Hey from Iowa! Looking for a cargo trailer that doesnt exist

[rebar]

Hello everyone, new around here..  I posted a few comments about enclosed trailer construction, but I figure I better introduce myself and what I'm looking to do.

I'm Mike. Divorced with adult kids blue collar type. And I recently sold my big 24' toyhauler and CTD TV because the trailer was to big, and CTD was 2wd. I need to get away from the noisy crowded camp grounds in colorado.

I need a forest service road capable TV and trailer, and then be able to venture off the road 100 feet or so to find a camping spot.  The rig needs to be able to transport my 300 lb motorcycle and 250 gallons of water and camping gear. It needs to be 7' wide or narrower to match a full size TV width.

Anyway..  It looks like no one makes a trailer that's 7' wide without fenders.  The wheels and fenders sticking out essentially makes the 7' wide, just as wide as a 8.5' trailer.  And I don't want to down size to a 5' wide trailer to keep the wheel track as narrow as my full size TV.  Sooo, it looks like I either have to modify a used trailer..  Or custom order one, which really goes against my grain.  I'm Cheap! lol

So yeah.  If anyone knows a trailer manufacture who makes a trailer no more than 7' wide with wheel wells and wheels under the trailer..  Please let me know!

Thanks!

 

[bullfrog]

Some older camping trailers are 7 1/2' to the outside of the camper box that is built on top of a frame that uses 2 central runners with out riggers to bolt to the camper body and create wheel wells. I had built a box 6'8" wide by 8' long and 6'2" tall as I wanted a 30" wide bed on each side and a 16" walk/standing area between them which could hold a bike and a rear door. I cut down a single axle trailer with wheels under the deck utility trailer and it worked well as it was so high that the trailer seldom would drag going through washes but was too tall for forest trees as the box mounted on the trailer was over 9' tall. After a few years we decided we wanted to lengthen the box to have a shower and toilet so we have lenghtened it to 11'6" and needed a larger trailer. I am using an old 24' camper frame cutting the out riggers off 5" to match the width of the box at 80". The last 12' or so of the trailer will be an open deck to carry my Samurai or toys. The outside width of the tires should be around 7'. I've gone this route because I couldn't afford or find a manufactured toy hauler light enough or small enough to meet my needs. Good luck I hope your able to get what you need. My box is 80" because I built it out of interior doors and "Poor Man's Fiberglass" as described in ttnt trailer's forum if your interested in building.

 

[Every Road Leads Home]

You want what they call a narrow track trailer. Custom trailers don't really cost anymore than trailers sitting on the lot in most cases, unless you were looking to buy used. Probably hard finding a used one but they are out there, just look for a 7' wide narrow track .

 

[Every Road Leads Home]

This company doesn't charge any extra to build a narrow track.

http://indianshoresrv.com/showrooms...500+lb.+Tandem+Axle/56cf41a627818699158be12e/

 

[tx2sturgis]

What you want is called a deckover trailer, and you want enclosed.

Enclosed snowmobile trailers are made this way...here is a listing for you:

http://factorydirecttrailers.com/Enclosed_V_Nose_Deck_Over_Snowmobile_Trailer.php

 

[rebar]

Some older camping trailers are 7 1/2' to the outside of the camper box that is built on top of a frame that uses 2 central runners with out riggers to bolt to the camper body and create wheel wells.  I had built a box 6'8" wide by 8' long and 6'2" tall as I wanted a 30" wide bed on each side and a 16" walk/standing area between them which could hold a bike and a rear door.  I cut down a single axle trailer with wheels under the deck utility trailer and it worked well as it was so high that the trailer seldom would drag going through washes but was too tall for forest trees as the box mounted on the trailer was over 9' tall.  After a few years we decided we wanted to lengthen the box to have a shower and toilet so we have lenghtened it to 11'6" and needed a larger trailer.  I am using an old 24' camper frame cutting the out riggers off 5" to match the width of the box at 80".  The last 12' or so of the trailer will be an open deck to carry my Samurai or toys.  The outside width of the tires should be around 7'.  I've gone this route because I couldn't afford or find a manufactured toy hauler light enough or small enough to meet my needs.  Good luck I hope your able to get what you need.  My box is 80" because I built it out of interior doors and "Poor Man's Fiberglass" as described in ttnt trailer's forum if your interested in building.

