My Future Modular Cargo Trailer Kitchen

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RoadtripsAndCampfires

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I thought I'd post a photo of what will one day be our kitchen.  Wayne assembled it this morning, we bought it at Ikea yesterday.  Pretty cool, eh?  They sell this frame and sink for around $115.  $140 for the faucet and drain.  I wanted a different faucet and will go back and get the drain thing.  He called it a strainer and I said I didn't need that.
 

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I kept the photo small so it is hard to read but I think you can make it all out.

This will go on the tongue side but a lot of it is removable for travel (like the stoves and grey water) to keep the tongue weight down.
 
remember tongue weight should be 10% of trailer weight. if not you will have problems with uncontrolled sway. highdesertranger
 
highdesertranger said:
remember tongue weight should be 10% of trailer weight.  if not you will have problems with uncontrolled sway.  highdesertranger

Exactly.  Which is why I went with this light weight unit instead of building a lot of wood cupboards and counters here.  And there are things that can be moved away from the tongue when traeling if necessary.  The kitchen frame and sink weight itotal s 40 lbs. with the faucet.

Sunnersta Kitchen:  S[font=Verdana, sans-serif]ize [/font][font=Verdana, sans-serif]44 1/8x22x54 3/4 "[/font]

[font=Verdana, sans-serif]The oven weighs 38 lbs and that can be placed lots of places if I need to move that weight around, I could even move it to the back of the pickup if  I had to.  The grey water tank will be emptied before moving and if that is not possible it can be capped and moved for travel.  [/font]

[font=Verdana, sans-serif]I'm doing this project weight specific, meaning I am going to make sure it complies and I am going to know enough about what weighs what to distribute all weight as well as I can.  I do not think we will use a wt. distribution but we will use sway control, the trailer comes with breaks and we have break controller already part of the truck.  We will be towing extremely light unless Chevy eventually tells me I can tow more than 3k which I don't think they will.  [/font]

[font=Verdana, sans-serif]Even though Chevy says "tows 13k-14k" the reality is that is a twisted lie based on deceptive terms.  [/font]

[font=Verdana, sans-serif]Next week should be interesting.  I am going to a tiny house gathering.  I wonder how many people are planning on towing 10k or more and wonder what they are going to tow it with.  Wood is heavy and they are building stair cases and bookshelves in these things.  They need a PeterBuilt I think.[/font]
 
Most tinyhomes are just on a trailer base to satisfy zoning regs, not actually designed for much mobility
 
jacqueg said:
Thanks for posting this, I sure like it better than what I've got!

I'm gong to get a designer shower curtain and make a skirt around the front.  I am having so much fun planning this.  We are headed to the container store now.  Wire shelves and plastic cupboards as long as they are secure will be quick and light.

I can't get the trailer until I put the Class B up for sale.  We've had snow and the next few days will have high winds so I know I don't want to give any test drives when there is  bad weather.  I can't fit both trailer and Class B here.
 
I will be posting photos I took soon of the layout in my living room and dining room. The oven is going to the truck and I'll most likely only use it outside. I have a 2-burner protane stove I'll cook inside with. This allowed a huge change that got me a bathroom!! I will figure out a shower as well. So, the video I took the 2 days before this change was no longer good. So instead I started taking photos. I am now weighing everything. I am also in the process of drawing the layout out. So I need another day or two and I'll be posting it on the blog because there will be a lot of photos and information so courtesy to cell phone users here.

I LOVE THIS LAYOUT!! And I think I will be well below my limits even with food and water.
 
It’s hard to tell from the pics, is it pretty strong/sturdy? Remember that the constant twisting and vibrations from driving is hard on things and you are looking at a pretty fair amount of weight on that unit.
 
RoadtripsAndCampfires said:
  Wire shelves and plastic cupboards as long as they are secure will be quick and light.

Being secure is key. I agree w/Bob in what the shelving is exposed to & this looks like it'll need multiple secure attachment points.
 
Mine will be made from wire shelves...on casters it can be rolled outside for under canopy use. Top shelf will be solid stainless steel instead of wire. Stove will have propane quick connect, pump will have Anderson connector for 12 volts.  (my trailer/toy hauler will have rear ramp door along with 5 full length adjustable tie down rails in the floor)
My oft delayed plans finally coming closer to fruition.

Rough illustration:

kitchen.jpg
 

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rm.w/aview said:
Being secure is key. I agree w/Bob in what the shelving is exposed to & this looks like it'll need multiple secure attachment points.

Yes.  We are buying a cargo trailer and will remove all the boards, caulk and fill any gaps because it is after all a cargo trailer, add insulation, seal the boards and reinstall after the floor is done.  Floor will be sealed on top (already sealed on bottom), insulated and topped.  All the fixtures will have secure attachments to the walls with small wood beams framing across walls wherever practicle.

