here we go again

[Spaceman Spiff]

Started to remove the bulkhead.. super annoying to get rid of the rivets that are attached to the vehicle and one section of it. I am not having much luck. I used a bit (titanium) to drill it out.. but I was breaking bits.. went to larger size and stilll nothing.. LOL  the rivet started to just spin...lol Went and bought one of those rotary tool things thinking I could just cut the head off.. but those damn flimsy cutting wheels that come with it are a joke.. its like a cookie and break at the slightest touch..I even tried a chisel and hammer..that seemed to show the most potential but my chisel is dull and worn down.. maybe a new sharp one would be better?

Any suggestions?

The most common cause of breaking drill bits is you are wiggling the drill, causing the bit to (try to) bend.

Rivets are a bitch to drill out.  I use a diagonal cutter to hold a spinning rivet head while drilling with some success.

It is almost impossible to hold a cutting wheel steady enough to cut the head off a rivet.  Get a grinding wheel that fits your drill.

Yes, a chisel needs to be sharp.  Best to use a file to sharpen.  A grinding wheel sharpens quickly (and destroys the temper).

 

[desert_sailing]

Thanks for the tips on rivets... boy were they annoying.. glad I had only 4 to saw down. But didn't take long after I used the grinder on em and even made it to the other side without the sparks singeing my yellow flowing locks. Lol..

To vent or not to vent...

definitely NOT going to put more than one fan in for cooking and shower humidity. Putting even one in is on the chop block..not sure if the gain outweighs the risk.

Those fantastic fans look huge... im wondering how the small utility vents would be and place it near my yet to be located shore power.... sigh.

Thanks for the tip about the fiber reinforced discs and why i kept breaking bits..

 

[desert_sailing]

Unfortunately i have not made much progress other than general prep and layout and materials list.

Mostly have things sorted out but still have not determined how to proceed wirh the ceiling. Sure could use any of your thoughts.

The fiberglass ceiling does not seem to have any strips embedded nor any attached to the inside surface.

So... can I adhere a couple furring strips that will sustain for some time? I am not planning of any cabinets up top but do need some kind of ceiling.
1st option.. Ideally was thinking of a layer of polyiso and then luan overtop... either with auto carpet adhered to it or just plain.
2nd..polyiso adhered and then covered with auto carpet.
3rd..acoustic tiles either alone or over polyiso.
4th... mirrors.... haha..jk

Not even sure how to put lighting up there

I will have a cabinet over the front seats area.. was thinking i could build some ceiling support from there ?

anyhow any input would be appreciated.

I guess the acoustic tiles is my #1 actually... would be easy to fit and look good as there are a ton of odd angles and meeting points of wonky shapes..get some noise reduction and head protection...not sure about needing insulation as well or if they are fine by themselves..
https://www.amazon.com/96-Packs-12-...+foam+tiles&qid=1613371051&sr=8-10&th=1&psc=1

would interlocking yoga mats work up there?

 

[Sofisintown]

I have used metal transition strips (the thing you put between carpet and floor, or at doorways) to support the insulation on the ceiling. You can bend them to conform to the roof shape (as a  Π ), secured at the leftover roof strip after the center was cut for the high top.
I hope that is clear enough. Automotive carpet will cover it all. They come up to 12 ft long - Home Depot.

 

[desert_sailing]

Removed the remaining bulkhead today. It really opened up the place and I won't be hitting my head as much. The rivets holding it were ridiculous....heavyyyyyy duty.

I put 1/2" polyiso (13$ ea)on the floor and then 1/2" ply (42$ea) over that. Not substantial... but will be sufficient...??..lol

walls insulated and paneled this weekend if i can find luan sheets.. hd said they out... hard to believe. Picked up 4- 4x8(46$ea) sanded birch for the cabinets. I couldnt really justify or afford 85 bux per for baltic. my buddy has some xtra baltic and wants to face the cabinets with it..lol.

Im trying to select one of those camplux water heaters like this...
https://www.amazon.com/Camplux-Portable-Tankless-OverHeating-Protection/dp/B083GQPRW6

Anybody using this or a similar model?... Im hoping to find one a bit more trim... I would really appreciate any suggestions regarding them.

 

[abnorm]

"...........Im trying to select one of those camplux water heaters like this..."

The hot flue gases exit out of the top of those water heaters.......heed their mounting instructions

ADD:

We had trouble maintaining a reliable water pressure using a 12 v pump to satisfy the heater's auto-ignition........wasting plenty of (cold) water

 

[bigsallysmom]

I would consider upper side or floor to ceiling cabinets secured to the walls and incorporate ceiling framing support in them.

 

[desert_sailing]

That's a great suggestion Mom.
I have mentioned ot to my build "consultant" b4 and he didn't seem to keen for whatever reason... maybe because he knows my skill level and my budget..lol
I'll mention it again to him and see what he thinks.

I've been trying to sort my sink water system. I decided to nix the 12 v pump set up and also dropped the idea of that propane water heater. I have a hot water shower thing already from my first rig that I should use instead of reinventing the wheel.
https://www.mrheater.com/boss-xb13-battery-operated-shower-system.html

Instead of the 12v pump it was suggested I try the whale foot pump.
Saw some great builds with it and I'm essentially sold on it... butttt it was suggested to me that a gravity system might be better... And I'm definitely interested

I was planning on shelving above the backdoors where the topper attached to the van roof..seems that might be a good place to set up a couple 6 gal water jugs?.. balanced ofc.

