Cubic mini wood stove

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grahampa

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After much internal deliberation, I have decided to go with a wood stove for my heating system. Originally I thought it was going to be much too expensive, but I've realized after all is said and done it could actually be a much less expensive way to heat. Plus it's actually safer, and dry heat will help keep my van moisture free. the cubic mini wood stove "cub" style is my choice along with the wall mount to match. This is about a 600$ investment to have it shipped. Is this a smart idea?

Does anyone have experience installing a wood stove / wall mount? Any advice or corrections to my idea are welcome. Thanks!
 
Will take up a lot of space while burning in order to be safe. What vehicle?

Fuel is very rarely available free anymore in many places.

Fire risky area will have ban weeks / months.

Ash needs proper disposal.

Not dealbreakers, in general great idea, just be aware / overcome these issues.
 
Using the wall mount it takes up a fairly small amount of space. About 2 ft wide, 3 ft tall and 3 ft straight out. 

https://cubicminiwoodstoves.com/pages/cubic-cub-cb-1008-specs

I know the fuel is not free always but it can be sometimes. Plus it's available at most every gas station (compressed logs). 

Fire bans could pose a problem but usually end up being summertime issues, could have a backup Mr buddy heater on hand if necessary. 

I'll be in summit county CO and going north to Alaska for the summer.
 
"Fuel is very rarely available free anymore in many places"

I don't know what part of the country you are in but out west here there is plenty of free wood. these little stoves burn very little wood I doubt that you could burn 1/4 of a cord per season even if you tried.

"Fire risky area will have ban weeks / months."

why would you want a fire during a ban that's the hot part of the year. let's use some common sense here. of course you need the proper spark arrestor for when the stove is in use.

"Ash needs proper disposal"

you mean like in the millions of existing fire rings?

the issue I would be concerned about are when driving, what about the stack? are you planning on removing the stack? plugging the stack? you most certainly don't want air from driving reversing the flow even if the stove is not lit. of course you never want to drive with a lit stove and must wait hours between the stove being lit and driving.

highdesertranger
 
Have you looked at some of the 50 caliber ammo can woodstove builds on youtube ? If properly vented, heat protected on the sides, and bottom, and exhausted though a double wall chimney, this might be an option for less than $50 (roughly a 11"x 6"x 6" firebox).

I am currently building one to try in my small shop, and will burn downed branches from my yard/woods cut down to 10" lengths. Very plentiful fuel, but it's not all dry, and burnable.
 
Thanks hdr I think I he meant well as in Cali they had fires in November this year so it could be cold. Definitely something to think about. Was looking into spark arrestors because of his comment.

But glad you brought up the issue of the stack. Is it possible just to seal it off while driving? Then vent the stove into the living area after putting the fire out and run the vent fan. 

What about a fresh air intake? Do I need one directly to the stove?

CKelly I will look into those stove builds for the future I just placed the order on the cubic mini wood stove "cub" for my 2002 E250 extended cab. It will take up some decent space is my only concern. But creates the best heat.
 
they make a deck pass through for boats and a rubber bung to seal it when not in use.

for sure you need a USDA approved spark arrestor. these days I don't think they will cut you much slack if you don't. keep us updated. interesting subject and I am thinking about doing the same thing. highdesertranger
 
Slim Potatoehead has some videos of his homade wood stove in his Aliner on You Tube. He is using removable stack and external intakes.
 
Awesome I will have to check out both options for travel. does anyone know if I absolutely need a fresh air intake directly into the stove or would just the flue pipe enough?
 
you must have enough fresh it's a matter of life and death. does the stove have a provision for a fresh air intake? I mean a dedicated air intake. highdesertranger
 
You’re getting lots of good information here, but from one woodstove owner to a potential one, I think it’s critical you speak with someone who really knows woodstoves before you install and start using one in your truck.

There are places that sell these, which are a wonderful resource, and the company making the one you have ordered will also have experts who can advise you.

Them, too, is my suggestion.
 
