How can I run a CPAP in my tiny van?

Van Living Forum

Help Support Van Living Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
Lost in the world said:
Having properly sized Fuses on everything is always a good thing. 

I put a 25A fuse at the battery, but I have yet to put one between my single 190W panel and charge controller.

SternWake

A digital multimeter is a great too to have, A clamp on Digital multimeter is significantly better in this lifestyle as one can then test the current draw of any single device or the charging current from any charging source.

The more measuring tools the better. 


That's my thinking, too.  A volt meter is nice, but a volt meter with a clamp-on Amp meter, ohm meter, etc. is even better and offers a lot more uses.
 
Sealed agm batteries don't gas, but honestly lead acid won't either if you charge it properly. The gases aren't particularly toxic (hydrogen and oxygen from electrolysis) but they are highly flammable if they're allowed to concentrate in, say, a sealed battery box. As long as you use a vent/fan, which you will probably want anyway, you won't have any problems. Easy formula for calculating battery needs: math up the total ah you expect to draw per day, and double it. If you're running a fan/lights/laptop make sure to consider that. A solar setup your size could be had for ~$650 tops, but that's assuming you're going to use more power than just the cpap. Solar is definitely the way to go though. There's a bit of investment but free were effortless power is fantastic. My recommendations:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00F9HUXWO/ref=ya_aw_od_pi?ie=UTF8&psc=1
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00FF1KGT4/ref=ya_aw_od_pi?ie=UTF8&psc=1
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00S...a+inverter&dpPl=1&dpID=41aeoBWHMOL&ref=plSrch
Plus you'd need to find at least 100ah or so battery. That panel will fill a 250ah bank in a day though, that's basically half of my system.
 
Sealed AGM batteries can and do offgass, when overcharged.

If a flooded lead acid battery does not offgass, it is not getting fully charged.

The degree to which ist offgasses is argueable, but anybody who observes the insides of their cells during the last 20% of charge will see bubbles rising.  Anybody who claims that a properly  and fully charged flooded battery does not offgas is simply incorrect.

As for only oxygen and hydrogen leaving a battery, well that is not true either.  A sulfuric acid mist is carried with that oxygen and hydrogen.

Whether offgassing is noticeable or not is argueable, whether it occurs, is not.  It does happen, and it has to happen for the flooded battery to be fully charged.  Yes slower rates of charging will reduce the gassing, but it does not eliminate it.

Just because someone might never smell sulfur, or ever see a bubble rise at 14.5 volts with the cell caps off, does NOT mean offgassing does not occur.  Whether this offgassing is dangerous, unpleasant, unhealthy or worrysome, or not a factor in any given usage, well argue over that all you want but do not make up facts saying that a properly and fully charged battery does not offgass.

It does, it has to.  If a flooded battery does not offgass, it is simply not getting fully charged.  You're are welcome to cycle your battery below 80% charged to keep offgassing from ever occuring, just dont complain when 'it no longer takes a charge', and then blame the battery.
 
SternWake said:
Sealed AGM batteries can and do offgass, when overcharged.

I can honestly say I have experienced this happening with my system.

If a flooded lead acid battery does not offgass, it is not getting fully charged.

I have researched for many hours, and this is gospel.  Offgassing is an indication of the chemical activity that creates the electrical charge.  


The degree to which ist offgasses is argueable, but anybody who observes the insides of their cells during the last 20% of charge will see bubbles rising.  Anybody who claims that a properly  and fully charged flooded battery does not offgas is simply incorrect.

As for only oxygen and hydrogen leaving a battery, well that is not true either.  A sulfuric acid mist is carried with that oxygen and hydrogen.

Simple chemistry.  Scientifically proven during basic high school and college CHEM1 tests

Whether offgassing is noticeable or not is argueable, whether it occurs, is not.  It does happen, and it has to happen for the flooded battery to be fully charged.  Yes slower rates of charging will reduce the gassing, but it does not eliminate it.

