Most Economical RV Heating ??

[AussieGrant]

I'm planning to buy a used van for my trip to the States.

I live in the Australian hot tropics, so I expect to be using van heating (more than most) on parts of my trip...

I intend to spend more time camping in your 'Bush/Remote/National Park' locations.

What is the 'cheapest to run' and practical heating option to look for in RV's?

Thanks & Cheers

Grant

 

[sushidog]

Solar is cheapest - just let the sun shine in the windows on a dark interior surface. But it doesn't work at night.

Body heat (from a significant other or dog works wonders too) especially in a sleeping bag at night.

The cheapest fuel is propane.

Good insulation will also reduce energy costs. Don't forget Reflectix too - a light weight radiant heat barrier that works well in the summer too (over windows to keep the heat out.)

Chip

 

[Optimistic Paranoid]

Traditional rv furnaces depend on electricity to run their fans. They work ok when plugged in to shore power, but they have a reputation as battery killers when boondocking.

You need to make sure you have a big enough house battery bank, and a way to recharge them every day.

Otherwise, if it kills your battery in the middle of the night, the furnace will quit working.

Regards
John

 

[Van-Tramp]

Cheapest to run? A propane heater, plain and simple. Propane is super cheap for the amount of heat you get.

Cheapest heater? A Mr Buddy can be gotten for under $100. They make a smaller version for less (Little Buddy) but using the 1lb bottles will cost you too much in propane. For the cost, they are great heaters.

Going a step up on quality and safety is the Olympian Catalytic heaters. Yes they cost twice as much, but I think everyone will agree the quality and safety is worth the cost.

In either case, there are some minor other expenses (get a large 20lb propane bottle, a propane line filter and/or regulator, and even the propane lines and mounting device) but for a few hundred dollars you can be warm and toasty without using up battery power which costs significantly more to obtain and keep charged.

---

With all that said, another good investment is a properly rated sleeping bag and even some good thermal underwear. With those, you only need to run your heater for a few hours a day, not 24 hours.

 

[AuricTech]

Building on Van-Tramp's post, any time you burn fuel inside a vehicle's passenger compartment (cooking, heating, light, etc.), it's a good idea to have a carbon monoxide detector.

 

[highdesertranger]

if you are plugged in electric is the cheapest. but for boondocking propane, like others have said the factory propane heaters on rv's are electric hogs. the stand alone heaters being the most frugal. in north America in the summer you probably not need a heater imho. highdesertranger

 

[PastTense]

Does anyone have any numbers for the prices of alternative fuels? If you do this you can use converters to calculate the price for BTU, for example:
http://nepacrossroads.com/fuel-comparison-calculator.php

While I would agree propane is the most convenient I doubt if it is the cheapest. Propane is fairly expensive when you buy it in small quantities like for an RV. I think kerosene would be cheaper on a BTU basis (but I wouldn't use it because of the smoky smell). The really cheap energy source is free wood--but I think there are regulations about picking that up at National Parks, etc.

 

[AussieGrant]

Thanks for all the good advice!

I didn't mention a couple of points. I will use this van, for a few US visits, over a 2 year period. I will be spending time in Canada also.

Have I got this right?
1. 'Shore Power' is just any external mains power source to the RV. i.e. RV Park mains power outlet?
2. With all BUILT-IN van heating I need to consider the fan 'power draw' from my Batteries, when Boondocking?

When I find a good spot I may camp there for 2 weeks without moving.

I'm prepared to spend the $'s I need for good heating & especially van safety.

 

[RoadschoolingMomma]

Propane can get costly if you run it all the time :/ Sp, that is why we invested in electric blankets. They are a great way to stay warm, without going broke

 

[Optimistic Paranoid]

Have I got this right?
1. 'Shore Power' is just any external mains power source to the RV. i.e. RV Park mains power outlet?
2. With all BUILT-IN van heating I need to consider the fan 'power draw' from my Batteries, when Boondocking?

