good mpg car that can tow 5000 lb trailer

[grummy]

Thanks everyone for the replies so far!! I'm curious about the idea of building a super light weight trailer that can be towed by a vehicle with 3500lb towing capacity.
1) Do others have thoughts on how feasible it would be to keep the weight this low? Ideally I would have around 7x12 dimensions, with at least 6'6" interior height. I'm 6'2" so that would allow me to stand up and have a lengthwise bed after insulation.
Also, someone earlier asked me if I need a heater. Ideally I would like to install a mini wood burning heater, but am also open to diesel heater if that isn't feasible.

2) Let's say the weight of the trailer (full with water, food, etc.) weighs around 3000lb. Is it going to be bad for a car with 3500lb towing capacity to pull near full capacity for long distances? Granted, a lot of my driving will be without the trailer, but I do want to be able to potentially drive it across the country. I don't mind going 60mph on the highway if that is necessary.

>>> Ideally I would have around 7x12 dimensions, with at least 6'6" interior height.

A few thoughts on that: the 7 foot wide behind a "Car" will add a lot of exposed "Frontal Area". These trailers seriously act like a parachute behind anything, with the least noticed being a full size van or pickup with a cab height or slightly higher cap. If one is  concerned about a tow vehicle's "ratings", many of them now include "frontal area" into the calculation, though, never really clearly show calculations to use.

My Town and Country Example claims the tow capacity at 3600 but limited to 40 square feet of frontal area. Some say it means entire area, some say it means "exposed" area. Sure wish I could get the absolute truth. A 6 x 12 trailer is 72 sq ft total, but perhaps half of that is countered by the vehicle dimension. And, with that, I can tell you again, I would not want any larger frontal area than what I have when your forced to drive a whole day into a stiff headwind.

A point on trailer height: You being 6'2.... You have to shop a lot of trailers. You will find that some claim the 6'6 but are not that "inside". Behind a "car", you do not want to add any height you really do not need. When I had my StepVan, I had 7 foot. It was awesome. BUT, when I decided to move to a trailer, I had to come to the conclusion that I did not NEED it. I am 5'11.5". I had the opportunity to walk around inside an ambulance body that was 6' on the head. I realized tat when we are in an enclosed area, we all tend to lower our heads when we walk around anyhow, and on top of that, I also realized that 98% of the time I am inside, I am SEATED, or SLEEPING.

In other words, I realized that the odds of me pacing back and forth in a 12 foot trailer were zero. Thus, the lower height was really not an issue, and if I was in my trailer build, I would have simply located a 3"-4" skylight dome in the one spot where I would need to stand, like in front of a sink, or a place to dress. https://www.eztopsworldwide.com/rvskylights.htm

With that, I bought a trailer that was 73" inside, and has worked perfectly for me. Just don't assume you must go higher with the whole thing of one of the affordable domes could solve the problem.


>>>Is it going to be bad for a car with 3500lb towing capacity to pull near full capacity for long distances?
Not necessarily. While you can't expect it to last as long maybe, or run at peak design efficiency, it can last nearly as long if your not abusive to it. Transmissions seem to be the weakest point in the last 10 years, so just don't beat the heck out of it going up long hills. Overheating a trans is a bad, bad thing.

 

[highdesertranger]

" Let's say the weight of the trailer (full with water, food, etc.) weighs around 3000lb. Is it going to be bad for a car with 3500lb towing capacity to pull near full capacity for long distances? "

short answer, yes.

a vehicle with a 3500 pound tow rating is not meant for full time towing.

also is this vehicle a front wheel drive(FWD)?

IMO it's a bad idea to tow anything with a FWD. they are just not designed for that.

highdesertranger

 

[bullfrog]

