E Bicycle. I want one

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just looked at it and unless rad changed their seat post this year that saddle should fit, the mount underneath looks just the same as my schwinn springer saddle. it fit my original post and the trek one. i had to remove the adjustable bits between the rails and mount directly to the rails.
 
Last year when I ordered my Radmini they offered a suspension seat post that added to the minimum seat height but it was out of stock and I didn't want to wait or take a chance it would make the seat to high.
 
Yes they still offer that suspension seatpost but the weight limit for it is 180 pounds. I haven't been at 180 pounds since high school!
 
Seminole Wind said:
just looked at it and unless rad changed their seat post this year that saddle should fit, the mount underneath looks just the same as my schwinn springer saddle.  it fit my original post and the trek one. i had to remove the adjustable bits between the rails and mount directly to the rails.

I stand corrected!!! 

This morning I started looking closely at how the mount works, and you are right....the new Schwinn saddle bolted right on after I removed all the extra hardware and clamp that was included with that saddle. That extra hardware made me think, without looking closely, that the mount was different. I was looking at it at night, its all black, the carboard piece was still zip-tied to the bottom of the new saddle, and I'm an old guy with a stubborn streak...

Anyway, the $12 part I ordered wont be needed.....hey, I can always use it as a spare for the factory saddle if I ever need to quickly switch it back....

So....please accept my humble apologies.

The good thing is that I dont have to wait for the new seatpost to arrive, this new saddle is now mounted on the bike and feels pretty good...

We all can learn something now and then...even me!
 
Yep I've benn trying to get under 180 lbs. for several years now. Eventually Rad bikes will realize they have opened up a whole new market of people with bad knees that have become heavier than most other bike companies build bikes for and make heavier duty seats that are more like a motorcycle seat.
 
bullfrog said:
Eventually Rad bikes will realize they have opened up a whole new market of people with bad knees that have become heavier than most other bike companies build bikes for and make heavier duty seats that are more like a  motorcycle seat.

Worksman makes electric trikes for people that weigh up to about 500-600 pounds ...I don't think Rad is really intending to be in that range, certainly not with the folding bike.

You would need a toy-hauler RV or pickup just to bring those on the road with you...they are fairly large and heavy.
 
This morning I went out and found a rear flat.... :mad:

Took the wheel off, pulled the tube, found the tiny pinhole...

Off I go to Walmart to get a patch kit, the only 'patches' I have now are plug kits for tubeless motorcycle tires.

I had ordered a spare tube online a few days ago but it's not here yet.

The adventure begins!
 
That was a fair amount of effort...pulling the wheel was easy but putting it back on (after repairing the tube) was a pain. 

Keep in mind this bike has a bit more hardware back there compared with a regular bicycle, with torque arms and power cables for the motor that pass thru the axle, plus the normal derailleur and brake hardware. I've never had a bicycle with disc brakes...it helps to open up the caliper a bit before trying to re-insert the brake rotor.

After about an hour of cussing I finally got the wheel back on the frame, derailleur re-adjusted and rear brake re-adjusted. Also had to do a bit of work on the trailer coupler, its not really made for this type of axle.

Trust me, changing the wheels and tires on a motorcycle is a lot easier to do.

Took it for a ride and all seems to be good again.

In the future I will be avoiding the 'sticker patches' around here as much as I can.... 

:dodgy:
 
I live in the land of goat heads and Russian Olive trees. The very first thing I did was buy two new tubes, cut out the valves and split them around the inside to make a linner to put between the tire and tube Sort of a liner that makes it a longer distance for the sticker to penetrate to the inner tube. Once mounted, deflate and remove the tire valve so 4 oz. of Stan's tire sealant (liquid latex) can be poured/injected in the inner tube, replace the valve and inflate to 20 lbs. Six months to a year from the time you do this you may have to add more Stan's as it eventually dries out. It can cause a slight inbalance. It will make the tire heavier. I have done this and until the rear tire wore down, had no flats for almost 800 miles and 10 months. Last month I had 2 flats both on the worn rear tire. I added more Stan's, inflated and no problems untill went off road, but again same process and good to go. I will this winter replace both tires, remake two liners and replace both tubes filled with Stan's. I will keep the front tire liner and tube if they look to be okay as spares. I have no doubt the inside of my rear tire looks like the outside of a catus as I can see may thorns flush with the outer tire tread.
 
