Cargo Van with high top or Step Van?

[Belchfire]

For Long term living which is best?

An extended Cargo Van or a Step van ?

The Cargo Van is better for residential stealth living which appeals to me
But I don't know if I could fit the things I want in it shower extra space to sit and play music, stove, large fridge freezer, sawdust potty.
I also need room to store tools and canned goods, dry good like grains,
and a place to put my bike enough horsepower to pull a minivan



So it's size vs stealth or is there a way to have what I want in an extended cargo van?

 

[MikeRuth]

There are others here with real world experience but, I have learned from all the information here that you can't have both LOL. It's either be stealth in a van or your gonna have something bigger that is just either plain RV or as you mention a Step Van. That of course is not stealth. But hey it can be plain Jane and depending on where your gonna hang out might be just fine.

I just added a Roof van to mine, and lost a little stealth by doing that. It's no longer just a plain van!

Mike R

 

[cdiggy]

I could never fit all my stuff into a cargo van. Even my step van is on the small side for me. Of course I have extra stuff normal people would not have like a floor monitor, 3 guitars and guitar rig and back up guitar rig plus assorted gigging gear and then my tools, backpacking gear and a folding kayak!

 

[Almost There]

I'd say yes but then the only way to really figure it out is to get some measurements and do up some plans.

I have a regular cargo van with the hightop and about the only thing that won't go in mine that you list is the shower. I'll use an outdoor solar shower when the weather permits. I don't want a shower that I have to clean and I'm not putting in holding tanks to accommodate it. I'll use showers at campgrounds etc when available and make do when they're not. If you're living in a city and doing stealth then there's always a gym handy.

What I'm doing to give me all that space is:

-swivel base on the passenger seat so it turns into my recliner. I'll add a small footstool, actually I'll end up covering a bucket with upholstery material and a foam top to use.
-laying the floor over the side door stepwell across most of the rear 40% door so I can put the composting toilet in front of the rear wheel well. The 60% door is plenty of room for me to get in the side doors of the van.
-building the bed high enough that I can get the top load freezer and fridge units under the bed on pull out trays.

The previous owner did something I'd never seen before but I'm now impressed. He left the rear of the original roof in place up to the first rear rib. I now have a storage spot up there that is several inches deeper than the front cavity. Normally only the original roof over the drivers compartment is left to provide the structural integrity of the rib for roll over safety. It won't get in the way of standing up because the bed will be back there. I've measured and as long as I can sit up in bed, it's all good.

A twin size bed (so standard sheets fit it) will go all the way to the back of the regular van. An extended body van will give you enough extra back there for the bike as long as it will fit crosswise. You may only be able to put a partial divider wall up to accommodate the handlebar width.

Oh, saw the bit about pulling a mini van with it...not sure either a cargo van or a stepvan will have enough power to do that really comfortably.

It's my understanding that stepvans weren't really geared for on the highway, so that's another consideration. The cargo van will likely get you better gas mileage so depending on your travel needs you might want to think about that as well.

 

[Belchfire]

Hi Almost There

Can I see some pics of your Van?

Thanks

 

[Almost There]

Hi Almost There

Can I see some pics of your Van?

Thanks

I would if I could but I haven't figured out the pic posting stuff around here!

It's a 2002 GMC 2500 with the 24" high top on it.

At this point it's all in the paper and tape measure stage. I brought it home late September and then it took 2 weeks for certification because it was moose hunting season here... By that time it was too darn cold and wet to be out there doing anything much.

This is probably my 6 or 7th van (I've lost track) that I've done an interior in and ran with custom vans for 30 years so I've had some practice at this stuff. I'm one of those old vanners from the 70's...

It will be spring before I can actually do any work on it. It's already got an appointment booked for real early in April for the bodywork. Then I can get started on the interior.

My job this winter is to accumulate the massive savings account that is going to get thrown at it this spring.

 

[Belchfire]

Hi Almost There

You can always send pics to my email if you want to PM me


What kind of composting toilet do you have?

How much did you pay?

Does it use a lot of power?

Is it removable?

