Mothra Metamorphosis

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Lay a 2x4 of the correct length for a rafter on the ground.Drive a spike or large nail into the ground.Tie a string to the nail.Hold a pencil on the string at the middle of the 2x4 Check the arc.Move the nail in or out until you get the correct arc.Cut the first one and use it for a pattern.Always use deck screws to assemble,never nails or drywall screws.
 
travlinman said:
safe span for 2x4 16 in oc is 8 ft.

So I am good with 2x4s, just as I thought.

Remember, it's not as if I am gonna have a room full,of furniture up there. Just a bunch of solar panels. And most RVs get by with 2x2s.
 
BradKW said:
Just the mess, attempt to contain it on a breezy day, and the constant cleanup would be awful.

I plan to drive to a nearby construction area on the weekends to do this part. My little bit of extra debris will go unnoticed. Then it will just get buried when they finish the landscaping, along with all the other minor construction debris.
 
GrantRobertson said:
I plan to drive to a nearby construction area on the weekends to do this part. My little bit of extra debris will go unnoticed. Then it will just get buried when they finish the landscaping, along with all the other minor construction debris.

Grant, dumping your waste on another's property without permission is illegal. You're OK with that?
 
BradKW said:
have you considered something as relatively simple as ripping 2x6 in an arch, 1" being height of both ends, and then bending some 1/4" plywood over it? Not simple-simple, but certainly doable and have a nice end product...

I did consider it for about a day. It would take more than one layer of 1/4" plywood to support the weight of even one person. So, that would be more expensive than single thicker sheets.

Plus, an this is the big kicker that people don't seem to understand: I can not year off the whole roof and rebuild the whole thing in one go. I do not have that luxury. I will be living in it in a little over a week. I have to choose methods that leave an actual, physical roof over my head the whole time.

Because I am replacing the joists with the existing roof in place, and that roof is flat, then my joists must be flat on top.

I can then replace the sheathing in one day, and still have roof that night. Then the foam can go on top of that.
 
buckwilk said:
Grant, dumping your waste on another's property without permission is illegal. You're OK with that?
It will be crumbs of foam that will be plowed under. It will not matter one shit. With the crap that the local developers lay down and call soil, this will be an improvement. It will help the soil percolate better.
 
I've worked on those sites , I'd guess that if you showed up when they are there and ask ,,,,they will say go for it and show you where their scrap pile is....just sayin , might not happen that way but ya might get a bunch of guys asking questions on how they can do one of their own too.
 
GrantRobertson said:
I did consider it for about a day. It would take more than one layer of 1/4" plywood to support the weight of even one person. So, that would be more expensive than single thicker sheets.

Plus, an this is the big kicker that people don't seem to understand: I can not year off the whole roof and rebuild the whole thing in one go. I do not have that luxury. I will be living in it in a little over a week. I have to choose methods that leave an actual, physical roof over my head the whole time.

Because I am replacing the joists with the existing roof in place, and that roof is flat, then my joists must be flat on top.

I can then replace the sheathing in one day, and still have roof that night. Then the foam can go on top of that.

hmm, I was kind of picturing you repairing the flat roof as you plan to, perhaps keeping it watertight with peel and seal as you go, and then adding your curved roof on that. 1/4" plywood is actually pretty strong...supported on 16" center, I'd wager its more resilient that most metal van roofs...
 
GrantRobertson said:
It will be crumbs of foam that will be plowed under. It will not matter one shit. With the crap that the local developers lay down and call soil, this will be an improvement. It will help the soil percolate better.

Changes nothing---it's illegal and wrong! Otherwise, why are you waiting till the weekend when no ones there? You are honest or you're not. I'm sure the people who dump their crap at the end of a dirt road say the same thing.
 
Grant you may want to look at this product from lowes. black jack aluminum reflective roof coating. I have used this product several times and it will stop leaks . It is thick and you must use a drill with mixer. It will have black streaks when mixing but will go on silver. it has fibers in it and will stop leaks. Maby this will buy you some time. and it only cost $67.00 for five gallon bucket and you could get three coats out of a bucket.
 
Food for thought Grant.  If you park on any kind of slant, the water will run off. 

You are pressed for time, just beef up your flat roof and put the skin on it.



In my personal opinion, you are over thinking this and setting yourself up for grief.
 
travlinman said:
Grant you may want to look at this product from lowes. black jack aluminum reflective roof coating. I have used this product several times and it will stop leaks . It is thick and you must use a drill with mixer. It will have black streaks when mixing but will go on silver. it has fibers in it and will stop leaks. Maby this will buy you some time. and it only cost $67.00 for five gallon bucket and you could get three coats out of a bucket.
Thanks, that is exactly what I need to tide me over for a few weeks.
 
Just an observation. It seems like we all need to step back and take a breath concerning Grant's roof. Would I do it the same way he is planning, probably not. But he has obviously thought this through, a lot. I have no doubt he can make it happen, as he has made the whole project work within his time/finance/available space so far. I've seen threads go down this road before, when someone tries to do something unconventional. Aren't we all attracted to this site because we're all a little unconventional? Or at least want to be? And posting things like someone should scrap their project (not exactly what was said but might as well have been) is not helpful to anyone. Ok, rant off, let's all play nice and see if we can help Grant continue moving forward.
 
flying kurbmaster said:
how do you plan on holding this interior 2x4 ceiling frame up.

