Heating my van

[Geneeus]

I have a '94 Ford Econoline Clubwagon, and have isolated the driving area from the rear camper portion. It's pretty well insulated, but at 80 years old, I'd like to have heat.

Doesn't anyone make a smaller (I don't think I need more than 9 or 10,000 BTU) propane heater that is electrically controlled (thermostat and auto-start) that's wall-mounted? I would prefer something that vents to the outside, but I'd settle for a catalytic device.

Thanks everyone for your help.

Geneeus

 

[bullfrog !]

Without unlimited electricity or unlimited funds it is difficult. Propane is usually the preferred fuel. Dickinson and other marine suppliers make some great products that will meet your needs. Suburban used to make a truck camper heater that did not have an electric blower fan which didn’t require auxiliary electric power to run for a few days but I haven’t seen one in years. Cheapest way seems to be a solar system or power station powering a vented diesel heater. Noise becomes a problem for some with powered systems. It is hard to beat a small cheap 110 volt AC ceramic heater if you use full hookup sites or can arrange a plug in where you stop. Generators work but take up space and no one wants to try to run one continuously. Compromise is usually necessary. My Suburban has a rear heater so when driving heating the rear is not much of a problem, but when stopped a good sleeping bag is usually the best answer! Lol!!!

 

[Happy Camper]

Diesel heater?

 

[maki2]

Yes there is such a heater. To find things you just need the right keywords. Use these.

10,000 BTU Blue Flame Wall thermostat

Also try using 7,000 BTU as a small heater would work better for your space since your “room” has a very low ceiling height. It will not take much to heat it even though it will not hold the heat in it for very long.

Before you make a purchase read the manual paying close attention to required clearance space from combustible surfaces. Remember it is going to be a ventless heater and small spaces do not have a lot of air volume. Of course vehicles are rarely air tight, especially older ones with old door gaskets. So a vehicle that is a bit drafty is a bonus in this situation instead of a disadvantsge.

 

[bullfrog !]

There are plenty of possibilities but a good carbon monoxide monitor is required for all of them. My Wave 3 malfunctioned and even while on low with several times more openings ventilating the space than required my carbon monoxide monitor went off alerting me to turn on my fan and circulate more fresh air. It took several minutes to get it to reset but convinced me if I a going to need heat it will be with a vented heater, the condensation and safety factors are just too much for me to ignore.

 

[StarryNights]

I'm another 80-year-old that likes to keep warm too! In 2019 I installed a Chinese diesel heater and it has run flawlessly since. I use it winters in AZ, so it is not in continuous use. Install is not hard and may be the least expensive system to fuel. They draw about 120W for 2 minutes during startup, then about 20W or less while running. One difference in my install - had a HVAC friend use his meters to adjust the HZ and fan speed settings to get the most efficient combustion. At just over $100, I carry a spare, but have never needed it.

 

[RonDean]

I'll hit 80 next year and find myself feeling the cold more lately. So I am looking at heating options. I hate the smell of diesel and am concerned about lugging the fuel around inside my van. Maybe that's an unfounded concern, but I am still looking at other options. Propane creates moisture and the Dickinsen's are very expensive. What to do?

 

[Camper]

I bought a Dickinson outdoor-vented propane heater for my trailer... I like being real warm. It sips propane and a tiny bit of 12-volt power to run the fan.

 

[RonDean]

I am looking at an "Ashley 11K BTU direct vent heater." My research says a direct vent is the same as an outside vent and I figure it should be safer and produce less inside moisture. Also about 1/3 the cost of a Dickinson propane. Does anyone have any experience with these? Is my thinking correct?

 

[bullfrog !]

Yes you are correct. Only issue I see is you have to put a hole in the van and the pipe that goes in that hole is a minimum length of 4 1/2”. You may have to stand it off the wall with some spacers possibly. Probably not a good idea to run it while moving. I haven’t owned one but there are lots of reviews and YouTube videos! It’s real similar to the truck camper heaters I mentioned earlier.

 

[maki2]

Sometimes you can find used Dickensen propane heaters in marine salvage stores in the coastal areas and on Craigs list in coastal towns. Speaking from firsthand knowledge when living and being a boat owner in towns and cities along the coastal areas in Washington state.

 

[CosmickGold]

I bought a direct vent furnace meant for a motorhome. Instructions said to mount the vent on a side that faced outward at 90 degrees, not turned any toward the front or the back. this helps keep out wind and debris.