Just because someone might never smell sulfur, or ever see a bubble rise at 14.5 volts with the cell caps off, does NOT mean offgassing does not occur.  Whether this offgassing is dangerous, unpleasant, unhealthy or worrisome, or not a factor in any given usage, well argue over that all you want but do not make up facts saying that a properly and fully charged battery does not offgass.

It does, it has to.  If a flooded battery does not offgas, it is simply not getting fully charged.  You're are welcome to cycle your battery below 80% charged to keep off gassing from ever occurring, just don't complain when 'it no longer takes a charge', and then blame the battery.

Sternwake, You could teach advanced courses in chemistry and electronics.  Do you by chance have a degree? 

I have worked on household electrical and computer electronics for many years.  You have always been able to put 3 months of advanced information in one post.  That is why I always come back here with the hard questions.
 
There is no question that Flooded Lead Acid batteries off gas, they even occasionally blow up. There is a real risk.

The only question is how much risk is there and how risk tolerant are you?

My answer is I think the risk is low and well within my tolerance of risk. I allowed societies constant fear-mongering to control the first 40 years of my life, but I'm through with that! Now I embrace risk, within reason, as an essential part of a whole, healthy life. Flooded Lead Acid batteries are well within my understanding of a minor risk.

On the other hand the problem is easily solved by buying AGMs which drastically reduce the risk, even though they don't 100% eliminate it.

All you have to do is pay twice as much, and either find a way to meet their stringent charging demands or replace them more often, maybe much more often.

I like simple things and a simple life so I use good quality, name brand Flooded Lead Acid golf cart batteries that are reasonably priced, easy to charge and last a long time.
Bob
 
I can't get by not using the humidifier on my CPAP, likely because I use the nasal pillow. I'm a side sleeper and a face mask gets push to the side, also I can't find one that fits properly, sounds like I'm sleeping in a wind storm. I can get buy with the humidifier set at a low setting of 2 which would use less power. However, I found out by accident that even with the heating unit turn off about half of the water in the tank had been evaporated helping keep my sinus and throat from getting dry.
 
I'm lucky that I don't need the humidifier or heat attachment. I do just fine with the pump alone and it draws so little power my tiny AGM is more than enough to run it for a few days at a time.
I assume you've tried various sizes of the nasal pillow? I sleep on my back and side, but I have no problems with keeping it in place while I'm sleeping.
I can't stand the masks that go over your nose and mouth. I feel like I'm wearing a muzzle.
 
Mattkcc said:
I can't get by not using the humidifier on my CPAP, likely because I use the nasal pillow. I'm a side sleeper and a face mask gets push to the side, also I can't find one that fits properly, sounds like I'm sleeping in a wind storm. I can get buy with the humidifier set at a low setting of 2 which would use less power. However, I found out by accident that even with the heating unit turn off about half of the water in the tank had been evaporated helping keep my sinus and throat from getting dry.

An important reminder.  You can not run a Respironics cpap humidifier off a square sinewave inverter.  Yes I realize you can run it straight off DC.. just don't plug the thing into a cheap inverter.  You will break the humidifier. 

I, too, am on cpap and it complicated van living..... AND it sucks.  I've been on it since my late 20s. Tried to get off it with a MAD but couldn't sleep with that either.  Historically I also can not sleep without teh humidifier and when it runs out of water I will wake up and be unable to go back to sleep.  Like you I use nasal pillows, after going through around 15 different masks.

You might be able to use a DIY heated tube to place of the humidifier.  What people did on the cpap forum before Respironics came out with 'official' heated tubing, they wrapped the tube around a 'lizard heater'.  It is this long 'string?' that you put inside a lizard cage and providers heat.  Don't know the energy draw on the thing but you can look more into it. 

The name brand cpap batteries are extremely expensive and I'd like to find a custom affordable solution.
 
sephiro499 said:
I, too, am on cpap and it complicated van living..... AND it sucks. 

