Cargo Trailer Safety

[RoadtripsAndCampfires]

I hope Bob picks this one up as a topic for his videos.

I am going to talk about safety issues with the cargo trailers.

1.  Adequate Build.

I actually saw a video where someone bought a cheap trailer meant for lightweight hauling and built a modest tiny home.  Please be aware of the weight allowed on the tongue of a particular trailer - there are vast differences in quality and ability to haul and hold weight.  If the tonge is rated for 200 pounds and you put 400 pounds on it because you want your fancy beautiful wood sink cupboards holding your heavy pots and canned goods right there on that nose.  As well, check the load capacity of the trailer and compare it to what you want to put into it and don't forget to count the building materials.  Wood is heavy.

2.  Insulation - DO NOT USE SPRAY FOAM

There are class action lawsuits throughout the US and Canada due to people being forced out of their homes for health reasons following spray insulation.  Please look into this.  Two years ago I saw a couple devasted by the memory loss the husband was suffering as a result of this.

Also, Dow Corning has a video that shows proper installation of batting.  This one is interesting no matter what you use,t he fiberglass, board or blue jeans even though this is an inuslation of fiberglass video.  At the end though using a heat gun you see how little gaps, etc. GRATELY AFFECT the ability to insulate.  This is a job we only do once (unless you used the foam in which case you have a lot of removal ahead ofyou).

3.  Propane Inside

Black cargo trailers with V-noses and propane stored inside are not a safe way to RV.  Closed up on a hot day I hope you don't camp next to me.

In addition, I've seen "stealth cargo trailers" being built which do the same thing - only ventilation is from the roof - no windows or air flow.

I wonder if it wouldn't be better to get a regular cargo front vs. a v-nose and camoflage the tank holder?  Make it look like a tool box holder?  Maybe could design a connection camoflauged by a light that hinges up to reveal the connection to the inside and simply connect when you are going to use the propane boondocking and use a single cannister inside if it's the only way to heat.  Not sure, just bringing up this to see what you all think.

Also  I heard LP tanks are only safe for 10 years and then should be replaced so maybe check your tanks.

 

[John61CT]

The spray foam issues are perfectly valid to be careful about, but certainly not so much to avoid them completely.

Some people are hypersensitive it is true, and just like all allergies, the reaction can build up over time.

The real problems for others come from incomplete curing.

You have to strictly follow the directions, make sure the two-parts are actually mixing properly, not try to do too much thickness at a time, and especially regarding temperature ranges.

As you say, complete sealing of the envelope is critical, R-value means nothing if you leave gaps, incomplete vapor barrier or thermal bridging.

The "green" solutions are often absorbant of moisture or host vermin over time.

If I were very concerned personally I'd check out mineral wool (rock wool) or Thinsulate.

 

[John61CT]

DOT portable tanks need periodic inspection and a new datestamp on the collar.

Well treated the bottles themselves can last many decades, it's the valves & fittings that wear out, especially if you start with generic cheap ones.

Frequent inspections, leak testing and detectors are critical.

Rubber hoses should be used as little as possible and replaced often, IMO annually.

 

[RoadtripsAndCampfires]

Yes, the propane hoses. They are often in the sun.

As for the Foam, one documentary I just watched the roof was removed from the house that had been sprayed by a famous expert who regularly foamed houses and was often televised. Experts can mess up - he sprayed too thick and it MUST cure between thin sprays. The chemicals that were measured on one show from what was in the air is enough to say no, the surgeon general needs to issue a warning.

Here's something I discovered today - if you are considering putting in a refrigerator read the operating manual first to find out where you can't put it. Who knew the awning of an RV can be a problem and also to watch out for the door causing blockage. Good stuff to know BEFORE finalizing the layouy.

 

[jacks18614]

I would be more concerned with a single axle cargo trailer weighing two tons without trailer brakes following behind me traveling down an 18% grade.

 

[RoadtripsAndCampfires]

I would be more concerned with a single axle cargo trailer weighing two tons without trailer brakes following behind me traveling down an 18% grade.

Yeah, we are looking at the tandum axle for our own personal safety.

 

[John61CT]

Good brakes, ideally disc?, careful weight management, good tires, slow speeds.

 

[kaBLOOnie Boonster]

Thanks to the commenter above: It never hurts to get a reminder about putting brakes on your cargo trailer, even if you aren't legally required to. (My single axle brake installation cost about $600.)

The following pertains to a rather standard 6 X 12 single axle cargo trailer:  One of my (new) leaf springs broke after two years, despite the trailer's measured LOADED axle weight being 80% of the nominal rating of the leaf springs. Yes, I spend a good deal of time on washboarded dirt/gravel roads. Fortunately, the breakage occurred when I was traveling at walking speed!

Since then I have gone to stiffer springs: from 3000 pounds originally to 4000 pounds total, compared to the MEASURED LOADED axle weight of 2300 pounds. (I think the industry-standard practice is to supply a pair of springs rated for 3000 pounds total for a 6 X 12 single axle trailer with a GVWR of 3000 pounds.)

The good news is that springs are inexpensive. [size=xx-small](See eTrailer.com for examples.)[/size]

 

[RoadtripsAndCampfires]

Good brakes, ideally disc?, careful weight management, good tires, slow speeds.