I'm really questioning how much of a water system do I really need??!!
I don't want jugs on the counter top taking up a lot of space.. maybe just build a raised shelf to securely hold my berkey and use that?
Suggestions or tips on how you do your plumbing is appreciated.

I do know that when I try to go more rv like the less I enjoy the build... Too much time.. too technical.. and too much expense.

As someone says in their signature here...rolling steel TENT ( my emphasis) I'm a big fan of that.


.

 

[desert_sailing]

Walls finished. Pictures soon.

Decided a hallway out the back doors was a huge waste of space for whatever convenience I thought I was getting.
I decided to put my "kitchen" across the back end. Sink, stove/ oven. I will get easy access to water jugs and propane from the back doors and a bit more of a garage!!.. woohoo

I'll be setting the stove up to be removed for outdoor cooking as needed but thought it would be pretty spiffy if I could somehow lower the oven/ stove from it's inside use height down to the floor so I could turn it around and use outside from the back end.

Some kind of crank that raises and lowers?.... Was thinking maybe gas shock? Something relatively easy and inexpensive??

I would love the convenience to tailgate. .. I may not always have a suitable surface to place the oven.
Any ideas?

The new layout gives so much more space. I'm really surprised.
I've been debating a hammock instead of a bed and now have more space to accommodate one comfortably.

 

[bullfrog]

Slide out table with folding height adjustable legs that go back to the bumper or a drawer with a removable plywood top.

 

[Kent_the_Nomad]

I would recommend a pull out table for you back door kitchen. HD or Lowes have heavy duty slides for shelves.

 

[desert_sailing]

Thanks for the suggestions on getting a back end table.

I'd love to have a slide out drawer with a removable lid.... looks like I'm gonna end up with some sort of drop down table...

Slow progress.. weather has not been cooperating. But not much more to go.

I discovered finishing washers..... I'm putting them everywhere!

 

[desert_sailing]

Did the rubber cementing of the floor yesterday.
Wood floor drinking up the adhesive and so I slather it on. ... didn't wait long enough for the gas to vent. My logic in thinking wet made up for the shortage was flawed.
There were soon many bubbles!

Fortunately I was able to pull it up, scrape off clumps of adhesive  and slivers.

Got it down along with another well vented layer of adhesive  It looks much better. I'll see for how long.
This flooring is much more pliable than I expected. I noticed that there are also slight dimples all on the underside. Every where there is a diamond.

I think it would have been better to have used the good double sided installation tape and just did the edges.??
I could have avoided this issue and had a better finish.. maybe?

Anyhow I've been trying to push small bubbles out still.. because there is no rigidity, creases happen easily and are hard to eliminate.

I've got my eyes open for an area rug for sure... 

Can I take a needle and "pop" the bubbles and be ok?
Seems a tiny hole here and there would be the easy fix.

 

[PlethoraOfGuns]

Oh no, bubbles! I'd say anyone would have trouble doing that job without getting them bubbles. Maybe two or three people can do it nice and slow and avoid it? How thick is the rubber?

 

[desert_sailing]

I believe it's .1 inch thick..
And it's pliable like a thick buckskin blanket..

Hopeful it is better tomorrow morning. Just checked on it and there is no real fix at this point.. at least not without a bit of cash and much more effort than I want to put in.

I also should have started from the middle, working each half instead of at an end with the excess draped over me.

Will one tiny pinhole in the larger bubbles be better than leaving them?

It's kind of rubbery I imagine a tiny hole would close back up fairly well.

I definitely could have used at least one other person to help out.

 

[PlethoraOfGuns]

Yea, doesn't sound like a one person job. But I don't see an issue with putting a small pinhole in it and getting the air out. This is your floor, it's rubber, I'm sure over time it's going to be scratch and dented, so who cares if there is a few pinholes you can barely see.

 

[desert_sailing]

Thanks for the assurance!

 

[Cammalu]

I don’t think a pin hole will hurt at all. But. If it gets wet could moisture get trapped under there? Maybe a dab of something over the pinhole afterwards?

I think it looks great

 

[desert_sailing]

So the "webasto"..lol.(I wish) arrived today a day early..woohoo.

Haven't checked actual dimensions to ensure it is 2kw... Figured I'm keeping it even if it was 5kw...so why worry .
The fuel canister is metal which I assume would be more durable than the plastic ones?

As you can see in the picture the canister has fuel "in" protrusion on one side and the fuel "out" protrusion on the other. Kinda lame as I can't have flush mounting. Also both fuel in and out are about 2 inches from the top or bottom.... Umm.. so I can never fill the tank completely or drain it completely....... Unless I mount it flat... and inside??

I was also thinking about mounting a jerry can on the back drivers door. My preference would be to keep the diesel outside..

I hear some foreign matter rolling around inside the tank.. metal shavings I'm assuming. I'll shake as out as possible... Is it super critical to get every speck out? Should I rinse with water before first use?

Thanks for any tips and heads ups.

 

[crofter]

Looking good! Thanks for all the detail.
-crofter