Yeah it does!  

My solar/battery setup is fine for a few days of camping, but not enough to power the CPAP 8 hours a night, 7 days a week, and that has me worried about what I'm going to have to do to make that work.  I'd like to avoid installing a large and heavy battery bank and more panels if I can, but I'm not sure what my options are at this point.
 
BigT said:
Yeah it does!  

My solar/battery setup is fine for a few days of camping, but not enough to power the CPAP 8 hours a night, 7 days a week, and that has me worried about what I'm going to have to do to make that work.  I'd like to avoid installing a large and heavy battery bank and more panels if I can, but I'm not sure what my options are at this point.

You can buy a cpap battery but they range from 200-500 dollars.  You could then charge that at a mcdonalds or something.
 
I also use a cpap machine, however without the humidifier.  I use nasal pillows too.  Been using it for over 10 years now that way.  When I first started, I used the humidifier, but was too lazy to keep it clean :p  I had to clean the tubing and all at least twice a week or I started sneezing and my nose would run.  I said to h*ll with the humidifier and have not used it since.  Is my throat and mouth dry the next day?  Sure.  I just drink a glass of water when I get up and get the coffee started.  Did it take me a little while to get used to sleeping with the dry mouth and throat?  I think a few weeks was all it took.  That was a looong time ago.  I only need to clean my pillows and mask tubing every two weeks or more.  To clean the pillows/tubing (only the short piece connected to the mask part, not the long hose) I get hot water and antibacterial soap in a pan, just enough to cover the tubing and use my little finger in the pillows and swish the water in the hose.  Re-assemble everything and run water through the hose and pillows to rinse.  Hang by the pillow end after shaking excess water out to dry over a towel bar.  Ready to use that night.  I bought the 12v adapter for the machine itself and it seems to use very little power but I have 375 amps worth.  Can go a whole week running everything (TV, laptops, lights and cpap) and not use even 40% of it.

If you can run the machine off 12v, that is your best option as there is not the double conversion of 12v to 110v to 12v.

Brian

I am not advocating you do as I posed here, it is just the way I roll.
 
B and C said:
I bought the 12v adapter for the machine itself and it seems to use very little power but I have 375 amps worth.  Can go a whole week running everything (TV, laptops, lights and cpap) and not use even 40% of it.

If you can run the machine off 12v, that is your best option as there is not the double conversion of 12v to 110v to 12v.

I bought the 12V cable too.  It works great, but I only have a single, 75Ah AGM battery, mounted under the hood, to run off of.  
Eventually I plan to disconnect the solar from the under-hood battery, and reconnect it to at least 2 AGM's inside the van.  
Hopefully by then I'll have sold my tiny Transit Connect and replaced it with a Roadtrek.  :cool:
 
BigT, As you know i only have a single group27 90AH Northstar AGM battery for both house and engine starting. The other morning I had 71AH removed from the battery, it was reading 11.6v, and it still easily cranked over my 5.2 liter v8 engine.

And then maxed out my alternator for the 5 mile drive to the ocean taking upto 105 amps.

Driving later that day again and the solar were able to get it to 0.4amps at 14.4v by 4:30PM. Fully charged and happy.

As long as you charge it at the high rate, and fully charge it after such a significant depletion, do not fear dropping below the 50% rule.

The battery is your employee, not the other way around. Just don't forget to pay it and it will work itself hard for you.
 
I do not use the humidifier with mine either.  I got used to 'dry mouth'.  As I am a mouth breather by nature, I cannot use the nose tubing.  Causes major chafing, discomfort and pain.  I use a mask covering mouth and nose.  Not a problem, even though I wear a full beard.
 
SternWake said:
BigT, As you know i only have a single group27  90AH Northstar AGM battery for both house and engine starting.  The other morning I had 71AH removed from the battery, it was reading 11.6v, and it still easily cranked over my 5.2 liter v8 engine.

