FALCON'S Aventuremobile conversion thread.

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For those of you who like pictures, and who use Instagram, you can see more of my pictures there - my username is my_wild_dreams_
 
Falcon,
Not only a full rainbow that you could photograph but a DOUBLE full rainbow on your first camp in the wild? That can only mean good things I'm sure!

In Shawnee, were you near Garden of the Gods? I grew up not far from there.
 
Yes, I was getting along very well with nature that first trip with the van. We had the double rainbow, and then an hour or so later, a wonderful sunset. And then a few hours after that, shooting stars!

Yes, when I was at Shawnee NF over Labor Day weekend, we camped right by One Horse Gap Lake. We went over to Garden of the Gods once, and we went swimming at Pounds Hollow two of the days
 

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QUESTIONS
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FINISH FOR TOP SURFACES

Ok - I have the top wood surfaces on the kitchen side (on the left) and on the “storage/desk/table”side (on the right):

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I was originally planning on having it as a wood surface - with some kind of finish to protect it. I did some research on epoxy coatings, but I didn’t want to deal with what it takes. I bought some stuff at the store that I now have at home - I forget exactly what - I think it is some varnish (that is UV resistant). I was expecting to use that. If I do, the wood surface would end up being a different color than the floor. The varnish I bought is similar, so it may be in the same ballpark. But the wood grain is totally different.

Lately, I’ve been thinking about just painting it white like the other surfaces. The white paint I’m using is high gloss paint (which is smooth, durable, and easy to clean). I have no idea whether the paint has any UV resistance or if that matters for paint.

I’m thinking now that from a visual standpoint, I would prefer the white paint. I think that would look better. I’m guessing that it would be comparable from a durability standpoint but I really don’t know.

SO - DOES ANYONE HAVE ADVICE ON THIS? Especially about the durability of using high gloss paint vs using varnish (and maybe some wood wax).



MOUNTING SOLAR PANELS

I have four 100w Renogy panels to mount on the roof. I’ve seen/read of some people who mount them directly on the roof surface - often using some heavy duty double sided tape. But most people seem to put them on top of a roof rack.

If it works as effectively, I would much rather mount them straight on the roof. That way I don’t have to research, buy/order, and install a roof rack.

What are the pros/cons of each method and what do you guys recommend?
 
first off I would do the epoxy on the counter tops, just make sure you get the type that is safe for kitchen counter tops. or you could do a laminate type top, like Formica.

I don't think anybody mount their framed panels directly to the roof. there is always some type of bracket involved. I think maybe you are referring to them using the 2 sided tape to mount the brackets then mount the panel to the bracket. if you use the tape I would only use the 3M VHB tape. I believe it's rated at 5lbs/sq in. however you must take into account that the wind forces while driving greatly increases the load exerted on the brackets. I myself would bolt the brackets down even if using the tape. highdesertranger
 
highdesertranger said:
  I myself would bolt the brackets down even if using the tape.  highdesertranger

IF you use tape, at least safety wire your panels to the vehicle using 1/16" aircraft cable so that when they do fly off at freeway speeds, they don't decapitate the driver behind you.
 
The epoxy is totally out as an option for now, as I'm not going to buy the stuff for it - since I already have materials to do it two different ways. I'll have plenty of time and opportunities down the road to re-do the wood and surface if/when I decide to.
 
My feedback on the roof rack: not much research is needed, get any set of towers and bars that are designed to attach to your drip rails aka rain gutters. You can get ones that lock to the van so you can feel more confident with your solar panels up there. Having a roof rack is really handy... I added one to my roof a few months ago and immediately loved how I could carry more and more gear while leaving my interior wide open for comfort and livability. I ended up getting a big Rocketbox to go next to my longboard surfboard up there and I love it!
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@bpeck. Thanks. I wasn't asking about how to buy/install a roof rack. I was asking whether one is really needed to attach solar panels to the top of the van. I probably will use a rack. My panels will cover the entire roof, so I won't be using the roof for any storage.

Just in case anyone's wondering, I've started preparing my house for sale. I'm doing a lot of work (repairing a bunch of potholes in my driveway and then resurfacing, painting all the walls and the basement floor and the kitchen cabinets, cleaning, fixing things, etc..) That's taking me a long time! Once I get the house ready to sell, I'll get back to finishing the van.
 
Falcon;

Great job and pics. Really like how you analyze everything. Just finished reading your thread from start to finish. Of the 5 star rated threads in this forum; your's is the best yet. I'm going to attend the RTR 2016 in Quartzsite and hope to meet you there (if you go). Looking forward to your future posts. Safe travels.
 
Thank you ainley!

Ok folks, I'm getting back into electrical system research and design. I've been working on wire sizes today. I made a post here asking if I'm doing wire size selection right:
https://vanlivingforum.com/Thread-Wire-size-calculations

In short, here's what I'm thinking: (the wire sizes selected are in the yellow column)
22656260759_b846cc16e4_b.jpg
 
I got a Little Buddy heater in the mail today, so I tested it out in the van. It worked pretty well but I think all the windows let a lot of heat out. There was a huge temperature difference between the top of the van to at the floor - it was warm at the top but pretty damn cold at the floor. So I'd probably want a fan making some vertical air movement. Once I get the curtains/covers for the windows, and a big curtain to separate the front of the van from the back, there will probably be a lot less heat loss.