Thanks

 

[LucyImHome]

I think a step van can be stealth in an industrial or commercial area.
For long term living comfort, your choice might depend on where you're going to be most of the time. If weather allows you to be outside a lot, you could do with smaller quarters.
It occurs to me that a large fridge/freezer will use a fair bit of power. If you want to be stealth, you'll have to do the solar panels in a way they won't be noticeable. Also, the propane bottle.
If you'll be staying in one area, you could rent a storage unit with electricity. When I was in Palm Springs, quite a few vandwellers did that.
Toilet can be as simple as a 5 gal bucket with a toilet seat attached. Plastic bag and kitty litter or sawdust.

 

[Belchfire]

I'm likely to spend half my time in Alaska during the spring summer and early fall and half my time down in california in an urban setting

---

I'm likely to spend half my time in Alaska during the spring summer and early fall and half my time down in california in an urban setting


I do spend a lot of time inside resting usually only go out for some exercise or store or garden
That's why I was thinking of a sprinter or step van originally
I don't know if a cargo would be enough for an "inside" person

 

[LeeRevell]

Minivans are heavy - so no towing unless you have a really stout van or stepvan! And there goes your mileage..... And flat towing may be a no-no depending on the tranny so factor in the weight of a tow dolly for a FWD minivan. Go with a very small car, or a motorcycle on a small 4X8 trailer, for a runabout.

 

[66788]

There are others here with real world experience but, I have learned from all the information here that you can't have both LOL.

Mike R

I have both!

 

[karl]

Best for me is a step van;

I prefer a simple machine and adding whatever comforts and toys suit me. This gives me an intimate knowledge of how things are assembled and how they operate.
My trade off of fuel mileage with my gas powered step van vs the fickle electronic system in my friends Sprinter is fine with me. The difference in the cost of parts is decidedly in my favor.
My step has more cargo area than the sprinter and is at least a foot shorter.
Driving comfort of the Sprinter is far superior

Step vans are pretty much a box- easier to insulate and finish with little or no fancy cutting
They have a great view of the road- It can be satisfying to look truck drivers in the eye, even more more entertaining to see what goes on in cars sometimes
Built to take a beating

on the downside- steps are noisy, though some of that can be fixed.
the side doors leak air
all that glass gains or looses heat depending on the temp and time of day.
rear roll up doors are best avoided or replaced with a hatch, wall, camper door etc.
gearing may be low for power rather than speed- especially in older models( final drive/rear end gearing can be changed by experienced mechanic)
Those running 16" rather than 19.5" are more often highway gearing( I've heard-not sure)
some have sliding window in the doors- only half can open- not so convenient

 

[Canine]

Step van parts are harder to come by compared to the cargo van. Some parts, anyway. If you need rear end work, that will be difficult. I think the brakes are somewhat proprietary, too. The engines vary. If you get a gas, it will be a large V8 and you won't go much faster than 55. If you get the 4 cylinder Cummins, that would be great as that is a superb engine with lots of parts available and you can run a diesel quite hard and it will last a long time. Gets better mileage, too.

Driving a step van compared to a cargo van is the pits! Depends how much you plan on driving.

I believe small custom toolboxes mounted underneath a cargo/passenger van are available. They aren't much, but that would help with tool storage.

 

[cdiggy]

Step van parts are harder to come by compared to the cargo van. Some parts, anyway. If you need rear end work, that will be difficult. I think the brakes are somewhat proprietary, too. The engines vary. If you get a gas, it will be a large V8 and you won't go much faster than 55.

I must respectfully disagree with this. I have a Chevy p30 step with a Grumman Olson body and parts are readily available right down to the body parts. And Chevys are famous for having interchangeable parts so if you want to change the rear gear ratio it is very doable. And mine is powered by the mighty Chevy 350 which is highly changeable (including carb to fuel injection) even the wiring harness from a truck twenty years newer will plug right in to my truck. And that 350 I have reaches speeds in excess of 65 mph. Of course that is with a 3 speed auto which can be swapped out to a 4 speed auto. Steps do have their draw backs. They can be a pain to drive sometimes and are not very stealth so they do attract attention and you cannot hide in plain sight.

https://www.millsupply.com/index.php

This link is my go to for anything step van. I don't want to step on any toes but I did want to clear this up.

