How can I run a CPAP in my tiny van?

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Darn, I was just going to ask if I could get away with using a single 100W panel, hooked to a single 12V 125Ah AGM battery.  
I really only need to run a CPAP machine that runs 6.67A for 8 hours a night.  That should be 53.36 Ah per 8 hours of sleep.
That would be less than 50% of the battery capacity per night and I'd have all day to charge it back up again (weather permitting).  

One major downside to running a single panel is that I plan, once I'm full-timing it, to have a kayak on the roof 100% of the time (at least when I'm not in it), and I know this will cause some shadowing of the cells.  I read somewhere on this board that when you block one cell, you're actually blocking an entire string of connected cells.  For that reason, more panels, and thus more separated strings, would be a great advantage.

My reason for considering fewer panels has nothing to do with cost, but logistics.  I'm pretty sure I don't have enough room between my roof rack and the large beam that supports the carport I park under.  Once I move to full-time van dwelling, I could add an additional panel, but right now I just don't have the room.  

Explanation: My van is slightly higher in the rear, so anything mounted up top, especially long things, like 8 feet of solar panels and plywood, will be at risk of hitting the beam the further back it extends.  
It's possible that I could mount the plywood slightly higher at the front of the van, making the panels level with the earth instead of the van, but I'm not sure what that would do to my mpg.  

Uh Oh.  I just took another look and It seems I only have 2" of room between my rack's rear crossbar and the wooden beam of my carport, and the Renogy panels are 1.5" thick.  I was planning to mount the panels to a 1/2" piece of plywood, but combined that would be 2", and that's without taking into account the z-brackets.  
Even if I forgo the brackets, opting for large vents cut into the plywood, it would still hit the beam!  I'm doomed!  :(  

Can I drill holes into the frames of the panels?  if so, I could still mount a single panel directly to the crossbars and save the 1/2" the plywood would take up.  
I could also secure two of the panels to each other using two, 8' lengths of aluminum channel, and then bolt that directly to the crossbars.  
Is there any risk of drilling into wires if I should cut holes in the frame of the solar panels?  

 
BigT said:
Darn, I was just going to ask if I could get away with using a single 100W panel, hooked to a single 12V 125Ah AGM battery.  
I really only need to run a CPAP machine that runs 6.67A for 8 hours a night.  That should be 53.36 Ah per 8 hours of sleep.
That would be less than 50% of the battery capacity per night and I'd have all day to charge it back up again (weather permitting).  

One major downside to running a single panel is that I plan, once I'm full-timing it, to have a kayak on the roof 100% of the time (at least when I'm not in it), and I know this will cause some shadowing of the cells.  I read somewhere on this board that when you block one cell, you're actually blocking an entire string of connected cells.  For that reason, more panels, and thus more separated strings, would be a great advantage.

My reason for considering fewer panels has nothing to do with cost, but logistics.  I'm pretty sure I don't have enough room between my roof rack and the large beam that supports the carport I park under.  Once I move to full-time van dwelling, I could add an additional panel, but right now I just don't have the room.  

Explanation: My van is slightly higher in the rear, so anything mounted up top, especially long things, like 8 feet of solar panels and plywood, will be at risk of hitting the beam the further back it extends.  
It's possible that I could mount the plywood slightly higher at the front of the van, making the panels level with the earth instead of the van, but I'm not sure what that would do to my mpg.  

Uh Oh.  I just took another look and It seems I only have 2" of room between my rack's rear crossbar and the wooden beam of my carport, and the Renogy panels are 1.5" thick.  I was planning to mount the panels to a 1/2" piece of plywood, but combined that would be 2", and that's without taking into account the z-brackets.  
Even if I forgo the brackets, opting for large vents cut into the plywood, it would still hit the beam!  I'm doomed!  :(  

Can I drill holes into the frames of the panels?  if so, I could still mount a single panel directly to the crossbars and save the 1/2" the plywood would take up.  
I could also secure two of the panels to each other using two, 8' lengths of aluminum channel, and then bolt that directly to the crossbars.  
Is there any risk of drilling into wires if I should cut holes in the frame of the solar panels?  

Have you considered using portable solar panels rather than roof mount at least until you're full-timing it.

It would solve your low hanging beam problem and also solve the problem of shadows from the kayak.
 
One option for panels is the Renogy 100W bendable monocrystalline panel, which is only 0.12" thick.  They're comparatively expensive ($219.99 per panel), but they'd be a lot easier to mount.  Going that route would also let you select the charge controller that best suits your needs, instead of getting whatever charge controller Renogy bundles with their kit.
 
