Most efficient AC - 181 watts for 6000 BTU

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Jim Ragsdale

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I'm in the AC business.  I've read lots of the threads here on ways to keep your rig cool.  When you look at all of the AC units out there, you have a hard time figuring out which unit is the most efficient.  The industry has a number for you and its SEER.  Its pretty simply calculated by taking the BTU and dividing it by the watts needed to power the unit. 

I too am considering a rig build and I'm also trying to figure out how to use solar to make it all go.  Mitsubishi makes the most efficient AC I can find and it is a mini split.  The outdoor unit model number is MUZ-FH06NA for the 1/2 Ton (6000btu) unit and the indoor part number is MSZ-FH06NA.  Together this combo has a stupidly high SEER rating of 33.1 so if you do the math, that means you can put 6000 btu of cooling in your rig for a "cost" of 181 watts.   Its also a heat pump so it will also heat your rig when it gets cold out.  (Hello Colorado in the winter?)  

The downside here is it is a 220v system.  It can actually run with as low as 208 volts.  You will need an inverter to run it that puts out that voltage.  These units aren't cheap as you might expect.  While a window shaker would run you $150, this package wholesales for $1500.  But at 181 watts it might be the difference between doable and not doable at any cost.

Obviously, you aren't going to buy it wholesale and you are going to have to get it installed by a licensed AC company.  But if you go this route and get quotes from an AC company, you will have an idea what his cost for the units is.


Mitsubishi makes larger versions but the SEER drops as the units get bigger.  The 18000 BTU version is only 21 SEER.   By the way if you still have a house and the AC is over 6 or 7 years old , you probably are using a 10 SEER system.  Here in Florida, we can't install a system of less than 14 SEER per the building code.  So in this context a 33 SEER machine is pretty darn efficient. 

BUT if you are like me and an AC is a requirement along with off grid solar to power it, it might just be the answer to running AC off solar while boondocking.
 
Jim Ragsdale said:
I'm in the AC business.

Oh!

I have been thinking of a small AC unit for my trailer and/or future van build, and this one keeps popping up on my radar:

https://climateright.com/2500-btu-small-ac-and-heater.html

I dont know the efficiency, its nowhere near as high as the one you mentioned, but it is a low power unit, easily run with a small genset and maybe even a good sized solar array.

I know they are made for smaller areas like teardrop trailers and ticket booths, but maybe one would work for a smaller van also.

Have you seen these?

They also make them in larger BTU ratings, but of course, the power needed goes way up.
 
Man is the efficient. It's too bad the cost is so high.

The lowest wattage window shaker I know of is 410w for 5000 BTU. I will add that 5000 BTU is not a lot of cooling especially in humid conditions.
 
Running it heavily off bank+inverter means a whole lotta lead, genny running a lot too.

Maybe set it up to (almost) always run off the genny, sized so high-amp charging happens at the same time.

Doable, but me I'd rather just keep heading "up" chasing cooler spots and weather.
 
same here. if you can be mobile just go to higher and/or dryer places with a swamp cooler. If you cant due to a job or obligation, just run a generator.
 
tx2sturgis said:
Oh!

I have been thinking of a small AC unit for my trailer and/or future van build, and this one keeps popping up on my radar:

https://climateright.com/2500-btu-small-ac-and-heater.html

I dont know the efficiency, its nowhere near as high as the one you mentioned, but it is a low power unit, easily run with a small genset and maybe even a good sized solar array.

I know they are made for smaller areas like teardrop trailers and ticket booths, but maybe one would work for a smaller van also.

Have you seen these?

They also make them in larger BTU ratings, but of course, the power needed goes way up.
The 900 watt power requirement is kinda of nuts for just 2500 btu.  You can get a Frigadaire 5000 btu window unit that uses half that power.
 
John61CT said:
Running it heavily off bank+inverter means a whole lotta lead, genny running a lot too.

Maybe set it up to (almost) always run off the genny, sized so high-amp charging happens at the same time.

Doable, but me I'd rather just keep heading "up" chasing cooler spots and weather.

That makes a lot of sense too!
 
John61CT said:
Running it heavily off bank+inverter means a whole lotta lead, genny running a lot too.

Maybe set it up to (almost) always run off the genny, sized so high-amp charging happens at the same time.

