Is this van worth considering? - 2001 GMC Safari Build

[MoTiger]

2001 GMC Safari - "Professional Architect Build" - 220K miles - $7000 (see link below)

I'm actually looking for a minivan and I don't know anything about GMCs, much less the Safari, but this thing is already built out for camping and looks pretty neat. However, it has 220,000 miles and is 19 years old.

Is there any compelling reason why I should seriously consider this vehicle for van dwelling?



https://boulder.craigslist.org/cto/d/boulder-adventure-safari-professional/7135765695.html

 

[desert_sailing]

I am still learning all the nuances of nomadic living and van build out. @7k that to me seems way overpriced especially at those miles I do like the Astro/Safari family and even the ones with out a "build" are expensive. i am not sure why. I have seen many good rigs for far less than this.

It would be great to have something ready to go more or less. I think you could find a reliable and more spacious rig at a better deal not necessarily cheaper however possible tho.

Nice find tho! HF shopping!

Coworker of mine just found a class c 56000 miles an older model but in outstanding condition and mechanically sound.. for 1k... LOL

 

[user 423]

2001 GMC Safari - "Professional Architect Build" - 220K miles - $7000 (see link below)

However, it has 220,000 miles and is 19 years old.

If you plan to do a lot of travelling and aren't capable of doing mechanical repairs but would have to rely on shops, you should spend your money on a newer,lower mileage ride IMHO.  The inside and how it's equipped is nice but is it worth $5000 to you?

https://www.nadaguides.com/Cars/2001/GMC/Safari-1-2-Ton-V6/Van-SLT/Values

 

[highdesertranger]

who ever designed it might have been an architect but they didn't know squat about attaching hardware to plywood.

highdesertranger

 

[maki2]

Definitely did not do a pro job on installing the drawer runner hardware.  But the rest of it looks OK. Of course most of the job of fastening things together is not seen because it is done from inside of the components.

 

[maki2]

Now that I took a look at the pdf file of the build where I could enlarge it to +400 I can see that he chose to use T-nuts as fasteners for the drawer runners. He knows a bit more than squat about fastening things. They might no look as pretty as other fasteners but that choice has benefits. First of all he was able to mount the drawer runners directly against the 1/2 plywood sides. He realized that putting tapered wood screws into that thickness of plywood would not give sufficient grip strength. But with a T-nut you can use a fully threaded machine screw for sufficient grip strength without any chanced of stripping out the hole under stress as could happen with a wood screw.

T-nuts are not all that lovely to look at and you rarely see them on an exposed surface but they are a good fastener system that has been used for a very long time and it allowed for a flush surface on the cabinet exterior versus using other types of nuts.

I myself would have sewn up something like a molle system board with removable pouches to put on that end of the cabinet to hide the T-nuts. It would have look perfectly natural to have a pouch system there to hold things like maps, lights, cords, sun screen, bug spray, water bottle, etc. Just pull off a pouch as needed for a hike or for shower supplies, small tools, etc.

 

[riptorn]

200,000 + miles
Not speaking about price or quality of build.
City ride or party rig at the beach on weekends , sure.
Traveling , Bring a tow truck !

 

[chris84]

I used t nuts all over my build. I don't see the problem at all with the t nuts at all. Maybe it is something I missed in engineering school or years of building things. I have never had one pull out or fail. I can't say the same for wood screws. I've even seen very large lag screws fail, but not a machine screw into a t nut, the wooden part will fail first.

I used 1/4 t nuts in wood, 1/4 rivnuts in the steel and almost no wood screws for anything structural.

 

[crofter]

The van is a four wheel drive in Colorado, a snow state, so there is the value. 

For dwelling, I would not like the low roof, can't stand up in it. I did not notice solar or a refrigerator, or a potty/ shower system. Did I miss something in that ad?

And in the second pic it looks like there are oil or fluid leaks left on the street in that spot, so a mechanical ckeck over is in order.
-crofter

 

[Qxxx]

Van is still on CL, so apparently OP didn't buy it.

If I were living in Colorado, which I did for over 20 years, there is no way I'd have anything but 4WD. On the down side, 20 yo and >200K miles and $7000, not a chance in hell I would ever buy it. Maybe for $2000. So all in all, what I "would" do in that situation is buy a 4WD pickup truck as a starting point, and figure it out from there.

 

[crofter]

.... buy a 4WD pickup truck as a starting point, and figure it out from there.

I noticed that the floor plans on those 5th wheels are nice. The bed in the front and big windows in the back to check out the nice spot you are camped at. Bottom dollar about $12,500 on the used 5th wheels makes a well fitted out van a better deal IMHO.
-crofter

 

[Qxxx]

Since we're theorizing, I'd never get a 5th wheel, mainly because the 1st thing I'd do with the 4X4 pickup is put a "tall" topper shell on it. This would give me a self-contained setup when away from the main camp for exploring back roads. So, then the rest of the option would be some sort of trailer.

So this works multiple ways: 4WD for snow and outback roads, lightweight minimal camper setup for away trips, and full-blown setup like living in S&B for longer term stays. Maybe time to trade my van in.

 

[crofter]

....put a "tall" topper shell on it. This would give me a self-contained setup when away from the main camp for exploring back roads....

That was the rig I started out in, but I thought it was not convenient other than 4 wheeling, which was awesome.
-crofter

 

[Qxxx]

You're right, it's not convenient as your primary and "only" dwelling, rather as a place to stay when going places the primary rig (trailer) could never get into.

 

[highdesertranger]

a couple of points about the original post and ad.

that van is NOT a 4 wheel drive(4WD). it is an all wheel drive(AWD). there is a huge difference between the two, the biggest difference being at 220k an AWD is done. I would never own an AWD anything even my ATV is a true 4WD.

second and I am surprised nobody brought this up. in the one picture there is a huge oil/antifreeze stain on the pavement. I am totally surprised the person that took that pic let it slip by.

highdesertranger

 

[Qxxx]

See post #9.

Re AWD, a huge number of cars and SUVs "today" are AWD, but also have automatic transmissions, and there is minimal grinding and stuttering between front and rear axles when turning on dry pavement, as there is in a true 4WD vehicle.

Also as I understand it (but then I'm always wrong), they have transmissions that keep them in FWD most of the time, with only a bit of power (5% or so) sent to the rear wheels, and only actually apply significant power to the rear if there is wheel slippage. Whether that matters or not, I'll tell you in another 100K miles.

 

[highdesertranger]

actually most AWD's have a differential that replaces the actual transfer case. so as with any standard differential the power goes to the wheel with the LEAST traction. exactly what you don't want. now some of the newer ones have a computer controlling where the power goes. personally I don't want that either, just more complicated systems to fail. highdesertranger

 

[MoTiger]

I appreciate everyone who weighed in on this. I'll post a separate thread about my recent van purchase, which is a 2009 Toyota Sienna.

Thanks again,

Greg

 

[Qxxx]

MT, looks like you made the right decision in not buying the van.

Regarding AWD, I remember watching videos a few years back, and different SUVs had very different characteristics on an icy ramp. The following article mentions multiple different features, one of which is Traction Control, if you paid for it. Namely, if a tire spins, then the system will apply braking to it, which automatically transfers power to the nonspinning wheel on the other side. So depends on the features you bought.

https://www.extremetech.com/extreme...drive-works-and-gets-you-through-the-blizzard

There is another feature called Electronic Stability Control, which I know pretty much saved my !ife on one occasion several years ago.