I did add some Slime tube sealant. It's all I could find at the local WM. 

They did not have any 20x4 tires or tubes...so I made do with a patch kit. 

We don't have a bicycle shop anywhere close....so this may end being a matter of keeping tubes, tires, and other parts on hand by ordering online...which I did but the order had not arrived before the pinhole did.

I had some trouble with the rear tire 'expanding' a bit and lifting the bead off the rim when I inflated it above about 20 psi...those balloon tires are kinda soft. I was able to dismount and fully re-mount the tire using only my hands, no tire spoons needed at all....the tires have 'Wire Bead' printed right on the sidewall but possibly this one has a defect in that bead? Not really sure. 

I need to find a forum and do some poking around to see if that is common with those tires, or just a problem with this one.

About how many miles of wear can I expect from these knobby Kenda tires, assuming I dont tear them up? 

For my next set, I want to try to find heavy duty 'puncture resistant' tires and tubes, if they are available.
 
Thanks for the link, I looked at the selections and I dont see a 20x4 fat-tire size liner.

I'm sure they are available somewhere.

And yes, I actually have a couple of small motorcycle tire repair kits that include Slime, a small 12v air pump and plugs for tubeless tires. I have used it a few times, but sometimes a can of Fix-A-Flat will get you to the next town, and works about as well for tubeless tires on motorcycles. I once used the kit to help a fellow rider plug an overheated, partially melted, run-flat tire on a Harley FLHP (Police Bike). That was 'interesting' in the middle of nowhere, in summer heat, on hot pavement, no shade, and limited tools.

I digress... 

I do also have a small bicycle hand pump and will be adding that to my tools on-board the trailer when I'm out on the road.
 
The liners sometimes are made of a stiffer material and flex at different rates causing holes or pinching them. The old tubes have not. Stan's for bicycle tires can be bought on line and for bicycles does a superior job of sealing. The rims on the Radmini do not have a lip like the tubless rims do so it is important to keep weight off the tire and hold it up slightly when inflating the tire. I have found the Ryobi 18 volt compressor ideal for bicycles as it is slow to inflate car tires but just right for bikes. These are just my opinions and what have worked for me in extreme conditions. Let us know how it works for you if you do something different.
 
You could always throw a 26x4 tire liner in there, no harm but the little bit of extra weight. Heck, it would be that much more that is doubly protected. Bonus, if you ask me!

I run tire liners and Slime on my RadRover. Man, every ride I come back with another wet spot or two on the tires. The Slime has done it's job well, though. I have yet to need to air up even with all those micro punctures, many from goatheads here in Denver. The liners have been disappointing, but that may also be because the stock tires are quite thin with knobs super far apart. I didn't run Slime in my non-e mountain bike but with just tire liners and decent knobbies I hadn't had a flat in years on these same roads. The tires made a big difference, it seems.

I may just double up tire liners next time I need to take a wheel off. What's another couple ounces, the fricking thing's a tank already, LOL.
 
AJ452 said:
You could always throw a 26x4 tire liner in there, no harm but the little bit of extra weight. Heck, it would be that much more that is doubly protected. Bonus, if you ask me!

I run tire liners and Slime on my RadRover. Man, every ride I come back with another wet spot or two on the tires. The Slime has done it's job well, though. I have yet to need to air up even with all those micro punctures, many from goatheads here in Denver. The liners have been disappointing, but that may also be because the stock tires are quite thin with knobs super far apart. I didn't run Slime in my non-e mountain bike but with just tire liners and decent knobbies I hadn't had a flat in years on these same roads. The tires made a big difference, it seems.

I may just double up tire liners next time I need to take a wheel off. What's another couple ounces, the fricking thing's a tank already, LOL.



i had a hundred flat free miles on my mini when i rolled into the RTR last year. i put 22miles on cruising around camp that first day. woke up next morning to 2 dead flat tires from all the burrs and cacti i had run over. all i did was put in the heavy duty load of slime in each tire and air up. not only did that get me through the RTR but it was 6 months and a few hundred more miles before i even needed to air up again. and i have been good to go since. stock tires, no liners.

i do carry a small hand pump just incase and i often air down for the trail and then air back up for the street
 
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