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This was also the second time I tested the desk surface, and it is a good size. There's plenty of room even when I have a lot of things spread out. The height is good, but I need to get a new bucket for a seat. The bucket I was using before got  destroyed when I was using it for some heavy duty driveway repair work (and I think someone walked off with it).

I've been doing a lot of research and design for the electrical system and I've made a lot of progress. I'm getting close to being able to make a nearly final wiring diagram. The electrical components will go in the compartment below the desk that is to the right of where my feet are when seated. (and those drawers that are to the left of the chair go in the leg/feet area when I'm not using the desk/table)
 
Awesome build and documentation here.   Look forward to seeing your adventures when done.
 
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ELECTRICAL DESIGN UPDATE
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WIRING DIGRAM
Ok, here's a little update on electrical design progress. I've been taking a really long time with this. Partly because I started out not knowing much about electricity and partly because I do a lot of planning and partly because I've not been focusing nearly as well as I could.

I've been working on the wiring a lot - trying to figure out the right wire and fuse sizes and how to connect everything. I think I'm pretty close to having the wiring diagram done. I will probably add the ground wires back in for the CC and the Inverter. I will also be adding detail to the load wires, including voltage converters, switches, etc.


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Link to full size wiring diagram



OUTLET AND METER PANEL
I've just recently started a control/charging panel design. I like switches and buttons and I wanted to include some. I also want to try to use straight DC power about as much as possible and limit inverter use to only things that I use infrequently.

I got started on potential panel designs in the last couple days, and here's what I have so far. The picture below shows three different panel layout options. I will be choosing just one, and will have just one panel like one of these. I'm leaning towards the third design (the one on the right. The far right is the same design but with text titles instead of the device pictures)

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Link to larger picture of this

I'm thinking I would put this panel vertically along the left side of the front of my electrical area (and the rest of the front of the electrical section would be a cabinet door that opens for access to the inside. Oh and I just thought that I should check if the inverter will fit in this panel section as well.


I checked the AC to DC power converters for some of my devices, and they use a variety of voltages.

Phone: 5v, ~1amp
Kindle: 5v, ~.85amps
Personal Laptop: 16.5v 3.7amps
Work Laptop: 19.5v, 3.33amps
Bluetooth Speaker: 9v, 2amps

I get the impression that basically all USB devices are 5v, so that will be simple. I'm thinking I'll get a DC converter for my personal laptop and for the bluetooth speaker. I use both of those a lot. I started looking for DC to DC converters, but I need to look some more. It does look like there are adjustable converters (saw some on Amazon) that might work. If I use those, I will definitely put them after switches so they will only be connected to the battery while I'm actually charging a device (To reduce the risk of fire if I buy some ****** converters that might eventually burst into flames).

I've been looking around at USB outlets and ideas for how to make a panel to mount them on. I'm planning to use Anderson Powerpoles on the cables that use DC voltage converters, so it's cool that the stuff is from Powerwex, because they make the Powerpoles, and they make a cool little outlet type holder for Powerpoles, plus switches, USB outlets, cig. charget outlets, and panels to mount all of these on. (Most of these are here: http://www.powerwerx.com/batteries-chargers/)

This way, will but the AC-DC converters off of the laptop and bluetooth speaker charging cables (I'll save those converters and put Powerpoles on the cut wires). I'll put powerpoles on the section of wire that goes from after the AC-DC brick to the end that plugs into the device. My electrical system will have DC-DC converters after the load junction. After those DC-DC converters will be cables ending in Powerpoles (in the sort of outlet panels that you can see below). This way, when I want to charge my laptop or speaker, I just take the charging cable and plug in the Powerpoles much like plugging in a USB cord or AC outlet.

If I use an on/off switch for everything, and use their mounting panels, all the stuff for it will cost over $200. I could do it much cheaper than that if I really wanted. But this isn't something I mind spending a little more money on. And I know that the switches are not necessary but I might just put all them in because I like pressing switches.  If anyone else knows good sources for this kind of stuff (DC switches, USB outlets, ways to mount them, etc.) please let me know.
 
One thing about the first diagram.  You show the chassis ground fused.  You NEVER fuse the ground!!  It is a common error made by folks not trained in electronics.
 
rvpopeye said:
Move the shunt to where the 100A fuse is...

The shunt is in the correct place.  If the shunt is moved it will never see the load from the buss bar.  Remove the negative fuse.  If you must have it, put it on the inverter.  This is the item you are trying to protect against.
 
outstanding job Falcon! I've been lurking and researching insulation's on this site for more than a few weeks, and you have answered most of the questions that I have. I've got a Ford Transit ordered and is due tomorrow (yea right). I live in Florida and will be using my van to get back and forth to spots, vs living in it. Thanks for all your pictures and explanations!
 
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