Peace

 

[Almost There]

Hi Almost There
What kind of composting toilet do you have?

How much did you pay?

Does it use a lot of power?

Is it removable?

Thanks

I'm going with this composting toilet - it's about 1/2 the price of the other ones I've seen and I like the design of it a whole lot better - particularly the use of gallon jugs for the urine collection. A whole lot better than proprietary ones that are $$$ to buy.

http://www.c-head.com/

If you're asking about power consumption on the composting toilets you really haven't explored the nature of marine composting toilets.......NO power usage at all. But then the full fledged composting toilet at the cottage doesn't use any power either.

Technically they're not full composting toilets because you move the contents of the 'compost' bin long before it's totally composted. Depending on where you're living and how you're living, you either put it someplace to finish composting or you dispose of it.

Here's the other 'composting' toilet that is also a favorite with marine and RV clients.

http://www.natureshead.net/

I wanted one of these badly but was balking at the price and then I stumbled on the C-Head...that I can gut my wallet for!!

Having used porta potties for years, I was loath to go back to them again but didn't care to lay out a grand. The wallet has only so much stretch to it and I have a whole bunch of things to buy.

Since I live in Canada, most all of my purchases, including the C-head have to wait for spring and a 'shopping' vacation. I'll build the compartment all ready for it and it will just be dropped in place.

 

[karl]

What cdiggy said....

I'm running 4bbl 350 with a 700R4 overdrive auto trans and 4:11 rear dually normally cruising 65+ @ 2400 rpm. Thirsty weighs in around 9400#- real close to her 10000# gvw
Gearing is important, generalizations- not so much

Admittedly there are step vans that are tricky/ less enjoyable to drive- knowing what (not) to buy is important...like any vehicle.

I have yet to find any running gear parts unavailable for GM versions from '72-'95.
Brake drums, discs, pads, suspension parts may require use of a tape measure as different sizes are used in the same series and gvw ratings- similar to other commercial trucks.

body parts are available at salvage yards and at least a couple online places- Mill Run being my favorite as well

 

[cdiggy]

What cdiggy said....

I'm running 4bbl 350 with a 700R4 overdrive auto trans and 4:11 rear dually normally cruising 65+ @ 2400 rpm. Thirsty weighs in around 9400#- real close to her 10000# gvw
Gearing is important, generalizations- not so much

Admittedly there are step vans that are tricky/ less enjoyable to drive- knowing what (not) to buy is important...like any vehicle.

I have yet to find any running gear parts unavailable for GM versions from '72-'95.
Brake drums, discs, pads, suspension parts may require use of a tape measure as different sizes are used in the same series and gvw ratings- similar to other commercial trucks.

body parts are available at salvage yards and at least a couple online places- Mill Run being my favorite as well

'Thirsty'.... That is too funny! Since mine is only a t400 3 speed I might have to call mine 'Glutten' lol

 

[Belchfire]

So i am getting a little confused

I have spoke to two gentleman that towed heavy vehicles with a step van

Can I tow with a step van or not?

If I do tow it will be cross country and maybe little jumps around town

Thanks

 

[Canine]

cdiggy, good input. I don't have a ton of experience with step vans, so I should have been a more careful providing general info like I did. My personal experiences are too narrow to provide general statements. Definitely agree that Chevy parts are greatly available compared to any of the other makes.

 

[cdiggy]

So i am getting a little confused

I have spoke to two gentleman that towed heavy vehicles with a step van

Can I tow with a step van or not?

If I do tow it will be cross country and maybe little jumps around town

Thanks

I have never towed anything with mine but I am sure it could do it. That being said mine is not really suited for towing for a couple reasons. One is mine is not fuel injected (1983) so mountains really suck unless I rejet my carb for it. It starts to lose power at about 8000 ft above sea level. It also carries a lot of weight from my tools and such. That being said if it was fuel injected it could do it. If it was diesel it would be even better because diesels just have more low end torque and are better suited for towing.