Aluminum is a great material But does have some liabilities. It doesn’t like repetitive impacts which tend to harden and crack it unlike steel which generally bends. In the past it was harder to find welding shops to repair it. It is expensive. It requires special fasteners or isolation as it reacts with other metals. Feather Weight trailers used to be one of the leading manufacturers I believe. Steel although heavy is going to be much easier, cheaper and better in my opinion if you are going on rough or washboarded roads boondocking. There are lots of cheap light weight bolted together trailers to avoid. Make friends with a welder that builds trailers. Use a quality/heavy duty axle made to carry twice the load you plan to carry if using only one axle and my opinion is you would be better off using two axles rated at the weight you want to carry for several safety reasons. I guess I believe a bigger tow vehicle towing a higher weight rated trailer is the secret to longer life of everything involved after years of towing cheapest smallest trailers with the most light weight most economical vehicles especially if this is going to be your home, you will need it to last. The box on top of the trailer is another story. After years of watching people build cabins on to light a trailer and wondering why the trailer or tires failed and watching the RV manufacturers poorly build or over price their trailers. Unlike the trailer I believe it is possible to build your own better box if you want light weight, well insulated and water tight interiors even with very few skills but that is just my opinion. Would I trade one of my home built trailers for a well built fiberglass trailer on a leaf spring chassis is like asking do you want to trade $2,500 for $25,000. Even with my labor I would come out way ahead. At worst if it doesn’t work out you can sell the flat bed trailer and recoup some of the $2,500. There is a video of a guy that bought a Harbor Freight less than $500 trailer and used 1” foam, Duct Tape and the methods on Teardrops and Tiny Trailers to build a light weight camper for his family to stay in at concerts and on vacations that was still in good condition after being towed with his Subaru at highway speeds for several hundred miles. Maybe that would work for you maybe it won’t. It didn’t for me. It was ugly even by my standards which are pretty low. Lol!!!

 

[barleyguy]

Oh, another option for something lightweight: The Aliner classic has a factory weight of 1590 pounds.

I really like the A-Frame campers. When they are set up, the peak of the roof is 8 feet high, which I think would make them feel less claustrophobic. (I haven't camped in one, so I'm guessing, but it seems reasonable.)

 

[jpro40]

My current thinking is that trying to build a trailer that meets my needs that stays below 3500 lbs, including water, food, people, etc. may be tough. Even if I manage it, it still may not be great for a car with 3500lb towing capacity to tow at full capacity for long distances. If others disagree, I'd be happy to hear more opinions on this.
I'm thinking minimum 5000lb towing capacity would be ideal. Though I've actually been looking at getting a diesel touareg, which doesn't get terrible mpg and can tow 7700lbs.

 

[grummy]

Now that you started thinking VW Diesel Tourareg's.... (ugh) I've got your best scenario based on everything you said.

Buy a full size gas powered Chevy Van. Tow any readily available 7x14 tandem axle cargo trailer. Nothing to "build", no concerns about the "weights" you have indicated. Tons of room EVERYWHERE, affordable, RELIABLE, and comparatively....inexpensive parts/repairs can be found in every city in the United States.

Everyone here has pointed out that your not going to get anywhere near the 30mpg/3500lb towing. I do believe I may have given you the closest possible example with the minivan example.

With the Chev Van, you'll get 16mpg driving the van alone with a steady foot, and probably a reliable 10mpg with the loaded trailer, even if it is loaded to 5000lbs.

The cost of the above..... neither the costs of fuel or repairs (that van and drive line are about as reliable as your going to find anywhere) will add up to what the cost could be of just one mechanical problem with a Volkswagen diesel that needs to be repaired at a VW dealership on the road somewhere. FEW private shops want to work on them, and even some VW dealers will force you to another dealer who will.

Fuel costs currently, and the personal desires of getting unachievable mpg's shouldn't be the main concerns for what you want to do. At least with the full size, V8 powered vehicle, you will be sized appropriate for towing 5000lbs everywhere you want to go while being safe and reliable as well.

 

[Cammalu]

I see a lot of people in vans towing. The gas mileage is pretty poor of course I get that. I’m not sure why or how HDR?) but I end up with a big comfy RV pulling a trailer that gets the same mileage.

 

[Qxxx]

That's because your Class-A weighs probably 25,000 pounds or more, and the UTV you're trailering only weighs 1500 pounds or so. So basically the load is only increased by 5% or so. May only account for 1-2 MPG. Plus, you're certainly not a lead-foot, Cammalu, lol.

With a van plus trailer, it's more like 5,000 pounds pulling 3500 pounds, so closer to doubling the load.

 

[Cammalu]

Not a lead foot? Who me?

Anyway I think we get around 12-14 mpg. I was just mentioning this because I see so many buying vans to save gas money.

 

[user 423]

Anyway I think we get around 12-14 mpg.

Is it a diesel?

 

[Cammalu]

Yes 40 ft diesel.