Help with House Electrical Design and Components

[SternWake]

MS,

3 birds, one stone:

https://www.bluesea.com/products/2151/Dual_MRBF_Terminal_Fuse_Block_-_30_to_300A

https://www.amazon.com/Blue-Sea-Sys...482893902&sr=8-6&keywords=terminal+fuse+block

Do you have the height requirement over batteries? You could have 3 bolts to mount ring terminals, 2 of them fused with those square fuses from 30 to 300 amps.  Can stack on those at least 2 high.

Square fuses sold separately.

For fridge, smaller ring terminal on top of original battery post Under Nut.

https://www.amazon.com/Blue-Sea-Sys...482893379&sr=8-2&keywords=atc+fuse+waterproof


Can also get a buss stud for stacking ring terminals.

https://www.bluesea.com/products/category/28/PowerPost_Connectors




Some people make their own Buss bars from flattened copper pipe or ground rod.  Try to find silicon Bronze hardware. and some thick rubber to isolate it from cabinet.

Your charge controller wiring looks funny to me with the PV - attaching to chassis ground but am not familiar with PWM controllers.

I would stack  the Solar controller ground  ring terminal, to the same stud on the bussbar, as the the ring terminal  of the FAT cable which comes from shunt, and the voltage sense on top of that.  Put Fuse block Loads further away, circuit wise, on the Bussbar.

I'm liking how you drew up your wiring diagrams

 

[MikeRuth]

With regard to bus bars and this preface, IF YOU KNOW WHAT YOUR DOING you can use bus bars that were originally designed for grounds on home electric panels. They are dirt cheap.

I use two like this http://www.homedepot.com/p/Siemens-Ground-Bar-Kit-15-Terminal-Position-ECLX072M/202315499

Again, you gotta know what your doing, naturally the bar used for the positive side of things must be insulated from the chassis and anything that can touch it.

My installation allows me to power my inverter which is right next to the bus bar and the feed to the bar is about 2 feet away using 2GA wire.