I need a stronger Lug Wrench
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SternWake
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If one lubes the threads and mating surfaces then the torque required is less.
Using a torque wrench on wheel lugs is obviously not necessary, but with disc brakes it is very wise, as overtightened or unevenly tightened lugs can distort the rotors and give that brake pedal pulsing feel.
WD-40 is best used as an adhesive remover or for displacing moisture, in my opinion. For a penetrating fluid or for long term lubrication, use something designed for that purpose.
My lug wrench is a 1/2 inch drive 1960's craftsman 20 inch breaker bar with 3 inch extension and 3/4 inch socket. My factory service manual says 90 to 110Lb ft of torque on the lugs. I don't apply lube to them when seating them, but I do make sure the threads are clean, and I will use a spray lubricant to clean the threads of both nut and stud, but then I wipe as much off as possible, then torque the lugs in 3 stages to 100Lb/ft, then cover the ends of the exposed threads of the stud with some sillycone grease.
In general I rotate my tires and inspect brakes way more often than necessary, and have no fear of being unable to remove a lug, but those with a recent purchase should ensure they have the ability to apply a lot of torque. When my van was new to me, I had to replace a rear tire on teh side of I-10, in New mexico, in june. 113f.
I could not get the lug off. I wound up having to lower the van, and use the 4 foot tall bumper jack as a breaker bar over the lugwrnech, to loosen the bolts, then rejack vehicle.
Quality Impact wrenches can burp bolts loose that a huge breaker bar had issues with.
My makita impact driver( for screws) can get the wheel lugs to about 60Lb ft, but has no chance of removing tham at 100Lb/ft.
When wheels are off, inspect the flat mating surfaces for rust. which would inhibit rim from sitting where intended.
Using a torque wrench on wheel lugs is obviously not necessary, but with disc brakes it is very wise, as overtightened or unevenly tightened lugs can distort the rotors and give that brake pedal pulsing feel.
WD-40 is best used as an adhesive remover or for displacing moisture, in my opinion. For a penetrating fluid or for long term lubrication, use something designed for that purpose.
My lug wrench is a 1/2 inch drive 1960's craftsman 20 inch breaker bar with 3 inch extension and 3/4 inch socket. My factory service manual says 90 to 110Lb ft of torque on the lugs. I don't apply lube to them when seating them, but I do make sure the threads are clean, and I will use a spray lubricant to clean the threads of both nut and stud, but then I wipe as much off as possible, then torque the lugs in 3 stages to 100Lb/ft, then cover the ends of the exposed threads of the stud with some sillycone grease.
In general I rotate my tires and inspect brakes way more often than necessary, and have no fear of being unable to remove a lug, but those with a recent purchase should ensure they have the ability to apply a lot of torque. When my van was new to me, I had to replace a rear tire on teh side of I-10, in New mexico, in june. 113f.
I could not get the lug off. I wound up having to lower the van, and use the 4 foot tall bumper jack as a breaker bar over the lugwrnech, to loosen the bolts, then rejack vehicle.
Quality Impact wrenches can burp bolts loose that a huge breaker bar had issues with.
My makita impact driver( for screws) can get the wheel lugs to about 60Lb ft, but has no chance of removing tham at 100Lb/ft.
When wheels are off, inspect the flat mating surfaces for rust. which would inhibit rim from sitting where intended.
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According to Ford specs the torque should be 140ft lbs. I have a 93 Chevy motorhome with duals and I don't leave the drive way without my DeWalt 1\2" impact driver and my torque wrench. If I have to change a flat I might as well do it the easy way. Jeff
Question:
Did the nuts rotate ever so slightly and then 'lock down'?
Or will they not turn at all, not even a tiny bit?
If they turned a small amount, a few degrees, and then stopped, or locked, I'm guessing there is either rust on the studs or the studs are damaged from being over-torqued at one time or another. Also, if aftermarket nuts were installed by some previous owner or shop, those things can be a problem, if the threads are not 'chased' by the installer.
Either way, they may end up breaking off when you finally are able to apply enough torque to remove the nuts.
And in the future, when you do get the nuts off, and/or have the studs replaced, I would use anti-sieze on the studs.
And if you have to replace the nuts, (likely) either buy a thread chaser or go to a machine shop and pay them a few dollars to have the threads in the nuts chased.
Made a big difference for me.
Did the nuts rotate ever so slightly and then 'lock down'?
Or will they not turn at all, not even a tiny bit?
If they turned a small amount, a few degrees, and then stopped, or locked, I'm guessing there is either rust on the studs or the studs are damaged from being over-torqued at one time or another. Also, if aftermarket nuts were installed by some previous owner or shop, those things can be a problem, if the threads are not 'chased' by the installer.
Either way, they may end up breaking off when you finally are able to apply enough torque to remove the nuts.
And in the future, when you do get the nuts off, and/or have the studs replaced, I would use anti-sieze on the studs.
And if you have to replace the nuts, (likely) either buy a thread chaser or go to a machine shop and pay them a few dollars to have the threads in the nuts chased.
Made a big difference for me.
Ballenxj
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tx2sturgis said:
This is actually a really good idea. Wouldn't hurt a thing to freshen the threads up before putting new (or old) nuts back on. This would help insure proper torque as well as making things easier for future removals when needed.
Thanks!
I made all of it up.
Actually I figured someone will chime in about getting their nuts chased, but given time, it will drift that way...I'm sure of it.
We just assume the new female threads are good to go, but many times they have some bits of the machining process, tiny fragments of metal, or rough edges, and those little shards can effectively lock down the nut then you try to remove it later on.
Many years ago, I was making regular deliveries into automotive manufacturing plants and their suppliers.
In those days, truck drivers were allowed into the manufacturing area to help with loading and/or unloading...that is mostly gone now, but back then, we did get into the assembly line area and talked with workers all the time.
Either in a separate area, or near the assembly line, they always had someone who's job it was to do QC on the various threaded fasteners, nuts and bolts, used to assemble the wheels, hubs, brakes, axles, etc. Part of his or her job was to check and clean the threads by manually 'chasing' them. It helps your local mechanics and you and me, when the job was done correctly years ago at the factory.
Then, add in the rust that accumulates especially in the coastal areas or up north in the rustbelt, and yeah....its a problem sometimes.
Been there....done that.
I made all of it up.
Actually I figured someone will chime in about getting their nuts chased, but given time, it will drift that way...I'm sure of it.
We just assume the new female threads are good to go, but many times they have some bits of the machining process, tiny fragments of metal, or rough edges, and those little shards can effectively lock down the nut then you try to remove it later on.
Many years ago, I was making regular deliveries into automotive manufacturing plants and their suppliers.
In those days, truck drivers were allowed into the manufacturing area to help with loading and/or unloading...that is mostly gone now, but back then, we did get into the assembly line area and talked with workers all the time.
Either in a separate area, or near the assembly line, they always had someone who's job it was to do QC on the various threaded fasteners, nuts and bolts, used to assemble the wheels, hubs, brakes, axles, etc. Part of his or her job was to check and clean the threads by manually 'chasing' them. It helps your local mechanics and you and me, when the job was done correctly years ago at the factory.
Then, add in the rust that accumulates especially in the coastal areas or up north in the rustbelt, and yeah....its a problem sometimes.
Been there....done that.
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