I think the only 12 volt device I have seen with a 100 amp breaker is a wheel chair lift on a school bus. I wondered when I saw the picture of your electric panel why all the heavy cable, now I know. You can probably do your own welding with that much power!
Chicken Fried Steak
- Thread starter HalfShadows
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1/2, the other way to look at it is 12V * 8Amps = about 100W, is like cooking on a light bulb. I'm surprised 1700W didn't trip a breaker. Do you know what fusing/breakers are in your system? What the max current draw from those Lithium batteries is? You need to know.
HalfShadows
Well-known member
1700W/110V = 15.45 Amps. more or less. But for some reason I think there is something being left out of the equation when operating certain appliances, can't remember what is is. Anyway I have a 2500W inverter on a 15amp circuit breaker circuit. I will operate it again and check for amp draw. You can adjust the burner down to 300 watts if you want. Just takes a lil longer to cook.QinReno said:
Unless you have some alternate source of AC power, the 1700W is ultimately coming out of your 12V batteries, so 142 Amp through that wiring and out of the Lithium cells. As John indicated, that's comparable to cranking a starter motor. Big juice. Think of a fire hose rather than a garden hose.
The 15A breaker in the inverter must be on the "output", ie 120 VAC side. So check what breakers they put in the 12V side. Also find out the AWG wiring gauge.
You might contact the guys who did the installation, tell them what you powering, frig, stove, etc, and get their comments.
The 15A breaker in the inverter must be on the "output", ie 120 VAC side. So check what breakers they put in the 12V side. Also find out the AWG wiring gauge.
You might contact the guys who did the installation, tell them what you powering, frig, stove, etc, and get their comments.
"1700W" as an appliance setting has nothing to do with actual amps drawn.
The latter must be actually measured, if varies over time with an AH counter.
And not just for system component sizing / design, but for safety it is critical to put CP in place sized below the max rating for the wiring.
If higher-draw appliances are desired, the wiring+CP must be installed to handle it.
The latter must be actually measured, if varies over time with an AH counter.
And not just for system component sizing / design, but for safety it is critical to put CP in place sized below the max rating for the wiring.
If higher-draw appliances are desired, the wiring+CP must be installed to handle it.
HalfShadows
Well-known member
Each battery has it's own 100 amp breaker. The wire being used is standard Household Romex. I will have to check the Romex for particular gauge.
HalfShadows
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The wire connecting the batteries to the CB's is 0 gauge. All the exact same length.
HalfShadows
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It's ok Liv. Your fineLivGolden said:
HalfShadows
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I think my system will allow me to make chicken fried steak just fine. Not as good as the Cafe Texan though. I have been assured.
HalfShadows
Well-known member
Hitting the road on Wednesday AM. Sure 1/2, that is what you always say :huh: I think I am going to take HWY 2 to Leavenworth only 3 hour drive, and dine on some German food. MMM! Schnitzel, European Chicken Fried Steak. I know it is a touristy alpine village, but what the hey.
Just to help out, all wire has "resistance" to current flow and will heat up, and actually burn up (blow like a fuse), if you run too much current through it. A fuse is just a "thin" wire that gets hot and melts.LivGolden said:
From the table about halfway down this page, you can see that 0-gauge wire like in SB can handle 125-150 Amps before it gets overly hot. You will notice that 90C = 194F, so that's pretty darn hot. Would burn you hand.
- https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/American_wire_gauge
HalfShadows
Well-known member
Born and raised in Texas. I know Texas Food.