AuricTech said:
One option for panels is the Renogy 100W bendable monocrystalline panel, which is only 0.12" thick.  They're comparatively expensive ($219.99 per panel), but they'd be a lot easier to mount.  Going that route would also let you select the charge controller that best suits your needs, instead of getxting whatever charge controller Renogy bundles with their kit.

The best i could hope for from a 130watt flat mounted panel was 62 ah in a day at 32' n in summer.

Also the rate of discharge will be higher than the 20 hour rate. So peukert says the actual capacity of the battery will be less at that rate.

Divide capacity by 20 and that is the rate of discharge that the battery is rated for.  Amp draws over this rate reduce  overall capacity.  Rates under will increase overall capacity. Shadow s kill panel output by a huge factor.

Without more shade free solar wattage your batteries will be punch drunk after a few days is solar is the only charging source. 
 
AuricTech said:
One option for panels is the Renogy 100W bendable monocrystalline panel, which is only 0.12" thick.  They're comparatively expensive ($219.99 per panel), but they'd be a lot easier to mount.  Going that route would also let you select the charge controller that best suits your needs, instead of getting whatever charge controller Renogy bundles with their kit.

That's pretty cool, but I thought panels needed to be elevated to ensure they didn't overheat and lose strength.  I wonder how these would do fastened directly to a piece of plywood?  They do sound interesting, though.  Thanks for the idea!  :)
 
You see how the Ubolts hang down from that tube? Get some from Home Depot and get a pressure treated 2x4 and bolt it down below the tube across the van. Bolt the panel to the 2x4. It should be just about flush with the tube or maybe a very little below it. If you need to raise it to make it flush you could just use washers.

Without seeing the whole thing, I can't give you too many details, just think in terms of hanging it below the tube. I have a friend who spends a lot of time in the forest and he did exactly that to protect his panels from tree branches. Worked great!!!

Yes, you can drill a hole in the frame, I've done it often.

I think the Renogy 200 watt kit and a single AGM is a great plan! Except I'd get two golf carts.
Bob
 
Thanks, Bob, I thought about suspending the panels from under the rack, but I was told that even the slightest shadow on the panel would have grave effects on the efficiency of the charge.  

The crossbars (tubes) can not be moved forward or backwards (further apart) to accommodate the length of the panel, as they're mounted to permanent, factory hard-points on the roof.
Either end of a single panel or two locations on each of two panels would be permanently under the shadow of the tubes.  
Sounds like your friend in the forest did it, though.  Maybe he's running multiple panels and can afford more shadows?
 
online guide from the manufacturer

http://activehealthcare.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/11/333_ResMedBatteryGuideUpdated.pdf

Like the part that says you can work with a modified sine wave adapter for my S9 model. Just needs to be 150W. So will give it a try. Also below, so will be looking for those certifications on the inverter.

It is also recommended that the inverter

is certified by an accredited testing
and certification organisation, such as VDE, TSU or BSI in addition to CE
markings for EU countries or UL mark
ings for the USA.
Please contact your
local ResMed office for more informatio
 
If you use the top tube, you should be nearly flush. The tube is about 2 inches and the frame of the panel is 1 1/2 so just use spacers to raise it up level with the tube. If you tried to hang it below the bottom tube then it would be 4 inches low and you would get a shadow. You could use an aluminum angle iron and run it front and rear on the bottom tube and put the panel on it using spacers to get it up level with the top tube.

The Renogy 100 watt panel is not very big it should go across the van between the tubes. Although I would use the biggest panel I could fit inbetween the tubes unless you can get to two 100 panels in there.

Granted, I haven't seen the whole thing so I don't know what you are working with. But from what I've seen I think you could hang it underneath and have it come up flush.
Bob
 
akrvbob said:
If you use the top tube, you should be nearly flush. The tube is about 2 inches and the frame of the panel is 1 1/2 so just use spacers to raise it up level with the tube. If you tried to hang it below the bottom tube then it would be 4 inches low and you would get a shadow. 

I'm not sure what you mean when you say "the top tube".  There is no top tube or bottom tube.  Are you talking about the piece of galvanized conduit/pipe I have mounted to the crossbars with u-bolts?  If so, that is for the awning and there's only one piece that runs along the left side of the rack.  
If I had a second piece that ran along the right side, I'd have to mount the panels sideways which would result in half (or more) of both panels being completely shadowed by the kayak.  

I thought you meant that I should mount the solar panels lengthwise (along the van front to back) beneath the crossbars and simply not worry about them being shadowed by the rack's crossbars.  If this is doable, I'll gladly use that system as will/would greatly simplify my project.  

 
offroad said:
online guide from the manufacturer

http://activehealthcare.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/11/333_ResMedBatteryGuideUpdated.pdf

Like the part that says you can work with a modified sine wave adapter for my S9 model. Just needs to be 150W. So will give it a try. Also below, so will be looking for those certifications on the inverter.

