Heating my van

[Happy Camper]

Never tried one, but the power draw is so small, I don't know how much they'd help. A human body at rest generates about 100W of heat, so it doesn't seem like heat sources that are far less than that would contribute much.... unless you are targeting specific parts like hands and feet?

They work very well. I have tried heated jackets, gloves, and I have heated socks that I haven't tried. But the tech is simple and you can have it on low and it'll be enough in most cases.

I also have a battery powered heated knee brace that works excellent.

I have had a lot of access to these items because I used to sell pallets of liquidation, overstock, and return items to people that sell the items individually. I would keep a pallet here and there to sell items myself. So I had unique access to a variety of these heated items.

Some are better than others. But overall the tech is simple and effective. Provided you have the means to recharge the batteries.

 

[rruff]

Some are better than others. But overall the tech is simple and effective. Provided you have the means to recharge the batteries.

The most uncomfortable times for me are when I'm playing on the computer before bed. I figured if I could just wire a vest to my house battery, that would be the best way to go.

 

[maki2]

The most uncomfortable times for me are when I'm playing on the computer before bed. I figured if I could just wire a vest to my house battery, that would be the best way to go.

Put on a down jacket, a hat and some gloves. The trick is to hang onto the heat your own body produces and stop worrying about gadgets.

 

[rruff]

The trick is to hang onto the heat your own body produces and stop worrying about gadgets.

Well ya, that was my suggestion on the last page! I haven't figured out how to type with heavy gloves on, though...

 

[Happy Camper]

The are also rechargable hand warmers that work very well. Maybe it would make sense to have one of those handy when you're typing.

I like gadgets. And that's what they are. They are just something to use when it makes sense. Jacket, gloves, and socks don't have to be turned on to heat you up. They can also just be used normally while having more options. Maybe you are cold and use the jacket to warm up, then turn it off and let the jacket be a jacket. Gloves, Socks, etc same thing.

There's more than one way to do the same thing. We all make calls. But who is using a rotary dial? Sure you want to be self reliant. But my body takes longer to hear to than it used to. Why just jump start the process a little when needed.

This isn't reinventing the wheel. But it is adding a motor to it, so to speak.

 

[maki2]

Well ya, that was my suggestion on the last page! I haven't figured out how to type with heavy gloves on, though...

Who said the gloves have to be heavy? Are you actually in cold Artic weather outdoors in the snow and wind while using your laptop? Get a nice pair of “driving” gloves. Wind proof modern microfibers or classic wool will work. Many times those new versions also have fingertips made to work on touch screens.

Before I went full time as a nomad I spent several years living in an unheated space and I used gloves that left just my fingertips open so could still do detail task and use keyboards and touch screens as well. At that time I was doing design work in 3D CAD while wearing gloves. I was also wearing a down jacket and sitting up in bed under a pile of down blankets. Do not tell me it can’t be done or that I do not know what I am talking about, I lived it and did it and still do that wear gloves and use keyboards and small tools stuff. I am speaking from experience, not just tossing out random thoughts. I still work that way on some of the cold nights in winter in the Arizona desert. Some freezing nights in the upper 20s I even wear gloves to sleep in as I choose not to run my heater all night and I tend to sleep with my hands out of the covers and at 73 years old I have enough wear and tear arthritis that cold makes them a bit stiff after a cold night.

 

[rruff]

Before I went full time as a nomad I spent several years living in an unheated space and I used gloves that left just my fingertips open so could still do detail task and use keyboards and touch screens as well.

That's what I did... gloves that I'd cut the end of the fingers off of. And I did it fulltime in an unheated space for years. I couldn't lay in bed though because I was in a Toyota pickup with a roommate. There was a winter outside Tucson where we had highs in the 40s and lows in the teens for a few days. I favored the lower CO river valley after that.

That was awhile ago. I have some bad arthritis in my thumbs now, but my hands are usually pretty good. The toes are not so good... think I may have some effects from frostbite due to ignoring unpleasant physical sensations in the past. Blue and cracked and bleeding toes are too annoying to ignore. Keeping the feet warm isn't that hard, though.