Shore power is just a shorthand way of saying you are plugged in to the electric grid. We apparently got that phrase from the boaters.

Not all heaters use fans. The Mr. Buddy and Wave heaters Vantramp mentioned don't. But battery life is an issue for any heater that uses electric fans. Frankly, mainstream RVs seem like they were designed to drive from campground to campground.

Regards
John

 

[wagoneer]

From my research many great innovations concerning energy use are developed in your part of the world. That being said a wool blanket will go a long way. Conserving energy is a great way to respect the world, using energy wisely, smart. Hope to see you on the road. Older RV's are not meant for boondocking or docking in the "boonies" but can and have been adapted.

 

[offroad]

There is a long discussion about humidity build up inside the van when using propane. Propane converts to water vapor after being burnt. Plus co2. (Correct me folks ?). Most good ones are vented so no issue. But sometimes the humidity gets so high it condenses on cold metal walls. Water on metal makes rust or mold. --- understand how to make sure you have enough ventilation while retaining heat.

 

[LeeRevell]

Shore power is just a shorthand way of saying you are plugged in to the electric grid. We apparently got that phrase from the boaters.

Not all heaters use fans. The Mr. Buddy and Wave heaters Vantramp mentioned don't. But battery life is an issue for any heater that uses electric fans. Frankly, mainstream RVs seem like they were designed to drive from campground to campground.

Regards
John

I have two of the Big Buddy heaters, that use two 1lb bottles each, with a special fitting for connecting to the external larger tank. It also includes a fan running off either D-cell batteries (don't last too long) or a 6VDC wall wart. So it would have a minimal electric useage, if you run the fan. I really don't see much advantage to the fan inside a standard home, but it may help in the smaller space of a van. The 4,500/9,000/18,000 BTU settings give you more options on heat too. Useful in the northern latitudes. Cost is only thirty or so dollars more than the regular Buddy heater.

 

[VanLifeCrisis]

4500 btu is going to roast a van without a fan in no time

 

[HarmonicaBruce]

Maybe I'm tougher than the average guy, but I don't use any heat, just a nice stocking cap, a one piece union suit, and a good sleeping bag with an extra blanket or 2 or 3 and wool socks. I'm out below freezing all the time, no problem.

 

[VanLifeCrisis]

definitely tougher than me buddy! lol

 

[ccbreder]

I used a 28 foot rv for a Jersey winter. I didn't find a problem with amount of propane or the power from the battery for the fan. The thermostat kept the temperature comfy, and the vented heater kept me dry.

 

[Optimistic Paranoid]

I used a 28 foot rv for a Jersey winter. I didn't find a problem with amount of propane or the power from the battery for the fan. The thermostat kept the temperature comfy, and the vented heater kept me dry.

How big was your battery bank? How, and how often did you recharge it? How much did you deplete it every night?

The anecdotal reports I've seen on power problems came from people who had the single, factory installed, 12 volt rv/marine house battery.

Regards
John

 

[ccbreder]

I only had a deep cycle bank, less than 200 amps, I don't remember details. But the heater and fan operated on and off with the thermostat. The battery wasn't stone dead by morning, but it wouldn't go more than less than 10 hours with out a charge. The temps were not lower than 10F. but some with wind.

 

[flying kurbmaster]

Does anyone have any numbers for the prices of alternative fuels? If you do this you can use converters to calculate the price for BTU, for example:
http://nepacrossroads.com/fuel-comparison-calculator.php

While I would agree propane is the most convenient I doubt if it is the cheapest. Propane is fairly expensive when you buy it in small quantities like for an RV. I think kerosene would be cheaper on a BTU basis (but I wouldn't use it because of the smoky smell). The really cheap energy source is free wood--but I think there are regulations about picking that up at National Parks, etc.

I agree with PT on this one propane is convenient but not cheap, other then wood, I think diesel would be the cheapest.