That works MS, I could nitpick a few things though.
In Following the instructions on the Fridge, I would run a separate inline fuse right to the battery(+) terminal and not use the common fuse block. I would also run the fridge (-) to the load side of the shunt and not to the (-)Buss bar.
The Deltec shunt is brass, and is susceptible to battery fume corrosion. I would not put it right on the (-) battery terminal, as the shunt is a precision resistor, and corrosion when it sets in will reduce that precision in time.
The Shunt also has two smaller screw terminals for the battery monitor. This is supposed to be twisted pair wire to negate RFI, and these wires are not shown in that diagram. They run to the battery monitor, and it is better if they are not really in close contact with other wires/cables, and cross other AC or DC wires at 90 degrees, as induction could throw off the accuracy. This is very hard to achieve in a clean manner so Keep it in mind, and if the amperages look off, or bounce around when you think they should be steady, perhaps consider shielding these twisted pair wire.
I've not had issues with RFI, until the wires loosened up in the back of my monitor and all of a sudden it started reading hundreds of amps. I wrapped my twisted pair with that aluminum tape over the 5 foot run from monitor display to shunt and tried the 90 degree thing and no parallel runs, where possible.
Twisted pair wire need not be thick wire as it carries no significant current. One could use cat 5 ethernet cable. Use two of the wires for each side of the shunt.
The twisted pair wire which attaches to the shunt's two sides should be a ring terminal, rather than just stranded wire wrapped around the screw. crimped and soldered would be better than just crimped.
When assembling all of these wires, if the connections are new and clean, consider wiping them/ spraying applying this on and over the mating surfaces. Use gloves and do not breath the aerosol if the spray is used:
http://store.caig.com/s.nl/sc.2/category.192/.f
These Kits are wonderful to have:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004GE15JG/ref=twister_B00WIXZPH0?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
Magic electrical juice. try it on your phones USB connections. They will seat with a click, and perhaps charge the battery faster, and reduce wear on the contacts.
The Fuse on the battery to solenoid to alternator should technically be within 7 inches of the battery(+) and inbetween solenoid and battery, Not in between Solenoid and alternator. The OEM wiring from alternator to engine battery will be already fused by the vehicle manufacturer.
It would also be better to have the Inverter (-) ring terminal right on the load/source side of the Shunt rather than to the buss bar. The Inverter can present the biggest load so it is best if it is right on the Shunt. rather than having the circuit path longer and having to flow through the length of the Bussbar as wel.l
The 200+ watt Inverter fuse should also not be run through the fuse block for the same reason, but have its own cable with ring terminal right on the battery (+), fused or a Circuit breaker on this cable, the rating to protect the wire size, but the inverter instructions might list a fuse size to use and that overrides what the wire size should be fused at.
