good mpg car that can tow 5000 lb trailer

[jpro40]

Hi All,
First post here. My subaru just died and I'm interested in buying a car that can tow a trailer that I can build out and live in. I'm shooting for a 12ft trailer that hopefully I can keep under 5000lb, including water, a few people, etc. (is that realistic?). I'm open to any kind of vehicle, whether it's a truck, SUV, sedan, whatever, but the main goal is something that gets good mpg but can also tow my trailer long distances when I want to go on the road. By good mpg, I'm hoping for 30+ without the trailer, but high 20s would be acceptable too. I'd like to buy used to save money and do not care at all about luxury features.

Thanks,
Joe

 

[highdesertranger]

lots of factors here, first off

5,000 pounds on a single axle trailer is not idea, IMO
a double axle would be much better and much heavier
30+ MPG towing anything with anything ain't going to happen
20+ maybe but I don't see it happening
the lighter trailers are not very durable


we need more info
will this be used for boondocking?
how long do you plan to stay out without resupply?
off highway?
solar?

IMO towing full time should only be done with heavier duty vehicles 3/4 ton or better.

highdesertranger

 

[user 423]

A 6x12 tandem axle cargo trailer will weigh about 2100 lbs. depending on brand,etc.

So unless you want to carry lots of water or heavy appliances,tools,etc. a total weight of 5000 lbs. seems very high.

Diesel pickups and vans will get pretty good MPG but I doubt that they get anywhere near 30MPG. Maybe low 20's unloaded but towing a trailer will bring that down a lot.

Diesel owners on the forum can offer more detail.

 

[bullfrog]

Simple answer is no. 5,000 lbs. is more weight than a small economical vehicle can pull and stop not to mention aerodynamics. The closest you will come to doing that is to use two vehicles. One heavy duty tow vehicle capable of pulling or hauling a living area and a second vehicle. I have thought of towing a Prius with an 3000 watt inverter. That way I could use for cheap transportation and power once I stop in an area. You could use a Class A motor home (we did that towing a Honda Civic (44 MPG in the Honda, motor home got 8 MPG towing) or truck with a car hauler trailer that converts to camper with shower/toilet when at your destination. I hopefully soon will have a 3/4 ton 4 wheel drive older Suburban pulling a 24’ trailer with the front half a camper as you have described with the back half a flatbed area to haul a Suzuki Samurai. Suburban might get as much as 10 MPG but probably less out here in the mountains. The Samurai gets close to 25 MPG which I will be mainly using for transportation while parked if not an electric bicycle. So if I move every two weeks and go 200 miles with a 40 gallon tank of gas to be bought once a month some where between $100 to $160 a month plus what ever I use in the Samurai which is now around half that. So $200 to $320 a month in fuel. Add in costs to dump and fill tanks plus occasional fuel for heat and generator you get close to spending what a cheap apartment in a bad neighborhood would cost. Just depends on what, where and how you want to do things. Many have been trying for years to do what you want to do but the closest they have come is with really too light equipment which didn’t last as long as most would like.

 

[jpro40]

Thanks! Yeah the 30+ mpg figure is for when not towing. I'm fine with getting like 15 or something when towing.

Yes I do plan to boondock. Here are some things I would like to have in my trailer:
-decent supply of solar (400-600 watts?) and lithium batteries
-skylight, a window, roof fans
-insulation
-small kitchen area, including two propane burners and a sink
-solar powered minifridge
-small table with seating
-full size bed (potentially foldout)
-composting toilet
-water supply for drinking and dishwashing for a few weeks
-greywater storage for a week or two
-food supply for about a week
-clothes and various other small belongings

I would like to be able to take some passengers and/or strap on a surfboard or kayak as well to the vehicle, so a little room for extra weight there.
I plan to do everything as lightweight and cheaply as possible, while still maintaining decent quality and aesthetic.

I plan to park the trailer anywhere between 2 weeks to 3 months at a time, rotating between friend's driveways, trailer parks/campgrounds and caravaning with others.

 

[bullfrog]

Just so you know many have found especially as we get older it is cheaper to have two trailers parked or stored in an area that has good summer or good winter weather that we use as a base to explore surrounding areas in smaller economical vehicles without having to tow. I Imagine some of the panel trucks with smaller Diesel engines with a light build out and an electric bicycle would be about as economical as you can get but maybe not as comfortable as you would prefer traveling long distances. In your wish list I didn’t see any heater. If you are going to have a large amount of water and water lines you will have to prevent them from freezing.

 

[Qxxx]

I have a van, but if I were starting over, I would get a 4x4 pickup truck, probably diesel for good mileage, plus some sort of trailer. Then I could setup camp and go about exploring off the beaten track. I would put a topper on the pickup, and have the basic necessities in there for camping back in the boonies after dropping off the trailer.