At first, I set it's thermostat to 70 degrees. But that went through a new 5-gallon propane tank in only three days! So then I set it to 38 degrees just so no water pipe or parts would freeze and burst. That has lasted three winters on just one 5-gallon tank of propane.

My secret to staying cozy warm at night in 38 degrees is this little 12-volt electric car blanket set on low. It uses very little power from the battery to do its job. I wrap it around my middle inside a lightweight jacket, and sleep like a baby.

 

[quilting22]

I have a '94 Ford Econoline Clubwagon, and have isolated the driving area from the rear camper portion. It's pretty well insulated, but at 80 years old, I'd like to have heat.

Doesn't anyone make a smaller (I don't think I need more than 9 or 10,000 BTU) propane heater that is electrically controlled (thermostat and auto-start) that's wall-mounted? I would prefer something that vents to the outside, but I'd settle for a catalytic device.

Thanks everyone for your help.

Not to scare anyone just to encourage plenty of research. I'm currently parked in Quartzite at La Posa North LTVA. Within the last 10 days at the LTVA directly across from us. A couple parked they're nice RV and as they were a little early for the office to open to register, they went into town. Pretty soon after they left, their rig went up in flames. The quickest fire l have ever seen. Fire truck here within a few minutes but not able to save anything, only contain it. As l understand the Sheriff's dept suspect propane. I understand nothing was left running. No people or pets hurt. I'm sorry if l've already posted this. Just update abt propane.


[mod edit: edited formatting to separate quoted text from quilting22's response-tx2]

 

[tx2sturgis]

I have a '94 Ford Econoline Clubwagon, and have isolated the driving area from the rear camper portion. It's pretty well insulated, but at 80 years old, I'd like to have heat.

Doesn't anyone make a smaller (I don't think I need more than 9 or 10,000 BTU) propane heater that is electrically controlled (thermostat and auto-start) that's wall-mounted? I would prefer something that vents to the outside, but I'd settle for a catalytic device.

Thanks everyone for your help.

Geneeus

Unless you are camping in really cold locations, a 3000 BTU catalytic propane fueled heater will quite likely do the job. No, it wont roast the inside of your van when it's 10 degrees outside, but it will take the chill off and keep the inside around 50 or 60 degrees...which is about right if you have a decent sleeping bag.

Many people have used propane fueled 9000-12000 BTU heaters in a van and have found the heat output to be excessive in such a small space.

Several of our members find that the inexpensive diesel-fired furnaces (bunk heaters) do an acceptable job.

Tractor Supply currently has a sale ($263.99) on the Journey 3 catalytic propane fueled heater. I have a Journey 6 in my cargo/com trailer and it is really a sturdy, well-built heater.



https://www.tractorsupply.com/tsc/p...erm=4585375807245420&utm_content=All Products
(all normal precautions apply when using propane heaters: proper ventilation, LP and CO detector, maintain safety clearance to interior surfaces and materials)

 

[CosmickGold]

I have a '94 Ford Econoline Clubwagon, and have isolated the driving area from the rear camper portion. It's pretty well insulated, but at 80 years old, I'd like to have heat.

Doesn't anyone make a smaller (I don't think I need more than 9 or 10,000 BTU) propane heater that is electrically controlled (thermostat and auto-start) that's wall-mounted? I would prefer something that vents to the outside, but I'd settle for a catalytic device.

Thanks everyone for your help.

Geneeus

Not to scare anyone just to encourage plenty of research. I'm currently parked in Quartzite at La Posa North LTVA. Within the last 10 days at the LTVA directly across from us. A couple parked they're nice RV and as they were a little early for the office to open to register, they went into town. Pretty soon after they left, their rig went up in flames. The quickest fire l have ever seen. Fire truck here within a few minutes but not able to save anything, only contain it. As l understand the Sheriff's dept suspect propane. I understand nothing was left running. No people or pets hurt. I'm sorry if l've already posted this. Just update abt propane.


[mod edit: edited formatting to separate quoted text from quilting22's response-tx2]

I'm against these little portable heaters for several reasons. (1) As in the above example, you need to stay awake and with them all the time, for they radiate heat that can set surfaces they are facing on fire! (2) Doing their combustion into the air inside your rig, they can easily produce carbon monoxide if the air lacks enough oxygen to keep them happy. (3) Their propane combines hydrogen with oxygen to make water which is released into the air, able to make things wet and support the growth of mold.