Thanks.  I considered a "deck over" atv/snowmobile trailer.  But like you mentioned, the height gets to tall with a box you can stand in on top. Wheels are to small ratings to low.. 
I can live with wheel wells, and will need them because I would like to run 8 lug 16" wheels to match my TV.  But I'm still concerned with overall height.  I'm dreaming/envisioning a pop-up, but don't have the skills, tools, and time.  Maybe a chain saw and ladder are in order.

Do you have pictures of your builds BullFrog?  They sound really interesting and intriguing.  

You want what they call a narrow track trailer.  Custom trailers don't really cost anymore than trailers sitting on the lot in most cases, unless you were looking to buy used.  Probably hard finding a used one but they are out there,  just look for a 7' wide narrow track .

Perfect.!  Thanks for the search term I didn't know.  I'm getting quite a few google hits with "narrow track" this and that.  Enough to be comfortable using the term from here on out.

This company doesn't charge any extra to build a narrow track.

http://indianshoresrv.com/showrooms...500+lb.+Tandem+Axle/56cf41a627818699158be12e/

Super.  I also found a few other narrow tracks..  But what I don't like is one of them states "Narrow Track Axles for 7' Trailer - Built with Wheel Wells Inside Trailer and Exterior 4" Flare"  So that would mean the overall width would be 7' 8"..  I'm afraid that's to wide because most fullsize trucks are about 6.5' wide.   

 

[tx2sturgis]

Now that last type of trailer is called a mid-deck...even more rare I would think in 7' width, unless you special order...

 

[John61CT]

A little extra width down at wheel height is not as bad as up where the branches are.

I agree deckover's no good for a standy.

I'm playing with designs for a similar idea, and IMO paying a little more for a custom sub-chassis will pay for itself in mpg and lower TV wear, compared to basing off a heavy utility trailer that big.

But a repurposed camper trailer frame the right size will also work for DIY and be a lot cheaper from a junk yard or CL bargain.

Also consider boat trailers, low can be raised, they're often narrow and some are light but very heavy duty capacity, even aluminum.

A foamie can be made to slide right on that.

Finally, consider a popup to give you low profile pulling but standing room camping.

I like this concept, Slidavan gypsy style roof could be flattened

http://www.duckworksbbs.com/plans/benjamin/slidavan/index.htm

 

[tx2sturgis]

Having addressed the original question, my advice would be to have a wider wheel track than the trailer, for stability.

Most any 5, 6, or 7 wide trailer is built this way, so that the CG is lower, and the wheel track is wider.

 

[John61CT]

My goal is:

max width including any trim 7.4'

with wheels completely tucked inside / under

So it can roll into a conex, but allows for

a full-size bed sideways and

good (what most would consider extreme) insulation.

 

[tx2sturgis]

So it can roll into a conex...

Ah...plans are afoot...

 

[rebar]

Some older camping trailers are 7 1/2' to the outside of the camper box that is built on top of a frame that uses 2 central runners with out riggers to bolt to the camper body and create wheel wells.   I am using an old 24' camper frame cutting the out riggers off 5" to match the width of the box at 80".   The outside width of the tires should be around 7'.

I did some searching regarding camper frames and axles and I believe most single axle campers had 3500# 5 lug axles.  I would have to replaced the axle with a >5000# axle considering I want a ton of water literally, and my motorcycle etc etc.. But would then need to reinforce the frame..?  I'm considering it once more, but always grimace thinking about building the entire enclosure.  Everything..  When a utility box, or enclosed trailer can be bought.  The main disadvantage for me is the height because I don't want a head knocker door opening.