It is also recommended that the inverter

*******
 

So I bought a 150 watt inverter from amazon for $27 on sale.  Tripp-Lite brand modified sign wave. 

http://amzn.com/B0000AI0OE

It works great with my Resmed S9 cpap.  No issues at all, but I do not use the humidifier on my S9.  Will try it tonight while I sleep and see if everything functions fine for the seven hours.

Attached it to a 8 D alkaline cell battery pack for a 12 volt source (O2 cool battery pack).  That pack can supposedly only supply 12V at 1 amp, and it still runs fine.  Not sure how long a pack of D cells will last before the volt drops too much. http://amzn.com/B0018EGJNE
 
The D cell pack I was using/trialing did not last. The voltage dropped and caused the under voltage alarm to trigger on the inverter. It lasted only two hours before the voltage dropped on fresh d cell batteries.

Looks like I will need to get a secondary battery bank and find a way to charge it. There are several ways to do an auxiliary battery, as the solar cell system folks know. Am torn between planning a solar cell charging source, and its costs; and just using street power to charge a battery that will last me a few days.

I could even just use my existing vehicle battery and monitor its effect, before letting my battery get so low I can not start the vehicle. Maybe get a low voltage alarm, and a external jumper pack to keep as insurance to start my car.
 
Am planning to buy a 10 amp 12 volt charger at Walmart for $50, and a 12V Deep Cycle battery for $75.  So for $125 I have a power source that can last me a few days.  While I am traveling, if I can not find an outlet to charge the battery back up, I would go to any local garage and ask them to charge my battery  during the day or overnight for $5 and bet I would have no difficulty getting that done.

Eventually I need solar for power convenience. 

So including my previously bought inverter, and some power cables and clamps and adapters I think for grand total of $200 I have a simple adaptable power system. 

This is a much better cost that the typical cpap company charges (had quotes of $400 - quite silly price).
  
 
offroad said:
Am planning to buy a 10 amp 12 volt charger at Walmart for $50, and a 12V Deep Cycle battery for $75.  So for $125 I have a power source that can last me a few days.  

Eventually I need solar for power convenience. 

So including my previously bought inverter, and some power cables and clamps and adapters I think for grand total of $200 I have a simple adaptable power system. 

This is a much better cost that the typical cpap company charges (had quotes of $400 - quite silly price).
  

I'm seeing $250 to $300 for CPAP-specific battery packs, and that's just ridiculous, especially since I'm reading that the manufacturer doesn't recommend charging their system off the car's battery/ACC plug.  

If I'm going to spend that kind of money, I'm going to get a system that I can run a lot more than just my CPAP off of.  
I'm torn between installing a solar kit and just buying a single AGM deep cycle battery and a 120V plug-in battery charger so I can run the machine for a few days.  I can always add the panels later should I decide to stay out for more than day or two at a time.  
 
Am going to try to make my deep cycle battery last three days before needing a charge. Then will find an outlet or a garage to charge it.
 
offroad said:
Am going to try to make my deep cycle battery last three days before needing a charge. Then will find an outlet or a garage to charge it.

Ended up with a mostly used car battery. Since I only need 1 amp per hour over eight hours, a free used car battery will work for me. Can run my Cpap via inverter for two days on that battery. Volts drop to 12.1 but that is the minimum most battery statistics show. Then I use a small Stanley 12v charger ($30 at Walmart) that pushes 8 amps back into the battery to store about 13.2 volts; and charger is so small that I can store the charger in the battery box with the battery, for convenience.

Good to go for three days.
 
Since it's looking more and more unlikely that I'll be living in my tiny Transit Connect any time soon, I'm wondering if this 160W panel I found on Amazon would do the trick?

http://www.amazon.com/Grape-Solar-G...7759&sr=1-6&keywords=150+watt+solar+panel#Ask

Instead of needing to run my CPAP off the battery for 8 hours a night, every night, it's looking more likely that I will only be running it for 3 or 4 hours a day while napping on my lunch break, and maybe a full 8 hours on the occasional weekend camping trip. I'll also have the option to fully charge the battery off a 120V charger when needed.

A rule of thumb I see posted a lot on this site is, "1 Watt of solar for each 1 Amp-hour the battery is rated for."
I'm hoping I can run a single 160 Watt panel, for space saving purposes, to a single 125 - 150 AH AGM deep cycle battery.

Given I don't plan on running anything but the 6.67 Amp CPAP machine, and maybe a couple LED lights, Does this seem like a workable option?
 

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