Doable, but me I'd rather just keep heading "up" chasing cooler spots and weather.

Even though I put the Mitsubishi system out there, I'm actually leaning your way.  I'm thinking reasonable solar and then run a Honda 2000 for my microwave and ac when I need it.
 
Yes with solar you can get away with a 1-2 Bulk charging run before it gets hot, then let solar take over the low amp long tail, dedicate the genny to A/C, with excess (if any) maybe driving the fridge.
 
My concern would be dropping that kind of cash for a 'home' unit meant to sit still, being subjected to the rigors of mobile life.

Window shakers are cheap (disposable), if you end up beating it to death.
 
Even at altitude it gets hot. That is the reason I have the systems I do is so I could run a small A/C when it did get hot at 10,000 ft. Half the people said it wasn't possible, the other half said I didn't need it and they were wrong on both accounts. It takes roof space to do it but now I burn hundreds of Ah"s a day if I use the A/C or not. Running the propane fridge off electric doesn't save much propane but running the hot water heater off electric saves a lot. I am doing both right now along with the Engel, TV, hotspots, computer, fans all while still charging the bank.

Smaller rigs require a different approach and the mini split would run on a third of the panel I have. A small generator gives the freedom to run a small A/C anytime as long as you have gas and are where the noise isn't offensive. A swamp cooler takes less power to run the fan and pump but you will need a large store of water. A gallon of gas will last longer in a generator running a small A/C and work in humid conditions too.

Lots of options out there. You just have to find the one that fits your needs and budget.
 
That is a very efficient unit indeed, but your math is a little off. 33.1 SEER equals 29 EER. http://ingramswaterandair.com/eertoseerconversion.php
So if you divide the 6,000 BTU's by 29 you get 207 watts. Still super efficient, then consider the inverter efficiency which typically maxes out at around 90%.)

Now we're at 230 watts at 12v DC. Still great efficiency! A unit like that will typically cost around $2,100 + $500 for a simple installation (as mini-splits usually come precharged so they are pretty easy to install.) 4 GC-2 batteries and about 5-600 watts of flat mounted solar should be plenty. Here's a 1000w pure sine 12v-220v inverter that's 90% efficient for only $125 https://www.amazon.com/WEIKIN-power...8882858&sr=1-16&keywords=inverter+12v+to+220v

Chip
 
tx2sturgis said:
I have been thinking of a small AC unit for my trailer and/or future van build, and this one keeps popping up on my radar:

https://climateright.com/2500-btu-small-ac-and-heater.html

The Climate Right unit is intriguing..thanks for the link.  Unfortunately, the very first "warning" in the manual states "Do not permanently mount unit to moving vehicles" .  They also recommend a minimum 2,000 Watt inverter.  Maybe they are just being overly cautious?
 
Jim Ragsdale said:
The 900 watt power requirement is kinda of nuts for just 2500 btu.  You can get a Frigadaire 5000 btu window unit that uses half that power.

480 watts is whats listed on the spec sheet for cooling.

For the $1100 difference in price, you can buy a LOT more solar panels and it would even out.
 
The EER of that dog house AC is horrible, only 5.2.

For comparison there are several 6,000 btu window shakers with a CEER of 12.1.

For instance this model GE AEM06LV has an EER of 12.3. It consumes 490 watts (only 10 more that the dog house 2,500 BTU ac) but produces 6050 BTUs of cooling power! https://www.ajmadison.com/cgi-bin/ajmadison/AEM06LV.html

This Frigidaire unit is a 5000 BTU window shaker that only draws 410 watts for an EER of 12.2. http://www.frigidaire.com/Home-Comfort/Air-Conditioning/Window-Mounted-AC/FFRE0533S1/

Chip
 
KathyC said:
Unfortunately, the very first "warning" in the manual states "Do not permanently mount unit to moving vehicles" .  They also recommend a minimum 2,000 Watt inverter.  Maybe they are just being overly cautious?


I dunno but this is on their website:

https://climateright.com/air-condit.../rv-trailer-air-conditioning-and-heating.html

The warning is there too. So it may be best to approach this solution with some caution.

Looking at various youtube videos yields mixed reviews, some good, some bad.

Of course, if 10,000 people have good luck you wont find but one or two videos about them.

