Driving in Mountains and Hills

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I have never downshifted when going uphill, only on downhill grades.

When and under what circumstances would one do that?

Inquiring minds of widows traveling alone would like to know. ;)
 
I downshift going up hills all the time because I just don't have enough power to stay in overdrive.
 
Hmmmm, I will have to try that.

I downshift going downhill to protect my brakes and to “let your engine do it’s job”, as I was told.

That’s what I thought was the purpose of downshifting. :unsure:

Downshifting going uphill seems contradictory to my non-mechanical mind, reducing power when you need more power.

I’ll try it.
 
You increase your mechanical gearing advantage and by doing so can work your engine more efficiently at a speed it produces the most power. Allowing your engine to lug (having the engine slow down while pushing the accelerator petal down) will cause it to overheat and therefore increase wear.
 
My RV has a 6 speed automatic with 5 and 6 both overdrive gears, and 4th being just under direct drive. So I expect it to downshift in the hills.

6L90E

1st 4.03,
2nd 2.36,
3rd 1.53,
4th 1.15,
5th .85
6th .67
 
Downshifting going uphill seems contradictory to my non-mechanical mind, reducing power when you need more power.
It sort of depends on your engine/tranny combination and vehicle weight. Some transmissions are good at selecting the right gear for climbs and others not so good. Newer rigs have more gears and do a better job with shift points.

My older Ford has a 4-speed auto and the 4th. gear is overdrive. When climbing, needing to shift out of OD depends on the incline, speed and momentum. There's a handy button at the end of the shift lever that takes it in and out of OD, so it's not necessary to actually shift with the lever. Some really steep climbs do require using 2nd. gear.
 
Don't want to confuse people, but my transmission is manual 5spd with 5th gear being an overdrive gear. I sometimes have to downshift into 3rd on the steep hills to keep my rpm's in the power range. Automatics are a bit different and they should downshift automatically to stay in that power range going up hill. But as others have said, you can always disengage overdrive to get more responsive power going up a big hill.
 
My favorite is home steak pass by butte on 90... going East in the winter has it’s challenging moments. But following the posted speed limits for trucks has been a good idea and good trailer brakes. My trailer was a big canoe trailer and I’d use the brake controller to use those brakes vs my truck brakes for short times. Also, if chains required... putting drag chains on the trailer was huge.
The steepest I can recall was Mt Carmel in California. After your past the point of no return there is a sign telling you not recommended for vehicles with trailers or trucks... it was steep maybe 10 or 12% in places with sharp curves. Add late at night (dark)... was a great way to break in a new tranny and clutch...
 
I need to find someone to give me a driving lesson on this at some point, or I’ll be driving up a hill and trying to figure this out.

I would suggest that if the transmission keeps shifting back and forth going up a grade, like it cant quite pull the higher gear, but the lower one may not quite be enough, you should manually shift into a lower gear to prevent the constant up and down automatic shifting, and lower your driving speed to keep the engine in a reasonable RPM range without over revving the engine. Once over the crest of the hill I shift back into the higher gear if conditions allow it to pull the gear comfortably, and again downshift if need be on the next grade it cant quite pull.

Owners manuals often mention manually shifting out of overdrive when pulling a trailer. I dont as a general down the road thing in my 4runner as mine is a light pickup bed trailer, but if its unable to pull the higher gear without constant shifting back and forth I do shift out of overdrive.

Ive known some people that seem to get infuriated that a vehicle wont go blasting at full tilt up any hill or mountain and will run it as hard as possible to try to MAKE it go the speed they want. They seem intent on blowing up the motor or transmission trying to force the rig to do what its unable to. Id never allow such a person to drive and abuse my vehicle.
 
So....(comparing here) I'm on the road with a 1989 Marathon , Ford E-350, 7.5 Liter V8 (460CID), 4sp OD tranny with 3:73 Diff gears. My "dingy"..is a 2010 Wrangler Sport (5,600GVW). On "steep" uphills/downhill roads, I, 1) 4 way flasher "On" every time. 2) Maintain tranny in 2nd gear at an average 25/30 Mph speed, (lower speed on curbs). Minimal Use of "Brakes", (to Avoid overheating)......** I use PROLONG ENGINE TREATMENT also TRANNY Treatment....(keeps Engine Temperatures running 40°F COOLER). I've operated this way for over 116,000 Odo. Miles (Total mileage of my 32 yrs YOUNG.. Motorhome) ** Power Plant (engine) and Transmission still ORIGINAL. Brakes Serviced Only Once.
Have you invested in a tranny transmission temp. gauge?
If not, why?
 
2012 Chevy Express RV with a 6.0L Vortex, and 6L90 Transmission, I'll be pulling a car behind me.
Some States require the towed object to have it's own active braking system. I spent several thousand dollars for a system that would apply the brakes to my Toad. In hindsight I should have bought a car trailer that had electric brakes.
.
 
This is the best part of driving a Class A. If anything happens, you're first on the scene.
 
Yes, keep it in tow/haul mode in the mountains and manually shift your auto into a lower gear and go slower. Your transmission and brakes will thank you.

Suggestion: Keep the MH off of the narrow roads in the Black Hills during the first two weeks of August (the height of the Bike Rally) ESPECIALLY Hwy 16a (Iron Mountain Road) and Hwy 87 (Needles Highway) south of Keystone.
 
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I have never downshifted when going uphill, only on downhill grades.

When and under what circumstances would one do that?

Inquiring minds of widows traveling alone would like to know. ;)
I bough a Blue Driver Bluetooth OBDII scanner. I set it up to monitor the load on the engine. I downshift if the load gets above 70%. It displays on my phone. If the Chec Engine Light comes on, I can look up the code online and be somewhat knowledgeable speaking to mechanics. About a hundred bucks.
 
So....(comparing here) I'm on the road with a 1989 Marathon , Ford E-350, 7.5 Liter V8 (460CID), 4sp OD tranny with 3:73 Diff gears. My "dingy"..is a 2010 Wrangler Sport (5,600GVW). On "steep" uphills/downhill roads, I, 1) 4 way flasher "On" every time. 2) Maintain tranny in 2nd gear at an average 25/30 Mph speed, (lower speed on curbs). Minimal Use of "Brakes", (to Avoid overheating)......** I use PROLONG ENGINE TREATMENT also TRANNY Treatment....(keeps Engine Temperatures running 40°F COOLER). I've operated this way for over 116,000 Odo. Miles (Total mileage of my 32 yrs YOUNG.. Motorhome) ** Power Plant (engine) and Transmission still ORIGINAL. Brakes Serviced Only Once.
I have a 1988 Mallard on an E350 also, the same setup. My toad is a 2000 Jeep Grand Cherokee 4x4 at about the same weight, filled with what crap I can't fit in the RV while on the road. What's your avg mpg?
 
I don't manually downshift going up hill. My transmission is a 6 speed and has the newfangled semi-auto thing where I could increment or decrement the selected gear. But I find it easier to just let the transmission do it's thing. If it pops up into a higher gear going uphill, which it often does, I let off on gas for an moment until it drops back, and gently ease the pressure back on.
My van gets the best mileage at 2000rpm, so I strive to stay in that range.
I've yet to need downshifting on the way down. But I'm pretty used to having crappy brakes. So by habit I'm always trying to avoid braking going down hill.
 
I have a 1988 Mallard on an E350 also, the same setup. My toad is a 2000 Jeep Grand Cherokee 4x4 at about the same weight, filled with what crap I can't fit in the RV while on the road. What's your avg mpg?
11 to 14 MPG....(variable ).
 

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