My goal is:

max width including any trim 7.4'

with wheels completely tucked inside / under

So it can roll into a conex, but allows for

a full-size bed sideways and

good (what most would consider extreme) insulation.

I also want a queen size bed in mine, or capable of.

I think we both have similar width requirements, but for different reasons.

May I ask who you have hired to build your trailer?  And as far as the Slidavan which the link is broken..  Are you talking about the roof, or about the roof and pop-up design?  I like the look of a corrugated metal roof.  But unsure if you can bend the roof arch, or how well a drip edge overhang would work en route.  The Slidavan roof construction is similar to the old rounded trailer roofs Iv been talking about lately.

 

[John61CT]

I'm just in early planning, way off from finalizing design much less shopping for help yet.

But lots of people say they just look for fabricators or just welders locally.

Looks like DuckWorks is reorganizing their site and not redirecting from old URLs, bad webmaster

http://www.duckworksbbs.com/product-p/ww-slidavan.htm

 

[John61CT]

My key spec is absolute minimum weight.

If yours isn't, then maybe look at an old utility one the right size.

But if you really don't want to DIY the box, then keep shopping CT makers, maybe have to bite the bullet and pay for custom soup to nuts.

 

[John61CT]

And re the gypsy van, I just like the lift roof concept.

Regular popups not much good for arctic insulation.

Folding panels ones seem way kludgey, too involved a setup process.

I want to be able to sleep in it while on the road with no setup, like a teardrop.

But get 7'+ headroom once settling down at a site, cooking meals etc.

 

[highdesertranger]

well if you want to get it in a conex, a high cube is only 8' 9" tall x 7' 7" on the inside. highdesertranger

 

[Spaceman Spiff]

And re the gypsy van, I just like the lift roof concept.
Regular popups not much good for arctic insulation.
Folding panels ones seem way kludgey,  too involved a setup process.
I want to be able to sleep in it while on the road with no setup,  like a teardrop.
But get 7'+ headroom once settling down at a site, cooking meals etc.

I have a friend that has an NCO Alaskan on a trailer.  He uses it on ski trips (2 - 4 days); it does better than my pop-up truck camper for holding heat.  He can sleep in it with the top down.  Not sure of the headroom but he has space above his 6'1" height.

 

[John61CT]

Thanks for the Alaska pointer, yes what I'm shooting for.

Interesting idea, the modular living space shell that slides on a trailer base, also can in future look for a truck with a bed can carry it if I want a big vehicle, say to tow a Prius for a genset/bank/aircon + town vehicle.

But wow low mpg.

well if you want to get it in a conex, a high cube is only 8' 9" tall x 7' 7" on the inside. highdesertranger

Not sure why you say only, that's huge, actually no need for a high cube, shooting for standard.

7'5" both wide and high, take a bit away for clearance and possible variation.

 

[highdesertranger]

well if you want standing height in the trailer plus insulation plus vents and solar panels plus suspension plus tires. I don't think you are going to make the 7' 5" unless you have a very low slung trailer. in fact if you want any type of ground clearance for off road I think your over all height is going to be more then even the 8' 9" of a high cube. now if you are not planning on off road driving and are using very small tires you might be able to squeeze a trailer into one. highdesertranger

 

[John61CT]

well if you want standing height in the trailer plus insulation plus vents and solar panels plus suspension plus tires. I don't think you are going to make the 7' 5"

well I *don't* it want it tall while traveling anyway, maybe 6.5' mounted?

which is why I'm looking at pop top type options, standing when set up to stay in a spot, low pulling height like a teardrop

also drop floor concepts, really only need full standy room for getting dressed and cooking

And it would only rarely be containerized, probably just for overseas travel, so if some disassembly required NBD.

In fact since the living space module comes off, jack that up to the conex roof, maybe the trailer itself breaks down, wheels off and it all slides under for transport.

Or go to a hitop as you say if that turns out to be necessary.