 

[Happy Camper]

I had some thinsulate lined gloves that were fairly thin and could easily be used on a keyboard. They might be an option if you don't want to go the heated route. The heated gloves would be too bulky for typing for sure.

 

[jasper]

This is valuable. Thank you! I was less than enthusiastic about diesel, not for economical reasons, but odor. However, I think I can rig up something that will work. Maybe a vent tube that runs to the ouside air. The tube doesn't have to be very large. What brand is your 2k heater? The 5k heater? I really appreciate this help.

The diesel stink is hard to contain. When not using, the screw in the hole works for no smell.

When using with the screw removed, no smell until the fuel tank becomes pressurized due to being warmed up from interior heat faster than the drain from consumption. I have left the screw in place for about an hour with no problems. Your idea of an outside vent would work, even from the top down. Similar to the fuel line in post #36. A hose vent to the outside would possibly need to be shutoff as well when parked and not using to prevent off gassing you might be able to smell..

The vent line could be on the tank, rather than the cap, as it needs to be unscrewed. You may have spurred me on to a project.

I think my seven year old 2kw was from Amazon seller "Happybuy". It's a crapshoot, with slight differences in controllers. 2kw units are a little harder to find. Anything longer than about 13 inches are NOT 2kw heaters.

I'm not a huge fanboy or overly enthusiastic about diesel heaters, but they suit my purpose for now. I would not trust one as a sole source of heat in really cold weather.

 

[maki2]

The fuel tank cap on my diesel heater from Inland has a fitting built into it specifically for a vent line. Because it was designed for the tank to be installed inside, not outside. The vent line attaches to a “thru hull” fuel tank vent.

Look around on the market place, you can find tanks with caps that have a vent line fitting.

 

[Happy Camper]

I think my seven year old 2kw was from Amazon seller "Happybuy". It's a crapshoot, with slight differences in controllers. 2kw units are a little harder to find. Anything longer than about 13 inches are NOT 2kw heaters.

Just in case anyone wanted to know. Happybuy is a Vevor brand. It's exactly the same product usually with a different color paint. Just wanted to save someone time if looking at the same product from these brands.

Vevor owns:
Mophorn
Happybuy
Bestequip
And a few others.

Same company, product, service, etc.

 

[StarryNights]

I probably should have posted this sooner, but if any of you would like an in-depth evaluation of different Chinese diesel heater brands, sizes, controllers, etc. you might want to check out this YouTube link done by VanLifeUKsurvivorsguide site:

As for Vevor, I think they are simply a reseller of many different brands since the same brands can be found on Amazon or eBay. They do, however often have a better price. I'm currently in Quartzsite, AZ and if I order from Amazon I get charged 9.1% sales tax since they have a presence in the state, but no sales tax is charged and fast free shipping if order from Vevor (or at least that was true some months ago).

 

[LargeMarge]

... carbon monoxide monitor ...Wave 3 malfunctioned...

.
(Off-Topic from your friendly neighborhood know-it-all fuss-budget)
.
a1) We use a single Wave 3 catalytic heater on 'LOW'.
What mal-functioned?
.
a2) We set our Wave 3 on 'LOW' at approximately 1,700Btu.
I cannot imagine heating our rig with 8,000Btu or hotter.
That sounds like a -- Yikes! -- sauna.
.
b) In our ExpeditionVehicle, we have:
* two CO detectors from different manufacturers
* two smoke detectors from different manufacturers
* two propane detectors from different manufacturers.
.
c) To reduce condensation, we always open two windows on opposite walls.
.
d) To reduce our propane use, we engineered our rig with excessively obsessive amounts of insulation.
And yet, our physical insulation is merely an adjunct to our captured 'dead air' in our gaps between our layers.
.
e) Some car-camping enthusiasts drape a tarp over the entire vehicle to trap the boundary layer of transition air next to the glass and metal, and reduce the wind constantly stripping it away.

 

[RonDean]

Just in case anyone wanted to know. Happybuy is a Vevor brand. It's exactly the same product usually with a different color paint. Just wanted to save someone time if looking at the same product from these brands.

Vevor owns:
Mophorn
Happybuy
Bestequip
And a few others.

Same company, product, service, etc.

