Cigarette lighter 12 volt plugs

[wagoneer]

When it comes to quality i will not accept failure of an inferior grade component, besides "marine grade" is a "military grade" available?? just lost food because of a plug failing on my old Waeco cf-35.

 

[WheelEstate USA]

Cut off that damn ciggy plug and hardwire your fridge with a fuse. That lousy plug is the weak link to an otherwise good appliance.

 

[wagoneer]

Thanks yes that is how I had it in the van, a simple fix, see you all in "Q"

 

[WheelEstate USA]

Cool...see ya in Q.

 

[SternWake]

Ciggy plugs are a crime against electricity.

If they absolutely must be used, at least use a Blueseas version and wire the receptacle with 10AWG.

https://www.amazon.com/Blue-Sea-Systems-Volt-Socket/dp/B004XIWF12

If one uses the O ring as designed, and twists the plug into the detents, no way will this plug rattle loose.

But it will still drop voltage across it.

Here is a typical 12v plug, after failure. this was feeding current to my laptop.
See the discolored spring and melted plastic

Ciggy plugs are criminal and seek to destroy the appliance using them.

 

[SternWake]

Since i was already signed to photobucket, here are more pics showing the Blue seas 12v receptacle and plug:

I have never employed this plug in my Van.

I have 7 ciggy receptacles in my Van wired up before I knew bettery, but they are never asked to pass more than 15 watts, powering a 1 amp fan or 3 watt LED light.

I use 45 amp anderson powerpoles for all other connections now, but these to not have the internal fuse to protect wiring like ciggy plugs have

 

[frater secessus]

If food spoilage is absolutely not acceptable one might consider pressure canning.

an 8qt canner would do several pints at a time and could also be used for pressure cooking and normal big pot duties. Canners work fine on propane or Coleman stoves. They can also be used to sterilize objects (10mins @ >=10# pressure).

 

[Vagabound]

One of many planning tasks is how to do 12v wiring.  And that leads to plugs and types of plugs, etc.  Beyond the standard cigarette lighter plug, I know almost nothing.

While searching, I found this webpage.  Although it isn't a comparison sheet, it seems to be a pretty good list of options and doodads.

http://www.12volt.com.au/redirect.html?a=/General Htmls/webcat2003/plugs2.html

(I just noticed that webpage above is from Australia.  So, not sure how much is applicable, but it is still an example I guess.)

I'm sure that this topic has been talked about 100 times here, in bits and pieces, in many threads, but if anyone is aware of one thread here or website link that provides a good compare-and-contrast sheet for 12v connections, please point it out.

Thanks,

Vagabound

 

[Matlock]

One day, most likely many many years from now, someone will realize there is a need for an easy, reliable 12/24/48 volt DC connect/disconnect device. And equally important, an affordable sure-fire (meaning no-fire) way of crimping the correct size of stranded wire to the device. Power polls are great but not something I want to plug/unplug every day. USB plugs are just silly. I charge a half dozen USB items daily.

Dare I say, all the confusion around DC and its related components are not yet ready for primetime. With the growing number of items requiring wall wart step down AC to DC chargers someone needs to step up and offer an industry standard. Scrap the ciggy plug and design a workable low voltage DC component "selection". And what's all this about Bluetooth wireless charging? Can that be efficient? I gotta read more.

As a side note I'm hearing about grid security and that by going to a Edison style DC system across the country it would all but eliminate the threat of a massive power disruption.

 

[jimindenver]

I have to agree with direct wiring for a stationary appliance, I would upgrade the cord too while I was at it. Even smaller appliances benefit from having the plug removed. I've ran a 12v coffee pot direct, the kind most people toss after one use. It cut the brew time in half.

 

[jimindenver]

A cigarette plug could be improved by wiring directly to the center pin and bring the fuse outside. That way you would have fewer connections and not use the spring as a conductor.

 

[SternWake]

A cigarette plug could be improved by wiring directly to the center pin and bring the fuse outside. That way you would have fewer connections and not use the spring as a conductor.

But a spring is still required to push the (+) nipple tip against the center contact inside receptacle.  I've tried it without the spring and it just does not stay connected unless one uses a rubber band to pull plug into receptacle.

I had one plug design, the bakelite in the link vagabound link, that has no internal fuse.  I ran 10 gauge right to the spring loaded nipple tip, and the ground springs on the side.  With this heavier wire the spring proved to be too weak and any tension on the thicker heavier wires would break contact.

I did this mainly to best case scenario test the limits of current passing capability of the best Ciggy plug/receptactle combo, but then realized my efforts would be futile as it was mainly to show just how poor a connection a Ciggy plug is, something I was already well aware of.  I was going to do a bunch of testing showing how much loss there was in the connector at 15 amps vs a anderson powerpole, but the Ciggy plug will live on far longer than I care to ridicule it.  It is an ubiquitous standard not likely to go anywhere soon, and destined to waste electricity and cause issues for many many years to come.