I can suggest the

Dickinson Propane Heater Newport P9000 Package​

but that's over a thousand dollars.

 

[RonDean]

The longer I look the more convinced I am that there is no affordable complete solution. Since I already use propane for my cooking, I will probably have to go with an inexpensive vent-free propane heater and figure out some DIY way to deal with moisture. I already use a battery dehumidifier. The roof vent that was originally on my high-top was for removed and the hole sealed off. I have bought a new one and will replace it asap. I will also install a ducting path to the outside from my rangehood. I would welcome any suggestions based on that dynamic.

 

[maki2]

I am looking at an "Ashley 11K BTU direct vent heater." My research says a direct vent is the same as an outside vent and I figure it should be safer and produce less inside moisture. Also about 1/3 the cost of a Dickinson propane. Does anyone have any experience with these? Is my thinking correct?

Are you willing to build some type of a wall inside the van and then cut a large diameter hole in the side of your van for the vent flu needed to remove the fumes? Not sure if you could make that units flu pipe for travel. You might want to make the whole unit removable for warm weather season. Do you have a place to store it in the off season?

But if you had a portable, free standing AC unit with some forethought perhaps the heater’s vent hole could be used for an AC exhaust hose if the height was compatible.

 

[RonDean]

Are you willing to build some type of a wall inside the van and then cut a large diameter hole in the side of your van for the vent flu needed to remove the fumes? Not sure if you could make that units flu pipe for travel. You might want to make the whole unit removable for warm weather season. Do you have a place to store it in the off season?

But if you had a portable, free standing AC unit with some forethought perhaps the heater’s vent hole could be used for an AC exhaust hose if the height was compatible.

I watched a YouTube video of an Ashley heater install in a S&B house and realized the size of the venting required was larger than I wanted in my van. I still haven't totally ruled it out for some time in the future. As far as just moving my van to where it's warm - when possible, I will do just that. But sometimes I want to be where it is cold, thus the search for a better heating and associated moisture removal solution. Maybe, if I discover something new, I'll post my own YouTube video. In the meantime, the search continues.

 

[StarryNights]

Lots of interesting replies! I have a diesel van, so think the diesel heater remains the best choice since I was able to simply tap into the main diesel tank. I have NEVER smelled diesel exhaust. If outside you can smell a little on startup, but not once running. As for fires, diesel is far safer than gasoline or propane; throw a match into a pool of diesel and it will not ignite.

It might be interesting to hear from some in non-diesel vehicles using these heaters about any problems and solutions on how they handle and store fuel.

I'm in Quartzsite now and turned the heater on 20 min before sunrise when it was 36 outside and 42 inside my somewhat insulated full window van. Ran heater on medium for 49 minutes, turning off when van was an acceptable 66 degrees and sun was up enough to take over. Used 0.045 gallons of fuel (I have the Afterburner controller so am able to track exact usage). Shunt says used well under 1% of battery.

 

[bullfrog !]

If you are like me you will spend a lot of money trying things that just don’t work as well as you want them to. They didn’t kill me but they tried! Lol!!! Ventless heaters work well in well vented areas while awake, alert and attentive. At my age that is seldom! You sit or stand near them to get warm then shut them off when you leave them or go to sleep. The smaller Buddy Heater fell over too easily, the Bigger Buddy Heater got too hot and shut off too easily due to its safety mechanism and hose/filter problems, the Wave 3 didn’t quite make it warm enough for my old bones but did cause my carbon monoxide monitor to go off. I have used a thermostatically controlled ceramic heater on generator and grid and it works just fine so I’m inclined to go towards a thermostatically controlled vented heater. Most diesel heaters are not water resistant to be left outside and filling them inside is problematic. There are just not many options that work. If you have a propane “cooking” stove try using it to heat up a stack of pizza stones (thermal mass) during the day maybe it will keep you warm enough, but take my word for it unvented heaters either don’t work well enough or try to kill you in enclosed spaces in my opinion. The heater you found may be a little much but you can always open a window a little. You are willing to have a big hole for a roof vent so a heater vent shouldn’t be a problem right? In this case probably what appears to be the most expensive will end up being less expensive in the long run! I have probably spent more trying not to spend money for something that works.