One thing about mileage is, it isn't really the most important consideration unless you are traveling constantly. Whereas most people tend to setup camp and stay someplace for some time and then move not too far down the road. That's the fun way to see the country, not by driving 400 miles every day like a fanatic.

 

[barleyguy]

If you don't mind 15 mpg when towing, want 30 mpg when not towing, and are going to do extended stays, a trailer probably isn't the right answer. Like Bullfrog implied, you'd probably be better off with a motorhome and a toad (towed vehicle). A Class A or Class C would allow you to tow something like a Prius or other economical vehicle, park the motorhome, and drive the toad.

Another option would be a big truck, a toy hauler, and a small vehicle inside the toy hauler, like a motorcyle, a trike, or a smart car.

 

[grummy]

Hi All,
First post here. My subaru just died and I'm interested in buying a car that can tow a trailer that I can build out and live in. I'm shooting for a 12ft trailer that hopefully I can keep under 5000lb, including water, a few people, etc. (is that realistic?).

5000lbs needs more than "a car", certainly one of "todays FWD cars" to pull off. Lower your weight target and you have some options.

I can vouch for this: I have a 2016 Chrysler Town and Country Minivan. Chrysler claims a 3600lb towing capacity, but also includes some limitations on "frontal area" (I think they say 40 sq ft, but dont quote me). It can routinely do 27-30 mpg alone on the highway with 4 passengers and gear.

I also have a converted 6x12 V-Nose Enclosed trailer. Current weight runs just under the 2990lb single axle with no brakes limits and all the gear I need for a few days.

My experiences towing so far have been positive since feeling better about such a small engine running higher rpms when necessary (you typically run it in 5th gear). Worst towing mpg's are always when into a headwind where I achieve around 14.5mpg, whereas on a long drive where you are lucky to catch a tailwind has pushed me just over 19mpg. Side winds put you in the middle of that.

I've been pretty happy with the combo because I was looking for similar, great mpg when not towing, and at least full size mpg when towing. I would not entertain any trailer larger than 6x12 as it get real difficult to stay under designated gross weights. Having the VAN space instead of a car interior makes it all the more valuable for what I do.

 

[bullfrog]

With his wish list including things like water for several weeks as well as a gray tank, large solar setup and full size bed and composting toilet it ain’t gonna happen. Compromise would open up lots of possibilities but most people nowadays can’t and be happy about their decision. Not all people want or need to live simply. Grummy have you weighed your trailer loaded with you, passengers, your gear and considered the total vans weight capacity when towing? Minivans are great but their brakes and transmissions not so much. Please do check for your own benefit.

 

[grummy]

Grummy have you weighed your trailer loaded with you, passengers, your gear and considered the total vans weight capacity when towing? Minivans are great but their brakes and transmissions not so much. Please do check for your own benefit.

I have... and I do not have those numbers in front of me. I do know the 2016 T&C weighs a hefty 4652 lbs curb weight according to Google, and a 6050 lb GVWR. That leaves almost 1400 lbs for Passengers and Cargo.

Unfortunately, I have never seen a GCWR rating, only found statements that say specifically about the van: "Gross vehicle weight rating is the total weight of a fully loaded vehicle, including passengers and payload – but excluding all towing". Towing Capacity is 3600lb.

I've towed trailers my whole life and have no hesitation towing a loaded 6x12 with it, but I would not advise larger even though I have seen people pulling much larger tandem axle travel trailers with them on the road.

The T&C has the same engine as all their V6 trucks and Promaster vans where they claim as high as 7500lb towing... which boggles my mind because I'd say this 6x12 is my limit if you don't want to be driving under 55mph all the time or enjoy running in 4th gear and perhaps 3800+rpm. Seriously, I can run 75+ easily without a headwind and still turn 16+ mpg's.

I'm not bragging up Chrysler... first new one I ever bought. But, merging into a 75 mph pack on the interstate is not a probelm with the 6 speed. Lots of get up and go with those lower gears. HD transmission cooler that had previously only been installed on Vans with the factory towing package became standard in 2015 as well as the much, much more capable Large diameter dual piston disc brakes.

I know in forums, people prior to 2014 said these vans simply did not stop well, but I'll tell you there is no doubt that they solved that when they went to the dual pistons... this thing stops very, very well.

I'm not recommending the OP go and buy anything... just providing a real world example of what I am experiencing with this teeny 3.6L V6, which is not all that far off from some of the things the OP was hoping for, at least all but the 5000lb trailer.

 

[ckelly78z]

Tow whatever you want with a diesel F250, then pull out a scooter that gets 100 mpg for exploring. My Kawasaki KLR250 Enduro still gets 60-70 mpg at highway speeds, and much better at 35 mph.