Yeah, we also have the Silverado tow package.  Problem is we have 4x4 to make sure we get out of the mud, etc. but that takes away what we can tow.  You have no idea how exact the weight will be, it's sort of become an obsession.  I know my Camp Chef oven weighs 38 pounds, my generator 50, stuff like that.  As I do the layout for the cargo trailer I'm keeping track of what goes over each axel, the nose vs tail, etc.    We like to travel a lot in the mountains going on 50 years of doing so.  This will be the longest (40' with truck and trailer) ever.  Some places we will have to disconnect but think the 4x4 is worth that.  Using a cargo trailer and doing the build ourselves will let me bring more of our stuff and not what the trailer dealer decides I need in the way of furniture and such.  I already have an oven, paid for and I can take it outside on a hot day.  I like that. That kind of stuff.  I can make the storage fit my things instead of my things fit the storage, although some of those trailers have enough storage so it doesn't matter.  We're trying to go small but still take 2 bikes.

 

[John61CT]

"Small" sure is subjective.

 

[BigRockSpeaker]

Thanks Road trips for starting this thread. As I begin my own VeeNose build (see the related threads), I am constantly worrying about all those things you mentioned. That's one of the reasons I decided to keep the build more simple, and not put in a lot of the things I've seen in other builds and said "ooh, that would be cool," like propane heating and refrigeration, water tanks and pumps, shower enclosures and plumbed toilets, or even an installed cooktop. Because of cost, weight and safety (not necessarily in that order), I keep reminding myself that this build is intended to get me closer to nature, not cooped up inside. You can build a stick and brick for that.

 

[LoupGarou]

Remove or replace any type of outside latch that allows someone to lock you inside.

 

[Every Road Leads Home]

2.  Insulation - DO NOT USE SPRAY FOAM

There are class action lawsuits throughout the US and Canada due to people being forced out of their homes for health reasons following spray insulation.  Please look into this.  Two years ago I saw a couple devasted by the memory loss the husband was suffering as a result of this.

     You have to realize for every person that has had a problem with spray foam, thousands of people are using it trouble free.  Use a reputable dealer with a reputable product and it's an excellent choice.  I'm sure there are some people out there who are sensitive to it but it's absolutely not a "if you use it you're going to be sorry" of a product.  My entire house is sprayed with foam and my heating costs in Maine prove it's an excellent choice.  
      I'd hardly consider class action lawsuits scientific.

 

[Every Road Leads Home]

Remove or replace any type of outside latch that allows someone to lock you inside.

I like outside latches as they are a much heavier duty option for locking up your rig when you're not there.  If you're inside it, you can lift the outside handle and lock the latching part with a padlock and then no one can lock you in from the outside.

 

[RoadtripsAndCampfires]

I know. But know that I have planned this for 50 years and together we have planned it for 30. So we bought things along the way, spread out over time we got to where we are.

I would have so many times loved to have hopped into my car or truck and just have taken off. Many on this board are there. But I did have a job, barely, barely squeaked by. Had medical, we at least have now made it through the phase of getting Medicare, that helps. I worked twenty years in pain to get a small pension. I used to use the jacuzzi in the morning and as soon as I got home. I still take frequent hot baths. My primary doctor was an Orthopedic physician. I would end up in his office in tears and get long needles in my back so I could keep working. I might one day even tell a #Me2 a story or two.

I survived the waiting period by camping every chance I got. You can go away for 2 days to the mountains, deserts, rivers, streams, stars and come back and be good for another week or so. I am still waiting but I'm in countdown mode now. Finally.

50 years to gather the few things I have? I'm still in debt - supported a family member through years of hardship. That has finally turned around. I'm getting there ....

 

[tx2sturgis]

I like outside latches as they are a much heavier duty option for locking up your rig when you're not there.  If you're inside it, you can lift the outside handle and lock the latching part with a padlock and then no one can lock you in from the outside.

Same here.

I attached a small D ring to the outside of the trailer and I use a small light duty white-coated chain and padlock to secure the bar-lock where it cannot be swiveled over the door and locked. Plus, this makes the bar-lock function as a 'grab handle' for easier entry and exit.

 

[RoadtripsAndCampfires]

Thanks to the commenter above: It never hurts to get a reminder about putting brakes on your cargo trailer, even if you aren't legally required to. (My single axle brake installation cost about $600.)

The following pertains to a rather standard 6 X 12 single axle cargo trailer:  One of my (new) leaf springs broke after two years, despite the trailer's measured LOADED axle weight being 80% of the nominal rating of the leaf springs. Yes, I spend a good deal of time on washboarded dirt/gravel roads. Fortunately, the breakage occurred when I was traveling at walking speed!

Since then I have gone to stiffer springs: from 3000 pounds originally to 4000 pounds total, compared to the MEASURED LOADED axle weight of 2300 pounds. (I think the industry-standard practice is to supply a pair of springs rated for 3000 pounds total for a 6 X 12 single axle trailer with a GVWR of 3000 pounds.)

The good news is that springs are inexpensive. [size=xx-small](See eTrailer.com for examples.)[/size]

I learned through this cargo trailer serarching that there is a large span of quality of build and ability to carry weight even between different cargo trailer models by the same manufacturer.  We are going to go with the better axles, breaks, roof warranty, etc.