I honestly don't know how you can get by without a house battery.  You must be an occasional van user and not a full timer, as my solar system/electrical system for the house is the very heart of my home.

I run CPAP, 2 fans, ARB 50qt fridge, lights and charge my electronics all from the house battery.   One GP31 AGM and 205 watts of solar does all this quite well, and is charged in less than 3 hours the next day.

I don't mind living small, but I don't want to give up certain aspects of modern living, and I don't have to with a good house battery setup.
 
66788 said:
I honestly don't know how you can get by without a house battery.  You must be an occasional van user and not a full timer, as my solar system/electrical system for the house is the very heart of my home.

I run CPAP, 2 fans, ARB 50qt fridge, lights and charge my electronics all from the house battery.   One GP31 AGM and 205 watts of solar does all this quite well, and is charged in less than 3 hours the next day.

I don't mind living small, but I don't want to give up certain aspects of modern living, and I don't have to with a good house battery setup.

I get by because I can plug into the grid nearly anytime I want.  I'm fairly stationary with a private level legal parking spot and a sleep in my van every single night.  When I am travelling I use a fraction of the battery power overnight compared to what I use when I am at my spot, unless the Van is party central, which does not happen often enough.

I cycle this battery deeply 4 or 5 nights a week minimum, so I can see what it can handle, and since I can high amp recharge it and fully recharge it after each deep cycle, I do not fear overdischarge or not being able to start my engine, and if I were to deplete it to the point where it could not start my engine, a few hours of sunlight would rectify that situation, or perhaps even a few minutes of my 40 amp charger, and my thickly wired alternator can put 100 amps into this AGM battery if the rpms are there.

I used to carry 345Ah of  battery capacity for the warm and fuzzies and bragging factor.  Realizing i can get by with just 90AH, at least in summer time, with a high quality AGM charged properly, has been enlightening. 

I will be getting a Trojan T-1275 before winter sets in, and my AGM will be returned to primarily engine starting and emergency capacity duties, but I know that I can manage to get by on a single 90AH AGM battery.  I would not try the same with a 100Ah wet/flooded battery  They can't produce enough CCA when only 25% charged to easily start the engine, like this AGM can.

Having a battery monitor which shows me nearly exactly how much I have removed from my battery, and how much various charging sources have returned, and having monitored this battery monitor through out many different battery lifespans,  since 2007 gives me that confidence.

When one has little idea of how much they remove from their battery, or how much their charging sources return, then it is much wiser to carry more capacity.  Also While some seek to get the maximum timespan out of their batteries, I seek to get the maximum number of deep cycles.  So I cycle deeper than most, as I view each battery lifespan as a test of the battery itself, and there is no point in testing a battery if it is not worked hard, so i work it hard to help me better understand what a battery can do, especially when properly recharged, promptly and fully.

I do not even need to discharge this battery, I can plug in and let my Meanwell adjustable voltage  power supply hold my battery at 13.6v and power all my DC loads all night every night as long as I am not out travelling.  I cycle this battery to better learn what a lead acid battery can handle when charged properly.

I'm not recommending others follow this method, just mentioning what is possible when a quality AGM battery is properly and promptly recharged, even if it is discharged well below the recommended 50% level.

So far, so Good.  It is hard to notice any performance/capacity  loss in the 23 months and approximately 200 deep cycles it has been subjected to. 

Big T has the same brand AGM as me, but only 75Ah capacity instead of my 90.  His can suck huge amounts of charging current from the alternator being located in the engine compartment, and he has a higher solar to capacity ratio than myself. While he does not know exactly how much he is consuming from his battery, he can take ~ 50AH from it each night, as long as it is returned to 100% charged the following day, and he can likely do this for 500 deep cycles.  With 200 watts of solar, if he awakes to a battery so depleted it cannot start his engine, a few hours of sunlight will allow him to start and drive and high amp recharge the battery and the solar can finish the task, if the sunlight is available.