 

[bagabum]

Thanks! Yeah the 30+ mpg figure is for when not towing. I'm fine with getting like 15 or something when towing.

Yes I do plan to boondock. Here are some things I would like to have in my trailer:
-decent supply of solar (400-600 watts?) and lithium batteries
-skylight, a window, roof fans
-insulation
-small kitchen area, including two propane burners and a sink
-solar powered minifridge
-small table with seating
-full size bed (potentially foldout)
-composting toilet
-water supply for drinking and dishwashing for a few weeks
-greywater storage for a week or two
-food supply for about a week
-clothes and various other small belongings

I would like to be able to take some passengers and/or strap on a surfboard or kayak as well to the vehicle, so a little room for extra weight there.
I plan to do everything as lightweight and cheaply as possible, while still maintaining decent quality and aesthetic.

I plan to park the trailer anywhere between 2 weeks to 3 months at a time, rotating between friend's driveways, trailer parks/campgrounds and caravaning with others.

Target a 3500 lb single axle aluminum cargo trailer. Your list above will not violate this capacity.  your solar is at 170#,  fan, table chairs. insulation 100#, kitchen area built light weight (not 2x4's and 3/4" plywood)  100#, dc fridge 35/45#,  bed, me building it, 50#, others 200#  , food , misc , clothes, heater, propane  300#, I dont know about composter, I use bucket and storage container for a week of bags. My water source is always a push button gott water cooler, dump bottled water in it when low, I like the screw lid vs friction lid.   You could get this going    adding only 1000# to your build. Keep your containerized water in the TRUCK until needed. (freezing climate,  IDK)   Now focus on reality , a 17 mpg truck towing at 14.

 

[barleyguy]

My full size diesel pickup gets 17 by itself and 10.5 towing a 12000 pound fifth wheel. Interesting perception of "economical vehicle".

 

[barleyguy]

Another short note: I just noticed that the base weight on a 17 foot Casita is 2200 pounds. That plus 1000 pounds of stuff would be 3200.

 

[bullfrog]

And now we understand why so many people like RV Sue chose to pull small fiberglass trailers usually with larger SUVs and really smart ones that full time with 3/4 ton vehicles. Quick, easy with black and gray tanks possible but prices are up there for most at $25,000 or more for new ones. Not much living space per dollar. There truly is a need for light well built trailers that just isn’t being met.

 

[jpro40]

Thanks everyone for the replies so far!! I'm curious about the idea of building a super light weight trailer that can be towed by a vehicle with 3500lb towing capacity.
1) Do others have thoughts on how feasible it would be to keep the weight this low? Ideally I would have around 7x12 dimensions, with at least 6'6" interior height. I'm 6'2" so that would allow me to stand up and have a lengthwise bed after insulation.
Also, someone earlier asked me if I need a heater. Ideally I would like to install a mini wood burning heater, but am also open to diesel heater if that isn't feasible.

2) Let's say the weight of the trailer (full with water, food, etc.) weighs around 3000lb. Is it going to be bad for a car with 3500lb towing capacity to pull near full capacity for long distances? Granted, a lot of my driving will be without the trailer, but I do want to be able to potentially drive it across the country. I don't mind going 60mph on the highway if that is necessary.

 

[user 423]

If you want to build a super light trailer you could buy an aluminum utility trailer and build out a foamie box. Aluminum trailers weigh less but cost more. Foamie construction is nifty and light but entails a lot of planning and work. Here's a link to Teardrops and Tiny Travel Trailers that has a lot of info on the subject:

http://www.tnttt.com/viewforum.php?f=55

I'm considering doing that now but on a 6 x 12 steel utility trailer:

https://www.trailersplus.com/Arizona/Tucson/6-Wide-Utility-Trailers/trailer/4YMBU1215MT010324/

"Long distances" is one thing but long distances over mountains is something else.

You can buy a 7x12 single axle cargo trailer to convert but usually that size comes in a tandem axle (TA). Tandem axle trailers have brakes and are much heavier than a SA trailer. If you do mountains, you need brakes. Tandem axle trailers are recommended for various reasons. Do your research as to why.

BTW: Right now there is a shortage of enclosed cargo trailers because of COVID. Most dealers have depleted inventory and the ones they do have they are asking much higher prices than what they were selling for just a few months ago. That's in Arizona anyway. There may be no problem in other parts of the country.

 

[Cammalu]

Well... there is always this [emoji3].

https://insideevs.com/news/449710/tesla-model-3-tows-huge-airstream-range/

 

[user 423]

If I had some extra money I'd buy Tesla stock. He has a bead on the future.