Choosing the BEST SEALANT

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Canine said:
I have spray in foam insulation with composite studs. I use the composite studs for weight reduction and mitigating thermal breaks.

If I needed 2" of rigid foam board insulation, instead of using 2" sheets, I would use two 1" sheets and overlap the seams to stop the thermal breaks that are created when two sheets of insulation are butted together.

I will be installing AC as well. Here is what I will get. It will be a while because I need to take care of other things first.

https://americancomfort.com/acw-1000-btu-personal-air-cooler.asp

It seems common sense to me, but a unit like that is made for blowing cold air on you not for cooling down a room. A lot of people don't understand that running an AC unit unconnected to a vent will heat a room up. The heat needs to be vented in order for a room to cool down. I have little doubt this will cool down the overhead sleeping area in my camper. As to the rest of the camper? Meh, probably not, but of course I'm going to try. This isn't DC, but a DC unit is crazy expensive. I'll take the small energy loss using an inverter. Another benefit of an AC unit is I'm not required to mount the AC almost on top of the battery bank or use huge wiring to get some distance; I can plug in an extension cord and move it around.

I've looked and looked, but can't find a page I was looking at that discussed insulating the inside of metal pipes and square tubing. Long story short, insulating the inside of tubing does almost nothing. Eliminating the convective heat transfer inside a hollow pipe by filling it with spray foam insulation is a pittance compared to the conductive heat transfer of the metal wall. While you didn't bring this up, I thought it may be of interest.

That's a really cool AC unit, haven't seen that one before!  I wish I knew what 1000 BTU actually feels like in person, even though from a numbers stand point it probably won't be enough to stabalize the temperature unless you have amazing insulation.  Seems like a great little unit though.  It obviously uses less power too, but it dosn't look like you are acheiving better efficiency overall compared to the U-go if you take into account BTU.  And you are correct about having to use the inverter bringing down the efficiency like another 10% or whatever it is.  The ACW unit is also a lot less expensive if you are trying to keep within a budget.  I will probably stick with U-go for now, but let us know how it goes if you decide on the ACW.

That's also a really great idea about using 2 layers of overlapping panels to plug the gaps.  Most likely, I won't even know exactly how much space I will have in terms of depth between the support beams until I start actually insulating.  I'm guessing it will be about an inch.  

I've seen some other videos about people using studs, but my only concern was that it would increase the thickness too much.  I've also heard some things about the spray foam insulation, like it's not mold resistent (although I'm sure they add something to resist mold), and that it dosen't hold up to vibrations over time very well.  

Also, yes you are correct about not being able to get around the thermal conductivity of a metal tube -- I just wanted something in there instead of just keeping it hollow because you can at least absorb noise in terms of vibration and do something to resist rust or mold -- this is why I would like to spray in Flex Seal as a first step before using silcone sealant.  Plus, I'm going to stuff in pieces of insulation, whether I use aerogel or foam, because you only need thin strips and I will probably end up with scrap material like that anyway.  It is interesting tho and I'm glad you brought you up!
 
GotSmart said:
I asked about reading because you seem to be ignoring some crucial details. 

You can run a wire to a battery, but you can not force it to absorb power at a rate is is unable to take.  You can also not deplete a battery to 15%. The one you linked to has this in the specs.  [font=Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]3,000 Cycle at 80% DOD      [/font]

Do not fully discharge flooded batteries (80% or more). This will damage (or kill) the battery.

Research the battery information on this forum from Sternwake.  

Also, there is no such thing as stealth camping.  In this day and age of electronics, you are seen.  

Now as to solar.  Flex panels are not a product I would trust.  My company pulled out of that market because they do not hold up to the stress of the 130 MPH + wind forces from driving. 

$15,000 just for set up without the cost of the van.  Or anything to make it habitable.  :s

What kind of van?

Oh Obiwan - the force is strong with you!  And very helpful for me to try and find the holes in my solution!  

To answer your questions -- The maximum charge rate for the Balqon battery is listed at 4500 watts (375ah), so I should be able to charge the solar panels and and run the alternator at full power in parallel -- another major benefit of lithium batteries, but you are right this is common problem for lead batteries.  For example, this is important if you are connected shore power.  Also, yes you are correct about the 80% DOD -- the 85% DOD i mentioned is too much -- so instead, this gives me access to 600ah for a fully charged battery. 

In terms of stealth, you will need to tell me more about what you mean by being seen in this day and age of electronics (i.e., examples).  Stealth is very important to me, because to me stealth is synonymous with security, and without security, you are not safe.  Stealth was the #1 highest priority in my design.  If there are no protrusions or basically anything that is not stock on the exterior of the van, you can be called out, and it only takes one person -- and it's usually an old grandma in a rural area calling the cops because she sees some weird-looking "good for nothing ol sonny boy" parked outside even though they are doing nothing wrong, and the police have an obligation to respond.  My plan is to only park next to other commercial vehicles at night and preferably not in a rural area.  Now, I respect police, I think almost all police are very respectable members of our society, and police are rarely just "out to get you" with the exception of some young rookie cop out there on a power trip and you know who I'm talking about :)  I actually love the police and respect the tough and necessary job they have to protect us, but it "only takes one" as I always say.  Now, if I am ever called out by the police and asked questions, I fully intend on revealing my "great secret" and let him know i am either living in my van or using the van as a camper and just being honest.  To me, that is a lot better than trying to say you are working but then they realize you have a bed back there and cabinets and a dog, haha, that would look a lot more suspicious to me.   I did not choose the upgraded stereo or get navigation because even that can look like an aftermarket part and look suspicious, and it is suspicious to police because they think that people who drive commercial vehicles don't always have the budget to upgrade anything unless you're a drug trafficker.  Police have been put on notice for suspicious looking or anything out of place on commercial vehicles for this very reason.  I won't even upgrade the rims or get the "exterior upgrade package" because of that.  The only other thing i can think of giving you away is noise leakage, so sound insulation is a pretty big concern for me.  Thermal first, noise second in terms of priority for insulation.  I also plan on using headphones (no speakers) for music and not wrestling my crazy little dog too much like I do at home to keep the noise level down.  You also don't want any light escaping (e.g., no windows) and I plan on covering up the little holes on the partition behind the front seats, as well as on the edges of the partition.  Are you referring to like stingray technology or something like that in terms of electronics?  