Get one or two happy customers with a camera and yeah, instant bad review.
 
tx2sturgis said:
480 watts is whats listed on the spec sheet for cooling.

For the $1100 difference in price, you can buy a LOT more solar panels and it would even out.

You are right.  I saw watts but it was for heating not cooling.
 
"Get one or two happy customers with a camera and yeah, instant bad review."


Ooops...

That line SHOULD have read UNhappy customers.


My proof-reader was out of town that day....and my fact-checker was on vacation.
 
Folks here is mechanical refrigeration in a nutshell. When I was told this line I got it instantly and fully understood. YOU DON'T MAKE COLD YOU REMOVE HEAT. What are these things well each person puts off the same energy of a 100 watt light bulb so if you have a small space and you have 2 people in there well you just doubled the amount of heat you have to remove. 10 people I think you get my drift.

How much energy is a 100 watt light bulb 250 -450 BTU if your unit can remove 1K btu per hour you should be very comfortable with one or 2 people add 3 people it can get warm? I use to work at McDermott in Amelia LA as a rigger. We would put our food in a simple wooden box inside that box was a 100 watt light bulb nothing else. That was it just that light bulb. We would work 6 to 9 get a break when we got our break our food we put in the box was so hot you had to cool it. By the time noon rolled in your food was bubbling it was boiling so each human being is putting off considerable energy and mechanical refrigeration removes that heat. They also have to remove any thermal energy that is introduced into the space you are attempting to remove heat. If your unit can't remove that heat you will be warm.

Insulation is key it is just as important to you if you are off grid because you are concerned with manipulating your atmosphere and the less area you have to manipulate the more reasonable it is goign to be for you to be for you to achieve your target range. Accurate knowlege is key to controlling your atmosphere you want to know the weather report you also want to know inside and outside temps. Placement of your ride plays a major role in the amount of energy it is going to cost you to remove that heat. Remember you don't make cold you remove heat so don't introduce heat to your rig. This means you want to stay away from heat islands. You want to stay away from a building that is going to reflect sunlight on your rig. You want to pay attention to all the things that can bring heat on your ride.

I use to deliver stuff in the caves of Mo I would drive what seemed like forever underground they had all these places to store stuff from top secret stuff to cereal. Why becasue there is a temperature constant in there. Caves or abandoned mines are ideal for maintaining a constant temp.
 
I'm in the AC business. I've read lots of the threads here on ways to keep your rig cool. When you look at all of the AC units out there, you have a hard time figuring out which unit is the most efficient. The industry has a number for you and its SEER. Its pretty simply calculated by taking the BTU and dividing it by the watts needed to power the unit.

I too am considering a rig build and I'm also trying to figure out how to use solar to make it all go. Mitsubishi makes the most efficient AC I can find and it is a mini split. The outdoor unit model number is MUZ-FH06NA for the 1/2 Ton (6000btu) unit and the indoor part number is MSZ-FH06NA. Together this combo has a stupidly high SEER rating of 33.1 so if you do the math, that means you can put 6000 btu of cooling in your rig for a "cost" of 181 watts. Its also a heat pump so it will also heat your rig when it gets cold out. (Hello Colorado in the winter?)

The downside here is it is a 220v system. It can actually run with as low as 208 volts. You will need an inverter to run it that puts out that voltage. These units aren't cheap as you might expect. While a window shaker would run you $150, this package wholesales for $1500. But at 181 watts it might be the difference between doable and not doable at any cost.

Obviously, you aren't going to buy it wholesale and you are going to have to get it installed by a licensed AC company. But if you go this route and get quotes from an AC company, you will have an idea what his cost for the units is.


Mitsubishi makes larger versions but the SEER drops as the units get bigger. The 18000 BTU version is only 21 SEER. By the way if you still have a house and the AC is over 6 or 7 years old , you probably are using a 10 SEER system. Here in Florida, we can't install a system of less than 14 SEER per the building code. So in this context a 33 SEER machine is pretty darn efficient.

BUT if you are like me and an AC is a requirement along with off grid solar to power it, it might just be the answer to running AC off solar while boondocking.
Hi Jim, my friend and his team build a roughly 6000 btu unit with a 100w power draw. http://kck.st/3JMLTco
 
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