Canine said:I have spray in foam insulation with composite studs. I use the composite studs for weight reduction and mitigating thermal breaks.
If I needed 2" of rigid foam board insulation, instead of using 2" sheets, I would use two 1" sheets and overlap the seams to stop the thermal breaks that are created when two sheets of insulation are butted together.
I will be installing AC as well. Here is what I will get. It will be a while because I need to take care of other things first.
https://americancomfort.com/acw-1000-btu-personal-air-cooler.asp
It seems common sense to me, but a unit like that is made for blowing cold air on you not for cooling down a room. A lot of people don't understand that running an AC unit unconnected to a vent will heat a room up. The heat needs to be vented in order for a room to cool down. I have little doubt this will cool down the overhead sleeping area in my camper. As to the rest of the camper? Meh, probably not, but of course I'm going to try. This isn't DC, but a DC unit is crazy expensive. I'll take the small energy loss using an inverter. Another benefit of an AC unit is I'm not required to mount the AC almost on top of the battery bank or use huge wiring to get some distance; I can plug in an extension cord and move it around.
I've looked and looked, but can't find a page I was looking at that discussed insulating the inside of metal pipes and square tubing. Long story short, insulating the inside of tubing does almost nothing. Eliminating the convective heat transfer inside a hollow pipe by filling it with spray foam insulation is a pittance compared to the conductive heat transfer of the metal wall. While you didn't bring this up, I thought it may be of interest.
That's a really cool AC unit, haven't seen that one before! I wish I knew what 1000 BTU actually feels like in person, even though from a numbers stand point it probably won't be enough to stabalize the temperature unless you have amazing insulation. Seems like a great little unit though. It obviously uses less power too, but it dosn't look like you are acheiving better efficiency overall compared to the U-go if you take into account BTU. And you are correct about having to use the inverter bringing down the efficiency like another 10% or whatever it is. The ACW unit is also a lot less expensive if you are trying to keep within a budget. I will probably stick with U-go for now, but let us know how it goes if you decide on the ACW.
That's also a really great idea about using 2 layers of overlapping panels to plug the gaps. Most likely, I won't even know exactly how much space I will have in terms of depth between the support beams until I start actually insulating. I'm guessing it will be about an inch.
I've seen some other videos about people using studs, but my only concern was that it would increase the thickness too much. I've also heard some things about the spray foam insulation, like it's not mold resistent (although I'm sure they add something to resist mold), and that it dosen't hold up to vibrations over time very well.
Also, yes you are correct about not being able to get around the thermal conductivity of a metal tube -- I just wanted something in there instead of just keeping it hollow because you can at least absorb noise in terms of vibration and do something to resist rust or mold -- this is why I would like to spray in Flex Seal as a first step before using silcone sealant. Plus, I'm going to stuff in pieces of insulation, whether I use aerogel or foam, because you only need thin strips and I will probably end up with scrap material like that anyway. It is interesting tho and I'm glad you brought you up!