Now, we're getting to the tricky part. I haven't quite figured that out yet, as I haven't opened up the top of the wall to see what exactly is in there. I know it is rusty steel frame, but in what pattern, I am not sure.

Ultimately, I know I need a rim joist, or something else to serve the same function of tying all the joists together and keeping them from twisting under load. However, the "rim" where that would go will be inaccessible until I pull off the outer skin of the RV, way down the line. Now, gluing and screwing the plywood to the top of the joists, rather than just nailing them, will help, but that won't happen until the final plywood is laid on top. One problem with a rim joist is that it would cut into the amount of joist that is physically on top of the stud. If there is not enough overlap there, then there won't be much room for the flat steel plates that I have been thinking of using to really hold the joist and stud at a really solid right angle. So, I could use a 3/4" pine board that is about 6" - 8" wide and extend this modified rim joist down into a notch cut into the tops of the studs as well. Thus, it would be adding structural integrity to both the studs and the joists. However, all that would have to happen AFTER the joists are already in place. I could put that notch in the stud before the stud was put up, but the rim joist would have to wait till after the outer skin comes off,near the end of the process.

I have also been considering gluing and screwing a rectangle of plywood to one side of the joists and studs where they meet, as a giant angle bracket. This plywood would come out and down as far as the cabinets are planned to go. They would then serve the dual purpose of adding structural integrity to the house frame AND becoming part of the cabinets.

So, the other question is: How do I plan to support the joists temporarily while I am waiting for the roof to go on and the studs to go up? I'm still tossing ideas around on that one. My first thought was to run a couple of 2x4s around the wall, screwed to the steel beams, just under where the joists will be, as a temporary brace. Unfortunately, it would be pretty hard to get a joist up there with that brace in the way on both ends. So, one brace could be lower, to allow the joist to swing up into place, and then wedge a short stud up under it (temporarily nailed, of course) Or, I could just screw a piece of 2x4 to the wall under each joist as I put the joist in place. Not caring if it looks really ugly in the interim provides a heck of a lot of freedom. Yeah, if I cut a notch (rabbit) out of one side of said 2x4, then it could even go up along the side of the joist and keep it from twisting, while all the other work was being done. OK, then a diagonal, to hold the joist at a right angle to the wall. Yeah, yeah, I think that's it. Quick, easy, cheap, functional, strong, ugly as hell, and easy to remove one at a time as I install the studs later.

Thanks for asking.

P.S. I would draw pictures, but it is not as if you are going to be doing the work for me. Once I do it, I will take pictures and everyone will see the genius of it all.   :rolleyes:
 
The floor:

Now that I have the thing cleaned out, I have been able to figure out how the floor is constructed. Apparently, Ford provided this thing to Fleetwood with a flat, sheet-metal "bed" of sorts, unlike some, where all the original manufacturer provides is the chassis beams. I am assuming this "bed" did not come from Fleetwood, because it has no rust that I can see anywhere. I have looked everywhere I can get to and it seems to be in great shape.

Anyway, on top of this "bed" is about 1.5" of Styrofoam, then .5 - .75" plywood. The plywood is pretty rotted in some areas and will have to be replaced. But I may be able to keep the Styrofoam. The good news is that I won't need to loose any headroom to insulate the floor because it is already insulated.
 
ok I have to ask one more time. why don't you just replace the steel rafters? a steel cage for studs and rafters is far superior compared to wood. highdesertranger
 
highdesertranger said:
ok I have to ask one more time.  why don't you just replace the steel rafters?  a steel cage for studs and rafters is far superior compared to wood.  highdesertranger

A) I don't have welding equipment.

B) I haven't welded since high-school and that was just simple arc welding. While I am confident I can learn it, I don't think now is the time.

C) Welding a steel frame to a rusted steel frame, up under and flat against wood... I don't think that is such a great idea.


OK, I will say this one last time: I CAN NOT just pull the whole roof off and rebuild from scratch. I will be homeless REAL SOON NOW. I don't want to be roofless too.
 
Do you have an extra set of hands to help you with this?


I hate being up against the clock and possibly forced to take shortcuts which might come back later to bite me in the ass.

Best of luck with this, If I were nearby I'd show up with my tool belt, but perhaps we'd just waste time arguing over the best way to proceed :)
 
is the rusty steel tubing exposed in the roof to see how bad it is (photos???)and where does the rust end, is it possible to cut the rusty sections out and install sections of new pipe, have you taken the ceiling off inside to have a real close look? even if you don't weld, if you were to buy the steel cut it and prep it, (all you need is an angle grinder) then took it to a welding shop within an hour they could weld most of that frame at least on three sides which would be pretty good. Would there be a way of temporarily fastening the steel in place with screws to the plywood above so all they would have to do is weld, weld, weld,
 
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