When a fridge compressor is running, and the ciggy plug works its way loose, this stresses the F out of the circuitry of the compressor's controller, especially if a fast intermittent looseness, where there is likely a continuous spark exists in between nipple tip and receptacle.  At least the Blue seas design has the recesses which the ground springs can fit into and make it 50% harder to pull the plug out.  The ribbed flat O ring which is for prevention of water intrusion causes way more friction and makes the plug much harder to pull out unless one puts some silicone grease on it.

I use my blue seas 12v plug on some LED lighting in my workshop.  I peeled the O ring back so I can turn the lights on and off with one hand.  that is the only thing I like about the design, One can back the plug out ~ 1 CM and turn off the appliance and push it home to turn it on.

The springs the ciggy plugs rely on for electrical connection do wear out, and they wear out faster the more heat that they have to endure.  Eventually the plug will get so sloppy it will barely work at all, at which point the plastic housing the springs melts.

They should last for a while passing sub 60 watts and have few issues at less than 30 watts, but ask them to pass more than 60 watts and they are a ticking time bomb.

Also note that since they drop voltageacross them, and the device could still be requesting the same wattage, the amps go up at the lower voltage, increasing heating of the contacts more, causing more voltage drop, upping the amperage requirement, causing more heat, more voltage drop, more amps required.  On and on.

Anderson Powerpoles do require some wiring skill, and one would be wise to invest in their special crimpers especially on the 45 amp contacts( the 15/30/45's all use same plastic housing and will mate with each other).
  These do not have built in fuses, and are not so easy to connect with one hand, but are a far far superior electrical connection.  I can get 8awg  wire, just barely into the 45's but I do not recommend trying it.

There are a few other connectors similar in appearance to ciggy plugs but far superior, and of course not nearly as widespread.  I am thinking of the Minn Kota trolling motor connector.

http://www.minnkotamotors.com/Products/MKR-18-PLUG-AND-RECEPTACLE/

Terminating electrical wiring properly can be taken to extremes:

http://www.pbase.com/mainecruising/battery_cables

http://www.pbase.com/mainecruising/terminating_small_wires

That webpage has all sorts of good stuff relevant to RVing.

http://www.pbase.com/mainecruising/deep_cycle_battery

http://www.pbase.com/mainecruising/automotive_alternators_vs_deep_cycle_batteries

 

[GotSmart]

I like the Blue Seas, but have gone one step further to have the ability to shut things off without pulling plugs.

 

[Vagabound]

Ran across this connector online being bundled with a 12v appliance, to allow connection to a DIY power source.  Anyone familiar with this "aviation connector" and how it compares?

http://thumbs4.ebaystatic.com/d/l225/m/meHcB7vhRRYvmJ0uOiVRfYw.jpg

or these:

http://thumbs1.ebaystatic.com/d/l225/m/mwAjRUhnfUdlaODw6UUGIaA.jpg

Vagabound

 

[AngryVanMan]

[img=200x100]https://powerwerx.azureedge.net/pow.../asset/image/rigrunnercompare/4007U.jpg[/img]

I like me the power pole option, as long as you put one side of the plug in a housing or bracket, they are as easy as any household plug to connect/disconnect I think. Lots of options!

 

[wagoneer]

Some great responses, and thank you, chest fridge is my freezer although the built-in works while traveling if not level is iffy and does suck up propane. where do I find these power poles?

 

[Optimistic Paranoid]

Some great responses, and thank you, chest fridge is my freezer although the built-in works while traveling if not level is iffy and does suck up propane. where do I find these power poles?

Amazon does sell them, but some of the specialty places have stuff you can't find on Amazon.  Take a look at Powerwerx:

https://powerwerx.com/

 

[Mobilesport]

@ Angry van man
Good post,, thumbs up

 

[SternWake]

The 30 amp powerpoles can be used with 12-14 gauge wire and can use a standard dimple crimper.
the 45 amp powerpoles contacts require more crimping skill and should be used with 10 or 12 gauge wire.
Their special crimper should be considered practically mandatory for the 45 amp versions.

I've bought all mine on Amazon.

I have used a square file to mount a set of PPs into my dashboard tightly, a friction fit.

Be aware of the fusing, If one side of the powerpole is fed with 12 gauge and fused at 30 amps at fuse block, and the other side of the powerpole to the device is only 16 awg, the 16 awg must be fused for less amperage as 29 amps might not blow the 30 amp fuse and the 16 awg insulation can melt and catch fire.

I like these ATC fuse holders:

https://www.amazon.com/Blue-Sea-Sys...id=1475173541&sr=1-9&keywords=atc+fuse+holder

but of course other options exist for cheaper if waterproofedness is not required

 

[wayne49]

SternWake,

Do the Blue Seas fuse holders NOT heat up like the cheapo inline fuse holders passing >20amps? (I expect not, if you recommend them, but want to make sure.)

Thanks.