I just bought a Vevor gas (natural or propane) cooktop and when it arrived I discovered a 120v AC cord and plug hanging off it. I was about to return it when I read the manual and found this was a propane cooktop that also required the 120v line to be plugged in to provide power for a safety cutoff and an ignitor. It further discouraged using it without said 120v. So, I decided to return it anyway. That's when I discovered that even though they had shipped it to me by UPS it was now too unsafe for me to ship it back.

After a bit of bitching, Amazon made it right. But, read the fine print before you order any Vevor products. And I think I may test if it is actually unsafe to use OR if the 120v might run off my small power station.

 

[bullfrog !]

^^^So you think they would spend money to voluntarily put in safety warnings without having incidents they could be sued for? Be sure to turn on the camera and say “Hold my beer!” Before starting the experiment.

 

[Carla618]

The are also rechargable hand warmers that work very well. Maybe it would make sense to have one of those handy when you're typing.

I like gadgets. And that's what they are. They are just something to use when it makes sense. Jacket, gloves, and socks don't have to be turned on to heat you up. They can also just be used normally while having more options. Maybe you are cold and use the jacket to warm up, then turn it off and let the jacket be a jacket. Gloves, Socks, etc same thing.

There's more than one way to do the same thing. We all make calls. But who is using a rotary dial? Sure you want to be self reliant. But my body takes longer to hear to than it used to. Why just jump start the process a little when needed.

This isn't reinventing the wheel. But it is adding a motor to it, so to speak.

Tomorrow I'll ask my daughter what she uses delivering mail in northern Illinois (another daughter has more experience delivering in southern Illinois).

When I delivered mail (25 years ago) it was in three feet of snow and once on a day that broke records: negative 25 plus the wind chill. We only had those hand warmer packets. I think some mail carriers do use gadgets now. I'll ask.

 

[RonDean]

^^^So you think they would spend money to voluntarily put in safety warnings without having incidents they could be sued for? Be sure to turn on the camera and say “Hold my beer!” Before starting the experiment.

I'm still chuckling about the "hold my beer."

However, I mainly posted thinking if anyone else had any experience with one of these they might answer the question. Also, what makes this cooktop need these "features" when none I've ever had before did. I'm not entirely adverse to using a lighter to ignite and turning off a valve when I am not cooking. I'm just old enough to remember when we actually lit campfires with matches and poured water and dirt on them afterward.

 

[islanderxx]

I have a '94 Ford Econoline Clubwagon, and have isolated the driving area from the rear camper portion. It's pretty well insulated, but at 80 years old, I'd like to have heat.

Doesn't anyone make a smaller (I don't think I need more than 9 or 10,000 BTU) propane heater that is electrically controlled (thermostat and auto-start) that's wall-mounted? I would prefer something that vents to the outside, but I'd settle for a catalytic device.

Thanks everyone for your help.

Geneeus

Geneeus, you won't need more than 10000 BTU. The guideline for BTU capacity in the southern region is 35 BTU per sq/ft; in the northern region, it is 60 BTE sq/ft. I'm assuming this guideline is for homes with a ceiling of 8 feet. Your van is about 6 ft x 14ft and 5 ft high in cargo space. Van height is 5 ft instead of 8ft will require less BTU than the guidelines established. I will compare the thermal transmittance of your van with uninsulated vs. R5 insulation. The outside temperature is 30°F, and you want to maintain the inside of your van at 60°F (delta is 30°F). Without insulation, heat loss will be about 10,000 BTU per hour (3000 watts/hr); with R5 insulation, heat loss in BTU will be about 2000 BTU ( 600 watts/hr.). The examples are rough estimates of the scenario of heat loss, size of space, and amount of insulation, which should give you some idea of the heater size that you will need. A fan only to circulate air will be about 5 to 10 watts/hr. As you can see, the guideline could be misleading for the 2 comparisons on insulation value. https://www.ferrellgas.com/tank-tal...es along the southern,60 BTUs per square foot.

https://www.ferrellgas.com/tank-tal... along the southern,60 BTUs per square foot.I have a '94 Ford Econoline Clubwagon, and have isolated the driving area from the rear camper portion. It's pretty well insulated, but at 80 years old, I'd like to have heat.