The manual that came with it would be my first stop. I would think it should tell you how to hook up a dedicated fresh air intake if it requires one. And heed the warnings, don't skimp on reading. You will be using this in a confined space. Please get a good (made for RV) carbon monoxide detector and a smoke alarm. If you will also be hauling propane for cooking, get a propane detector (made for RV).
 
From the videos I have watched this mini-wood stove has adjustable draft openings at the front of the stove drawing air from the heated area plus you have to open the door of the stove to feed it wood. All would require proper outside air vents. Even with those I would keep a a couple vents open and use electronic warning devices just for safety. It is an old proven method to heat but it is also a fact many fires and deaths have occured when trying to use them in small spaces like sail boats. Also with something this small the fuel must be replentished quite often and ash cleaned out as well. To me it would be nice to have on a cold evening for a few hours but I would hate to have to fuel and clean it or depend on it to stay warm over night. An open flame in an enclosed area that has a fuel tank within a few feet would worry me more than it is worth. I think I will stick to a fire ring and a camp fire when and where permitted.
 
It's really easy to keep some embers going and to replenish a fire Midway through the night, that's not bothersome to me. Yes the ash will be annoying but still better than heating with propane imho. I grew up with a wood stove heating our house and understand the ins and outs, just wondering if the fresh air intake should go directly into the stove or if having my separate vent system would be enough as long as the smoke is vented out. Of course I plan to have co2 and all necessary monitors. It's not an open flame when it is enclosed in a fireplace with many layers between that and the gas tank. Propane will be used for cooking but will also not pose a problem as they will be small 1lb tanks stored under my bed, far from the fire.

Hdr the stove has options for a fresh air intake but I decided against it. Reasoning to myself that the roof vent I have plus maybe a cracked window would be enough. I am sure a 3" fresh air intake is too large for this small stove, but possibly will create my own.

I have not received the stove yet but have done some research and have exp with wood stoves. Best feeling heat too. Plus with the skiing I plan to do I want it to help dry the inside of my van.
 
If going into snow country I would suggest you give thought to placing and shielding vents so that snow accumulation does not block air flow and the vents are easily checked. My old vehicles wouldn't be a problem but new vehicles with good air tight seals could be. I have had a flash fire occurr because of propane. When you open the door to fuel spraks some times fly out so the little ash tray either theirs or a home made one is a good idea. With the vents open and the door open on the stove it is an open flame and I would consider mounting it on the wall as high as possible considering the minimum safe clearance as those little disposable propane bottles do some times leak and as propane sinks consider a floor vent as well as storing the propane containers in an air tight container/ or storage compartment vented to the outside. If you need an example of what I'm saying store the propane containers in a plastic tote with a lid for a few weeks and then take it outside, remove the lid, stick your head in and take a big whiff. I think you might change your mind about how you store your propane.
 
I would use the fresh air intake option that almost makes it a closed system. the only time it's not is when you are stoking it. yes have the monitors but that is for everyone that burns anything In a van.

BTW it's a CO(Carbon Monoxide) detector not a CO2(Carbon Dioxide) detector. I am sure you know that but I wanted to make it clear for anybody that didn't know.

highdesertranger
 
bullfrog said:
  If you need an example of what I'm saying store the propane containers in a plastic tote with a lid for a few weeks and then take it outside, remove the lid, stick your head in and take a big whiff.  I think you might change your mind about how you store your propane.

So do this is a good idea to store these small propane tanks in a plastic tote, right? Should it leak, it will be contained enough to not cause a fire or explosion should a spark should happen nearby?
 
GrayWhale said:
So do this is a good idea to store these small propane tanks in a plastic tote, right? Should it leak, it will be contained enough to not cause a fire or explosion should a spark should happen nearby?

NO, ABSOLUTELY NOT!

the last thing you want to do is contain explosive gasses mixed with air. if you have a leak you want it to disperse. hopefully you will smell the odorizing agent before it goes boom and you can stop and deal with it. the reason propane should be stored outside or in a ventilated compartment is so it can disperse outside and not get concentrated enough to cause a problem

if you cant (or wont) store your propane outside or in a properly ventilated space, check them for leaks when you hook them up, when you disconnect them and keep your nose and ears tuned for leaks. propane when handle with a little respect and care is an extremely safe fuel
 

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