Anyways, i'll try to get off that subject, but stealth is very important to me because my safety depends on it.  For the flex panels, you bring up a great point I didn't think about too much yet.  I would like to use the flex panels because they are the most efficient and increase stealth at the same time -- win win woohoo!   The flex panels can come with an adhsive backing that you just peel and stick, but maybe I should consider the version with eyelets and use my own hard-drying adhesive -- something permenant like epoxy or something.  I would also use a plastic or metal panel as a layer between the roof and the panels because there's ridges on the roof that would create gaps, and then use that panel to attach directly to the roof, probably with screws.  I would also seal the edges especially at the front to discourage wind from blowing off the solar panel while driving.   I'm thinking I will have to find a very strong adhesive (like the strongest -- guess i could create another thread for that lolol) based on your experience.  

It will be more than $15K total in the end not including the van itself, and just for parts.  I'm not saying that's not a lot, but it is what I'm willing to budget, i mean i'm employed full time is what i'm saying and i'm not doing this to save money, but i'm doing this to improve the quality of my life.  Sometimes I think this website should be renamed to amazing.  The van is a 2016 ford transit, white cargo, no windows, low roof, short WB. I would also like to get any work done professionally that I can like installing the alternator or something like that.. I mean I will need all the help I can get.  I contacted a professional RV builder also with my plans but he stopped responding to me because i think my plans were too complex lololol~~ i guess somethings you just have to do yourself :)  Another thing to consider is that some people buy new RVs that are $100K, so we are still talking about half price total for a van build like this.

Man I promise to keep my posts short from now on!
 
Canine said:
I will be installing AC as well. Here is what I will get. It will be a while because I need to take care of other things first.

https://americancomfort.com/acw-1000-btu-personal-air-cooler.asp

It seems common sense to me, but a unit like that is made for blowing cold air on you not for cooling down a room. A lot of people don't understand that running an AC unit unconnected to a vent will heat a room up. The heat needs to be vented in order for a room to cool down. I have little doubt this will cool down the overhead sleeping area in my camper. As to the rest of the camper? Meh, probably not, but of course I'm going to try

I don't know if you saw that unit on Amazon, but worth reading the reviews and Q&A: http://www.amazon.com/American-Comf...p/B003RFS50M/ref=cm_cr_pr_product_top?ie=UTF8

I hear what you're saying about people not venting, but there's a couple reviews there that did rig up exhaust to little effect. Hard to say. I do feel a bit circumspect about a company that advertises an AC with "Needs No Vent!" as part of their selling points, and charges 20% restocking fee on returns...
 
The fan that comes with that little AC unit is minimal. It takes just a small length of pipe to create enough back pressure to overcome the fan. Then even if the vent pipe is super short and the wind is not in your favor, the fan has no chance of working. Many people probably would turn the Fantastic fan on to pull air in while the AC is running. A ton of people use AC incorrectly, so I pay no mind to those reviews.

The 20% restocking fee helps keep people from trying it, then finding out it doesn't "work" because they didn't use it right, used it incorrectly, or modified it in a way that prevents it from operating properly. People won't listen unless you hit them in the pocketbooks. Maybe that isn't fair, but it mitigates the financial losses the business incurs from peoples' improper use of their product.
 
Canine said:
The fan that comes with that little AC unit is minimal. It takes just a small length of pipe to create enough back pressure to overcome the fan. Then even if the vent pipe is super short and the wind is not in your favor, the fan has no chance of working. Many people probably would turn the Fantastic fan on to pull air in while the AC is running. A ton of people use AC incorrectly, so I pay no mind to those reviews.

The 20% restocking fee helps keep people from trying it, then finding out it doesn't "work" because they didn't use it right, used it incorrectly, or modified it in a way that prevents it from operating properly. People won't listen unless you hit them in the pocketbooks. Maybe that isn't fair, but it mitigates the financial losses the business incurs from peoples' improper use of their product.

I hope you post a review once you get it, I'd certainly be very happy to hear it works as desired...
 
BradKW said:
I hope you post a review once you get it, I'd certainly be very happy to hear it works as desired...

Definitely. It's on the bottom of the list of things to get- eventually...
 
Get some Dow Corning 795 silicone caulk. It comes in a few different colors. It is used as a structural sealant for glazing on high rise buildings. There is also a 1200 primer to help it stick better, but it shouldn't have any problems sticking to most smooth surfaces. Polyeurathane caulking usually has some kind of solvent in them that could be a problem for the spaceloft. I have been a waterproofing contractor for since 1996.
 
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