Doesn't anyone make a smaller (I don't think I need more than 9 or 10,000 BTU) propane heater that is electrically controlled (thermostat and auto-start) that's wall-mounted? I would prefer something that vents to the outside, but I'd settle for a catalytic device.

Thanks everyone for your help.

Geneeus

 

[independent]

I probably should have posted this sooner, but if any of you would like an in-depth evaluation of different Chinese diesel heater brands, sizes, controllers, etc. you might want to check out this YouTube link done by VanLifeUKsurvivorsguide site:

As for Vevor, I think they are simply a reseller of many different brands since the same brands can be found on Amazon or eBay. They do, however often have a better price. I'm currently in Quartzsite, AZ and if I order from Amazon I get charged 9.1% sales tax since they have a presence in the state, but no sales tax is charged and fast free shipping if order from Vevor (or at least that was true some months ago).

What a great youtube channel! Pretty funny guy. But it just shows how things change. When I last had an RV the options were an expenny german diesel job or cheaper but still alotta money LPG heater. These new diesel heaters look great.

I mean, in the past small space I even resorted to burning a standard candle safely in a wee willy winky holder. It would take the damp out of the air and slightly raise the temp in my tiny van. I didn't say anything about it before but seeing as others have mentioned this on this thread I am. I remember reading how a candle puts out 75w of heat, different to what others have said but in any case it made a difference. Obviously, there is a fire risk to that but now that you can get proper diesel heaters cheap (if you live in the States, not so much here) why would anyone use anything else.

Seeing the electricity requirements you do however, need a proper off grid battery as the current requirements for running them are not insignificant from what I can see.

 

[LargeMarge]

...using a lighter to ignite and turning off a valve [just before we finish] cooking... old enough to remember...lit campfires with matches...

.
Good point...
... and something I probably should clarify.
.
The following clumsy/awkward system of constantly fiddling with propane bottles and their appliances was based on my hobby of walking wrecking-yards aka 'dismantlers'.
Based on my observations, after a vehicle fire starts, it is nearly impossible to extinguish.
.
Pretty much everything in a vehicle burns, enthusiastically.
.
a)
In our rig, we have:
* a dedicated hose from a dedicated five-gallon propane bottle to the Coleman propane two-burner camp-stove, plus
* another dedicated hose and dedicated five-gallon propane bottle for the Wave 3 catalytic heater.
.
Prior to each use, we 'OPEN' the bottle valve.
Nearing completion of use, we 'CLOSE' that bottle valve.
.
This gives us the opportunity to verify the connections on the twenty-pound bottle and at the appliance.
.
b)
On factory RecreateVehicles with remote propane bottles on the hitch or remote frame-mounted under the rig, is the propane system reliant on the stove knobs closing, the furnace knobs closing, various thermocouples working perfectly every time, and the integrity of the plumbing from source to appliance(s)?
.
Based on my experience with factory RecreateVehicles -- new, as well as bounced over a few years of bad road -- I think that reliance is treading on thin ground.
.
c)
As you might imagine after two decades full-time live-aboard, using one of our Wave 3 catalytic heaters part of the year -- and living with dogs -- somebody inevitably danced on its piezo ignition push-button...
... rendering it back to its component pieces.
Rest In Peace, dear friend.
.
Accordingly, we light the Wave 3 using a match.
"But but but LM!, that match smoke will RUIN! the heater pad, and turn your heater to JUNK [emphasis added]!"
We thought so, too.
Real-World, that theory FAILED FLAT ON ITS KABOODLE [emphasis in original]!
.
And the Coleman propane two-burner camp-stove?
We light it using a clicker-igniter we acquired at a yard-sale decades ago.
.
d)
Nearing the completion of cooking or heating, we turn the bottle valve 'OFF', and allow the appliance to use the propane in the hose until the flame sputters out.
Apparently, the odorant in propane -- the sulphur stink -- eventually breaks-down the lining in the hose.
.
Will shutting 'OFF' the bottle valve and reducing the stagnant gas inside the hose, will that add years to the hose life?
Perhaps.
.
e)
I'm old enough to remember building a bonfire stack, dousing it with gasoline, then igniting it by tossing fire-crackers.
.
Oh, wait.
We still do that.