We're doing steampunk so the pipes will be installed on the outer wall.  I'm still weighing and balancing the weight but still designing, too.  I think my closet will be a wire rack cut to size (I have metal cutting saws just can't weld but can drill and screw) turned into a blue phone booth.  Yeserday I scored on decorations.  Found a stainless steel non-electric coffee bean grainder that has a bottom canister that hinges closed and stores the coffee not yet used and keeps bear sniffs down.  Design looks great with the other stuff.  Cost Plus $20.    Anyway, the phone booth closet will have a wire rack at the top  which S hooks hang from.  The jackets will hang front to back instead of side to side like a normal closet.  This allows it to be a skinny but useful closet.  It will also be short as it will fit above the chest fridge which needs an opening space of I think 21".  I'm having fun with art.  Going back to the compression fridge after learning it can handle a 30 degree tilt without damage.

All the movable pieces will have a secure place built in.  I don't want to spend a lot of time nailing things down.  I have a giant purple plastic bin that will go in the back of the truck and when ready to move will just scoop all the utinsels, etc. on the sink and those hooks into the bin and then it'll ride in the trailer when I have figured out the weight is best and it'll have a built in securing point there.  This will be a toy hauler that doesn't look like it.  One day we'll get a couple of bikes to wheel up the ramp and they will ride in front of the couch that makes into a bed when I take the bikes outside under a tarp.  If we ever can't put them outside they do fold and we can put them in the back of the truck which will one day have a shell on it.  That's only for emergencies because they weigh 70 pounds each thus the ramp to the place to take with is awesome for most of the time.

I am also building this with my disabilities and Wayne's future old age and mine in mind.  Everything easy.
 
johnny b said:
Mine will be made from wire shelves...on casters it can be rolled outside for under canopy use. Top shelf will be solid stainless steel instead of wire. Stove will have propane quick connect, pump will have Anderson connector for 12 volts.  (my trailer/toy hauler will have rear ramp door along with 5 full length adjustable tie down rails in the floor)
My oft delayed plans finally coming closer to fruition.

Rough illustration:

This is a great idea.  Also check out HSN Oragami furniture.  I have two folding tables that are awesome and that's where I got my 2 metal folding racks.  I won't need to use the folding part and mine has wheels I could put on looks just about like yours.  But mine are stationary parts that will be built in with a wood cupboard around the one inside.  The outside one will be closed to the inside and accessible outside.  It'll hold the batteries, weight be damned.  Actually, I figured I'll have 250 to 280 in the tongue weight so I think that would work out perfect.  The other stuff is not too heavy and can easily be moved out of the way to use one half of the ramp whenever we need to.  The battery side will of course be permanent.
 
akrvbob said:
It’s hard to tell from the pics, is it pretty strong/sturdy? Remember that the constant twisting and vibrations from driving is hard on things and you are looking at a pretty fair amount of weight on that unit.

Yes, I don't want to have to repair things after a year of driving or pick up things when we get to the campground.  50 years of camping I've been through some rough weather and roads and the side to side over rocky or washed out roads is just there always along the side wall of the brain when one gets behind the wheel and away from the city.
 
Sounds like you folks are in full control in this well thought out plan, looking forward to seeing this & y'all in the future.
 
I just saved myself a small fortune. I've been looking at upholstery material for the loveseat turned couch/bed and the prices are running $35 - $49 a YARD. When we bought this couch set I bought fuzzy grey queen size blankets to cover them and keep them nice (But AmericanFurniture Wherehouse built the cushion seams to only last a year and a half). They are perfect and I have plenty of "material" to work wth. Makes up for the $150 I spent (at 50% off no less) on steampunk items yesterday. I now have enough to sprinkle throughout giving it a real steampunk theme. My steampunk "story" is slowly coming together.

There is a GREAT YouTube video we watched last night called "Steampunk: What the heck is it? by Futures Explored Film Working.
 
The first post of 2 showing the first set of layout photos from my dining room/living room invisible trailer. I am going to take a break and then do a second post as I didn't want to make that page any larger than it already is. That will be followed by photos showing the crazy inside theme. That will be followed by, wait for it ... pictures of the cargo trailer that will soon be in the driveway. Then the real work begins. We are going with the Interstate Load Runner 7x16 traditional nose. We do not want a tank of propane inside and we aren't trying to go stealth.

http://www.roadtripsandcampfires.com/2018/03/26/cargo-trailer-conversion-plan-photos-no-1/
 
johnny b said:
Mine will be made from wire shelves...on casters it can be rolled outside for under canopy use. Top shelf will be solid stainless steel instead of wire. Stove will have propane quick connect, pump will have Anderson connector for 12 volts.  (my trailer/toy hauler will have rear ramp door along with 5 full length adjustable tie down rails in the floor)
My oft delayed plans finally coming closer to fruition.

Rough illustration:

We changed from the barn doors to the ramp.  Sometimes I use a walker and it just makes more sense.  But the main reason is we want to bikes that weigh 70 pounds each and I'd rather roll them into the trailer than lift them onto a rack.

The photos are now up of the first plan.  I have them on 2 posts because there are so many photos so know it is a big file to download.
 
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