A house battery system is great, it is practically mandatory in this lifestyle, but one can also live life a little closer to the edge.  A high quality AGM such as a Northstar or Odyssey recharged properly can allow one to get away without a house battery. It is all in the recharging, and not going below ~11 volts and having high amp recharging available in addition to low and slow solar.   A capable grid powered charger is also mandatory if one does not drive daily, but of course having access to grid power is another matter.

66788, if your 205 watts of solar is fully charging your 31AGM battery in 3 hours of sunlight, you certainly have a huge buffer and are not really even drawing the battery below 80%.  Nothing wrong with that.  Shallower cycles = longer battery life.  I'm choosing to cycle deeper with little to no buffer, as an experiment.

But, when I do get the Flooded Trojan  T-1275 installed , my abusive AGM experiment is basically over.  I'm just glad the NS AGM battery and my electrical system has been able to allow me to easily get away with no dedicated house battery for the last 3/4 months, as my finances have not been healthy enough to get that T-1275 yet.  When my previous flooded battery lived out its cycle life, if I did not have this AGM battery, that has both very high CCA ratings and ability to be deeply cycled, I would have been in a much worse position.

  I would not trust a flooded marine battery to handle what this AGM has shrugged off.  No way could a flooded marine battery handle cycling to 20 or  30% or 40% state of charge and still start my engine, no way could it accept 100 amps from my alternator, and no way could its capacity seem to have not degraded in 4 months of cycling to 30 to 40% 4 to 5 nights a week.  I do not carry a jumper pack, or even jumper cables.

BigT might not want to live this close to the edge, I am relating to him, that his battery, can. 

It is all about the recharge, and his alternator can meet the high amp requirement, his 200 watts of solar can meet the recharge to 100% requirement if the sunlight is available.  It is all about how much he consumes from the battery, and the 50% rule can be broken more safely with a high quality, high CCA AGM.  Drive for long enough and have enough sunlight and taking it down to 20% charged night after night, and the battery should be able to deliver, where as most other batteries would give up  much quicker.

Of course the cycle life will be shortened with deep discharges, but if it comes down to $ spent for the amount of cycles, he will likely come out ahead compared to having a huge house bank properly wired with enough solar to properly feed it. 

The warm and fuzzies of having a large buffer, can cost a lot of money.

I've whittled my buffer to the near minimum, without issue.  It makes me reluctant to get the trojan t-1275 house battery and have that buffer back, but I miss dipping my hydrometer too.
 
I fully intend to reply to the last four posts in detail, but first I want to test my Amp draw in the van so I can confirm just how deeply I'll be cycling the battery.

I will say this, though.

I bought the multi / Amp meter that SternWake linked to earlier, but I'm getting wonky readings when I test the CPAP plugged into a 120V house outlet.
I have the meter set to the 2.0A DC setting, but I'm getting a reading of just .026 to .045. I had expected to see the decimal point over one place to the right, so I'm a little confused to see the reading so low. I'm assuming the transformer is not only dropping the voltage but also switching it from AC to DC.
I get no reading at all with the meter set to AC. I suppose it's also possible that the CPAP, starting out at a setting of just 7.0 cmH2O, hasn't fully "ramped up" to its max setting of 20 and is therefore giving a lower reading. Maybe I can temporarily set it to start at the highest level and connect the meter then.

When I stop procrastinating and actually plug the darn thing into my car, I'll get a better idea of exactly what I'm working with.... Unless of course, I'm using this new and unfamiliar meter incorrectly (I don't think so).

It's nice to know that someday I might be able to get away with lightly cycling my Group 24 AGM, 5 nights a week, while at work (Mon-Fri), and then charging it back up with a weekend road-trip or two. Right now I just use the van for my whopping 3 mile commute to work and for occasional weekend kayaking trips up north.
 
Top