would really suck. Hoping for the best for you.
 
First the good news: The $9 sensor was the problem with the speedometer.

Now the bad news: The transmission is leaking fluid around the pump area and will take $3500 - $4500 to rebuild. They said that to replace the pump they would have to pull the thing all apart anyway, so it wouldn't make sense to pull it apart just to replace the pump, without rebuilding what else needs to be rebuilt.

Well, that top end (which is what I really expect it to come out to) is just too rich for me. I could buy a whole 'nother van for that much. I've got to get the thing home and then figure out what I am going to do with it. Yes, I know, I should have taken the thing to a mechanic first. But my schedule and life makes that really difficult. Save the lectures for later. Now I just need to figure out what I need to do now. I will be loosing the roof over my head in just a few weeks.
 
The transmission shop called and said they found a used transmission they could put in for $3500 (parts and labor).
 
GrantRobertson said:
The transmission shop called and said they found a used transmission they could put in for $3500 (parts and labor).
This would come with a 3-year warrantee.
 
So, If I nursed the thing along for another year, constantly keeping an eye on the fluid level; What are the chances of finding a used transmission that I could trust and then putting the thing in myself (with a little help from some friends)?

How hard is it to replace a transmission, up under a van, with no lift, using only jacks and jack stands?  Now, I have single-handedly removed and replaced the transmission in a Toyota Tercel, but I just used a 2x4 and a rope as an engine lift and the transmission weighed only seven pounds and was barely bigger than a bowling ball. But I did get it back in with no help from anyone.

Are good, used transmissions available out there (maybe even from Mexico) for significantly less than $3500?
 
Wrecking yards sell them all the time and should come with at least a 90 day warranty.  I have no idea at what they sell for these days.  I have replaced a lot of transmissions (mostly 4 speeds standard), but it was a long time ago.  Automatics are very heavy.  The few times I did them, I used a motorcycle jack.  It has two lifting arms to help hold the trans level.  A lot of wiggling the trans with a few curse words mixed in  :angel:   You can also rent transmission jacks.  They clamp to the transmission and have adjustment for all axis.  Getting it bolted up without the torque converter ruining the front pump is another downfall area.  You have to twist the torque converter while pushing in all the way to engage the front pump ears.  If it slides out any before you get the trans mated to the block, stop and get the torque converted seated in the pump again.

I would not attempt this by myself.

A mechanic shop should be able to install a used one for you. It doesn't have to be a transmission shop.
 
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